Yayyy! My first colloidal silver generator (photo)

[festivus]

High Country, I'be been able to collect small amounts of pollen with each attempt, but the pollen has always been sterile. What strain is the one in the pics?

It's too bad this process doesn't work on all strains. I, like most of you were attracted to this method so we could perpetuate our clone-only strains. Is anyone else having trouble getting viable pollen from S1's?

 

[festivus]

for what reason would it not work? what mechanism makes it sterile?

That seems to be the question of the hour... I don't claim to know much of anything about breeding, but it seems likely it's the absence of male chromosomes in the host plant.

If you look at the pics in this thread of the converted females, many of the male flowers are yellow and over ripe. In nature, you don't see this, as it's a matter of days or even hours from male flower development to pollen release. Anyone who has checked their plants and discovered brown pistils that seemed to spring up overnight know this to be true.

There are also lots of pics of c/s created seeds and seedlings, but few pics of finished target plants and bud shots. Either this is just a coincidence, or something else is going on.

Please don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing the process or any of you good peeps that have contributed your experiences to Phenominal's thread. We all know there's something special here, and I'm just trying to sort it out.

 

[High Country]

High Country, I'be been able to collect small amounts of pollen with each attempt, but the pollen has always been sterile. What strain is the one in the pics?

It's too bad this process doesn't work on all strains. I, like most of you were attracted to this method so we could perpetuate our clone-only strains. Is anyone else having trouble getting viable pollen from S1's?

The strain I reversed is an indica of unknown origins. It is a very stable strain and has never hermied in the past. I didn't think the CS would reverse it because it is so stable.

Maybe I was just lucky as this was my first attempt at reversal. I was anticipating a lot more seed and of the seed produced about 50% germinated. One day I will try the process again and see what happens. I don't know why your pollen was sterile.

 

[420stoner]

Well mate, as you're aware it's been known to science for many decades that CS can be used as an ethylene inhibitor to produce pollen from females, but its use with cannabis still seems somewhat shrouded in mystery and myth

But this thread (an indirect result of my talks with you) has helped blow away at least a couple of those myths...

For example, we've discovered that you may only need to spray as little as 5 days to end up forcing the female to produce pollen (i myself have had a strong positive result from just 10 days of once-a-day spraying). [Obviously you still need to wait a week or two afterwards for the pollen to start developing]

We've also discovered that you can still induce a female to produce pollen when it's well into flowering - my Sour Diesel was over a month into flowering before I started applying CS and that is now consumed by pollen bananas (whereas all current guides recommend "start spraying at least two weeks before you send the plant into 12/12 flowering"). Yes you can still go that route, but the plant will be smaller and unless it's a clone you won't know if it's male or female, so we've proven that YES you can wait until you know it's a female before deciding to apply CS.

We've also established that yes you can use a female from feminised seeds as the target mother.

We've also established that you can pollenate a CS-drenched female with regular pollen, and it will still create both 1) feminised pollen (as a result of the CS), and 2) regular seeds (as a result of the exposure to regular pollen).
It may also self-pollenate which is great because the resulting seeds would be feminised, but there generally won't be many seeds from that, plus it'd be impossible to distinguish them from the regular beans.

cellardweller mate, as I said in the first post in this thread it was YOU who first made me realise how easy making CS could be, and as a result of that I made my own CS generator, then made this thread, and since then nearly 50,000 views have been made of this thread, so mate I raise my glass to you in a toast - cheers buddy, and here's to many successful CS feminisations by the viewers of this thread!

i want to flower my plants first to make sure there females & then add the 'cs' but where do you spray the 'cs' at? the buds or the leafs ? & if you spray on the buds wont it produce mould?

 

[ScrubNinja]

but it seems likely it's the absence of male chromosomes in the host plant.

Hiya festivus. Yeah it's a tricky one. My scientific side leans toward what you said. On my first attempt I got no pollen, but had the same cut going separately, ready for "selfing" as it were. It was a great grow, even though the seeds didn't pan out, but I realised near the end that the door had been leaking light fairly bad for some time. The cut was so female that the bud right next to the light leak just grew a little mongy, but even then, no herming. I've never heard of this cut herming ever, actually.

