What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

What's wrong

Redblueblur993

Active member
I tried using Lost Coast plant therapy and it helped out a little bit I think it took away a lot of thrips I still have some I use ladybugs two weeks ago and they ate some of those bugs but I have a lot of aphids on the Apollos and very few aphids and thrips on the SBT. I got some more ladybugs to sprinkle.
Screenshot_2024-03-03-15-09-24-84_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
Screenshot_2024-03-03-15-09-39-06_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
Those plants have a lot of issues.

Like I said before - the most imporant things are the big issues, environment, water, nutrients.

- What medium and nutrients are used?
- What's the pH and EC or PPM of the nutrient used
- How often are the plants watered/fed
Yeah the plants definitely have a lot of issues and I'm trying to problem solve with the help of you guys which I really appreciate the medium that I'm using in nutrients I'm using is soil Fox farm Ocean Forest. And I started using a different kind of nutrients called element nutrients I feel like I need to get a new pH pen I'm using the Hanna brand.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
I just recently started using these cuz I saw the NPK numbers were pretty high so I figured I want to try this I was using foop nutrients but the numbers are really really low. I tried googling the PPM and EC because the pen doesn't show those names so I don't know what it is
IMG20240229130408.jpg
IMG20240229123719.jpg
IMG20240229123711.jpg

IMG20240305123948.jpg
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
Another issue I'm having is that the aphids are on the rim of the pot but the ladybugs don't climb up the rim I guess it's too slippery for them I tried spraying them with soap water and they're still around.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
I've been using this brand since I started this project last summer and it's been really good The leaves and the plant nice and green and healthy The tip of the leaves were not burnt due to New Bern but the problem I see is the numbers of the NPK is very low.
IMG20240305133000.jpg
IMG20240305133014.jpg
IMG20240305133008.jpg
IMG20240305133027.jpg
IMG20240305133038.jpg
IMG20240305133053.jpg
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
I'm looking at all the nutrients, and there is way too much stuff at very high concentrations.

If you're going the synthetic route... keep it simple. One nutrient of the NPK 5-5-5 variety as a general nutrient, a high N food (early-mid flowering), a high P food (start of flowering, seedling, to expand the root system) and a high K food (late flowering, to increase branch strength and ripeness).

- General nutrients: 5-5-5, and a EC or (water plus) 0.5 EC or 250 PPM (at the 500 scale)
Where I live, that's 1.0 EC total. And that's throughout vegging, in coco coir which otherwise has no nutrients. During vegging, the plant feeds by expanding it's root system, by finding new soil with nutrients in them.

So water thoroughly and slowly, and only water again when the soil is dry in the morning. Repeat.

Now if the soil is already fertilized, you have to reduce the nutrient concentration you give them.

What I would do, is, because it's only March:

- never look back, only forward
- rip up the entire grow
- remove any cardboard, carpets, wallpaper, ropes, cloth and anything cellulose like that and cover it with plastic or caulk
- clean the entire room and equipment with a strong bleach solution, which will kill everything.
- never look back, only forward

I don't know where the latest small plants came from.

However those look overwatered, and one has moss growing on top of it - a sign of both overwatering and a low pH.

The description of pH on the bottle is WRONG. In organics, the pH is 7.0, not 6.3. 6.0 is the low end, and also where mobile nutrients like potassium get locked out - there are a lot of wooden stems and red leaves.

Whatever the soil is, add 1 tablespoon of magnesium lime per gallon, to both raise pH and magnesium.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
Any help with these pics. One of them looks like a pH issue. I'm growing in coco 70/30. Not sure about the other's
 

Attachments

  • IMG20241010103744.jpg
    IMG20241010103744.jpg
    5.2 MB · Views: 16
  • IMG20241010103806.jpg
    IMG20241010103806.jpg
    5.1 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG20241012094837.jpg
    IMG20241012094837.jpg
    5.3 MB · Views: 20
  • IMG20241012094846.jpg
    IMG20241012094846.jpg
    4.7 MB · Views: 19
  • IMG20241012094612.jpg
    IMG20241012094612.jpg
    6.4 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG20241012094832.jpg
    IMG20241012094832.jpg
    5.5 MB · Views: 14
  • IMG20241012093628.jpg
    IMG20241012093628.jpg
    6.6 MB · Views: 16
  • IMG20241012093614.jpg
    IMG20241012093614.jpg
    6.1 MB · Views: 13

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
Any help with these pics. One of them looks like a pH issue. I'm growing in coco 70/30. Not sure about the other's
I just did a quick read through and this is what I got.

