raphenilweed
Member
sounds like light burn or heat burn more than nutrient water issue. You also asked if could be a RH thing and yes the humidity if too high will cause leaf deformation but in most cases the leaves curl up.
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wtf is this?
- Thread starter highbrid1
- Start date
Pointswest
Member
Your new lamps are running hotter then the older ones. The plants are heat stressed, your ambient temperatures may be OK but the tips near the light are getting too hot and burning up the stigmas. Do the hand test below the light and if it is hot on your hand it is to hot for the new tips. Raise the light and the problems will probably stop appearing and normal growth should resume.
you just need to flush for 24 hours, and see what happens from there. move it away from the light a little too. when i had this happen i had to change the water in my dwc buckets every day for a week, and check the ph twice a day. i dont know what to tell you for soil on this one though.
Tropic
Member
I've had the exact same thing happen a couple months earlier, on a White x F13 female. She was 1.5-2 months old, in a 2 gallon pot. The pistils were burnt, the calyxes stayed very small. Otherwise, great vigour. Happened just after switching to flower. I repotted her into the ground and a week later she was exploding, so I'm guessing as others have said, flush or repot, you either have salt build-up and/or nute lockout.
Best of luck
Best of luck
hi there highbrid1
he told me that his soil had a EC rate of 3,5
imo n once again, flush them and check your run off
had lately a discussion about almost the same issue with a good friend, i was pretty surprised as
he told me that his soil had a EC rate of 3,5
imo n once again, flush them and check your run off
Thanks guys. About this
This is a "Producer" grow box from BC Northern Lights. The bulbs are encased behind some very thick glass and have their own exhaust fans. The canopy is about a foot under the actual bulbs w/ a temp of 85ish. Even the flowers at the lower levels (temp 75) have burned stigmas.
About the nute lockout thing:
- I just transplanted from 6x6 inch pots to 1.5 gallon pots 2 weeks ago as I always do pre flower
- I have fed them a total of ONCE at 20% strength pbp since then
So, there's NO WAY any kind of nute lockout is going on. The soil is a fresh bag of FF OF with 30% perlite. The plants absolutely exploded the first 7 days of flower in the new pots w/o food.
The wet/dry cycle is perfect at about 3-4 days, so is drainage when watering. I'll grab some run off and PH it next time just for the fuk of it.
This is the same exact setup w/ nutes I have been using for years with NO problems at all. This is my third trip with this strain.
The only new variables this grow are:
- I replaced some very old 400w HPS bulbs w new 400 HPS Hortilux bulbs, probably cranking out way more light.
- I used a new kind of rock for drainage at the bottom of the pots, just some standard, round Mexican River rocks (fancy).
ANYBODY WHO CAN FIGURE THIS ONE OUT IS A TRUE MASTER WHO SHOULD BE WORSHIPED AS SUCH........
anybody?
This is a "Producer" grow box from BC Northern Lights. The bulbs are encased behind some very thick glass and have their own exhaust fans. The canopy is about a foot under the actual bulbs w/ a temp of 85ish. Even the flowers at the lower levels (temp 75) have burned stigmas.
About the nute lockout thing:
- I just transplanted from 6x6 inch pots to 1.5 gallon pots 2 weeks ago as I always do pre flower
- I have fed them a total of ONCE at 20% strength pbp since then
So, there's NO WAY any kind of nute lockout is going on. The soil is a fresh bag of FF OF with 30% perlite. The plants absolutely exploded the first 7 days of flower in the new pots w/o food.
The wet/dry cycle is perfect at about 3-4 days, so is drainage when watering. I'll grab some run off and PH it next time just for the fuk of it.
This is the same exact setup w/ nutes I have been using for years with NO problems at all. This is my third trip with this strain.
The only new variables this grow are:
- I replaced some very old 400w HPS bulbs w new 400 HPS Hortilux bulbs, probably cranking out way more light.
- I used a new kind of rock for drainage at the bottom of the pots, just some standard, round Mexican River rocks (fancy).
ANYBODY WHO CAN FIGURE THIS ONE OUT IS A TRUE MASTER WHO SHOULD BE WORSHIPED AS SUCH........
anybody?
no picture is posted 
i'll you when you tell me
i'll you when you tell me
.....
i'll you when you tell me
.....
Admiral Canna
Member
Ganja is right.....salt build up possibly coupled with high temps.
Flush with plain then finish the flush with the nutes for where you should be at.
Flush with plain then finish the flush with the nutes for where you should be at.
Okay, so Ive turned my veg area into a temporary flowering area for some of them. This area has very good ventilation so any offgasing issues will be tested.
I looked at some roots today and like almost all of every plant, they could not be healthier; bright white and already on their way to being rootbound after 2 weeks.
If I dont see any drastic improvement in the next 24-48, I'll be flushing and will at least test the runoff ph and tds next watering.
This is really the weirdest problem Ive ever heard of in my time growing.......
I looked at some roots today and like almost all of every plant, they could not be healthier; bright white and already on their way to being rootbound after 2 weeks.
If I dont see any drastic improvement in the next 24-48, I'll be flushing and will at least test the runoff ph and tds next watering.
This is really the weirdest problem Ive ever heard of in my time growing.......
raphenilweed
Member
Could it be they are rootbound and going " put me in a bigger home please"? The roots might not like being all rubbing up against the side of the container. It's like a jimmy, ya know?
Check this out. It keeps getting weirder.
