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What is appening to my plants?

stizzo

Active member
i have a led lamp set to 40% and recently the leaf are starting to curling in.
what could be the problem?
 

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stizzo

Active member
the led doesnt create heat and there is a lil fan blowing wind on em. i can take the exact temperature right now, i'll have to do when i get home,.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Perfect friend, if the LED runs cool and you have a fan blowing, I would recommend turning the light wattage higher. Stay close for the first few hrs and watch them super close. Do it on a day you don't have anything to do and get the light wattage as high as it will go. Keep your thermometer and hydrometer close to watch the temperature. and humidity. Full steam ahead and keep us posted.
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
i have a led lamp set to 40% and recently the leaf are starting to curling in.
what could be the problem?
Mildew or septoria. It is interfering with photosynthesis.

That's from lack of air circulation.

The remedy to this kind of infection is to infect it with beneficial fungi, like from a fermentation of sprouted hempseeds, honey and water.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
The spots on the fan leaves look like you've been spraying them with nutes and some drops dried on the leaves. Simply spraying with water should clean them up. On the other hand, new growth looks fine, so there's no harm in just removing the old fan leaves and letting the new growth take over if that's not the case.
 

stizzo

Active member
i changed pots, chopped some leaf, raised the lamp ( they got 15000lux)
but it doesnt seem they are developing in height.
 

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TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
i have a led lamp set to 40% and recently the leaf are starting to curling in.
what could be the problem?
There is way too little information.

- what is the medium?
- what are the nutrients? Brand, pH and EC or PPM would be helpful.
- what are they grown in? The first photos look like they're in a cardboard box, which would certainly create mold issues.

Also you should really get that electrical cable off the floor. Any liquid gets on that and blammo.
 
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stizzo

Active member
Idk the name of the medium. A local shop gave me just a plastic bag with some in it. I used nutriment for the first week then i stopped. We are in week 3 now. They were growing in a cardbox but now I put em in thr open room so i could raise the led higher trying to let em stretch. (They are under 15000 lux circa). For the ph tomorrow amazon will deliver my instrument. Ec or ppm idk what they are.
 
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TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Idk the name of the medium. A local shop gave me just a plastic bag with some in it. I used nutriment for the first week then i stopped. We are in week 3 now. They were growing in a cardbox but now I put em in thr open room so i could raise the led higher trying to let em stretch. (They are under 15000 lux circa). For the ph tomorrow amazon will deliver my instrument. Ec or ppm idk what they are.
It's a good move to get them out of the cardboard box. This was mainly an airflow issue.

- I wouldn't use most non-cannabis specific media without adding at least one tablespoon per gallon of magnesium lime.

It stabilizes the pH, adds magnesium and calcium and keeps the pH in the right range for nutrient absorption.

- EC and PPM

EC and PPM are the measure of concentration of the nutrients. If you feed with liquid nutrients and you don't use an EC/PPM and a pH meter, you're playing Russian roulette every time you feed them. One feed can burn the roots. Also, if something goes wrong and there is a nutrient lockout or deficiency, you'll need to test the run-off so you can see if the plant received too many nutrients or too little.

- The all important medium

I would just start with a real cannabis specific brand to avoid nutrient deficiencies. Something you can use straight out of the bag is Canna Bio Terra Plus. Just use their Bio Canna Vega for veg and Bio Canna Flores for flower and forget the rest of the line. Biocanna Bio Terra is mainly very expensive compost, plus coco coir and some peat. Add a teaspoon of cowmanure and you're good to go.
 

stizzo

Active member
It's a good move to get them out of the cardboard box. This was mainly an airflow issue.

- I wouldn't use most non-cannabis specific media without adding at least one tablespoon per gallon of magnesium lime.

It stabilizes the pH, adds magnesium and calcium and keeps the pH in the right range for nutrient absorption.

- EC and PPM

EC and PPM are the measure of concentration of the nutrients. If you feed with liquid nutrients and you don't use an EC/PPM and a pH meter, you're playing Russian roulette every time you feed them. One feed can burn the roots. Also, if something goes wrong and there is a nutrient lockout or deficiency, you'll need to test the run-off so you can see if the plant received too many nutrients or too little.

- The all important medium

I would just start with a real cannabis specific brand to avoid nutrient deficiencies. Something you can use straight out of the bag is Canna Bio Terra Plus. Just use their Bio Canna Vega for veg and Bio Canna Flores for flower and forget the rest of the line. Biocanna Bio Terra is mainly very expensive compost, plus coco coir and some peat. Add a teaspoon of cowmanure and you're good to go.
I would love some cow manure but I live in a city in Italy and it s kinda hard to find. Plus i dont think the stink would be that good in the apt :D
 
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GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
You've got multiple tops, that's always going to slow vertical growth. That's one of the big reasons to do multiple tops. They look fine to me, just add a cup of patience and you should be good
 

stizzo

Active member
well instead of a ph meter they send me a tds\ppm meter -.-
what is a good value for the water to be used for my plants?
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
well instead of a ph meter they send me a tds\ppm meter -.-
what is a good value for the water to be used for my plants?
PPM is fine. Usually it converts to EC on a 500 scale.