But then I think of Mr XX and his stress testing to find true females, and I go back to chin-scratching (he seems to use the most female females he can find). But then again, he seems to be saying you will have to hunt around a lot for "the right" true female, so f**k it, if I had a gun to my head, I would think your quote is accurate. I hope the following is helpful:

POSTED BYTHESILICONMAGICIAN ON FEBRUARY 13, 1999 AT 05:17:41 PT As some of you may know I've been a regular in the chat room for a while and I spend a large amount of time in there. I have had the extreme pleasure of speaking to Mr. XX over the last few nights for many hours and have gotten to know him quite well via email and the chat. He has confided in me and in a few others about his process for coming up with 100 percent female seeds.

Mr. XX is a very nice guy, funny too and it's always a pleasure to speak with him. He doesn't speak English too well, but his wit comes through the rough language and he's a riot. He's a pure lover of cannabis and feels that everyone should share and share alike. He simply wants to share his knowledge with the cannabis community, and because he's spent 15 years researching this, I spoke about it with him in depth.

He has stressed literally hundreds of plants with irregular photoperiods. What he does is put the lights on 12/12 for 10 days. Then he turns the lights on 24 hours, then 12/12 again for a few days, then back to 24 hours for a day, then 12/12 again for a few weeks. If he does this and no hermaphrodites come up, he has found a 100% XX female that can't turn hermaphrodite naturally. He claims that your chances of finding a 100% XX female is vastly increased when using Indica genetics. He also informed me that the more Afghani or Nepalese genetics the plant has, the better the chances of finding a natural XX female. In his own words: "Where did nature give weed a home originally?" I tried to get him to narrow it down to a ratio, but he never specified just how many plants per are XX females. He claims there are plenty of XX females for everybody, and that's all he will say on the subject. It takes a lot of time and a lot of plants to find that one female.
He then uses gibberellic acid, mixing 30 centiliters of water with 0.02 grams of gibberellic acid and 2 drops of natruim hydroxide to liquefy the gibberellic. Then applies as normal and creates the male flowers. He has gotten down to the 4th generation without loss of vigor, and with no genetic deficiencies and hermaphrodites. He claims that the plants are exact genetic clones of one another, complete sisters. Basically it's cloned from seed instead of from normal cloning methods.

POSTED BY THESILICON MAGICIAN ON FEBRUARY 13, 1999 AT 05:17:41 PT
Mr. XX also says that it's easy for the home grower to find an XX female. It's a very time-consuming process but a straightforward one. He advises home growers to confine themselves to a single strain. Mr. XX used a Skunktfl x Haze x Hawaiian Indica. He says to separate those plants from your main grow and stress them severely. Do this repeatedly with every new crop of seeds you get of that strain until you find the XX female. While this is time consuming it is by no means impossible.

The above is also reproduced in Greg Green's breeding book. They cover some more about femming/selfing too if you ever want some hard copy reading.

Also, someone was asking about how clone-like the resulting progeny will be. It's just an informed guess but I believe if you CS a very stable, true breeding strain, then it would be very "clone-from-seed"-ish. But if you were to CS that F2 sativa x indica that your buddy made, I reckon they would be all over the place. Not necessarily a bad thing btw. It's not any different to traditional M x F breeding as far as I understand, apart from the obvious.

Anyways, I think my last attempt was maybe the 4th time, and still no motherlovin' seeds although I did get plenty formed, but the wet season and PM destroyed everything. Now I moved and can't grow so FML

Agreed it would be nice to see more pics of the progeny, actually blooming and all that. Happy grows.

420stoner, spray the whole area you want to turn male when there are no flowers or just sex pistils. When "proper" flowers start forming spray the leaves only if you're worried about mould, it is fine. Be sure to leave some of each plant unsprayed if you wish to have anything to fertilise.

Why not spray for like a week or two before flip? If some of the sprayed plants turn out to be males...toss them.

