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What could cause this leaf issue???

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Here it is.....
Leafs curling. Also yellowing before the transplant...




How long has this problem been going on?
just niticed this morning

What STRAIN are you growing?
Goo

What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?)
clone

What is the age of your plants?
about a month

What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in?
third day flower

What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot)
just transplanted yesterday from 1 gallon to 2 gallon

What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?)
Canna Coco

What Nutrient's are you using?How much of each with how much water? How Often? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*
Canna Coco a+b 4ml/gallon, cannazhyme 6ml/gallon, cal-mag 1ml/gallon every other day, once a week strait water.

What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used?
650ppm

What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"?
6.0

What method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen?
dropper and canna ph meter

How often are you watering?
every other day.

When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding?
yesterday with transplant

What size bulb are you using?
600 hps

What is the distance to the canopy?
1 1/2 ft.

What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity)
30%

What is the canopy temperature?
80 f

What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range)
65-80

What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)
? vortex 4" exhaust and door open in day too.

Is your water HARD or SOFT?
medium

What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water?
quality tap, bubbled for 1 day before use.

Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched?
no

Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when?
Are plant's infected with pest's?
slight fungus gnat infestation, not enough to do damage.

Heres a shot of the whole plant..


And here it is yesterday before the transplant... Notice the yellow?




 
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DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
low nitrogen, probably ph flux or a slight burn caused thoes leafs to dry at the tips.

i bet its high ph water locking out nitro, mag and cal, your plant needs some help.
do you have s ensical? get a gallon of RO and give then some sensical or cal-mag plus, but make sure the ph is good.
 
that is a compound problem, for sure. You really need to switch to r/o it seems. I'd switch, flush with plain r/o then give her fresh ph'd nutes and let it sit for a few hours. Come back and give her more and check the runoff and make sure the ph is good.
You'll have to up the cal-mag...i used it at 4ml a gal. with pbp. but don't know about using it with coco.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Yesterday when I transplanted I used regular water out the bath tub then I waterred with the nutrients ph'd but probably not enough to bring the ph all the way back down from the regular tap water... So this looks like a ph issue? I usually bubble my water for 24 hours before waterring, this time I also didnt do that. If I just return to my regular routine will it fix itself or should I flush with ph adjusted water, then water with nutrients plus Xtra dosage of cal-mag?
I heard that u dont need cal-mag if u are using canna Coco A+B... is this not true?
 
Your using tap water that has calcium and your using nutes that say you don't need cal mag and your using cal-mag?

I don't know if your water is chlorinated or if that last watering messed things up...you can get an analysis of your water from your utilities company.

As far as i can see the canna coco is designed for coco as a one part. That means it already has plenty of calcium and is probably designed to work with low ppm water.

You need to stop any extra cal-mag and get switched to r/o water or at least half/half. My suggestion for more cal-mag is for when you switch to strait r/o. It seems you don't need it all reading up on canna coco so i don't even know why your using it..

My guess is to much calcium is locking out everything....probably throwing off your ph too...
 
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PharmaCan

Active member
Veteran
The red stems and yellow leaves look like an N lockout due to pH problems. Why are you paying attention to the runoff pH, it is meaningless. Adjust the pH of your nute solution to around 5.6-5.7 and that should go away in a couple days.

I don't know what the curling or rusty coloring is from.

PC
 
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GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Here they go today, I picked off some of the worse lookin leaves and waterred with water at ph-6 with just some canna coco a and b at 3 ml/gallon. hopefully they turn around...







Its crazy cuz the grapefruit diesel was transplanted and waterred the same day, and this is what she look like, no leaf curl or bronze/redish spots, just a lil yellow.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Light is a little too close raise the light, the leaves are experience heat stress, and as for the other leaves, your temps are causing phosphorus to be slowly absorbed; keep temps up above 70 if you can....... I would ease up on the feeding as well; slight burn; would use cannazyme only once a week at small amounts; it's an amino acid pk booster type and builds up quickly and should be used sparsely...... your feedings are very close together, you feed every other day?



