Worming 101

[exploziv]

I see people recommend and use shallow bins (somewhere around 12 inch/30cm).
From what i have read, the worms will always be in the top inches of the pile.. so if I am in no rush to harvest the compost and need to save space, can I go with a taller bin and add food regularely for months, layer after layer, the just harvest the worms, move them to another bin and harvest the compost?
Can any of you explain me if this has any downsides?

thank you all for the info posted, this thread and a few others on the subject got me here where I am, in the late stage of planing.

 

[descivii]

exploziv, Plenty of people use standard sizes of Rubbermaid totes because they go on sale regularly and cheaply....I got 2 7gl for $3.49ea.


I had a bag of hamster bedding that is compostable and made of 80% recycled paper and 5% each of Lavendar buds, rose petals, mint and corn kob. I used that in a new worm bin along with some soil and dried oak and maple leaves.

Do you think that hamster bedding will be fine?, it says compostable and septic safe.

J.

 

[Stankie]

I see people recommend and use shallow bins (somewhere around 12 inch/30cm).
From what i have read, the worms will always be in the top inches of the pile.. so if I am in no rush to harvest the compost and need to save space, can I go with a taller bin and add food regularely for months, layer after layer, the just harvest the worms, move them to another bin and harvest the compost?
Can any of you explain me if this has any downsides?

thank you all for the info posted, this thread and a few others on the subject got me here where I am, in the late stage of planing.

Make a flow through/continuous flow bin.

I made one with a 32 gallon trash can and a replacement fire grate for a grill

Here is looking down my bin. I bought a replacement fire grate for a Weber BBQ, which is about 18" in diameter. Since it is to replace the lower grate you build the coals on, it is a much thicker steel then a cooking grate and happens to be of perfect dimensions. I took that over to the trash can aisle and decided which trash can it fit best into. I also bought a 2x2 redwood board and some 'sun blocker' screen, which has a very fine mesh.

To make the bin I cut the window in the bottom of the can for collecting the castings. Then cut the 2x2 board into 4 equal lengths and wired them to the trash can. Put in the grill piece. I am using the screen to cover the ventilation holes I cut in the lid.

 

[heady blunts]

stankie that is the sweetest diy composter i've seen. very cool.

 

[northstate]

Great thread and big ups to people here at iC, sharing volumes of info! Stankie that can is great and nice powell av. too !

 

[Mafutero]

I got a bin working, just add the right stuff and keep an eye.

Now, I was thinking about how to make something more consistent and here is what I came up with:

3 cement blocks
2 2x4 wood plank
20 pizza dough trail(pay a pizza driver $40 to get them for you )

The trays are stackable, the idea is to put the planks on top of the blocks and make a table for 4 DIY-Tray-O-Worm.

5 trays per tower.
1 bottom, 1 lid, 3 for the worms.

Instructions:

On the last/first of every month empty the castings on the bottom tray(the one on top of the lecheate tray) and put it on top. You get 4 trays full every month. Just empty the bottom and put on top with new food/bedding.

 

[tokatronic]

Hi! This seems to be a good idea, thanks for sharing.

Now a question: if this vermicompost is going to be used in a (as much as possible) shut eco-system, how should the vermicompost be treated before it is used for the cannabis plants?

It seems the vermicompost would be to strong, even mixed with the old, already used soil. But I would prefer not having to bring more garden soil in to the grow room.

 

[OsWiZzLe]

Earthwrom Jim?

 

[tokatronic]

What is that?

I was thinking it could be planted with some sort of vegetable, but what would that be? Carrots?

 

[exploziv]

are you thinking about removing some of the N for a better NPK ratio?
you know, you can always play with the npk ratio by using what you need more in the worm food.
I don't think can be too strong, as you always can put a smaller quantity.

 

[tokatronic]

I don't know exactly what I'm thinking. Somwhere in the lines of not wanting to buy more soil, just use whatever is there, and spice it up between the grows with vermicast. Has anyone here done that?

 

[Clackamas Coot]

I don't know exactly what I'm thinking. Somwhere in the lines of not wanting to buy more soil, just use whatever is there, and spice it up between the grows with vermicast. Has anyone here done that?

