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When do you P/K boost?

I Care

Well-known member
Okay so I don’t know what stage of flower I’m in to tell ya the truth.
Neglected to cover blue led on dehumidifier, didn’t know how bright that thing was until I opened the tent with all the lights off outside of the lighthouse and it illuminate the entire room.

Want to know; when are the other soil grow heads doing chelated P/K booster feeds?
 

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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Okay so I don’t know what stage of flower I’m in to tell ya the truth.
Neglected to cover blue led on dehumidifier, didn’t know how bright that thing was until I opened the tent with all the lights off outside of the lighthouse and it illuminate the entire room.

Want to know; when are the other soil grow heads doing chelated P/K booster feeds?
I would dim the lights and use a low ppm complete fertilizer for now.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
Okay so I don’t know what stage of flower I’m in to tell ya the truth.
Neglected to cover blue led on dehumidifier, didn’t know how bright that thing was until I opened the tent with all the lights off outside of the lighthouse and it illuminate the entire room.

Want to know; when are the other soil grow heads doing chelated P/K booster feeds?

Your unhealthy leaf issues is why you should never P/K boost. That's another forum myth hefted on to the newbie community by the cannabis specific foods industry whose main goal is to make a buck.

It's leaves (and hormones thereof) that produce bud, not some silly P/K "boost" food. You boosted alright - premature leaf necrosis.

Witness my use of balanced NPK foods from start to finish. It's only natural. ;)

TrainXSweettooth42DaysFlowerC1_15_04.jpg


TrainXSweet64DaysFlowerMacroB2_7_04.jpg


UB
 
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I Care

Well-known member
I would dim the lights and use a low ppm complete fertilizer for now.
Thanks, I just tried to do calculations to prove I’m doing good.
Nope 👎🏻 3350ppm also I bumped to 750w from 600w because of fusarium.

Will dial it back and recalculate for watering at dawn.
 
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I Care

Well-known member
@Creeperpark
Actually, I have no idea what I’m doing. Also this may not be reliable.
698ppm?

This is just the average adding together all that I fed it last night.
IMG_0765.png
 

I Care

Well-known member
I just did about a half hour of reading 6 bottles for guaranteed analysis, logging it all on graph papers, developing a formula. I fed at 1328ppm

@revegeta666 and @William76 thank you for being the ones to accurately answer my question
@Creeperpark you gave sound advice going to try to aim to cut it all in half
@Old Uncle Ben i read what you're saying about the nitrogen and saw what you use and what you do, so I will make a some adjustments, I’m from a place where all the old heads are salty and #1 for indoor at one point. So I respect your attitude and learned a lot from reading what you've had to share for your efforts and big grows. if I could afford to get out to Oklahoma, I would do things exactly how you like to do them

Thanks again, hope to have a nice dark green canopy in a couple weeks
 

Ca++

Well-known member
They look about 10-12 days.

There is nothing wrong with P&K combined in a bottle. That doesn't mean you need it though.
Tissue samples show us that P&K levels in the tissue rise through flower, with the 2-3 week mark being the turning point from grow like accumulation, to bloom like.
This can mean your N requirement stays altered little, compared to the increase in PK. So you could use a PK boost, to alter your feed profile.

I have no idea what your feed profile is. However, when people ask about using PK, the best advice is always not to use it. I personally save it for the plants that ask, or when I'm turning a grow feed into a high N flower feed. These are topics for later though. For now, you probably just want two feeds. Grow and Bloom. Even that is advanced by some standards. It will certainly produce a killer diary, if then basic feeds are any good for your grow. Which they should be.
 

exoticrobotic

Well-known member
Want to know; when are the other soil grow heads doing chelated P/K booster feeds?
If you want to try PK boosters you can add them for a week, 3 weeks before harvest.

For most strains that means feeding them at flowering wk 5 or 6

Your unhealthy leaf issues is why you should never P/K boost. That's another forum myth hefted on to the newbie community by the cannabis specific foods industry who's main goal is to make a buck.

I always use it and feel i get a much better yield with it. I really notice an increased rate of calyx/pistil formation a week after use. Aren't P and K primary required nutrients essential in flowering?

More of a forum myth is calmag surely :LOL:
 

I Care

Well-known member
Cool beans, I ended up reading some blog that didn’t have anything for sale. It gave me the go ahead to give the booster last night.

I know why math teachers hated when you don’t show all of your work, I skipped around in my head and can’t see where I did what.

NPK blended out as if it’s N2.1-p3.1-k4.1 at 5ml per liter (4tsp a gallon)
Micros spread out over 7liters gets confusing but that’s what brings me up high on the PPMs.