 

[festivus]

Excellent post ScrubNinja with many good points. It sounds like Mr. XX has a good handle on how to determine "true" females. It seems they are easier to find with indica/afghani strains than sativa dom strains, but that's just my opinion. I've run into more hermi traits with sativa dominant strains like thai and trainwreck.

 

[googolsack]

Does spraying one branch with CS render the whole plant 'Unusable'?

Does spraying one branch with CS render the whole plant 'Unusable'?

Hello all, i started a thread asking this same question but i then thought that i may get a better response in this thread...........

I have a question for those who may know.
I understand that when you spray colloidal silver on a female to produce some male flowers, the plant in mention cannot be used, yes?
But, i was wondering if this is only if you are spraying the whole plant. If you only spray one small branch does only the one branch produce male flowers, and also become unusable?
Thanks, and regards

 

[High Country]

PROGENY, ABOUT 3 WEEKS AFTER GERMINATION

PROGENY, ABOUT 3 WEEKS AFTER GERMINATION

CS FEMINIZED SEEDLINGS, INDICA

 

[GET MO]

can u reuse the coins or are they done for after the first go?

 

[trichrider]

reuse them until they go away which will be beyond your lifetime btw.

 

[High Country]

i want to flower my plants first to make sure there females & then add the 'cs' but where do you spray the 'cs' at? the buds or the leafs ? & if you spray on the buds wont it produce mould?

Soak the whole fucking plant, nuke it daily about a week before flip to 12/12, it works.

 

[shafty420]

gd info high country seedlings lookin gd

 

[Scrogerman]

I luv this thread, great info throughout, props!¬)k+

 

[googolsack]

hmmmm???

 

[Bobo Bolinsky]

Many Thanks to PhenoMenal and lots of others here for this terrific thread. This is something I've wanted to do but not had quite enuf info on the whole process. I am a brand newbie here, so really I'm not trying to hijack - but thought I'd throw out my 3 or 4 Cents, sorry if its long.
There was previous mention of adding dish detergent--as a Ph lowerer I believe. I think it should be a good thing, but more because it is a wetting agent--better absorption. The H202 also a good addition to most any foliar feed. I'll save a few ?'s I have don't need to go crazy, but here is a new bit of an alternative generating system for what it's worth. I didn't include some of the silver/actual generator as its been covered

AT ALL TIMES, EXCEPT DURING THE COOKING OF THE COLLOIDAL SILVER, THE SILVER WIRES SHOULD BE PROTECTED FROM ANY LIGHT. THEY SHOULD BE WRAPPED AND STORED SO THEY ARE NEVER EXPOSED TO LIGHT. SILVER WILL CHEMICALLY REACT TO LIGHT.

The Glass Jars

You will need a 1 gallon wide-mouth glass jar. It is critical this jar is made of pure glass, and not plastic!! Plastic can create a static charge.

The easiest way to obtain such a jar, if you cannot find one, is to buy a 1 gallon glass jar of pickles. At Wal-Mart, for example, the ones with the food stores in them, you can buy pickles in bulk in 1 gallon glass jars. Wal-Mart also has a section with many glass jars in it. At grocery stores the large jars will be in the bulk food section or in the pickle section.

You will also need a plastic funnel which has a very wide bottom and a large funnel with has a narrow bottom. The wide-bottom funnels can be found at Wal-Mart in the canning section, or at any grocery store that has a canning section. These funnels are not critical, but they come in very handy when pouring the water from jar to jar.

You should also have some amber jars for storing the finished colloidal silver. Even if you are able to buy the amber jars, in quart or half-gallon size, you still need to store the jars in a dark place. Here is one vendor of quart-sized (i.e. 950 cc) amber jars (product: 4011-05):
http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin2b.html

Construction of the Unit

You will need two alligator clips, which can be small, but yet large enough to hold a 12 or 14 guage silver wire in place (these would be medium sized alligator clips at Radio Shack). Usually, these clips come in packs of 10 or so alligator clips.

With the power pack unit unplugged, during construction, cut-off whatever is at the end of the wire on the original power pack. Separate the two wires for several inches. Strip each wire and solder an alligator clip at the end of each wire. Use one red alligator clip and one black alligator clip for the two wires. It doesn't matter which color goes on which wire.

