Whats my issue guys???

[cancareent]

Hey Guys, first time in coco... having some issues any help would be good.

Specs -
Strain GSC
RH- 55-65%
Temps - light temp 75-80
night temp 69-73
12 gallon pots

Let me know if further info is needed

 

[cancareent]

Anyone?

 

[shaggyballs]

Not a coco guy....
Maybe calcium def.
Cal. is touchy in coco.

Also I see lots of perlite.
Again not a coco guy but I hear you should leave it out.
I know it is too late, but maybe next time.
I wanna do coco, just have not.
Sorry I hope it helps a bit.

 

[Treetroit City]

Ph?
Lights?

 

[shaggyballs]

Oh, try a chelated calcium spray for the fix.
Don't start changing all kinds of things, it will make you go wacky chasing ghosts.

 

[shaggyballs]

Ph?
Lights?

Your in good hands now, I am bowing out.

 

[Treetroit City]

Quick guesses,
Too much light
Ph off
Overwatered being that you have small plants in giant pots. If you are needing to water more than once a week I’d be surprised

 

[Treetroit City]

Your in good hands now, I am bowing out.

You’re too kind.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Hey Guys, first time in coco... having some issues any help would be good.

Specs -
Strain GSC
RH- 55-65%
Temps - light temp 75-80
night temp 69-73
12 gallon pots

Let me know if further info is needed

Just a few first impressions.

1. I looks like combination of P deficiency/lockout and light damage from high temperatures

It looks like P, because 1) it's a mobile nutrient deficiency, the older leaves are more affected than the younger leaves, which narrows it down to NPK and Mg. It does not have the chlorosis or clawing effect of N, or the leaf edge damage of K, which leaves P and Mg. It also doesn't have the dark green or leaf thickening effect of Mg. So you're left with P. P deficiency happens when there is a low pH, at the start of flowering or even pre-flowers if using R/O water. Low pH can happen when there is a high PPM/EC or root death.

If the max room temperature is 80, then the temperature at leaf level is going to be higher than that, maybe 85, even 90. The key to that issue is to get the room temperature down.

2. Is it just coco or coco with perlite? What's the stuff on the top of the medium?

3. What nutrients and nutrient concentration and pH was used?

What is the run-off PPM/EC? That would settle whether this is a nutrient deficiency, or a nutrient lockout because of a high PPM/EC.

 

[cancareent]

Just a few first impressions.

1. I looks like combination of P deficiency/lockout and light damage from high temperatures

It looks like P, because 1) it's a mobile nutrient deficiency, the older leaves are more affected than the younger leaves, which narrows it down to NPK and Mg. It does not have the chlorosis or clawing effect of N, or the leaf edge damage of K, which leaves P and Mg. It also doesn't have the dark green or leaf thickening effect of Mg. So you're left with P. P deficiency happens when there is a low pH, at the start of flowering or even pre-flowers if using R/O water. Low pH can happen when there is a high PPM/EC or root death.

If the max room temperature is 80, then the temperature at leaf level is going to be higher than that, maybe 85, even 90. The key to that issue is to get the room temperature down.

2. Is it just coco or coco with perlite? What's the stuff on the top of the medium?

3. What nutrients and nutrient concentration and pH was used?

What is the run-off PPM/EC? That would settle whether this is a nutrient deficiency, or a nutrient lockout because of a high PPM/EC.

Mother Earth Coco with perlite - topped with Pure perlite as summer has come and I usually have a gnat problem. The perlite on top of the soil eliminates this issue for me.
I use the Dutchmaster coco line - I use their aggressive feed chart. I PH at 5.8. Have not watered to runoff as I only feed them half a gallon every week or so as of now.
I am using CMH 315 watt 2 plants per light for veg. the lights are about a foot and a half above the canopy

 

[superpedro]

Just a few first impressions.

