Week 7 of flower and it took a nosedive

[Crusader Rabbit]

If the problems became apparent a week ago and you got the funky clone two weeks ago, I doubt that it was the clone which introduced the pathogens. One week just seems too short a time for the disease to be introduced and manifest itself. Maybe I'm wrong though.

When I saw the title, "Week Seven of Flower and it Took a Nosedive", I thought, "uh oh".

Are you growing in an old house? I read that fusarium (there's many kinds) can live in carpeting and walls. In "Welcome to the Fungal" there is mention of this being a problem in old houses. I've been growing in a very old house and just realized that my fusarium could have been living there longer than I have.

So your Foxfarm soil mix is organic with beneficial microorganisms already mixed in, isn't it?

 

[TheArchitect]

Crusader is probably right, can't say for sure which fungal pathogen, but I can say with almost 100% certainty that its fungal.

 

[blastfrompast]

I tried hooking a air pump up and running small tubes into my pot..didn't help...by then I had watered one too many times...and I just got rid of my girl.

I wish I had tried a strong peroxide mix, as you can REALLY up the dose to the point the soil bubbles and fizes without damaging the plant....it did kill off any beneficials I believe..but I always wanted to know how much I could add..Always wondered if it would have helped get some oxygen into the root system..and at the same time loostening the soil cause of the bubbling action..

I had nothing to lose as I have more than I could possibly use myself....

Also, are you growing in basement and if so...how cold are your floors, and are you plants right on the floor.

 

[Cuban Bee]

Thanks all.

Crusader:

I don't have the Ocean Forest bag, I ran out of my last batch, but i believe it has limited innoculants compared to their "Happy Frog" soil which specifically mentions them. I've been trying to find an image of the back of the bag, but no dice. I have recently begin using their microbe brew (in the last few weeks, per the feeding schedule) but maybe it was too late for this plnat that has been around since October (looong veg waiting for autos in tent to flower).

My house was built in the 1970s, so pretty old, but not ancient.

The room I have my tents in has laminate floors that were installed about 10 years ago. It's a bedroom rather than a basement. Someone had asked about RH before lights on. I have a digital meter that tracks Rh and temps 24/7 and reports on highs and lows. RH between 46-50 constantly. Fans were blowing on the "dead" areas.

So I haven't slashed and burned it all quite yet. What are the feelings on using the good looking tops for some variety of hash/extract? Will a bubble bag split the spores from trichomes? Will ISO kill them? Will there be toxins left over anyway? I was thinking maybe bubble and then iso the bubble (since I've had some gross looking plain ISO). Would all be new to me, but you know, it's pretty hard to let go of what appeared to be 4+ ounces.

Thanks again all, one way or another, she's getting removed from the room today and I'm cleaning. Although Hampy and Crusader's threads don't seem to point towards sterilization being entirely effective post infection...

 

[Cuban Bee]

Also, another bit of thinking on how I got the infection. We had a terrible crop of tomatoes this year in my outdoor garden. Runty little buggers they never took off. I blamed my planting location (some high clay soil), but I wonder if this is related after reading about fusarium and tomatoes. The outdoor garden is of course outside, but there could have been cross contamination I suppose.

 

[Crusader Rabbit]

Well I'm a slave to THC and I smoked the good bud off my infected plants. I then later read about the possible lung infection. I'm still here. Seems that ISO would kill spores or whatever the different reproductive particles are called. On my wilted tops I could never see anything with the hand lens that looked like a spore bearing structure. If it is the toxins that are causing the tops to wither, then it seems unwithered tops wouldn't have a significant amount. But I'm just speculating here. We both know what the most prudent thing to do is, but that isn't always the voice we follow.

Your idea of bubble bags then ISO sounds realistic. That way you're only dealing with trichomes and not leaching other plant tissues. Of course you'll always wonder if your bubble bag is contaminated.

That tomato story sounds like it might be the explanation. Any gardening tools that were brought inside to the grow? Anyway, don't plant tomatoes in that same location again this year.

Best of luck to you.

 

[Cuban Bee]

Thanks again Crusader and everyone else for their input. I think you hit the nail on the head with in terms of what the prudent thing to do is. Being honest with myself, i will probably try bubble+iso and get a set of bags just for this run. At least put the buds triple bagged in the freezer and ruminate on it for now.

Amen on the tomatoes. I didn't share tools but

1- They were outside the window
2-The scrog screen is also from my yeard. I did give it a once over with bleach water, but I'm sure i could have been more meticulous or just brought fresh screen.

How do I plus rep on this site, you guys deserve a ton.

Thanks again, hopefully my next posts will be about how great my other plants are doing. Dark Devil and Tha Shiznit Autos coming down in the next couple weeks and THEY look mighty fine.

 

[Crusader Rabbit]

This quote is from an article on Fusarium oxysporum infection of tomatoes. Note the recommendation to keep soil pH at 6.5 or higher. The act of handling a rootball when transplanting tomatoes would have placed spores upon your hands.

Ecology and Life Cycle

Fusarium wilt is a warm-weather disease, most prevalent on acid, sandy soils. The pathogen is soilborne and remains in infested soils for up to ten years. Soil and air temperatures of 28°C are optimum for disease. Too warm (34°C) or too cool (17-20°C) soils retard wilt development. If soil temperatures are optimum but air temperatures below optimum, the pathogen will extend into the lower parts of the stem, but the plants will not exhibit external symptoms. In general, factors favoring wilt development are: soil and air temperatures of 28°C, soil moisture optimum for plant growth, plants preconditioned with low nitrogen and phosphorus and high potassium, low soil pH, short day length, and low light intensity. Virulence of the pathogen is enhanced by micronutrients, phosphorus, and ammonium nitrogen and decreased by nitrate nitrogen. The pathogen enters the plant through the roots and is then spread throughout the plant by the vascular system.

Dissemination of the pathogen is via seed, tomato stakes, soil, and infected transplants or infested soil adhering to transplants. The pathogen could be disseminated long distance through seed and transplants. Local dissemination is by transplants, tomato stakes, windborne and waterborne infested soil, and farm machinery.


Disease Control

Control measure is mainly through the use of resistant cultivars. The control of races 1 and 2 utilizes both polygenic and monogenic resistance while monogenic resistance to race 3 has been developed. Pasteurization of infested soil with steam or fumigants, raise the soil pH to 6.5-7.0, and usage of nitrate nitrogen rather than ammonium nitrogen help to reduce the incidence of wilted plants and greatly increases marketable and total yields.

http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/course/pp728/Fusarium/Fusarium_oxysporum.htm