I started FF Grow Big and BioThrive Bloom comes to 8-8-8 at 2.5ml per liter (2tsp/gal) 2weeks prior to 12/12. All along I have been adding minute amounts of CalMag. I swept the floor layed down a clean towel turned the plant on its side, loosened the root ball, and put it back in the same 2100c on top of more soil with about an inch of fresh soil around the root ball after loosening it up. And about 4 inches of fresh soil under the root ball. Watered it back in with the same nutrient mix. Applied the SCROG trellis netting. Let it pop back up through the next 24h with the HPS, Got my timer and she saw night for the first time 14 days ago. Next watering was only 5ml Molasses/5ml Grapefruit Juice a gallon, with a final heavy watering that ran off into the dish, and it was drinking fast!! I did 10ml/gallon BioThrive 2-4-4 minute (2-3ml/gal)CalMag and Minute 2-3ml/gal FF CN Pt3 here and there for the next two weeks. Now we come to two nights ago with the blend I’ve listed above this paragraph and overnight wetting with hydrogen peroxide.

I have decided to use a smaller about of BioThrive for water I prepared for dawn. Everything else the same I’m not boosting as much as supplementing. The total comes out as if I’m watering NPK 1.9-2.6-3. At 2.5ml/l or 2tsp/gal.

It’s a wild mix but I want the supplemental nutes in the soil early because I plan to start drawing them out early. I really want it all fed by the end of week 6 to start the flush. I’m going to cut stuff to puff day by day 55 and let it mature from there.

Would be just Canna Veg, BioCanna Flores and PK13/14 if I found it local. That’s what we used to use for good flavor.

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Ca++

Well-known member
You are not feeding a huge amount.
I'm going to presume this 1.9-2.6-3 is P&K as there oxide value. Elementally, 1.9-1.1-2.5 and used 2.5ml/l that's 47N 28P 63K
I wouldn't expect P or K to be deficient, before N. So it's unlikely I would think about PK. Which will just depress N further.
Plants look at N to get an idea of where they are heading. It's an important part of crop steering. I can't judge your composts input, or even say what compost it is. I do know I was putting 200ppm N into my last compost run though. However your feed profile would give far too much P, with good N and K numbers. 30ppm P has been said to be enough, so adding more is starting to get frowned upon.

Looking at this feed level, and your plant pic in the first post, I would be bumping up this base feed, not just the PK. Though I would be interested to see the bottles advice, as you don't seem entirely sure about your maths. The bottle would be nice confirmation, if it's talking double
 

I Care

Well-known member
NPK 1.9-2.6-3. At 2.5ml/l or 2tsp/gal.
👆👆👆 (Were the numbers)


I just brought N and P up a bit to 2.2-2.4-3.3 by the bottle now at 6ml a liter. I’m going to cut it in half again and feed her before she starts begging for it. I didn’t realize you were saying I’m good and don’t boost, I thought you were saying that I need to reduve the Phosphate so I did so by raising nitrogen and potassium. Going to reverse your calculations now and see where I’m at.
 
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William76

Well-known member
U feed pk,when ur plants flowers start to stack,usualy when they start to spiral round the stem(about 5 weeks on a nine week strain),if u apply ur pk at the wrong time it doesn't do much but once u get the feel for it and learn when to apply it at the right time u will see the difference.the plants take off like rockets and stack good.to soon or to late with the pk tho and it does nothing much.like most things it's a learning curve.76
 

I Care

Well-known member
So 2.2N. 2.4P. 3.3K.
x1.0 x0.42 x0.83

That’s 2.2-1.0-2.73

At 3ml a liter ppms are 66N 30P 82K

Good… ?

Then I’ve got 42ppm Ca and 10ppm Mg
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
I have a 2100c pot
I boosted yesterday
I was using nitrogen rich foods until 2 weeks ago.

By N rich foods, what NPK are you talking about? What product?

I read my plants, during my last garden I added a high N food late into flowering because I didn't like the yellowish tone of my leaves.

This Peters fertilizer is rich in micros too which alleviates any micro deficiencies. I bought a 25# bag back in 2017, still using it around the farm.

This note is straight from my journal:

Jan. 31 – Soaking 2 Canna. Choc. Chunk. Sprayed Lapis Mtn. indica with bifenthrin, soaked pot with Peters 25-5-15, 1 tsp./gal. Set lamp to 75%.

The bifenthrin was for mite control in case you're wondering. Yes, it worked.

Uncle Ben
 
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Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
U feed pk,when ur plants flowers start to stack,usualy.....

Never have, never will. Looks like they got to you too. :)

Here is one of the original, real C99 I bought from The Brothers Grimm back in 2001. Note - this isn't your usual forum posted top 4" of bud folks post around here to look kewl. :) That's about 13" or so of a fat main cola. Flowering plants in the background are nice and green.

C99@6.5wks-2_18.jpg


You guys tend to over think this food thingie making it so confusing, resulting in subpar results. You might fail due to nutrient antagonism issues while blaming your problems on lame stuff like pH imbalances, lack of Mg, Ca, etc. Cannabis is quite pH tolerant when it comes to processing salts via the roots. I never worry about it. I throw together a bulk load of soil with whatever I have stockpiled which might include washed coarse sand piled outdoors.

Just telling it like it is based on over 20 years of observations and postings.

Uncle Ben
 
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