So, like I said, I separated them a couple days ago. The healthier half stayed in the old flowering box and the less healthy half were moved into the veg area (now 12/12, under a different light, better ventilation, further from light).
Both groups have started shooting out flowers again BUT the new flowers ARE the OLD flowers!! What Im saying is that the old burned hairs are still growing but the new growth on them is fine. So I basically have a bunch of healthy pistols with burned tips (looks really weird).
So for whatever reason, when these pistols first started growing, their exposed tips died and they stopped growing, and now the same hairs are growing again.
This is a great bit of evidence but does not solve anything. It sounds to me like an atmospheric/ventilation problem, like humidity, etc. I did remove the second light from the box, so only one of the new 400s is running in the old box now = less heat by about 5 degrees at the canopy. Each light covered half the box, so the occupied half is not getting less light. Also, whatever gas the plants give out and humidity is less with half the plants in there.
The healthier plants that remained exactly where they were under the NEW bright lights are actually doing better than the ones I moved, so it's not the light (at least not directly, ie too much of it).
Any ideas guys?
I did not flush or transplant anything, just separated them. I think I need to upgrade the fans.
So, like I said, I separated them a couple days ago. The healthier half stayed in the old flowering box and the less healthy half were moved into the veg area (now 12/12, under a different light, better ventilation, further from light).
Both groups have started shooting out flowers again BUT the new flowers ARE the OLD flowers!! What Im saying is that the old burned hairs are still growing but the new growth on them is fine. So I basically have a bunch of healthy pistols with burned tips (looks really weird).
So for whatever reason, when these pistols first started growing, their exposed tips died and they stopped growing, and now the same hairs are growing again.
This is a great bit of evidence but does not solve anything. It sounds to me like an atmospheric/ventilation problem, like humidity, etc. I did remove the second light from the box, so only one of the new 400s is running in the old box now = less heat by about 5 degrees at the canopy. Each light covered half the box, so the occupied half is not getting less light. Also, whatever gas the plants give out and humidity is less with half the plants in there.
The healthier plants that remained exactly where they were under the NEW bright lights are actually doing better than the ones I moved, so it's not the light (at least not directly, ie too much of it).
Any ideas guys?
I did not flush or transplant anything, just separated them. I think I need to upgrade the fans.
more water!!!!!
got the same issue with grape lemonaids massive leaf curl down ward.i was thinkin old nutes but my friend who i share some nutes with has no problems with his girls.ok so ph stays at 5.6-6.0 with 5.8 average ventilation is subpar door crack with square floor fan blowing into crack door from hall way with a window cracked in that room so freash air comes into the room then mixes and is push thru cracked grow room door from hall way and a 4inch squirel fan sucking out the room via ducting on floor so i the heat isnt exhausting high but low, square floor fan is low too blowing in cracked grow room door i dehu at night temps are 80's and rh is 60.ppm's are 600-700 they do seem to go up and the water level goes down but nutes go a lil higher i feed once a day for 2-3hrs. I do have some nutes and micros a lil over a year old cause i buy bulk to cut store traffic to a min.im using b-1,calmagplus,aqua shield,conni,bud factor,rhinoskin,budcandy,voodoo,bigbud once again the girls look fantabulus but im getting a lot of leaf curl down.
Hey thought Id update for future reference purposes.
Like I said b4, I separated half the plants into a different area and got the temps down. Both the ones I kept in the old area and ones in new area started to shoot out new hairs within a few days. I moved the separated ones back into the old area, put the second 400 back in as before and 10 days later everything could not be healthier. Yeeeeahhh... Fat resin covered koosh balls and lookn like a great harvest on the way.
My theory now is that either the canopy temps were too high (85ish) or that it was just too much light for the young plants to handle, the pistols being the most fragile part of the plant were most effected. One I separated, got the temps down and allwed them to catch their bearings, they were ready for the super intense light and are now thriving. Ill post some new pics later,
Like I said b4, I separated half the plants into a different area and got the temps down. Both the ones I kept in the old area and ones in new area started to shoot out new hairs within a few days. I moved the separated ones back into the old area, put the second 400 back in as before and 10 days later everything could not be healthier. Yeeeeahhh... Fat resin covered koosh balls and lookn like a great harvest on the way.
My theory now is that either the canopy temps were too high (85ish) or that it was just too much light for the young plants to handle, the pistols being the most fragile part of the plant were most effected. One I separated, got the temps down and allwed them to catch their bearings, they were ready for the super intense light and are now thriving. Ill post some new pics later,
Bizump.
So Im having this problem again - completely healthy plants 2 weeks into 12/12 only the hairs die before they emerge and new leaf growth is twisted. This time the strains are chem d and wifi og.
Anyone else care to take a stab at it? My new hypothesis is its a result of sulfur I used to treat powdery mildew a week ago. I beleive I used this before when it happened, so makes sense.
Also this time its worse because I cant remove the plants due to them being attached to a trellis.
The most advanced of experts are confused on this one, so I invite any "pros" to give it a try.
arg
So Im having this problem again - completely healthy plants 2 weeks into 12/12 only the hairs die before they emerge and new leaf growth is twisted. This time the strains are chem d and wifi og.
Anyone else care to take a stab at it? My new hypothesis is its a result of sulfur I used to treat powdery mildew a week ago. I beleive I used this before when it happened, so makes sense.
Also this time its worse because I cant remove the plants due to them being attached to a trellis.
The most advanced of experts are confused on this one, so I invite any "pros" to give it a try.
arg