The main things is heat stress from the light and the purpling from slight burn and cooler temps.

Purple hue from cooler temps; this is how most color changing strains happen and show the same issues.

Phosphorus deficiency from colder temps to deficiency is very different looking and the one you have is due to cooler temps; slow absorption of P

You are also growing out different strains which each strain is somewhat different' some can tolerate more nutes than others and same goes for pH swing and temps..... your grapefruit is not phased by the constant enviroment changes your others are going through.

the yellowing you are seeing is a problem due to cool night time temps and warm temps at day time; newer leaves are supposed to have a slight green/yellowish color; but the neon kind yours is showing is not; that is due to temps cooler to warm warm to cooler day after day.

personally I don't see a pH issue involved here at all, they are not showing one ime.
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Johnny Rotten said:
Why aren't they burned at the extremities? Airflow? Odd looking heat burn....
The reason why it looks odd is, because there is more than one problem here; the purpling is not due to heat stress; it's from cool temps day after day; the heat stress is the leaves curling upwards at the edges towards the top of the plants. When plants get heat stress they curl upwards to try to protect the leaves from drying out; the plant transpire more to use more water when it's hot and if it can't get enough sent they curl to try to protect the leave from getting any more damage.
 

stinkyattic

her dankness
Veteran
I've seen low temps cause bronzing when the root ball is allowed to sit too moist in too cold conditions.
What's your overnight low? Are you swinging more than 15'?
You can get that upcurled leaf margin effect from air that is too dry even if your temps seem only a bit warm.
When you water, how much runoff/run-through do you typically allow? If your tap water is shitty, and has a lot of other junk in it, you really should be allowing 10% run-through when you water.

Runoff pH is an important number to know, btw, because it tells you how your fert solution is interacting with the medium itself.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
I just fed and watterred with about 15 percent runoff yesterday, the ph of the run off was same as before it ran through, 6.0 . The temps were gettin to about 65 but thats only once in a while, the coldest part of night and only when I accidently let the ac go overnight. usual night temps about 69-70, day temps between 80-85, in veg they were in the 90's with no leaf curl and no ill effect, I think this is do the transplant... here go some of the leafs I picked off today, a more closeup for better understanding of the problem, new leaves arent showing this at all, but it seems like they are in random places...





These are the most damaged leaves, the rest arent this bad.
 

knna

Member
You have a cations lock out due to excess calcium added and probably too high ph.

You have locked Mg uptake first and K later. Probably some micros are starting to have problems, too.

Apart of it, your plants are slighty underfeed. So first off, raise the a+b dosage a little. 4ml each per gallon is really low, valid for late flower, but low for the preflowering stage your plants are now.

You need to flush well, finishing with a nutrient solution watering with about 8ml each a+b per gallon and Epsom salts (tsp/gl). You didnt stated the watering ph used, but if you are using 5.8 or over, lower it for some time to help in Ca uptake.

The problem has been caused by using Cannacoco, wich already have enough Ca and Mg, and supplement it with calmg and aditionally use "medium" water (what do you consider "medium"? how many ppms of Ca and Na carry your water? if you dont know it, at least give its EC/TDS). The add of calmg have sense when using the low dosage of cannacoco, but when using RO or very soft water. If not, then you are saturating the coco with too much Ca.
 
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knna

Member
OK, then your tap water should be usable, just you dont need to add the calmg. Remember to keep your ph low (~5.6) for some time after flushing, it will help reducing Ca stored in the coco.

happy growing,
knna
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
He has plenty of calcium and mag in his setup; the plants just need more stable temps and cut back on how close the light is and problem solved.
 

Murphy

Member
.....I would stop pulling the leaves off, let them die of and the plant will release them when it has used eveything it can from it. The more you pull off, the you are making the problem worse by forcing the plant to go to the next set of leaves to resolve the lack of..... I would listen to stich from there.
 
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