When do you apply your ferts? Weekly or every-time-you-water?

[ISM2]

Soil: (60%) Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care Organic Garden Soil, (40%) Miracle-Gro Perlite
Flowering nutrients: Miracle Gro Bloom Booster - 15-30-15

I use 1/8tsp per gallon of water and use this every time I water up until harvest.
I've had good results doing it this way but wanted to discuss pros/cons, and if maybe I should increase the amount over time as the plants get further into flowering.

 

[Hank Hemp]

Ferting every time is to much. Why change if everything is going good. Leave well enough alone. Do you like the taste of the MG ferts? Most don't. You use organic soil then use chemical ferts. Why not organic ferts?

 

[vostok]

Hank nailed it, if in doubt add a little pee? to a spray bottle and foilar feed every ti
me you doubt yourself, as you can't overfeed with foilar, avoid spraying under the leaves for fear of clogging the stomata

 

[Dave Coulier]

Soil: (60%) Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care Organic Garden Soil, (40%) Miracle-Gro Perlite
Flowering nutrients: Miracle Gro Bloom Booster - 15-30-15

I use 1/8tsp per gallon of water and use this every time I water up until harvest.
I've had good results doing it this way but wanted to discuss pros/cons, and if maybe I should increase the amount over time as the plants get further into flowering.

ISM2, fertilizing with each watering is called fertigation, and its a common practice in the horticulture industry. Maintaining consistent EC levels within the media will provide you with faster growing plants than plants that experience flucuations in EC levels.

One must be careful though. You can fertigate at each watering, but leaching may be required if feeding at a high enough rate that salt buildup can occur. I prefer feeding at a lower constant rate that doesn't require any leaching at all. You must monitor EC levels within the soil solution to be sure you're not over-feeding though.

But at the very low feed rate you're using, you have no worries about flushing or over doing it. Is that really teaspoon?

 

[aridbud]

Ferting every time is to much. Why change if everything is going good. Leave well enough alone. Do you like the taste of the MG ferts? Most don't. You use organic soil then use chemical ferts. Why not organic ferts?

Totally agree with ya, HHemp!! No matter how much flushing you do....there's still that metal Monsanto taste to it, lingering on your tongue...naaasty.

Better to DIY (easy 3-5 ingredients), or spend good money on better premade soil that only needs light amendment, early-mid bloom.

 

[aridbud]

I prefer feeding at a lower constant rate that doesn't require any leaching at all. You must monitor EC levels within the soil solution to be sure you're not over-feeding though.

Exactly....it's not rocket science. Half strength every few waterings, check pH, quality water inbetween, watering only the last few weeks.

 

[Just_Grow]

Im new here to this site. but have grown a couple crops for couple years. i learned right away that in my definition of everything MG is like Fast Food to humans will do the job but not healthy. and the way i fertilize is i feed two waters then flush two waters. i know i may not be exact way but it has worked for me.. no salt build up or anything.

 

[Just_Grow]

also i forgot to mention i always do half the dose the bottle calls for. and keep checking ph and ppm

 

[Budley Doright]

Im a label guy..

And the label for the 15-30-15....

first of all the nitrogen source is urea..... bad idea for what you are doing.....

For multiple reasons.....

The urea takes some time to break down ....and become available to the plants.....

YOu cant easily control Nitrogen to the plant.......

Your fert also isnt a complete fert..... it lacks a very important element..... magnesium


at the very least you should add a bit of epsoms salt....


I also like to fertigate the same amount every feeding....however I make sure the fertilizer is...

1. a complete fert

2. as a nitrogen source it contains at least 95% nitrate N....... nitrate is immediately available to the plant....


I dont know how long you have been using this fert but IMO you should find something more suitable.....

Nitrogen that comes from urea .....is so you dont have to fertilize frequently..... Think time release N.....,.

Its more likely a disaster in the making than a long term success......


Im not really in the Im in the miracle grow tastes bad clan...... im in the .....you dont use urea based ferts indoors...clan ....

 

[ISM2]

You must monitor EC levels within the soil solution to be sure you're not over-feeding though.

But at the very low feed rate you're using, you have no worries about flushing or over doing it. Is that really teaspoon?

Dave, thanks for the info on fertigation.
What is the best way to monitor EC levels in soil?

Yes, I use 1/8 tsp per gallon of water at every watering during the veg and flower stage...adjusting according to the requirements of the strain. I'm still trying to find the "sweet spot" with this AK47 x Blueberry.

