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yellow leaves, green veins, cal/mag? N? UGG
- Thread starter stella
- Start date
UPDATE
i have new root growths on all my ladies
they started shooting out of the rockwool about 2 days ago. although the cheese was severely affected, i do see some swelling of buds and haven't noticed any further yellowing of the leaves. Keeping the ph 'round 6, ppm 1250-1300..moved some other ladies into 12/12 they look great so far.
Thanks all- i'll post some photos soon..
Hydro- thinking of switching to floranova bloom (by itself) for flowering..Can you get accurate ppm readings with this? i was under the impression that w/organic nutes, a ppm meter doesn't work... I've also heard that it's kinda sludgy- might be a problem in a hydro dwc system, dontcha think?
i have new root growths on all my ladies
they started shooting out of the rockwool about 2 days ago. although the cheese was severely affected, i do see some swelling of buds and haven't noticed any further yellowing of the leaves. Keeping the ph 'round 6, ppm 1250-1300..moved some other ladies into 12/12 they look great so far.Thanks all- i'll post some photos soon..
Hydro- thinking of switching to floranova bloom (by itself) for flowering..Can you get accurate ppm readings with this? i was under the impression that w/organic nutes, a ppm meter doesn't work... I've also heard that it's kinda sludgy- might be a problem in a hydro dwc system, dontcha think?
UPDATE
i have new root growths on all my ladies
Thanks all- i'll post some photos soon..
Hydro- thinking of switching to floranova bloom (by itself) for flowering..Can you get accurate ppm readings with this? i was under the impression that w/organic nutes, a ppm meter doesn't work... I've also heard that it's kinda sludgy- might be a problem in a hydro dwc system, dontcha think?
It mixes just like any other nute I've used. Don't see why it would be a problem. It only has 5% content that's organic based fulvic/humic acids. Maybe something else as well.
Personally I haven't seen the sludge people talk about. Maybe this happens with people that are using tap water, additives or maybe a combination of both? Not sure.
I use only RO water and FNB or FNG and it just looks awesome
I would imagine that if you're having sludge issues in DWC you're maintaining TDS with nuted add-backs. No?
Anyone have sludge issues with the simple RO add-back and dump? (Which is what I use.)
Anyone have sludge issues with the simple RO add-back and dump? (Which is what I use.)
ok, it's been around 2 weeks, healthy roots, buds getting hard and big BUT i'm noticing yellow specs on plants that have been xfered to the flower chamber- looks like a calcium deff- UGG more crap to deal with-
whada you all think, add some cal/mag @1tsp per gal and keep ph round 5.8-6
everything else lookin good- except i've been noticing alot of purple stems...Perhaps my water is so clean, that i DO need to add Cal/Mg to suppliment. Anyone care to chime in??
whada you all think, add some cal/mag @1tsp per gal and keep ph round 5.8-6
everything else lookin good- except i've been noticing alot of purple stems...Perhaps my water is so clean, that i DO need to add Cal/Mg to suppliment. Anyone care to chime in??
Your res temps are way off. Keep it around 68F.
If you can't do that, switch to E&F or Drip so you won't have to worry about it.
Up the pH a bit more to 6.1 but don't add it directly to the res.
Give them a couple days with low res temps and high pH and you should be fine. If it's too messed up I would dump and start over. As long as the nutes and water is only a few dollars, it's a hell of an insurance.
Reservoir temp.
If the water gets over 68F you start growing bad stuff in the nutrients, your pH will drop and you'll have root rot. I used to use frozen pop-bottles of water until I switched to drip and E&F.
If I remember correctly, 65F is the lowest you want to go, unless you're in a high heat environment, since the plant will begin to slow down in growth below that point. The lower the temp, the more oxygen can be absorbed as well so it's a double benefit for DWC.
Yes, you'll not get a baseline on what your plants really require.
After a few grows, when you feel you really know how they respond to the way you feed them, by all means play with additives. Until then, you're just shooting yourself in the foot 'cause you don't know what, exactly, the plants are responding to.
Ca and Mg need to stay in the proper proportion to eachother otherwise they lock eachother out. You risk locking out Ca which is a bitch to unlock. Try the pH raise first.
Brown slime in a hydro res is a sign Ca has been locked out.
thanks Wait- i guess i'll sit back and wait too..Just kinda miffs me as my ph was already in the 6-6.1 range and the Ca def. is a new issue...
plants look healthy otherwise, with lots new growth and roots...high temp now in the high 70's as compared to the mid 80's I don't have a thermometer in the tubs, but the water is cool to the touch...
thanks all, i will be harvesting the cheese soon and will post some pics..the smell is so fruity, and tons of trichomes everyware.
YIPPEE
plants look healthy otherwise, with lots new growth and roots...high temp now in the high 70's as compared to the mid 80's I don't have a thermometer in the tubs, but the water is cool to the touch...
thanks all, i will be harvesting the cheese soon and will post some pics..the smell is so fruity, and tons of trichomes everyware.
YIPPEE
You should still see some 'changes' happening as different elements move through the leaves. Give it a few more days of good nutes/temps and everything should balance out just fine.