What you think are aphids I'm guessing are actually Hypoaspis Miles. A beneficial predator mite. That yellow edge burning looks like K toxicity which would make sense considering the high K levels in some of that stuff. Like that Flower Power and Grow for example.

It's really easy to grow in coco if you keep it simple.
 

kro-magnon

Well-known member
Veteran
I've been using this brand since I started this project last summer and it's been really good The leaves and the plant nice and green and healthy The tip of the leaves were not burnt due to New Bern but the problem I see is the numbers of the NPK is very low.
View attachment 18969359 View attachment 18969360 View attachment 18969361 View attachment 18969362 View attachment 18969363 View attachment 18969364
I don't know the brand of nutrients you're using but get something else quick, you're buying water at gold price with this brand, anything who has to be dosed at 1OML/L is way too much diluted.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
I just did a quick read through and this is what I got.

What you think are aphids I'm guessing are actually Hypoaspis Miles. A beneficial predator mite. That yellow edge burning looks like K toxicity which would make sense considering the high K levels in some of that stuff. Like that Flower Power and Grow for example.

It's really easy to grow in coco if you keep it simple.
I'm not using the powder anymore most of the pics were posts from months ago. But yes the numbers are low on the FOOP I've been looking around at other brands.. I just follow the chart on the bottles.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
I'm not using the powder anymore most of the pics were posts from months ago. But yes the numbers are low on the FOOP I've been looking around at other brands.. I just follow the chart on the bottles.
You're doing a Frankenstein type grow using coco with organics. If you want to make things easy, use salts with coco, or use the Foop with organic soil. I'm about to try coco with organic dry amendments just for fun but I don't expect it to go super smoothly, :)
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
You're doing a Frankenstein type grow using coco with organics. If you want to make things easy, use salts with coco, or use the Foop with organic soil. I'm about to try coco with organic dry amendments just for fun but I don't expect it to go super smoothly, :)
I was using ocean forest for years but been unhappy. I'm am making Frankenstein lol. I'm open to trying anything to see what works for me.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
This was earlier this year. Hydro with foop organic nutrients. But I know it's made for soil .
 

Attachments

  • IMG20240304093127_01.jpg
    IMG20240304093127_01.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 16
  • IMG20240304093135_01.jpg
    IMG20240304093135_01.jpg
    733.4 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG20240305121347.jpg
    IMG20240305121347.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 17
  • IMG20240305121824.jpg
    IMG20240305121824.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 18
  • IMG20240305121830.jpg
    IMG20240305121830.jpg
    3 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG20240315112742.jpg
    IMG20240315112742.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG20240315112654.jpg
    IMG20240315112654.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 16
  • Screenshot_2024-03-15-11-33-56-38_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
    Screenshot_2024-03-15-11-33-56-38_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG20240319132639.jpg
    IMG20240319132639.jpg
    4.6 MB · Views: 17

Redblueblur993

Active member
This is spreading around to the others.
 

Attachments

  • IMG20241016100830.jpg
    IMG20241016100830.jpg
    5.5 MB · Views: 16
  • IMG20241016100842.jpg
    IMG20241016100842.jpg
    5.6 MB · Views: 22
  • IMG20241016100900.jpg
    IMG20241016100900.jpg
    5.8 MB · Views: 20

Redblueblur993

Active member
Does anyone know what would cause this. They looking weak and leaf’s are burnt. The roots weren’t super big or long before transplanted. I think 3 or 4 clones have died in a week's time.
 

Attachments

  • IMG20241111100403.jpg
    IMG20241111100403.jpg
    6.8 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG20241111100356.jpg
    IMG20241111100356.jpg
    5.6 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG20241111100100.jpg
    IMG20241111100100.jpg
    6.9 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG20241111100050.jpg
    IMG20241111100050.jpg
    7.3 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG20241111100038.jpg
    IMG20241111100038.jpg
    6.1 MB · Views: 13

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Finally got ladybugs to go back two weeks for it to come in as it is a seasonal item but they will take care of the aphids there's a lot of aphids on the Apollos none on the sour Bluetooth the thrips look like they have gone away been spraying them for over 2 weeks and I haven't found one yet and hopefully not.
View attachment 18962651 View attachment 18962652 View attachment 18962653 View attachment 18962654 View attachment 18962655
If you poison your environment before releasing the ladybugs they will die after you release them. Your problem is your plants are weak and ill plants attract spider mites. If you change your growing practice you will have healthy plants and healthy plants are bug-resistant.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top