My own water without chlorine is about 0.4 EC (x 500 = 200 PPM). Many people have softer water.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
PPM is fine. Usually it converts to EC on a 500 scale.

My own water without chlorine is about 0.4 EC (x 500 = 200 PPM). Many people have softer water.
0.4 is 240ppm. Generally seen as about right for tap water.

I can show you why it's 240ppm, but in return, I would ask you not to use scales that nobody understands.

EC is what we grow with. It's what you find printed on bottles, and there is no fixed maths to convert PPM to this number. When trying, it's extremely common to miss by 40%. It's weed growing 101. PPM=piss poor measurement.
 

stizzo

Active member
2 weeks for the brown pot and 3 weeks for the white. watered them yesyerday with a little bit of nutes. They seems to get thicker but not that toller. Plus the leaves seems week.
How do i operare.?
 

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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
0.4 is 240ppm. Generally seen as about right for tap water.

I can show you why it's 240ppm, but in return, I would ask you not to use scales that nobody understands.

EC is what we grow with. It's what you find printed on bottles, and there is no fixed maths to convert PPM to this number. When trying, it's extremely common to miss by 40%. It's weed growing 101. PPM=piss poor measurement.
Nonsense,. That's a Chad comment just to argue about it. EC is not the only measure most grow with. Many feed charts are listed in PPM, not EC. Using EC in veg will cause you to use way too much feed every time. After 50 years of growing, I still use PPM, perfect every time. Here in the USA, we use PPM and EC. There used for different stages of growth that's growing weed 101. IMO PH is far more important to keep your plants happy/Healthy. It's the #1 cause of plant issues. Growing cannabis isn't difficult, No need to overthink that we need to be that accurate in PPM/EC.

i have a led lamp set to 40% and recently the leaf are starting to curling in.
what could be the problem?
Your plants look fine.. I don't see anything to worry about. Just make sure to keep the medium PH stable at 5.8-6.0 with about 500ppm of feed. Are you in Coco, hard to tell but do not over-water. This can cause leaf curl.. Get a meter that does PH/PPM/EC. We can get you growing healthy plants.
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
Using EC in veg will cause you to use way too much feed every time. Here in the USA, we use PPM and EC. There used for different stages of growth that's growing weed 101.
There is absolutely no substance to what you are saying. You are, in fact, spreading misinformation. If a single person agrees with those statements, Then you must have two accounts.
If many feed charts list PPM but not EC, I guess you could find some examples. Good luck.

You advise 500PPM, with no idea what you are saying. Nobody has asked what PPM meter he has, and so you can't tell him how many PPM to aim for. I know when you talk PPM it's 700, while the last guy said it's 500. Two people on the trot, that talk the talk, but fall on different sides of the fence, without trying to figure out which side the guy receiving the advice is standing. There is 40% separating you. While you yourself can't feed properly with an EC meter that rounds to the nearest 10%, how is 40% going to work out.

If the OP wants to do some science, he doesn't want this PPM conflict. He want's an EC meter, because it's a single set standard of measuring feed, that leaves nobody confused.


We keep going round and round on this topic, because it really should be 101 stuff. You can't measure PPM, it's just a guess, and not a standardised one. EC is what we can measure. The PPM guys seem to think, that like Metric and imperial, PPM and EC are standard units, so their is an easy math conversion. This is not true. A PPM meter gives a Piss Poor Measurement. There is no agreement on what the maths would be, if it were to be standardised. So everyone is giving out different numbers, after measuring the same tank. It's useless.

A tank Taz calls 200PPM, I call 240PPM, and you call 280PPM. We all says it's EC 0.4 though. Everybody's EC meter is the same, but the only PPM meter you know, is your own.


I would like to stop having this conversation. It always ends in some sort of tantrum where a PPM user offering no science, sticks his head in the sand screaming they can't take it. Or just bails out of the conversation as they have no substance. Either is a win for growers everywhere, as we move to correct our growing etiquette. Tanks have their EC measured. It's de-facto. There is no PPM meter that measures PPM. It can't be done. A meter masquerading as a PPM meter, is reading the EC, then like us three, it's having a guess at the PPM. It's just adding a mystery equation, to a number we can use perfectly well as it is.

In the same tank...
If Taz reads 500ppm and knows he has a 500 meter, he can just tell us it's EC1
If you read 700ppm, with your 700 meter, you can also just tell us it's EC1
The result is, using an EC meter, we can make a tank that strong ourselves.
If instead you both stick to PPM reading, then you have no agreement how strong the tank is.