Adding an equal amount of castings and pumice is a starting point and probably one that many of the organic growers use.

My 'recipe' such as it is uses 50% 'recycled soil' and 25% each of EWC and pumice. Something like that. And then some seed meal (alfalfa, flaxseed, etc.), fish meal and fish bone meal, kelp meal and some rock dusts.

HTH

CC

 

[tokatronic]

Thanks, I still have a lot of time to read up on this, as my wife don't allow me to grow marijuana, and even less wants worms indoors. I've saved your post for future use.

 

[tokatronic]

Do anyone know if used carbon can be but into the worm bin?

 

[Rednick]

Activated carbon is absorbing shit, and I don't know what it is absorbing is what you want in your bin.
Water Filter = Posibly unwanted metals.
Air = possible unwanted contaminants

No real nutritional value that I see with carbon for the worms.

 

[exploziv]

""First-aid measures Eyes Activated carbon in the eyes may cause irritation and reddening. Rinse immediately with plenty of water for several minutes. Repeat if necessary to remove the particle from the eye. If the irritation continues, consult a doctor.
Skin No adsorption through the skin. Prolonged exposure may cause dry or cracked skin. Wash with water and soap.
Inhalation No toxic effect. Like with other substances, excessive exposure is to be avoided. Provide ventilation or move to fresh air.
Ingestion No negative effects unless the ingested quantity causes physical discomfort.

Reactivity
Stable under normal temperature and pressure. No hazardous polymerisation. Avoid contact with strongly oxidising substances such as ozone, liquid oxygen, perchloric acid, permanganate and table salt.

Storage, treatment, use and removal Manipulation Keep dry. Avoid dust.
Take care: wet activated carbon takes oxygen from the air. This may cause hazards for workers in containers or enclosed areas. Before entering such areas: take samples and define procedures for working in environments with low oxygen concentrations in accordance with local regulations.
Storage Store indoors in a cool, dry, ventilated area. No smoking. Protect against physical damage. Keep away from ignition sources, strongly oxidising substances, frost and solvent vapours.
Spillage Vacuum and/or wet clean (water and detergent). Limit dust. Remove in suitable containers.
Removal Reactivation, incineration or dumping pursuant to the local regulations.

Personal protection Respiratory equipment Approved dust masks are recommended. Provide exhaust to reduce dust.
Protective clothes Wear protective gloves and body-covering clothes to avoid skin contact.
Eye protection Wear safety goggles with side shields. Provide possibility to rinse eyes.

Transport
Activated carbon is tested according to the UN protocol on the Transport of Hazardous Goods for spontaneously flammable materials. The product does not formally meet the definition of self-heating material or of other hazards. Activated carbon is not one of the hazardous goods and is not regulated.

Additional information Toxicological information No toxicological data available. Classified as non-hazardous.
Ecological information No data available. Not harmful to the environment.
Regulatory information Classification: Non-hazardous
HMIS ratings Health: 0 - Inflammability 0 – Reactivity: 0""

Do anyone know if used carbon can be but into the worm bin?

I'd say hell no!

 

[Stankie]

...

 

[greenmatter]

been doing the worm bin thing for about a year now and wish i would have started way sooner. i could have put a huge stack of junk mail to good use. anyway there are a few things that i have seen that have me thinking. when i put crushed egg shells in the bin it seems to me the worms are after the egg whites more than they are the shells. i pushed an un-broken shell into the bedding and left it about half full of whites, the little buggers went insane. finished it in a day. when i put shrimp waste in they go after the flesh fast and then leave the shells to soften up before they eat those. do worms love protein? and would more animal protein in the bin be a good thing? not talking about tossing a dead horse in my bin, more asking if protein (or different proteins) would lead to more and diverse aminoes. sounds kinda off the wall to me too, if this is to insane could you tell me in way that makes me understand where i went off the deep end. PEACE

 

[greenmatter]

can you store home made castings? the lower two bins on my worm factory are finished and i was wondering if it is possible to store short term so i can get fresh going or will this damage the castings? not above buying a couple more bins to get me through the winter, i know in spring to many castings never happens. i would love to hear what the microscopes have to say. PEACE

 

[mad librettist]

A good portion of my EWC is always fed back to the bin.