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yellow leaves on 4th wk flowering.

johnDeere

New member
how much yellow leaves should I expect during this period?

currently, I have nice 3/4" sized buds but scared to loose them b/c of many fan leaves turning yellow.

I have them in soil, with vermiculite, moss, and mini lava rocks, feeding them up to 1000 ppm with pH of 6.1 under 1k hps.
 
G

Guest

A Ph of 6.1 ? Are you Hydro or soil? If in soil your. ph is to low, up it to around 6.7 to insure uptake of all the goodies.
 
G

Guest

Your plants also need a ton of nitrogen during the stretch of 12/12 and very little Phosphorous,this can cause excessive yellowing at the midpoint.
 

buzzy

Member
The American said:
Your plants also need a ton of nitrogen during the stretch of 12/12 and very little Phosphorous,this can cause excessive yellowing at the midpoint.

This is completely wrong, too much nitrogen can make a plant revert to vegetative growth and slows flower production. Plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) during flowering.

Don't give out poor advice american... :spank:
 
G

Guest

Buzzy,I've been pulling 5-6 lb harvests from my 8 by 8 flowerroom for years now,before you go with forum standards such as P in flower understand what flowering is.During the first 3 to 4 weeks of 12/12 the plant is still in the veg stage,changing photocycles doesnt mean changing nutes."Stretching" requires tons of nitrogen not phosphorous,you are producing foliage during this period not flowers.Preflowering is part of the veg stage and shouldn't be used as an indicator for more P.I'm not saying P isn't necessary through the stretch because it is along with K,I am saying N is much more important.
 
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Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Alot folks around here mix bloom and veg nutes for the first 2 weeks of flowering or so after cutting the lights back, during the stretch alot of N is used up but having a 1/2 dose of flowering nutes builds up flowering nutes before they start to get really hungry for P and K.
The point of this is if the plants runs out of N during the stretch it won't have enough to make through flowering, it's not all or nothing with the nutes it's timing them right and mixing them if you need to.

Suby
 
G

Guest

Its true I've tried a lot of different ways with different strains,I did half grow big and half tiger bloom for the first 3 weeks for the longest time.I've found recently sticking with grow big exclusively during this period gives me lusher greener plants when they start to bloom.I'm sure everyone will experience different results with all the different phenos but I suggest trying N for the first 3 weeks believe me it wont delay or hinder squat.EDIT I should add if you use co2 enrichment like me google up the relationship and importance of nitrogen in conjunction with co2 enriched plants,good shit.
 
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buzzy said:
This is completely wrong, too much nitrogen can make a plant revert to vegetative growth and slows flower production. Plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) during flowering.

Don't give out poor advice american... :spank:
Nitrogen does not cause a plant to go back into a vegatative state, the number day light hours does. Hit them hard with N during the stretch (first 2 weeks of 12/12 like stated above.
Think out of the box people! If a plant is showing early signs of yellowing in flower then give them some N for christ sakes.
 

johnDeere

New member
ok guys...
like i said...
I've changed nothing but add a bloom nutrient (pk)..

meaning all nutes from veg and now + bloom. the only thing that may be different is I've increase ppm values gradually, currently up to 1000.

my quest really should have been, does flowering demand more N than anytime during any other period?

onto gradually increasing my ppm and correcting yellow leaves, I also see that I have some leaf tip burn which lit claims overfertilization...

so what should I think...now....

any suggestions......????
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
It`s the stretch at changeover that raped the soil of N, but after week 3 depending on your strian you should cut back on the N, the fan leaves will store enough N for the rest of flowering.
Yellowing doesn`t automatically mean your missing N, your soil ph may be off, your plants may be rootbound thus locking out nutes, they may be overwatered which also can make nutrient absorption a mess.
If leaf tips are burning then cut down the nutes, if you want to make sure you are helping the plants are not harming them topdress the soil with alot of worm castings, they are a low release form of N that does NOT burn and will help get micros to your flowering girls.
What type of nutes are you using?

Suby
 

buzzy

Member
I was just stating general experience tbh. I think we need pics to accurately say whats causing the yellowing anyhow...
 

johnDeere

New member
tough to show yellow cuz I have hps on.... but here goes


I hope u guys can see this but fan leaves on this image appears lighter than smaller leaves...I'll try to take pix later on when lights come on...




on this image, the plant's fan leaves also are lighter than others. set of leaves on right of plant are from first picture (ist pic plant). you can see that they seem really lighter compared to other leaves..
sorry for terrible illustrations but I'll try later with addtnl images to show what I mean....
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
From the pics I see purple shoots with yellowing leaves, she is either hungry or has nutrient lockout IMHO.
What's you feeding and watering schedule like?
S
 

johnDeere

New member
thank you for everyone's reply...

In searching for an answer thru other's post, I think my prob lies with the pH. On the life of my plants, I've never check 'washout' pH values. Cumulatively, I've obviously fertilized with pH corrected nutes however never checked my end result product value which is the actual plant's medium. I believe this might be the answer so I'll be watering them tonight, checking their washout h2o and go from their.

jD
 

johnDeere

New member
the mean pH I got last night from my plants' washout were 6.3. didn't think that it was so terrible. So I just filled their pots with water for two rounds, and left it to drain.
last night I also purchased a $10 microscope from radio shack in anticipation of trich inspection.
while sitting there inspecting the plant, I saw a few awkward looking brown spotting on my leaves. Took out the loops and BAMM...there they were, little MotherF*ckers, spider mites....
how can I think that my crop can be so invincible from pest.
so did a search and found some members to use HotSpot insect killers.
off to walmart to purchase...turned off the fan and set the air scrubber for 15/60 min on/off cycle and hope for the best. I plan to be dilligent against these littleF*ckers.
I'm prepared to wipe down every little leaf. I didn't go this far into my first grow and just to give up to these mothers...
what do you guys think...
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Yellow sticky traps and neem are my tactic, neem is systemic and can protect your plants well into flowering, if you water with neem it will go from the roots to the shoots and ward off a wide range of "borg".

Suby
 

gladysvjubb

Active member
Veteran
HotShot No Pest Strips. It's your only line of defense. Check at Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot or Garden Centers or ebay.

For a Mite free growing environment.


 
Suby said:
Yellow sticky traps and neem are my tactic, neem is systemic and can protect your plants well into flowering, if you water with neem it will go from the roots to the shoots and ward off a wide range of "borg".

Suby
How long into flower and before harvest can neem be used on the soil medium? Thx!
 
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