If that seems clear, then we can move on. The conversion from EC to PPM isn't a fixed multiplier. The multiplier changes as the salinity does. The 500 scale, is fairly close to true, with very low salts, such as RO. If we are looking at 0.4 tap, a 580 conversion is more suited. The 700 scale is close to the truth, if the EC is around 1.5
Ponder: Most EC (and the pretend ppm) meters use a calibration solution around 1.25 and the eutech meters use a 680 conversion.
This is just blowing peoples minds, who simply want to stick in a meter and get a number to work with, that can be shared. This is why we just don't bother. Measuring a tank shouldn't need a science degree. People will just fuck it up. We have no need to use reference tables to convert the EC to the actual PPM. As we could, if it were a single salt. In the real world, we have a range of salts, all with different conductivity, being used at different rates. So even AI can't read the EC and give PPM. As it would need to know what the plant had done, and the pH. The scope of this is simply beyond reach, and the more you know, the more ridiculous our use of PPM meters feels. This is why studies are based on tank EC readings. It can't be any other way.

PPM comes into play when we weigh physical amounts into solution. We can't measure this with a meter, but maths tells us the PPM based on water volume and the weight we put in there. When we want a specific feed ratio, we weigh in everything we need. At that moment in time, we know the tanks PPM of each, and can measure the tanks EC. Then we can maintain the EC.
 
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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
There is absolutely no substance to what you are saying. You are, in fact, spreading misinformation. If a single person agrees with those statements, Then you must have two accounts.
If many feed charts list PPM but not EC, I guess you could find some examples. Good luck.

You advise 500PPM, with no idea what you are saying. Nobody has asked what PPM meter he has, and so you can't tell him how many PPM to aim for. I know when you talk PPM it's 700, while the last guy said it's 500. Two people on the trot, that talk the talk, but fall on different sides of the fence, without trying to figure out which side the guy receiving the advice is standing. There is 40% separating you. While you yourself can't feed properly with an EC meter that rounds to the nearest 10%, how is 40% going to work out.

If the OP wants to do some science, he doesn't want this PPM conflict. He want's an EC meter, because it's a single set standard of measuring feed, that leaves nobody confused.


We keep going round and round on this topic, because it really should be 101 stuff. You can't measure PPM, it's just a guess, and not a standardised one. EC is what we can measure. The PPM guys seem to think, that like Metric and imperial, PPM and EC are standard units, so their is an easy math conversion. This is not true. A PPM meter gives a Piss Poor Measurement. There is no agreement on what the maths would be, if it were to be standardised. So everyone is giving out different numbers, after measuring the same tank. It's useless.

A tank Taz calls 200PPM, I call 240PPM, and you call 280PPM. We all says it's EC 0.4 though. Everybody's EC meter is the same, but the only PPM meter you know, is your own.


I would like to stop having this conversation. It always ends in some sort of tantrum where a PPM user offering no science, sticks his head in the sand screaming they can't take it. Or just bails out of the conversation as they have no substance. Either is a win for growers everywhere, as we move to correct our growing etiquette. Tanks have their EC measured. It's de-facto. There is no PPM meter that measures PPM. It can't be done. A meter masquerading as a PPM meter, is reading the EC, then like us three, it's having a guess at the PPM. It's just adding a mystery equation, to a number we can use perfectly well as it is.

In the same tank...
If Taz reads 500ppm and knows he has a 500 meter, he can just tell us it's EC1
If you read 700ppm, with your 700 meter, you can also just tell us it's EC1
The result is, using an EC meter, we can make a tank that strong ourselves.
If instead you both stick to PPM reading, then you have no agreement how strong the tank is.



If that seems clear, then we can move on. The conversion from EC to PPM isn't a fixed multiplier. The multiplier changes as the salinity does. The 500 scale, is fairly close to true, with very low salts, such as RO. If we are looking at 0.4 tap, a 580 conversion is more suited. The 700 scale is close to the truth, if the EC is around 1.5
Ponder: Most EC (and the pretend ppm) meters use a calibration solution around 1.25 and the eutech meters use a 680 conversion.
This is just blowing peoples minds, who simply want to stick in a meter and get a number to work with, that can be shared. This is why we just don't bother. Measuring a tank shouldn't need a science degree. People will just fuck it up. We have no need to use reference tables to convert the EC to the actual PPM. As we could, if it were a single salt. In the real world, we have a range of salts, all with different conductivity, being used at different rates. So even AI can't read the EC and give PPM. As it would need to know what the plant had done, and the pH. The scope of this is simply beyond reach, and the more you know, the more ridiculous our use of PPM meters feels. This is why studies are based on tank EC readings. It can't be any other way.

PPM comes into play when we weigh physical amounts into solution. We can't measure this with a meter, but maths tells us the PPM based on water volume and the weight we put in there. When we want a specific feed ratio, we weigh in everything we need. At that moment in time, we know the tanks PPM of each, and can measure the tanks EC. Then we can maintain the EC.

All you do is spread miss info.. Every post you engage you argue and spread nonsense. You are not helping anyone here with your claims about PPM BS. Not a damn thing wrong with using PPM to mix our feed.. Just because you can't grow using it doesn't mean the rest of us can't as well..I can grow perfectly using PPM.. EC and PPM are tools nothing more. Anyone can grow healthy plants using PPM just like we have for decades. stop being a Chad trying to make new growers think they're doing something wrong. This will be my last response to you. It sure inst helping those that need some ignored
 

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