Yield increasing planting method

[budchopper]

kc33

kc33

Thanx phrank, good to see ya
Hi everyone.
Yes Hindu Killer, it is almost the same and Ive tried that. I discovered that the plants didn't adjust as well and the delay seen in growth while rooting occured was more pronounced.

Plants do get large this way, even smaller stature plants
I had a KC 33 plant, which gets very big and is vigoruous to start with, spread over 13 feet X 9'. I harvested over 4 lbs from it.

Ive used this practice so much I have a formula for yeild. Its simple. Each branch that is exposed will produce 50-70% of what the original plant would have produced. For example, if a plant normally produced 6 oz grown untopped or minimal topping, then each branchs sticking up from your rooted stem will produce around 4 oz. You can usually get at least 4 branches sticking up, so the total yeild from this plant would be 16 oz, where it would have originally yeilded 6. Its a better way to plant. No negative effects to the plant.

The original rootball of the plant keeps it growing until the entire stem roots. Once that happens you will know it as behavior of the branches becomes different - you cant miss it. I have never lost a plant doing this. Never. Ive never had one that didn't root, although the pace of rooting matches the cloning capacity of any given strain. Most strains clone easily, but ocassionally you run into strains that doesnt and that lack of acceptance is seen with this as well.

thanks for info on what sounds like another good kc strain i personally like kc
mango..my question is when planted sideways and you get higher yield ,do you think plants take longer to mature?

 

[PazVerdeRadical]

Call me chicken if you want

chicken!

btw, that book sounds good, gonna check it out, thanks mr. chicken

peace

 

[BlueberryNutz]

i wonder if this could be done indoors with a good size rubbermaid. i may have to give it a go i think, indoor or out

 

[Guest]

Yes it could BlueberryNutz, In fact, when I keep a mother plant, which is seldom, that is how I keep it simply because it provides so many more cutting locations. I have a 3 gallon tub that I use. Works great

Hey budchopper, I like KC brains work a lot. Hes one of the best breeders around in my view.. I wish he would spend more time with seed selection, his operation falls apart over that one issue. Its rare however, that I don't grow something from KC. His breeding skills are top notch. Mango is very good.

No, I don't believe it delays maturation and in fact just the opposite. I believe they may actually mature a few days earlier and if a clone is buried, that was taken from the current year seedlings and not from an over wintered mother, it will actually finish more than a week earlier than the plant that provided the clone. I don't know why any of that is happening, maybe someone who has knowledge about that will chime in. It could be a root binding effect that occurs. Often i will grow in a location in which the soil is poor and rocky. I will bury a 5 gallon bucket with holes punced in it and then plant.
These plants in buckets ALWAYS finish sooner. Just guessing, this may be a similar effect, but no way to know for sure


Hey Pazv. Cluck, cluck cluck. Every time i suggest taking the camera my wife, the smart alec, says, " why dont you just go ahead a keep a signed confession in your pocket too, that way the police can move right to the sentencing phase and forget the investigation."

Hurk and Superman, This works great on tomatoes and reduces the number of plants you have to buy. I always buy the plants that are stretched just for this reason.

 

[Mr Celsius]

The agricultural term is called "dry-farming". Anything in the nightshade family (potatos, tomatos, ect ect) have whats called advantageous roots (those hairy things on the stock) that will produce real roots if buried underground. Most mass potato and tomato operations use this technique so they don't have to irrigate.

Silverback, thanks for sharing this. All he is doing is making advantageous roots via rooting hormone. A thing that should be mentioned, it will help increase your plants drought tolerance, as it has more roots and will access more water.

 

[Guest]

I think your'e right about that Mr. C, but its hard to document; Ive used this method while installing hedge screens in landscapes. Its only drawback in that application is that if someday one of the plants gets a disease, you can loose a big piece of the hedge.

 

[Dignan]

I've no doubt this works, as I've said. It's been done for ages on veggies.

But I've always been curious why a plant would end up with a bigger root mass by doing this than by just laying down more roots. In other words, why does it matter if a plant sends out more roots from the stem rather than simply sending out more roots from the taproot itself, under the soil?

 

[Hindu Killer]

Another important point was made.....good loose soil! If the roots cant penetrate it the plant isnt going to grow as large. I found this out this past season...added extra vermiculite to my holes.....man they took right off...almost done better than some older plants. I'll be trying this as my goal is a large yield!

 

[Mr Celsius]

I've no doubt this works, as I've said. It's been done for ages on veggies.

But I've always been curious why a plant would end up with a bigger root mass by doing this than by just laying down more roots. In other words, why does it matter if a plant sends out more roots from the stem rather than simply sending out more roots from the taproot itself, under the soil?

You're essentially forcing it to have a larger root mass, so in turn it wants to produce more foliage to support that root mass. The plant doesn't have the capacity or programming to do it on its own, but when we top, crop, and manipulate the way the plant grows, we are able to increase its abilities.

 

[lilo]

I see no sence in this technique other then shooting for a smaller plants count. I'd say take cuttings, root, plant, enjoy bigger yields.
Pros: better light penetration because you can plant them further apart from each other; better ensurance against disease and possibly even mold; and you don't need to carry large and heavy pots if you grow in pots outdoors.

 

[Mr Celsius]

I see no sence in this technique other then shooting for a smaller plants count. I'd say take cuttings, root, plant, enjoy bigger yields.
Pros: better light penetration because you can plant them further apart from each other; better ensurance against disease and possibly even mold; and you don't need to carry large and heavy pots if you grow in pots outdoors.

If you feel that bending them to the side is taking up space that you would normally plant a plant in, then you are sort of correct. But which would you rather yield, 8 ounces from a a certain footprint or 16 ounces?