You may want to use one 100 ohm resistor. There are pros and cons associated with putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires. The good news is that it will protect the power pack should to two silver wires touch each other by accident. The bad news is that putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires will DOUBLE the length of time it takes to cook the colloidal silver.

Most people will not use a resistor. They will plug the power pack into a power strip, with the power strip turned off. They will then set up their silver wires in place. With the silver wires in place they will turn the power strip power on. Likewise, when they have to remove the silver wires for cleaning, they will turn off the power pack before they touch the silver wires.

It is your choice.

If you do choose to use a resistor, it needs to be put on one of the wires (it doesn't matter which one) between the power supply and the alligator clip. It doesn't matter in what direction the resister is pointed.

If you are going to use an LED, to display a current (which really isn't necessary), put it on the other wire, meaning do not put it on the same wire the resistor in on.

Other Comments

You will definitely want to buy a small, battery powered, hand-held laser, to see how dense the colloidal silver is becoming. These can also be purchased at Radio Shack or any office supply store. After the colloidal silver has been "cooking" for 20 or 30 minutes, if you shine the laser through the glass jar, and look at the laser beam perpendicular to the beam, you can see the progress of the colloidal silver. In other words, your line of sight is perpendicular to the laser beam, which is pointed through the water.

You will probably want a long WOODEN spoon to stir the colloidal silver from time to time. However, stirring the colloidal silver will actually slow down the cooking slightly.

You will need a WOODEN board to hold the wires in place on top of the glass jar. Certainly do not use metal or it will short-circuit the silver wires. For example, use a small cutting board, with two 1/8" holes drilled in the middle, 1 to 1 1/4 inches apart. Put one alligator clip on the end of each 12 inch silver wire to keep the wire from falling into the water. The other end of the silver wire is pushed through the hole in the wood and goes into the water. Thus, the wooden board in placed on top of the wide mouth jar and holds the silver wires in place.

The alligator clip is positioned so that the silver wire goes down to about 1 inch from the bottom of the jar.

The Type of Water to Use (see *note below, this is for drinking)

The ONLY type of water you should use is distilled water, which has been distilled by water distillation (not reverse osmosis). There are NO exceptions. All other types of water have too many impurities. While water impurities help speed up the cooking of the colloidal silver, the minerals in the water can bind to the silver particles and may eventually create a health condition known as argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey because of taking high doses of impure colloidal silver over time. It is very difficult to reverse the condition, so it should be avoided.

DO NOT ADD SALT OR ANYTHING ELSE TO THE WATER - PERIOD. While salt will allow current to flow, it may create silver chloride, which can cause argyria over time.

Do NOT add ANYTHING to the water if it will create a silver compound, such as silver chloride.

Do NOT add preservatives, minerals, EDTA, proteins, gelatin, coloring, honey, etc.

*NOTE:
You may use tap water ONLY if you are going to use the colloidal silver for EXTERNAL purposes. It is 10 times easier to use tap water than distilled water because it allows electrical currents to flow much, much better than distilled water. However, such colloidal silver should only be used for external purposes.

No matter what kind of water you use, if the water turns black, throw the water away, it has too many impurities in it.

Heating the Water

The water will always be put into the one gallon jar in two parts. For the first part, one-half quart (e.g. One-half liter) of distilled water is put into the one gallon jar. This is either distilled water or distilled water from a batch of colloidal silver (this will be explained below). Either way the water is at room temperature. The main reason for putting this water in first is to keep the glass jug from breaking when you pour the boiling water into it.

The second part of putting liquids into the jar, is when you put pure distilled water, which was heated to a low boil, into the jar to finish filling the one-gallon jar up with water.

In other words, first put 1/2 quart of distilled water or colloidal silver water, at room temperature, then put in low boiling distilled water to fill the rest of the jar.

Always heat the distilled water in a STAINLESS STEEL POT WHICH IS UNCOATED! NEVER use an aluminum pot or a stainless steel pot which is copper coated or has any other coating. Heat until it comes to a low boil. Then pour the hot water into the jar that already has the room temperature water in it. This is when you use the wide-mouth funnel, though you may use it at other times as well.