 

[Swollencalyx]

ISM2, fertilizing with each watering is called fertigation, and its a common practice in the horticulture industry. Maintaining consistent EC levels within the media will provide you with faster growing plants than plants that experience flucuations in EC levels./QUOTE]
Fertigation is more of a foliar feeding. We use this method in the grass seed industry. Think dripping nutrients into the irrigation line while irrigating.
I like feeding around 200-500ppm nutrient solution up until flush. I dont see a salt ring on my pots, like I use to. And probably could get away with not even flushing the last few. Low and slow really.

 

[ISM2]

Im a label guy..
I also like to fertigate the same amount every feeding....however I make sure the fertilizer is...
1. a complete fert
2. as a nitrogen source it contains at least 95% nitrate N....... nitrate is immediately available to the plant....

Do you have a recommendation of ferts suitable for fertigation of MJ?
Is my soil mixture ok?

 

[DrFever]

I would look into possibly going to 4-5 day feeding schedule day 1 feed half volume of container size at 1/4 strength
day 2 foiler feed lights off with a 2- 0-0-
Day 3 Water 1/4 volume of container
day 5 feed and so on Depending on wattage and temps of room being used adjust accordingly some water in soil will be lost i say just do the finger dip in soil to see how wet or dry soil becomes once you find the happy medium plants will thrive

 

[EclipseFour20]

IMHO, if your soil is charged with organic inputs--then expect about 60-70 days before the "NPK nutes" are consumed, so augmenting the soil with teas and water solubles is almost mandatory--but not every week.

That said, your feedings should include minerals, enzymes, vitamins, bacteria, carbohydrates, etc on a regular basis (every 7, 10, 14, or 21 days...depending on your "situation"--and "this" should be your application frequency--not every week or every "feeding/watering").

Watering between feedings is something that is "good"--good for the plant, good for the soil, good for the rhizosphere, etc. So...don't be afraid to use "plain water".

Feeding the plant before harvest sounds cool but, IMHO is a waste of time & money. What exactly does the plant need during the last 2 weeks? Those needs (prior to harvest)...are not the same needs the plant requires while in the vegetative state...much yet while in "pre-flower" and "flowering" stages. Put differently, investigate the time it takes for a given input to metabolize its way into the plant's tissue--the answer might surprise you. Why add something a week before harvest if it takes 2-3 weeks to metabolize?

 

[TedNugget]

Im a label guy..

And the label for the 15-30-15....

first of all the nitrogen source is urea..... bad idea for what you are doing.....

For multiple reasons.....

The urea takes some time to break down ....and become available to the plants.....

YOu cant easily control Nitrogen to the plant.......

Your fert also isnt a complete fert..... it lacks a very important element..... magnesium


at the very least you should add a bit of epsoms salt....


I also like to fertigate the same amount every feeding....however I make sure the fertilizer is...

1. a complete fert

2. as a nitrogen source it contains at least 95% nitrate N....... nitrate is immediately available to the plant....


I dont know how long you have been using this fert but IMO you should find something more suitable.....

Nitrogen that comes from urea .....is so you dont have to fertilize frequently..... Think time release N.....,.

Its more likely a disaster in the making than a long term success......


Im not really in the Im in the miracle grow tastes bad clan...... im in the .....you dont use urea based ferts indoors...clan ....

I thought urea nitrogen was a fast release form of nitrogen. I thought that only when it was coated -sulfer/polymer etc - was it slow release...? Maybe I am confused here, I don't know. lol

 

[TedNugget]

ISM2 - is there a reason you are using miracle grow, as opposed to something like that "Lucas" formula? I'd recommend getting yourself a better nutrient. Check out that Lucas formula. Very very simple to use. It calls for General Hydroponics brand liquid or dry nutrients. I'd also recommend getting out of the miracle grow soil and getting something from the grow shop or online. You are consuming the end product, you want it as clean and safe as possible.
Here is a link to that Lucas formula - http://lucasformula.com/
You can also find lots of info on it here on this site too.

 

[DrFever]

IMHO, if your soil is charged with organic inputs--then expect about 60-70 days before the "NPK nutes" are consumed, so augmenting the soil with teas and water solubles is almost mandatory--but not every week.

That said, your feedings should include minerals, enzymes, vitamins, bacteria, carbohydrates, etc on a regular basis (every 7, 10, 14, or 21 days...depending on your "situation"--and "this" should be your application frequency--not every week or every "feeding/watering").

Watering between feedings is something that is "good"--good for the plant, good for the soil, good for the rhizosphere, etc. So...don't be afraid to use "plain water".