Also, you don't have to bend it. You can strip it down about half the plant, scrape the trunk, apply rooting hormone and bury it. Some technique that will increase yields, yet taking up the same foot print. See the advantages now?

 

[Binnacas]

Very interesting method. Thanks for posting this silverback!

I've never grown outdoors but I will try it this year. I'm going to try this method with one or two of the plants and see how it will differ from the other plants.

I was just thinking that can I do this without any rooting powder? If I just skin the side and plant it in to moist soil and keep it moist for a few days or something. I think the main rootball should provide everything needed for a succesful rooting. i'm just a noob so I'm probably wrong but please tell me if this is possible or not.

Also if I would end up with the plants being too close to each other, I would probably just bend them to the sides so that they're not too close anymore. Very easy I think.

I suppose this wouldn't be worth while indoors? Maybe in a hydro with a big enough res (don't know much about hydros though). But I think that if you have a strain that has small root mass naturally, that you could strip away a few inches of skin from the soil level up and plant it so that the stripped part is in the soil, it would add a little more root mass for the plant and thus leading to bigger yields. Am I right?

Should I just train the plant from the beginning in to a horizontal position so that the branches grow upwards from the main stem, making it much easier to plant it to the ground horizontaly?

How much more nutrients does the plants consume with this method?

peace

 

[Guest]

Hey everybody,

Hey loli, this doesnt hurt the plant at all so you don't have much too loose, so try it with one plant. Youll discover that your conclusions are in error. There is no waiting for the plant to get big enough to take clones from or waiting for them to root. Cloning can't compare in anyway to this method

Hey Binnacas, No- the rooting powder isn't at all necessary but i do think it speeds things up a bit.

Yes, bending and some early focused pruning will keep everything apart.

I don't grow a lot indoors but some. I use this for a mother if I keep one because it allows for more cutting sites. I believe it would work great indoors and achieve the same yielding tendencies. Using this method you could actually take one plant and make it produce the same amount of smoke as 4 or 5 plants. It would take up the entire tub, but think of the savings from not having to grow the rest of your seeds. It would also work well where the law restricts growers to one or two plants. This way, you can maximize one-plant yield.

My indoor grow space is 42"x72". I could fill that space easily with one plant using this method.

 

[Binnacas]

ok, well just in case I could try to get some root powder. What about indoor soil growing with this method? It would require a massive soilspace to support all that root. And with a too small soilspace it would risk becoming rootbound. Am I thinking in a wrong way here?

 

[lilo]

Hey Mr Celsius I still don't see how it would be better then planting a cutting. Please, explain. If I take a cutting and root it (I bet it roots faster and with less stress to the mother plant) get say 1 kilo of rootmass versus 1 kilo of rootmass your way. Are you saying your kilo of rootmass will yield more then mine on the clone?

 

[DR PONIX]

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Heres a plant ive been experimenting with, with the tie down method



If it were outdoor as the new mains get long enough they get bent and tyed in the ground and they form roots with no hormone for me...... when u use the tie down method it will double your yields if not more but bre prepared making such a big plant will require allot more water/food and your holes must be much bigger and not to mention the hours of staking the bitches up!

 

[Stoned Cold]

Very interesting thread!

I'll certainly have to try this out w my outdoors this year.

 

[Smurf]

Another good post silverback, I like the simple use a potato peeler.
You would know about soil layering then, (exactly what nor-cal spoke of) but you don't remove the apical of the plant,,,,,its very similar to your method,,, you start by planting diagonally or horizontally & bury the internode part of the stem & peg it down (tent peg), then expose the next section of stem (couple of inches) in an arch which will help to position the next internode below soil surface again, then another arch and so forth. For each arch you leave at least one branch growing but usually two branches facing opposite each other. There is no need to remove any branches, but because they're facing opposite each other & away from the main stem running horizontally to the ground you may want to stake them in an up right position. Or you can leave them to grow upwards naturally, which will give you plenty of growing room. The part of the stem that is pinned down under the soil has had a small diagonal incision made to promote rooting or you can remove a small portion of the outer skin of the stem. These cuts or removal of outer skin are done to the underside of all the buried stem & will speed up the development of roots. After several weeks you will end up with multiple plants that may be removed from the original mother plant or you can leave them to create a beast. Again in this case you could also use the potato peeler, with or without rooting hormone. You can layer as many times as you see fit. Finally cover with some mulch to help prevent the proposed rooting sites from drying out. There's a lot more work involved but its an interesting method of maximizing your yield. Hope this all makes sense.

 

[Binnacas]

Hi Smurf! very interesting post.

I'm very new to this method anyways and if I understood right (not so good at english) the way you proposed it, the method is amazing. Does that mean that the new shoots after they've grown, you can just do the same thing with them? Don't know if that's even worth the while but just thinking.

What's the pros and cons in your style compared to the one silverback originally posted?

 

[Smurf]

Binnacas, it all depends on your environment. If the soil is warm enough to start early then yes, you can keep layering until mid to late summer. I try to keep the tops of the branches at the same height. So lets say a couple of branches have taken off and are now 4 or more feet tall but the remainder of the branches are only 2 feet, you can either layer it again (depending on the time of year) or you can just pull it down to the same height as the rest of the plant.

This pic is over 10 yrs old, (its crap quality) but you get a rough idea of what is achievable. This is an excellent technique if you have close neighbors, low fences, considering a gorilla grow, or just want the max you can get from a plant. Plus a plant like this is far more sturdy in strong winds, until the colas start to swell. hehe

I only got 3 1/2 lbs from 2 plants here, no feeding anything only water. I dumped 1/2 ton of mushroom compost in this spot, leveled it out & then started growing. One can only imagine what the possibilities could have been if I'd done it properly. At its max height of 4 feet tall I still had to stake most of the colas.