Instructions For Cooking the FIRST Batch of Colloidal Silver

The instructions for cooking your first batch of colloidal silver is different than at other times. This is because your first batch does not have the luxury of having previously cooked colloidal silver put into the jar to help enhance the electrical current between the two silver wires.

Pure distilled water, which is the only kind of water you have for the first batch, conducts electricity very, very poorly. The good news is that as the colloidal silver is made, the current will start to flow better and better. Nevertheless, the first batch will take about three hours to make.

Plug the power supply into a power strip which has an on/off switch, so you can turn the power on and off with a switch. Turn the power off so you don't damage the power supply while you are getting set up.

Place the alligator clips onto the silver wires, one black on the top of one wire and one red alligator clip on top of the other wire. Do not let the silver wires touch, just in case you forgot and left the power on.

Put the silver wires through the wood and into the water and make sure the two wires are not touching each other or the side or bottom of the glass jar. Lower the silver wires to about 1 inch from the bottom of the glass jar.

Mark the time and turn the power on.

EVERY 4 or 5 minutes you need to:
1) Turn off the power,
2) Remove the silver wires from the jar,
3) Wipe the two silver wires with a paper towel AND a non-metallic pot scrubbing pad (e.g. 1/4" thick nylon Scotchbright pad),
4) Put the silver wires back into the water, and
5) Turn the power back on.

All of this is necessary to prevent a black crud from building up on the silver wires and floating to the bottom of the jar.

This cooking should last about three hours (which includes the frequent stops to clean the silver wires). The water should NOT turn milky or black, but it may turn light yellow, if looked at from above. (These numbers are based on a 400 mA power pack.) Light yellow is good, but not necessary.

Laser Check
The real test is the laser light. After the first half hour or so, you should start shining the laser through the water from time to time, looking at it with a line of sight which is perpendicular to the laser beam. You will start to see the beam, over time, get brighter and thicker. The thicker and brighter the beam, as it appears in the water, the higher the PPM of the colloidal silver.

By the time you are finished the beam should look solid red (or whatever color laser you have), with crisp edges at the top and bottom of the light. This is your sign the colloidal silver is ready. After three hours of cooking and cleaning, you should be able to see what this type of laser light looks like.

When you are done cooking the colloidal silver, put the water into the quart jars. Put aside one of the amber jars to "seed" the next batch of colloidal silver. You will use one-half of this quart jar to "seed" the next batch. Every subsequent batch needs to be "seeded" from one of the prior batches.

The Second, Third, etc. Batches

There are only two differences between the second, third, etc. Batches and the first.

The first difference is that the half-quart of distilled water, at room temperature, that was put into the jar will be replaced by a half-quart of colloidal silver previously cooked. This is important to help the electrical current flow and shorten the time it takes to make a batch.

The second difference is that the second, third, etc. Batches should only take about an hour and a half.

Other Comments

It is important to rotate the silver wires. In other words, do not always put the same silver wire on the red alligator clip and the other one on the black alligator clip.

How you make sure you rotate them is up to you, but the silver wires will last a lot longer if they are rotated at least once per cooking, though they may be rotated during a cooking (after they are cleaned, for example).

Store the silver wires in a dark envelope or other dark place.

Store the colloidal silver in a cool place, but do NOT refrigerate the colloidal silver.
NEVER REFRIGERATE THE COLLOIDAL SILVER.

Store the amber jars in a dark place.

If you buy a pickle jar, it is impossible to remove the pickle smell from the plastic liner in the lid. You may want to just remove the lid and never use it again. Or you could put wax paper between the lid and jar.


An Alternate Method If You Cannot Obtain a Power Pack

If you are not able to obtain the power pack, you can substitute three 9-volt radio batteries. Hook them in series (hook the three battery leads negative to positive, leaving a positive lead at one end and a negative lead at the other end open) so they output 27 volts. The three 9-volt batteries replace the power pack until you can get a power pack.

