If the curl gets worse you know what to do.
What causes a single finger curl?
- Thread starter goingrey
- Start date
Brother Nature
Well-known member
Thalidomide... 
goingrey
Well-known member
Hey at least mama was feelin' goodThalidomide...
goingrey
Well-known member
Yeah from 18/6 to 12/12, same lamp.
goingrey
Well-known member
The problem has gotten worse, more fingers, and is the same on plants that did not get the root treatment and the one that did. But it is only happening on the edge, furthest from the lamp, I believe it is caused by a lack of light (maybe a misbalance of nutrients and light). Not going to do anything as long as the plants directly under the lamp remain happy.
goingrey
Well-known member
Hydro yes. Doesn't stay at 5.5 very long anyway, rises quick.
No I don't think so. Or coldest for the tops, warmest for the roots. But I don't think there is a big difference.
No, I'm using TA NovaMax which has both ammoniacal and nitrate nitrogen.
First time running this setup. It's a shared reservoir recirculating system. Seems unlikely that fungal or bacterial issues would be localized like this.
I'm quite convinced the reason is the lack of light at the far end.
Ca++
Well-known member
Far end of the red, blue, or room lol
Do you still have the early leaves underneath looking okay? This looks like an outer leaf in the pics.
I'm fishing for why these parts might be more susceptible to a mold that's systemic. Perhaps it's the oldest of leaves, and has a good water flow to carry gunk there. Which would accumulate over time.
As an isolated leaf, whatever really. It's just the spread that I find concerning. It appears it could be some sort of cellular problem. Had you said just no3 I would of thought water excess. I have seen similar from reasonable use for calmag, but that kinda pools, rather than taking out extremities. Due to the no3 used in it's production, making the no3 too dominant in my feed. Over 95% I presume. But I'm off down memory lane here.
Might need some more pics, to see just how localised the issue is. That is likely key here. I need to understand air movement in the room and such, to really think about the possibilities. It certainly sounds wet though, and permanently wet systems often get a bit warm and/or rotten. The answer may be calcium chloride iirc. Pool shock.
Do you still have the early leaves underneath looking okay? This looks like an outer leaf in the pics.
I'm fishing for why these parts might be more susceptible to a mold that's systemic. Perhaps it's the oldest of leaves, and has a good water flow to carry gunk there. Which would accumulate over time.
As an isolated leaf, whatever really. It's just the spread that I find concerning. It appears it could be some sort of cellular problem. Had you said just no3 I would of thought water excess. I have seen similar from reasonable use for calmag, but that kinda pools, rather than taking out extremities. Due to the no3 used in it's production, making the no3 too dominant in my feed. Over 95% I presume. But I'm off down memory lane here.
Might need some more pics, to see just how localised the issue is. That is likely key here. I need to understand air movement in the room and such, to really think about the possibilities. It certainly sounds wet though, and permanently wet systems often get a bit warm and/or rotten. The answer may be calcium chloride iirc. Pool shock.
goingrey
Well-known member
The far end of the light, the red and the blue hehe.
I think it's fine, not really spreading anymore.
I don't have pool shock but will run some FlashClean before the next rez change.
Last edited:
The probem is that the pH drifts upwards, or there is something wrong with the pH meter.
Most nutrients are acidic, so that's not it.
- What kind of water are you using? Is it filtered?
- Do you use growrocks, which buffer to 7.0 pH?
goingrey
Well-known member
Is it a problem? I'm using tap water which has a pH of 7.5. I take the nutrient solution down to about 5.5 when I mix it up. The nutrients do reduce the pH but not that much, so I also use pH-. Then it as it rises close to 6.5, which I assumed was caused by nutrients and water being used up, I use some pH- again to take it down to about 5.5. I'm at 6.1 now after adjusting a couple of days ago.
I'm using Hydrocorn XL in the netpots.
BradChremistry
Member
Boric acid will straighten your leaves if you're quick enough.
Ive seen a million plants get more and more curled as the grower continues to reduce Nitrogen utilization. Yet still it's "Nitrogen curl" because some dope dealer said so, in a fake how-to book 50 years ago..
Funny how none of those dope dealers have interest in how-to-grow guides since. Those CIADEA looking guys with their gay shoulder length faggot haircuts all moved on to new hustles after fucking up everyone's weed.
Ive seen a million plants get more and more curled as the grower continues to reduce Nitrogen utilization. Yet still it's "Nitrogen curl" because some dope dealer said so, in a fake how-to book 50 years ago..
Funny how none of those dope dealers have interest in how-to-grow guides since. Those CIADEA looking guys with their gay shoulder length faggot haircuts all moved on to new hustles after fucking up everyone's weed.
I found out that with hydro to everything be perfect you need RO water to start with.
And systems that are easy to clean everywhere after round.
The more O2 in water the better and once a week few ml of hydrogen peroxide in keep problems away.
Anyway I think that your plants are very happy I dont see much problems there at all.
P.S. If problems go worst have in mind that common elements in tap water like chlorine and chloramine can interact with nutrients, leading to imbalances or nutrient lockout.
Last edited:
You should filter the water, then re-mineralize it, for instance with magnesium lime.
It isn't just the pH, it's the buffering capacity, which is why the pH keeps rising. The extra calcium and likely the also alkaline chloride and choramide need to be removed. Water companies usually put more of it in the water in spring/summer, when temperatures rise and microbial activity increases.
Or at least put the water near the plants at room temperature for at least a day before using it. Much of the chloride will evaporate.
Hydrocorn should also always be put in water for at least a day or so, to flush out lime and hydrate them.
Last edited:
goingrey
Well-known member
Yeah I did mess up not soaking the Hydrocorn long enough, only for some hours, but that was weeks ago I think they've been flushed and hydrated to the point that it wouldn't make any kind of difference anymore.
The municipality says the amount of chloride in the tap water is about 5mg/l. Is that a lot or not?
Ca++
Well-known member
Well at least the light at the end of the tunnel isn't a problem. They look alright.
I tend to go in at 5.5 and if that becomes 6.5, you have literally used all the range. I'm not sure how else I could go about it. Except more regular corrections. Which isn't always ideal.
I'm almost excited at the prospect of being in pebble again later this year. This sort of recirculating system can have pH automation, without a huge investment. Like just part of what a $100 spend can achieve.
It's probably too messy, and unimportant, but a bladder dripping into the tank could hold the pH down a bit longer. I have heard a constant pH is a big issue, but have never pursued it. Though I'm literally kicking the bits under my desk.
I tend to go in at 5.5 and if that becomes 6.5, you have literally used all the range. I'm not sure how else I could go about it. Except more regular corrections. Which isn't always ideal.
I'm almost excited at the prospect of being in pebble again later this year. This sort of recirculating system can have pH automation, without a huge investment. Like just part of what a $100 spend can achieve.
It's probably too messy, and unimportant, but a bladder dripping into the tank could hold the pH down a bit longer. I have heard a constant pH is a big issue, but have never pursued it. Though I'm literally kicking the bits under my desk.
