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What you would do when this is your Plant???

Fiet

Active member
She looks great I don't see a problem. The foxtails are kind of weird and I don't like the burnt leaf tips but it happens indoors. She's not done, needs at least a couple more weeks. Wait until almost all the hairs turn color and the calyxes swell. She'll bulk up quite a bit. It looks like you removed all the fan leaves a bit too soon. I'd remove the lower ones that aren't getting light but removing all of them screws with the plant's hormones. Unless they'd already turned yellow.

It's an auto. Reducing the hours of light isn't going to help it and could cause it to turn hermaphrodite. I'd probably stop feeding her, give her only water, and let her rip. Let her cannibalize herself. Don't cut the popcorn, if you don't want it give it to me. I'll make it into hash. Removing all the lower limbs this late in flowering isn't good for the plant and could fuck it up.

(edit) Didn't see the last post. What happened? Should have left it alone at 24/7. It's still not finished, all white hairs. Autos are very sensitive, you mess up the hormonal balance by screwing with light cycles and chopping shit off it. And this happens. Better luck next time...

To much Infos from all sides :( I hope i don't damage her with my popcorn removing but i don't want that the Plant can't any air between so i do maybe to much... Yeah i stop feeding only wanted and the rest of the Reservoir... Changing the lights i do it because she Revege that was a safety reason and the light are to powerful i can't hang them higher :( but cutting light back to 12 maybe help ore not i don't know but this plant isn't normal never had this problem bevore so next run are photos
 

Fiet

Active member
some plants just go on and on when stressed... I suppose eventually it may 'finish' - but when? and that is not a 18/19 week 'phenotype' that you've just happened upon...
I'd rather start again with a new grow than soldier on with a stressed one... but that's just me - everybody has different styles and thoughts, I guess.. But 112 days - 16 weeks...its just not worth it... you can grow a pure haze plant in that time.... Autos just don't take to being stressed. I've fucked up loads of auto grows (I don't know why..I guess I'm more used to photo sensitive plants) but they seem to just stay crazy once it happens..

My thoughts are that you have enough weed there to go through until the next grow finishes (until you have a good quality stash) so why wait? just get started on a new, fresh grow straight away...

Maybe I just thought I'd offer a bit of balance as most people here seem to think 'keep going until it finishes..' but I'm just not so sure... if it is another 4 weeks (say) then you'd be half way to finishing the next crop by the time you're done..

If you can get your hands on another LED then you could maybe start the new grow ASAP and also see if you get anywhere with this one at the same time.. or could you put the plant in the greenhouse to see if it finishes? Or under a sunny window?

Whatever you do, Good Luck! I hope it works out well for you..

The Cool think is i have a Small tent in place i put it out from the garage and later i built it up and hang a light from the tent in i already pop new Seeds but this time photos. I try to let the big one finish 2-3 weeks from know i will see if something change then but yeah i start a new Grow there
 

Fiet

Active member
Day 119

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Ca++

Well-known member
The signs leading to talk of reveg, look to me like it never got into flower. Obviously these are genetically challenged plants, but the 12/12 should help. Though I'm wondering how dark the night is. I see the photo's are all taken with the lights off. Some people don't seem to respect the dark, so it's worth me considering.
 

Fiet

Active member
The signs leading to talk of reveg, look to me like it never got into flower. Obviously these are genetically challenged plants, but the 12/12 should help. Though I'm wondering how dark the night is. I see the photo's are all taken with the lights off. Some people don't seem to respect the dark, so it's worth me considering.


I switch to 12;12 3 weeks ago. I will let it go for 2-3 week's but i start know a new chapter of growing with new beans this time photo and never Fastbuds again
 

Ca++

Well-known member
All the big name plants are photo, and offer a greater degree of control. The only real argument for auto's is outdoor.
It can still go wrong though. I have had an 8 week strain in seed form, that had some finish at 8, some 12, and at 16 I realised I could of had another crop out, so chucked what was left. They resembled what you have there. So nothing could be blamed, except the beans, and a rather high temperature when hatching them.

You should do better this next run that you have started
 

Fiet

Active member
All the big name plants are photo, and offer a greater degree of control. The only real argument for auto's is outdoor.
It can still go wrong though. I have had an 8 week strain in seed form, that had some finish at 8, some 12, and at 16 I realised I could of had another crop out, so chucked what was left. They resembled what you have there. So nothing could be blamed, except the beans, and a rather high temperature when hatching them.

You should do better this next run that you have started
How long you let it run know the problem plant I think i give her time 2-3 weeks why not
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I imagine it's still paying for itself, but I wouldn't let the next crop wait for the space, that this crop is taking. So that might be the ticking clock.
 

Fiet

Active member
I imagine it's still paying for itself, but I wouldn't let the next crop wait for the space, that this crop is taking. So that might be the ticking clock.
I let the new seedlings run in a small tent for 2-3 weeks then will clean the big tent and harvest the crazy plant.
 