When using the three batteries, it is better to use a 16 ounce glass jar (i.e. 450 grams). As above, in the first batch you should use distilled water, thus it may take a signficant amount of time to make the first batch. Using the technique above, put 10% or so of this first batch in a glass storage container. Then, put this 10% in the second batch so it will not take as long to make the second batch. And so on.

 

[cheesey]

heres how to make a 27v cs generator useing 3 9v batterys




1. : Attach the caps together (as pictured at top). Twist the red leads to the black leads, leaving one red lead, and one black lead free. This will result (when batteries are connected) in a total of 27 volts coming off of leads. This is the power source.

2. Connect one of the leads (which is attached to the alligator clip) to one of the free leads coming from the power source.

3. Connect the other lead (which is attached to the other alligator clip) to the remaining free lead coming from the power source.

4. Wrap all connections with electrical tape (so that there are no exposed bare wires). You can also use electrical tape to tape the batteries together to make the unit less cumbersome.

 

[cheesey]

ive been brewing for just over 48h with my 27v cs generator .tomorrow i will have my cs ppm tester back hopefully the ppm will be over 30ppm .

some photos

 

[cheesey]

just tested my 48h brew with 27v (x3 9v batterys) and its 30.2 ppm

 

[Bobo Bolinsky]

Question thrown out there. If all goes well will 2 treated fems produce enuf pollen to pollinated 4 other plants. If not what is a reasonable ratio? Thanks for any replies

 

[High Country]

Many Thanks to PhenoMenal and lots of others here for this terrific thread. This is something I've wanted to do but not had quite enuf info on the whole process. I am a brand newbie here, so really I'm not trying to hijack - but thought I'd throw out my 3 or 4 Cents, sorry if its long.
There was previous mention of adding dish detergent--as a Ph lowerer I believe. I think it should be a good thing, but more because it is a wetting agent--better absorption. The H202 also a good addition to most any foliar feed. I'll save a few ?'s I have don't need to go crazy, but here is a new bit of an alternative generating system for what it's worth. I didn't include some of the silver/actual generator as its been covered

AT ALL TIMES, EXCEPT DURING THE COOKING OF THE COLLOIDAL SILVER, THE SILVER WIRES SHOULD BE PROTECTED FROM ANY LIGHT. THEY SHOULD BE WRAPPED AND STORED SO THEY ARE NEVER EXPOSED TO LIGHT. SILVER WILL CHEMICALLY REACT TO LIGHT.

The Glass Jars

You will need a 1 gallon wide-mouth glass jar. It is critical this jar is made of pure glass, and not plastic!! Plastic can create a static charge.

The easiest way to obtain such a jar, if you cannot find one, is to buy a 1 gallon glass jar of pickles. At Wal-Mart, for example, the ones with the food stores in them, you can buy pickles in bulk in 1 gallon glass jars. Wal-Mart also has a section with many glass jars in it. At grocery stores the large jars will be in the bulk food section or in the pickle section.

You will also need a plastic funnel which has a very wide bottom and a large funnel with has a narrow bottom. The wide-bottom funnels can be found at Wal-Mart in the canning section, or at any grocery store that has a canning section. These funnels are not critical, but they come in very handy when pouring the water from jar to jar.

You should also have some amber jars for storing the finished colloidal silver. Even if you are able to buy the amber jars, in quart or half-gallon size, you still need to store the jars in a dark place. Here is one vendor of quart-sized (i.e. 950 cc) amber jars (product: 4011-05):
http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin2b.html

Construction of the Unit

You will need two alligator clips, which can be small, but yet large enough to hold a 12 or 14 guage silver wire in place (these would be medium sized alligator clips at Radio Shack). Usually, these clips come in packs of 10 or so alligator clips.

With the power pack unit unplugged, during construction, cut-off whatever is at the end of the wire on the original power pack. Separate the two wires for several inches. Strip each wire and solder an alligator clip at the end of each wire. Use one red alligator clip and one black alligator clip for the two wires. It doesn't matter which color goes on which wire.

You may want to use one 100 ohm resistor. There are pros and cons associated with putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires. The good news is that it will protect the power pack should to two silver wires touch each other by accident. The bad news is that putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires will DOUBLE the length of time it takes to cook the colloidal silver.

