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What Sort of Wiring do I need for a 3 x 600watt Grow?

I think that if I run 3x600 with an 8inch vortex fan and a 12000 btu AC I will probably use around 28 amps. If I am going to give my self a little buffer room for some small fans I would push it up a little higher. Since I want to have some margin for error I should probably go with a 40amp circuit from the breaker? I know almost nothing about wiring except what I found on the web today. However, I would guess that my room currently has no more than a 20amp circuit.

Anyway I am thinking that I should get set up a sub-panel running off of the 40amp breaker in the grow room and then run 20 amp outlets off of the breaker? I want to hire an electrician to do it. My friend guessed it would cost 900 to pay a pro to do it. Sounds high to me. The circuit breaker is very far away from the room though.
 
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yamaha_1fan

MedicinalHerb said:
I think that if I run 3x600 with an 8inch vortex fan and a 12000 btu AC I will probably use around 28 amps. If I am going to give my self a little buffer room for some small fans I would push it up a little higher. Since I want to have some margin for error I should probably go with a 40amp circuit from the breaker? I know almost nothing about wiring except what I found on the web today. However, I would guess that my room currently has no more than a 20amp circuit.

Anyway I am thinking that I should get set up a sub-panel running off of the 40amp breaker in the grow room and then run 20 amp outlets off of the breaker? I want to hire an electrician to do it. My friend guessed it would cost 900 to pay a pro to do it. Sounds high to me. The circuit breaker is very far away from the room though.

Dont forget pumps. My pumps use more amps (3) than my Vortex fan (1.2). Also are you calculating your lights at 110 or 220? If you are going to run a sub-panel, you might as well run the lights at 220. Seems like you are calculating at 110

You could also just make some room in your breaker box and run a couple circuits out of it. One 20 AMP 220V circuit for lights, and one or two 20AMP 110v circuits for pumps, fans etc. That would require #12 wire which is like $70 for 250 feet. You probably only need the 2 wire with ground cause even at 220, I dont think the devices we are using require the 3rd wire.

What you want to do is pretty easy. Lots of people on here can help you. Also go to Home Depot, or Lowes and pick up one of those DIY electrical books. They tell you everything you need to know.

The biggest challenge I see is making sure the wires you run are safely run throughout the house. If you go through a wall, you want to make sure the wire isnt going to vibrate and get worn through the insulation, creating a short.

How far away is the room from the breaker box?

BTW, I would wait for some follow up advise as my electrical skills are still DIY, so wait for one of the professional sparkies to answer.
 

testpilot

Member
I know almost nothing about wiring except what I found on the web today.

Hmm. I'd start calling electricians.

Otherwise:

I would run a 6 gauge feeder (3-wire + ground) to your sub panel with a 50A double pole breaker, jic. From there, 30A/250V double pole over a 10-2 wire to a single 30A outlet/junction to connect a relay for your lights. Overdesign it now in case you decide to expand later. Also remember that most of your equipment will be a continuous load.

Concentrate on getting that sub panel in and the rest is easy. Even if it's not going to be inspected, make it clean and up to code.
 

texasluv

Member
I know very little about electrical wiring, and only vaguely understand relation between watts/amps/volts etc. That being said- I needed to run enough electricity to my room to power 3- 1000W ballasts and a dual 600W ballast. I decided to get a lighting controller so all the lights could be run off of one single digital timer.

I went to Home Depot and asked the guy in the electrical section for what kind of wire I need to run for 220V and 30A. Bought a 50' roll of cable, the appropriate breaker for my breaker box, and some conduit to run the wire through. Went home, opened up my breaker box and wired up the breaker just like the water heater breaker. I just looked at the setup inside the breaker box and copied it. Be sure to pay close attention because on my box the breakers on the left were setup differently than the breakers on the right. I wired it all up, crossed my fingers then turned the breaker to the 'ON' position. No fire, no sparks, no weird noises- so something was right :joint:

I connected one of my 1K lights to the controller and turned it on. BINGO- wired up and functional- total cost under $300, including the lighting controller.

Electrical wiring is not that complicated if you already have a template to work off of. Although I don't necessarily recommend doing what I did due to the fact that I'm not a licensed electrician, I still think it is better than having a random person in my house to wire up some electrical that is pretty obvious as far as use.
 

testpilot

Member
texasluv, Wiring outlets/branch circuits by duplicating other circuits is good for seeing how things are connected, but it's a little different than a sub panel. I wouldn't just copy circuit wiring unless you know exactly how/why things were done. There are also "little things" that must be accounted for. Proper conduit sizing, grounding, continuous load, wet/damp locations, what's hot and what not to touch, etc.. This is why we pay electricians.
 
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yamaha_1fan

Bignugget said:
Shit hopefully nothing is hot because your INEXPERIENCED ASS should have turned the main breaker off before starting work!!

No one mentioned that and that is STEP 1, shit I turn the power off anytime I open the cover on the main box, maybe I am paranoid but I sure hate getting the shit shocked out of me.