Normannen

Anne enn Normal
Veteran
I can see why you think it reveged, what you're observing is a mix of stretch for light with too much Nitrogen in the mix, happened to one of my "pure Sativas".
But do follow the advice of people who tell you to bring it to 11 hours of light if not 10 hours of light.
and maybe try increasing your P-K a little? though you want o be careful or you end up yellowing the plant as all N can end up locked out at the roots.

personally I think it looks beautiful, the fox tailing and the overall fill of the tent. Just a bit overfed.

how is it doing nowadays?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I can see why you think it reveged, what you're observing is a mix of stretch for light with too much Nitrogen in the mix, happened to one of my "pure Sativas".
But do follow the advice of people who tell you to bring it to 11 hours of light if not 10 hours of light.
and maybe try increasing your P-K a little? though you want o be careful or you end up yellowing the plant as all N can end up locked out at the roots.

personally I think it looks beautiful, the fox tailing and the overall fill of the tent. Just a bit overfed.

how is it doing nowadays?
Interesting point about nitrogen's crop steering attributes.

While crop steering is really just developing as a topic that can stand on it's own two feet, there is little doubt that N will be the dominant nutritional element, as we make advances worth calling out.
N delaying bloom has been known a long time. While low N will speed a plant along, with the expectation it must finish, before it's finished. I have not recognised a plant kept in a vegetative state by high N myself. It does come up though. Perhaps I have just been blinkered by N loving plants.
 

Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
I've done my share of sativas - O. Haze, Zamal, Mex., Dalat Vietnam, etc. Your faves look fine. My advice - don't do the Bloom foods. This is the time you need the retention of leaves and most Bloom foods are low in N and way too high in P or K. If the food is high in P it will also induce micro deficiencies at times.

Many pure sativas finish their flowering response based on chronological times, not necessarily photoperids. My Dalat Vietnam was a good example. It was age, not photoperiod that drove the flowering response. Moral - chill, take care of plant health especially leaves as they;re the unit that drives production. If you must, don't go more than a 12/12 or 11/13.

Pistil color and trichomes is a good visual aid regarding when to harvest. Your trichomes, da sugar, should be at least milky color using a 5X loupe or magnifying glass. Some may be amber which is a good thing. The pistil production will come to a crawl come time to harvest. When most are brown and very few new clear/white pistils are being produced, it's time to harvest.

Sativas produce fluffy buds so don't let the forum mutt pix confuse you regarding what you're growing.


CruzDalat.jpeg


You have a pretty good window regarding potency.

PotencyGraph-Mel_Frank1.jpg


Uncle Ben
 
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Old Uncle Ben

Well-known member
I can see why you think it reveged, what you're observing is a mix of stretch for light with too much Nitrogen in the mix, happened to one of my "pure Sativas".

Another forum myth. It's high P foods that induce stretch. N supports the retention of leaves which drive bud production. Needless to say too much of any macro is not a good thing.

"Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P applications."

I got off the high P drills many years ago. My preferred NPK is something around 15-5-10.

Sativas stretch by their very nature. Want branches upon branches? Grow pure indicas like Deep Chunk LOL.

Male! Females had buds piled on top of buds deep in the canopy. Another cannabis forum myth - deleafing. Buds sites deep within the canopy DO NOT need light to produce well, and thick.

Deep Chunk male Jan 17.jpg


LapizMtnFeb21#2.jpg


UB
 

Normannen

Anne enn Normal
Veteran
Interesting point about nitrogen's crop steering attributes.

While crop steering is really just developing as a topic that can stand on it's own two feet, there is little doubt that N will be the dominant nutritional element, as we make advances worth calling out.
N delaying bloom has been known a long time. While low N will speed a plant along, with the expectation it must finish, before it's finished. I have not recognised a plant kept in a vegetative state by high N myself. It does come up though. Perhaps I have just been blinkered by N loving plants.
Not "high" per se, but higher than during the last weeks of flowering (considering people who flush and or use molasses or in any way end up reducing nitro; that and the rule of thumb of every nute seller, and not, to increase the PK ratios at the end).
Personal rule of thumb is lower than veg regimen and (since I don't use molasses, sometimes I flush if I notice buildups) very often end up letting the reveging plant take up the left over nutes from the previous flowering "season".
 
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Normannen

Anne enn Normal
Veteran
Another forum myth. It's high P foods that induce stretch. N supports the retention of leaves which drive bud production. Needless to say too much of any macro is not a good thing.

"Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P applications."

I got off the high P drills many years ago. My preferred NPK is something around 15-5-10.

Sativas stretch by their very nature. Want branches upon branches? Grow pure indicas like Deep Chunk LOL.

Male! Females had buds piled on top of buds deep in the canopy. Another cannabis forum myth - deleafing. Buds sites deep within the canopy DO NOT need light to produce well, and thick.

View attachment 18907666

View attachment 18907667

UB
[EDIT]: oh, I use a P of 1.4 during veg an P of 5 during bloom
 
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