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Worming 101

thejact55

Well-known member
Alot of the below information is redundant, if you read the whole thread. Sharing my experienced with my first worm bin. Pics were taken a couple weeks back, I have even more castings to this point. On my next run, I am going to fortify by feeding them nettle, comfrey and dandelion as well.

I bought two rubber bins, the same size. Think they are 15 gallons (approx 60 liters). The first bin, I just tossed the lid and put 6 bricks in the bottom. This is a catch bin for any liquid that comes down. I then drilled 6 tiny holes in the bottom of the second bin and placed it on top of the bricks sitting in the first bin. I then drilled a lot of holes in the lid (like 48 holes?) and 12 holes around the top exposed part of the bin. This will allow air to enter. I used a paper shredder to shred newspaper. Just basic news paper, no shiny glossy stuff, nor any normal white paper, as this has bleach and such. You can fill up the bin quite a bit, but mine is only half full. I added and mized water into the newspaper. Not sopping wet, just wet enough to compress and it it will stick together in a ball. I then added a handful of soil and a handful of azomite rock dust to aid in the digestion or chewing of the food for the worms. I bought 500 red wriggler worms off the internet. they arrived a few days later, very healthy. I later bought 300 worms locally, that I was not as impressed with health wise. They breed and double population every few months or so. I feed them fruit and veggies, coffee grounds with the filter, oats, dead leaves/live leaves, rinds from fruit, and other organic foods. No meat, salty foods, onions/garlic, feces or other processed junk. I chop these up really small or use a food processor to make a mush, so the worms can eat it quicker. I usually add kelp meal, alfalfa meal and azomite, as they like this and I assume it might make a better worm casting. I feed them about once a week. Rule is half their weight is what they can eat in a day 1000 worms is a pound, so half pound a day. I find this over-kill. I feed them about a pound a week. I make little food pockets in different places in the bin. bury the food and make sure it is covered with newspaper. I keep this inside, and there is no foul smell. Castings are coming along nicely, I think another month, and i will been done with this run.
 

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slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
These guys get good compost from my own cows...
 

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slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Jact,

FYI azomite is full of aluminum. More than 10%. Supposedly all the good stuff is available to the plant and the aluminum isn't.... not true....
 

Skinny Leaf

Well-known member
Veteran
Filled this trough about 3/4 full with leaf mold compost in early March. I added a layer of compost from the compost pile. The worms came from the compost pile for the initial inoculation. Took them about 7 months to multiply and turn the trough into castings. The trough is about 9" deep with castings. This should last me for the year to make up soil for indoor grows. I'll separate the worms and throw them back in the compost pile. Next spring I'll start the process again.

I added nothing to the trough to feed them except the initial one inch layer of compost from the compost pile. And of course, the leaf mold compost that made up 95% of the trough. By not feeding them they made more castings out of the leaf mold compost then when I fed them before. Although, the worms were smaller in size. I do believe I have more worms in the trough than what I have had before when I fed them.

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Highlighter

ring that bell
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Don't know for sure, but it's what I use for paper with no ill effects.
Just seems proper, to recycle the recycled. I'm a big fan of how businesses are turning to it as a packing material, compared to styrofoam "peanuts". :)
 

Skinny Leaf

Well-known member
Veteran
Well, I started harvesting the trough today. I have to build up to doing this chore. Nothing wrong with a little sweat. Since its still 9o. The castings are so soft and leave just the slight film of poo on your hand when handled. No smell like a good casting should.

Although, I may not have directly fed the worms, I did feed the trough. I added greensand and crab shell to the trough when I initially loaded it up with compost. The greensand and crab meal have long since broke down into a usable form. I may have added some rock dust, but, I don't remember. So, hopefully the castings are loaded up with some micronutrients. That was my goal anyway.

After using the castings to mix my soils, some are destined to become seed bombs. I'll roll the castings in a ball a little bigger than a golfball. I may add some potter's clay to give it some holding power. Then dry that mixture in balls. Once they are dry poke a hole in the seed bomb and place the seed(s) in. Plug hole with castings. Dry one more time. Once that is complete it is time for distribution. Some of us are not in legal states therefore acts like this help push the issue.

I use brown paper in my trough.

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Biggobelly

Member
Recycle the recycled

Recycle the recycled

Don't know for sure, but it's what I use for paper with no ill effects.
Just seems proper, to recycle the recycled. I'm a big fan of how businesses are turning to it as a packing material, compared to styrofoam "peanuts". :)

Thanks for the reply, Highlighter. Puts me at ease knowing that I am not killing my worms and since I don't take the newspaper but have TONS of the brown packing paper, this makes me feel even greener. :biggrin:
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
slownickel,
Yes aluminum, and shitloads of fluoride among other things that I steer away from. I've stopped using Azomite for those reasons. I prefer Sea Crop which can be used by watering with it. Good luck. -granger
 

NWNR

Member
Working my way backwords in this thread. Tons of info. Glad to see current posts to read from.

For people that have made multiple bins in various styles, what is your favorite style bin and why?
 

NWNR

Member
The 'worm guy' that I buy EWC from and have bought a few lbs. of worms in the past recommends using both Red Wigglers and European Earthworms in the same bin.

It's his opinion that the addition of European Earthworms results in a more finished EWC product. I have no way of knowing if he's correct or not but I can say that his castings are very, very nice and he's got a 20+ bins (4' x 8') going and such.

African worms are great if you live in the proper temperature zone. In the Pacific Northwest would have to maintain them in a heated environment. I believe that they do not do well in temps below 70F - I could be wrong the exact temp but I do remember that it's pretty high. A better choice for folks in California and other warmer climates.

CC

Great information aso usual. Thank you for adding the part about region and tempurature. I also live in Oregon so this is especially helpful.
 