Stay Safe

Bignugget

You are right. I just assume anyone going into a panel is going to find the main breaker/shut off first. But you know what they say about assume. From now on any electrical advise from me will include shutting off main power.
 
Thanks so much for the help!

Do any pro's have a guess for what this might cost me if I hire and electrician for this job? I am willing to pay, I just want to know what range of costs I should be looking at.

More details, my lights are going to be run on 110v although some of them can be switched to 220. I might look into switching the lights to 220 if there are some good benefits. I heard 220 saves some utility costs?

The breaker is about 150 feet from the room unfortunately. It is outside and rather than run a wire through the whole house it might make sense to run most of it along the side in a conduit.

I am going run the suggestions by my friend who is at least somewhat literate when it comes to wiring.
 
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testpilot

Member
Bignugget said:
Shit hopefully nothing is hot because your INEXPERIENCED ASS should have turned the main breaker off before starting work!!

No one mentioned that and that is STEP 1, shit I turn the power off anytime I open the cover on the main box, maybe I am paranoid but I sure hate getting the shit shocked out of me.

Stay Safe

Bignugget

If you're working in a main breaker panel, the service lugs remain hot even if you turn off the main breaker. :redface:

You would need to disconnect before service enters the panel or flip the breaker feeding it if it's a sub-panel. I don't disconnect service before adding a branch circuit, I flip the main breaker and don't touch those lugs.
 

testpilot

Member
MedicinalHerb said:
Thanks so much for the help!

Do any pro's have a guess for what this might cost me if I hire and electrician for this job? I am willing to pay, I just want to know what range of costs I should be looking at.

More details, my lights are going to be run on 110v although some of them can be switched to 220. I might look into switching the lights to 220 if there are some good benefits. I heard 220 saves some utility costs?

The breaker is about 150 feet from the room unfortunately. It is outside and rather than run a wire through the whole house it might make sense to run most of it along the side in a conduit.

I am going run the suggestions by my friend who is at least somewhat literate when it comes to wiring.

Your room is outside or in a detached building? That's going to add to the requirements for the wiring.
 
you may want to get a book. like wiring simplified its based on the national electrical code, its cheap (not more than $10). it has most if not all the info youd need, ive done it but i did have some electrical exp to start.
 
Thanks, I think I am going to let someone who knows more about wiring actually implement this system but I would like to educate myself along the way and know what I need to ask for. The room is within a garage, the breaker is on the outside of the house. I thought a conduit along the house might be the least invasive way to get the right amount of power to the room.
 
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gdawg

ok medicinal herb i know a lil bout wirin industrial. this setup was from leftovers from jobs so dont know the cosst of the subpanel, but the mechanical timer was 50 bucks, this board is 55 feet from my panel (40ampbreaker)and i used #8 3 conducter wire was like 110$.pulled it under the house. makes it alot easier come time to move to that bigger house. ya sound like you got the idea what you need to do. 150 feet, hmmm i'll have to find my uglys book and see what ya need.
 
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gdawg

oh ya and i brought 220 to the sub, then broke it down to 110 for the timer. the dang silver ballast is 220. its easy bro
 

humble1

crazaer at overgrow 2.0
ICMag Donor
Veteran
What about upgrading my whole service? My house panel is only 100 amp and I'd prefer 200 or more.

Rental house and my girl likes to blowdry her hair while washing and drying clothes and watching tv/using computer.

How much would it cost approx. and would my landlord ever find out?

I can run wire from the main, so that's no worries. I'm rather sure I need help on a 100+ amp overhaul.

What, if anything does PG&E need to know?

Thanks!
 
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G

Guest

testpilot said:
Concentrate on getting that sub panel in and the rest is easy. Even if it's not going to be inspected, make it clean and up to code.


Words of wisdom.

Understand also, if a fire starts - the fire department usually has the police stop by when they find anything "unusual"


Safety is nothing to take lightly.
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

MedicinalHerb said:
Thanks so much for the help!



More details, my lights are going to be run on 110v although some of them can be switched to 220. I might look into switching the lights to 220 if there are some good benefits. I heard 220 saves some utility costs?

running on 220 will not save you any money. Ohms law. Switching to 220 cuts your amps in half and allows you to power more ballasts with the same wire. Just makes life easier when you get into multiple lights
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

humble1 said:
What about upgrading my whole service? My house panel is only 100 amp and I'd prefer 200 or more.

Rental house and my girl likes to blowdry her hair while washing and drying clothes and watching tv/using computer.

How much would it cost approx. and would my landlord ever find out?

I can run wire from the main, so that's no worries. I'm rather sure I need help on a 100+ amp overhaul.

What, if anything does PG&E need to know?

Thanks!

You would probably need an electrician. Changing panels is pretty expensive from what I have heard. In the thousands of dollars range. New wire needs to be fed from the meter to the panel, possibly new wire from the power lines to the house? Then the panel itslef has to be changed and that is a big job. All the conduit running to the panel has to be fixed to the new panel, etc.

I would not even consider it in a rental.
 
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