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Why are my plants dying?

G

Guest

LAWHATTT:

Did you germinate your seeds in the moonshine mix?

I germinated in Fox Farm Ocean Forest before and it is too strong for young plants. They need to be established before being put into that strong of a soil. I'd say 2 to 4 weeks old.

My plants reacted the same way you describe, stunted slow growth, except I killed mine when they were much smaller than yours.

What I suggest is germinating in a small container for 2 weeks and then transplanting to a stronger soil.


Also, if I were you I'd just use fox farm ocean forest straight out of the bag, maybe add a little perlite but that's it... don't add ferts or lime or anything. It's already got a lot of ferts in it, and it's ph balanced at 6.8 and stays that way for a few months unless you poor really acidic or alkaline shit into it.


As for ferts if you want organic look into the earth juice line... im testing it right now, im still a noob learning... you have to bubble earth juice for 24 hours because at first its really acidic, but its 100% organic. I can help you more with it if you want, i dont know much but i can get ya started in the right direction

All ya need is earth juice grow, bloom, and some molasses.
I am also choosing to add in botanicare liquid karma, earth juice meta k, budswell, epsom salts, and possibly some benecial microorganisms like hydroguard or subculture.

I believe bubbling the earth juice is needed because when you add it to water it makes the pH 4.5... but after bubbling its supposed to be normal 6 to 7 pH. I cant confirm this, Im actually in the middle of bubbling earth juice for my first time, testing it, so far it seems to be true, bubbling restores the pH to normal.
--But anyways all you do to bubble is get a cheap air pump for $10, and a air stone for $3, and some tubing for it... then put the air stone in a gallon jug of water with some earth juice grow, and molasses, then bubble for 24 hours. This is called making a organic tea. It stimulates the microorganisms in the nutrients, the molasses is carbs which feeds the microorganisms and makes them living, so when you water you water with living microorganisms which is good for your roots... its the reason people do organic gardening... the microorganisms in the soil make organics look taste and smell better. I think atleast... thats wut they say :)


Hope i helped brotha :joint:
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
Whoa, lotsa ???s! :D

Sativa, exactly, the lower your nute ph, the lower your soil comes down. You want to do this gradually as plants do not like big ph swings all at once.

Adjust some plain water to neutral ph7. Flush a pot or pots, save the runoff and measure. This will tell you where your soil ph is at. Now you can calculate how low (or high) to bring your nutes to balance your soil to 6.6ish. If your soil is 7.4, you need to bring your nutes to 6 to balance at 6.7. Understand? There are 7 ph points between 6.7 and 7.4 and the same between 6.0 and 6.7. Balance. This all depends on your natural soil ph. Lower is better than higher.

"Buffering" is the action of lime in stabilizing ph. Actually, because it is high, it counteracts the acidic ferts like guanos, fishmeals and such as well as acidic peat moss. If your ferts or soil aren't very acidic then the lime could raise the ph to much, resulting in a lot of ph down to counteract. I use coco and it is close to neutral, so I need less lime (or none) compared to if I used peat moss in my soil. I like lime cuz it provides cal and mag.

That AN ph down is phosphoric acid, pretty strong stuff. This will also feed P for blooming. I don't consider this organic, but it is not a chem either. I use fulvic acid for down, not quite as strong, but loaded with natural stimulants and growth enhancers that go way beyond just adjusting ph. Fulvic Acid improves the plants ability to utilize existing ferts. This means bigger buds.

That mottling is most likely beginning of cal def from lockout. Fix your ph and that should be fine. If ph is good and there are still spots getting worse than you are not feeding enough calcium.

I use the BioBizz line of organics, derived from molasses, and not as acidic as PowerBlendPro or some of the others. Not sure about EJ. I love it.

Biobizz dry premix in the cocosoil with perlite, worm casting, kelp and lime. Biobizz Grow, Bloom and TopMax, along with CalMax and Fulvic as ph down. I have buds the size of porn star cock and still 4-6 weeks to go! I think I will ditch the perlite next run. Coco is supposed to be so good at aeration, it doesn't need it and it's one less raised eyebrow at the Home Depot carrying 4 or more bags of the stuff. Less is more.
 
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That's good pete, pot!
Wow! thanks so much.
Very grateful for your time.
Tried to PM my thanks but of course board policy
dictates I should clutter the thread with my gratitude.

Cheers!
 
G

Guest

Im not sure I agree with all the posts here....

but I think I can help you a little......

Your plants would do better by watering from the bottom......

Put one in a saucer and allow the plant to take up as much water as it wants.....


This will tell you how heavy the container should be when fully watered.....

then let it dry out..... almost to the point of drooping..... cups you can water when the top of the soil gets dry the whole cup does not need to be bone dry.... this could be your problem with yellowing.....

Yellowing can come from poor watering..... lack of water....

Having done sick plants a plenty on og.... Ive found the most important thing for success in someone with limited experience is to find a nice one bottle fert.....

something like pure blend if you want to get fancy get some liquid karma....

discard the idea of needing a certain type of heavily ferted soil....

get a bottle of grow... a bottle of flower some liquid karma and follow the lead of dozens here who use the stuff......

FYI... I use mg organic soil.... perlite ....dolomitic lime....

pbp grow, veg and liquid karma....

I feed at every water....

beautiful plants... and soooo easy.....
 
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