Feeding the plant before harvest sounds cool but, IMHO is a waste of time & money. What exactly does the plant need during the last 2 weeks? Those needs (prior to harvest)...are not the same needs the plant requires while in the vegetative state...much yet while in "pre-flower" and "flowering" stages. Put differently, investigate the time it takes for a given input to metabolize its way into the plant's tissue--the answer might surprise you. Why add something a week before harvest if it takes 2-3 weeks to metabolize?

Actually i think many are mislead into believing that having organic inputs as you say it that its good for 60 - 120 days or what ever...
what many tend to forget is that organic matter needs to be broken down before plants can uptake any nutrients and that is why many see def early adding teas combats this
Also strain dependent on how much the plant needs some need lots other strain needs less,
Enviroment tends to be the leading factor on plant uptake period no different then a car doing 50 mph or a car doing 100 mph fuel well get consumed faster
Same goes for a plant
plants hold over 80 percent water in it so its wise to use just water every second feeding like i mentioned above what works well for me specially growing in 30 gallon plus totes so one has to keep that in mind if you use c02 then food uptake will be double
if room runs hotter more water is used up
humidity is one of the most important factors in plant up take of nutrients and this is why so many stress on room dialing
You mention that feeding last 2 weeks before harvest in your opinion is a waste, plants need nutrients in all stages including Nitrogen the last 2 weeks are literally the most crucial part of plants life that is when plant is packing on the weight in the buds
so to think starving the plant last 2 weeks is good think again you mentioning immobilizing ch elated nutrients are just that plants can uptake it immediately and this is why plants grow extremely fast in hydro compared to the slow growth rated in organic grown mediums
My soil i make is in the organic based used early in clone stage but use chemical nutes from week 1 forward with astonishing growth rates and using 4 day cycle with feeding day 1
foiler feed day 2 water day 3 feed day 4 and so on
here a picture day 30 veg from a 3' clone another 2 - 3 weeks more veg giving me 13 - 17 oz dry plant thats what i am talking about

 

[stoned-trout]

I fert almost every time ...I gen end up using the rates recommended for foliar...I started doing this long ago when I had lots of diff crops/grows and lacked proper record keeping...works fine no issues....and I can be as stoned as I want ....yeehaw

 

[EclipseFour20]

Dr Fever,

IMHO...fertility is not a "zero sum game". Meaning if I don't feed the soil during the last two weeks, then "zero nutrients" are available to the plant. Rather I work on the principle that it takes TIME for nutrients to break down (which you pointed out)--and if it takes 10-14 days for the input to metabolize (become plant available) and I am 2 weeks or less from harvest...then including that particular input during the last 2 weeks is a waste of time/money.

Like I said...

...Why add something a week before harvest if it takes 2-3 weeks to metabolize?

Of course the exception to the rule is water solubles...as many breakdown within a day or so (which I use sparingly)--but unlike you...synthetics/chems are not my plant's "meat and potatoes"--rather it is a collection of organic inputs.

To be clear, my plants are certainly hydrated during the last few weeks--but I do not feed any NPK ferts or minerals (especially silica).

Also...certain organic inputs require Nitrogen to breakdown (kelp & alfalfa meal are good examples), so adding certain organic inputs during the flower cycle can actually "deplete" nitrogen from the soil.

Nothing is more disheartening than to "think you are doing good...when in actuality you are causing harm".

 

[DrFever]

Dr Fever,

IMHO...fertility is not a "zero sum game". Meaning if I don't feed the soil during the last two weeks, then "zero nutrients" are available to the plant. Rather I work on the principle that it takes TIME for nutrients to break down (which you pointed out)--and if it takes 10-14 days for the input to metabolize (become plant available) and I am 2 weeks or less from harvest...then including that particular input during the last 2 weeks is a waste of time/money.

Like I said...


Of course the exception to the rule is water solubles...as many breakdown within a day or so (which I use sparingly)--but unlike you...synthetics/chems are not my plant's "meat and potatoes"--rather it is a collection of organic inputs.

To be clear, my plants are certainly hydrated during the last few weeks--but I do not feed any NPK ferts or minerals (especially silica).

Also...certain organic inputs require Nitrogen to breakdown (kelp & alfalfa meal are good examples), so adding certain organic inputs during the flower cycle can actually "deplete" nitrogen from the soil.

Nothing is more disheartening than to "think you are doing good...when in actuality you are causing harm".

you mention zero sum game now of course your not going to expect by adding organic compounds last 2 weeks is going to make a difference and your correct but its become the Norm scientifically speaking aerated teas offer greater immediate benefits than classic compost, manure, so in other words your plants will absorb this stuff now no need to break down nothing lt alone the extra micro herd will help get rid of toxins and other pathogens in your soil
Problem with organic grown products is there full of shit most of the time