Most people will not use a resistor. They will plug the power pack into a power strip, with the power strip turned off. They will then set up their silver wires in place. With the silver wires in place they will turn the power strip power on. Likewise, when they have to remove the silver wires for cleaning, they will turn off the power pack before they touch the silver wires.

It is your choice.

If you do choose to use a resistor, it needs to be put on one of the wires (it doesn't matter which one) between the power supply and the alligator clip. It doesn't matter in what direction the resister is pointed.

If you are going to use an LED, to display a current (which really isn't necessary), put it on the other wire, meaning do not put it on the same wire the resistor in on.

Other Comments

You will definitely want to buy a small, battery powered, hand-held laser, to see how dense the colloidal silver is becoming. These can also be purchased at Radio Shack or any office supply store. After the colloidal silver has been "cooking" for 20 or 30 minutes, if you shine the laser through the glass jar, and look at the laser beam perpendicular to the beam, you can see the progress of the colloidal silver. In other words, your line of sight is perpendicular to the laser beam, which is pointed through the water.

You will probably want a long WOODEN spoon to stir the colloidal silver from time to time. However, stirring the colloidal silver will actually slow down the cooking slightly.

You will need a WOODEN board to hold the wires in place on top of the glass jar. Certainly do not use metal or it will short-circuit the silver wires. For example, use a small cutting board, with two 1/8" holes drilled in the middle, 1 to 1 1/4 inches apart. Put one alligator clip on the end of each 12 inch silver wire to keep the wire from falling into the water. The other end of the silver wire is pushed through the hole in the wood and goes into the water. Thus, the wooden board in placed on top of the wide mouth jar and holds the silver wires in place.

The alligator clip is positioned so that the silver wire goes down to about 1 inch from the bottom of the jar.

The Type of Water to Use (see *note below, this is for drinking)

The ONLY type of water you should use is distilled water, which has been distilled by water distillation (not reverse osmosis). There are NO exceptions. All other types of water have too many impurities. While water impurities help speed up the cooking of the colloidal silver, the minerals in the water can bind to the silver particles and may eventually create a health condition known as argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey because of taking high doses of impure colloidal silver over time. It is very difficult to reverse the condition, so it should be avoided.

DO NOT ADD SALT OR ANYTHING ELSE TO THE WATER - PERIOD. While salt will allow current to flow, it may create silver chloride, which can cause argyria over time.

Do NOT add ANYTHING to the water if it will create a silver compound, such as silver chloride.

Do NOT add preservatives, minerals, EDTA, proteins, gelatin, coloring, honey, etc.

*NOTE:
You may use tap water ONLY if you are going to use the colloidal silver for EXTERNAL purposes. It is 10 times easier to use tap water than distilled water because it allows electrical currents to flow much, much better than distilled water. However, such colloidal silver should only be used for external purposes.

No matter what kind of water you use, if the water turns black, throw the water away, it has too many impurities in it.

Heating the Water

The water will always be put into the one gallon jar in two parts. For the first part, one-half quart (e.g. One-half liter) of distilled water is put into the one gallon jar. This is either distilled water or distilled water from a batch of colloidal silver (this will be explained below). Either way the water is at room temperature. The main reason for putting this water in first is to keep the glass jug from breaking when you pour the boiling water into it.

The second part of putting liquids into the jar, is when you put pure distilled water, which was heated to a low boil, into the jar to finish filling the one-gallon jar up with water.

In other words, first put 1/2 quart of distilled water or colloidal silver water, at room temperature, then put in low boiling distilled water to fill the rest of the jar.

Always heat the distilled water in a STAINLESS STEEL POT WHICH IS UNCOATED! NEVER use an aluminum pot or a stainless steel pot which is copper coated or has any other coating. Heat until it comes to a low boil. Then pour the hot water into the jar that already has the room temperature water in it. This is when you use the wide-mouth funnel, though you may use it at other times as well.

Instructions For Cooking the FIRST Batch of Colloidal Silver

The instructions for cooking your first batch of colloidal silver is different than at other times. This is because your first batch does not have the luxury of having previously cooked colloidal silver put into the jar to help enhance the electrical current between the two silver wires.