NWNR

Member
Blend of Newspaper and maple leaves - great bedding if you dont mind some stems and leaf veins in your final castings. I like to have a clean casting, free of debris and other contaminants for storage and use, or else I would most likely continue using this blend for bedding.

I am interested in using promix, or peat based bedding also. Is anyone else using peat? Do you use peat right out of the bag or do you add lime or use a peat based premix like Promix or something?


I use small 10gal totes for a few reasons. I have 2 bins indoors right now and because they are small they both fit on a shelf in my laundry room. Smaller bins means worms are closer together for faster breeding and composting. If I was doing one outside I would make it larger horizontally, not deeper, much like a trough style.

I use a bedding of about 1/3 shredded paper & cardboard and 2/3 leaf litter. I agree with the leaf stems being bulky. What I do is run the leaves through my mulcher, then screen or hand pick the stems out after that. It helps break down the leaves for faster decomposition as well as make the stems easy to toss. When feeding the worms I might pick out a few stems left behind if I see them.

I believe in bedding and feeding diversity so I like to provide a bit of everything. I run euros with my reds for casting diversity as well. Because I'm running tubs I feel the euros also help in aeration.

My initial bedding for a new 10gal tub is "super charged" because I want the best castings I can make. It also helps kick off the tub. The components are:

1 layer of wet brown paper bag
1 small spade full local soil
1 cup coco fiber

*Mix soil and coco. Spread across paper. Add 1/3 shredded paper and cardboard to 2/3 mulched leaf litter and mix. This layer should be about 6 inches thick.*

In a cup I add:
1 tablespoon shrimp meal
1 tablespoon neem meal
2 tablespoons alfalfa meal
2 tablespoons kelp meal
2 tablespoons ground egg shells
1 tablespoon fish bone meal
1 tablespoon azomite

1 teaspoon langbeinite
1 teaspoon root webstar

*Mix ingredients in cup. Spread evenly over leaf litter and mix. On one side of the bin add half cup of chopped and frozen food scraps and cover with bedding. I then add 1 ounce of Soil ProVide to about half a cup of molasses water and sprinkle over the bedding. Leave for a week before adding worms*

The root webstar and soil ProVide might be overkill, but I have them laying around and because I don't currently have compost, figure it is a great way to kick off the microbes of a new environment. Once my compost is ready it will also be added as food. The soil ProVide is an agricultural soil amendment made here in Oregon loaded with microorganisms. I used it outdoors here this season and recommend it if growing organically. Consider it close to photosynthesis plus-o (microbe life) but I like it better because you can buy it in up to 5gal. Great if you aren't running teas or in addition to them.

My egg shells are from cage free chickens. They are ground in my mortar and pestle for easier digestion and so I don't have chunks of shell in my end castings. Fish bone meal is one not many people use but I add a small amount for calcium source diversity and trace sea elements. Same with the the shrimp meal, however I liked it more for the chitin. Because some of the ammendments are high nitrogen it's is important to let the tub sit for a week without worms so they don't get too hot. Some of the ammendments are also fed to my plants in the soil, but starting out with a little bit consumed in the vermicompost helps bring those nutrients to a use able level right away.

In time I would like to feed the worms with compost as well. It would be mostly tree leaves, marijuana leaves, and alfalfa. I want to grow comfrey and a few others to add as well. Might go to the forest and collect some leaf litter for diversity. Being that I live in Oregon, I was thinking my next trip to the coast I might collect some washed up seaweed. Take it home, rinse the salt, and add to the compost bin. Has anyone ever composted seaweed?

-stay lifted.
 

MazeWL

New member
Bin with no juice!

Bin with no juice!

Hello! I have started a worm bin mostly to reduce the quantity of trash I produce. I customized some Rubbermaid boxes to allow good aeration and run offs to be collected in another bin in the bottom. I have prepared 2 additional levels but I only have one in use for now. It is about 2 months old. I got the wormies from a friend who gave me the whole content of one of her worm composter. So I had good activity going on in it since day 1.
My one question is: is it ok to have almost no leachate. A few drops in the bottom compartment that get covered with a greyish mold. The bin is not dry, there is condensation on the lid but nothing drains out.
More questions to come.
 

surfguitar

Member
Hello! I have started a worm bin mostly to reduce the quantity of trash I produce. I customized some Rubbermaid boxes to allow good aeration and run offs to be collected in another bin in the bottom. I have prepared 2 additional levels but I only have one in use for now. It is about 2 months old. I got the wormies from a friend who gave me the whole content of one of her worm composter. So I had good activity going on in it since day 1.
My one question is: is it ok to have almost no leachate. A few drops in the bottom compartment that get covered with a greyish mold. The bin is not dry, there is condensation on the lid but nothing drains out.
More questions to come.

You don't want leachate tbh, that means your bin is to wet. As long as medium is moist you are fine.
 

Iamnumber

Active member
infestation on my vermicompost.

infestation on my vermicompost.

Hi,

New to vermicomposting. I have an infestation of undesirable critters in my compost. some sort of gnats and I guess some sort of aphid (really small - barely can see with naked eye).

What is the best way/ what options do I have to get rid of these without killing my worms?

Ideally I would like to know how to clear my bin from these and what would be best practical way to keep this from happening again?

Tried to move worms to 'clean' soil and start anew - Failed. I tried to keep a fabric mesh on top of my compost. Perhaps I was not careful enough on moving worms, perhaps the gritters just got in later as I added waste to compost?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
sounds too wet? some neem seed meal may help control it. in time it will cycle towards balance
 

Root Boy

Member
I`ve heard that worms like some fruits more than others...

for example: they love Banana - but don`t like citrus fruits

sounds logic to me.. is this true?
 

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