1. I looks like combination of P deficiency/lockout and light damage from high temperatures

It looks like P, because 1) it's a mobile nutrient deficiency, the older leaves are more affected than the younger leaves, which narrows it down to NPK and Mg. It does not have the chlorosis or clawing effect of N, or the leaf edge damage of K, which leaves P and Mg. It also doesn't have the dark green or leaf thickening effect of Mg. So you're left with P. P deficiency happens when there is a low pH, at the start of flowering or even pre-flowers if using R/O water. Low pH can happen when there is a high PPM/EC or root death.

If the max room temperature is 80, then the temperature at leaf level is going to be higher than that, maybe 85, even 90. The key to that issue is to get the room temperature down.

2. Is it just coco or coco with perlite? What's the stuff on the top of the medium?

3. What nutrients and nutrient concentration and pH was used?

What is the run-off PPM/EC? That would settle whether this is a nutrient deficiency, or a nutrient lockout because of a high PPM/EC.

This.

And remember, light damage can come from anything that slows down your metabolism. Stunned/slow growth = dimm the light while you fix the problem.

 

[cancareent]

You’re too kind.

Please see above post

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Mother Earth Coco with perlite - topped with Pure perlite as summer has come and I usually have a gnat problem. The perlite on top of the soil eliminates this issue for me.
I use the Dutchmaster coco line - I use their aggressive feed chart. I PH at 5.8. Have not watered to runoff as I only feed them half a gallon every week or so as of now.
I am using CMH 315 watt 2 plants per light for veg. the lights are about a foot and a half above the canopy

The lights might be too close.

I'm pretty sure that if you tested the runoff you'll find that the EC/PPM is way too high.

The easiest thing to do right away is to slowly flush the medium with a very low nutrient solution (0.2 EC).

Then feed with 1/2 of recommended strength. (I would say less in just coco without all the perlite.) Drying between waterings also raises the EC/PPM between waterings.

 

[Eternal420247]

I have the same issues running dutch masters in my rdwc...

 

[TanzanianMagic]

So I did a little experiment.

I grew 2 plants in coco only, with minimal involvement.

- I fed them no more than 0.4 EC in P/K 0-9-10 of Green Sensation, and 0.1 EC of epsom salt. (I did once feed Coco A+B and once some Urtica stinging nettle fermentation, which contains more nitrogen, which they didn't like.)
- They were fed nutrients/water when the top of the soil was no longer wet, about twice a week.
- Even that was a little too much nutrients, and I'm adding 6.0 pH R/O water every once a week, when the top of the soil is no longer wet in the morning. Which is a lot more dynamic than just a schedule, and allows for changes in the weather and increases in the size of the plant.
- The plants did seem to suffer a bit from the cold and from getting rootbound, I should have transplanted them earlier. They're perking up right now in the bigger pots. It's best to transplant them when the leaves are just over the edge of the pot.

When you use coco as a drying medium, nutrient concentrations increase as the coco dries, so you need to only feed 1/4 of the recommended strength, on top of the EC/PPM of the water itself. This is very different from a medium which is watered/flooded daily or multiple times a day, or hydroponcis and aeroponics. The drying medium concentrates nutrients in proportion to evaporation. So if you lose 3/4 of the water before watering again, use 1/4 of the concentration.

I repotted them today, and these are the pictures I took of the roots. Notice that the little roots grow to the edge of the pot, and then direct growth elsewhere, ready to grow sideways after transplanting. That's the phosphorus. And transplanting in coco is transplanting in a medium without nutrients, so it cannot burn the roots.

I planted 5 seeds of Tanzanian Magic seeds from 2012, 5 came out, 2 made it through. They were hit by spidermites and I didn't get to them in time. The singular (coco) medium didn't give them a lot of protection. However home made kombucha from cannabis leaves and sugar made them go away. It's also great for the plants, which respond to it immediately.

Before transplanting. They were hit by the cold nights of May. However because of the p and k, they have strong roots and fat stems, making them very resilient.

And this is what a combination of moderate watering, high PK, and straight coco (no perlite, no drainage layer and no root stimulator other than the phosphorus) can do.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

After transplanting, I fed them reverse osmosis water, 0.4 EC of Canna Coco A+B and 0.1 EC of MgSO4 (epsom salt), at a pH of 6.0. The nutrient concentration increases as the coco dries.

May 22

May 28