Pure distilled water, which is the only kind of water you have for the first batch, conducts electricity very, very poorly. The good news is that as the colloidal silver is made, the current will start to flow better and better. Nevertheless, the first batch will take about three hours to make.

Plug the power supply into a power strip which has an on/off switch, so you can turn the power on and off with a switch. Turn the power off so you don't damage the power supply while you are getting set up.

Place the alligator clips onto the silver wires, one black on the top of one wire and one red alligator clip on top of the other wire. Do not let the silver wires touch, just in case you forgot and left the power on.

Put the silver wires through the wood and into the water and make sure the two wires are not touching each other or the side or bottom of the glass jar. Lower the silver wires to about 1 inch from the bottom of the glass jar.

Mark the time and turn the power on.

EVERY 4 or 5 minutes you need to:
1) Turn off the power,
2) Remove the silver wires from the jar,
3) Wipe the two silver wires with a paper towel AND a non-metallic pot scrubbing pad (e.g. 1/4" thick nylon Scotchbright pad),
4) Put the silver wires back into the water, and
5) Turn the power back on.

All of this is necessary to prevent a black crud from building up on the silver wires and floating to the bottom of the jar.

This cooking should last about three hours (which includes the frequent stops to clean the silver wires). The water should NOT turn milky or black, but it may turn light yellow, if looked at from above. (These numbers are based on a 400 mA power pack.) Light yellow is good, but not necessary.

Laser Check
The real test is the laser light. After the first half hour or so, you should start shining the laser through the water from time to time, looking at it with a line of sight which is perpendicular to the laser beam. You will start to see the beam, over time, get brighter and thicker. The thicker and brighter the beam, as it appears in the water, the higher the PPM of the colloidal silver.

By the time you are finished the beam should look solid red (or whatever color laser you have), with crisp edges at the top and bottom of the light. This is your sign the colloidal silver is ready. After three hours of cooking and cleaning, you should be able to see what this type of laser light looks like.

When you are done cooking the colloidal silver, put the water into the quart jars. Put aside one of the amber jars to "seed" the next batch of colloidal silver. You will use one-half of this quart jar to "seed" the next batch. Every subsequent batch needs to be "seeded" from one of the prior batches.

The Second, Third, etc. Batches

There are only two differences between the second, third, etc. Batches and the first.

The first difference is that the half-quart of distilled water, at room temperature, that was put into the jar will be replaced by a half-quart of colloidal silver previously cooked. This is important to help the electrical current flow and shorten the time it takes to make a batch.

The second difference is that the second, third, etc. Batches should only take about an hour and a half.

Other Comments

It is important to rotate the silver wires. In other words, do not always put the same silver wire on the red alligator clip and the other one on the black alligator clip.

How you make sure you rotate them is up to you, but the silver wires will last a lot longer if they are rotated at least once per cooking, though they may be rotated during a cooking (after they are cleaned, for example).

Store the silver wires in a dark envelope or other dark place.

Store the colloidal silver in a cool place, but do NOT refrigerate the colloidal silver.
NEVER REFRIGERATE THE COLLOIDAL SILVER.

Store the amber jars in a dark place.

If you buy a pickle jar, it is impossible to remove the pickle smell from the plastic liner in the lid. You may want to just remove the lid and never use it again. Or you could put wax paper between the lid and jar.


An Alternate Method If You Cannot Obtain a Power Pack

If you are not able to obtain the power pack, you can substitute three 9-volt radio batteries. Hook them in series (hook the three battery leads negative to positive, leaving a positive lead at one end and a negative lead at the other end open) so they output 27 volts. The three 9-volt batteries replace the power pack until you can get a power pack.

When using the three batteries, it is better to use a 16 ounce glass jar (i.e. 450 grams). As above, in the first batch you should use distilled water, thus it may take a signficant amount of time to make the first batch. Using the technique above, put 10% or so of this first batch in a glass storage container. Then, put this 10% in the second batch so it will not take as long to make the second batch. And so on.

This thing works too. Commercially available colloidal silver generator.