Week 6 flower, leaves dying off

[Themagnata]

My plants lower leaves are yellowing and falling off.. does anyone know what this means?
This leaves don't get any light.. maybe that's why they're dying?

 

[troutman]

It happens when plants are almost finished and when nutrients are low.
The bottom leaves feed the plants. Low light levels will do that also.

 

[Growenhaft]

that is correct.

but a few other things are not right here.
I see too few and too small fruit heads for the 6th week of flowering ... a negative flower / leaf ratio.
you have too many plants in pots that are too small for the medium of soil. if you want to grow a lot of plants in small pots,
coco would be the better choice for you ... but even there there should be a small distance between the pots
... so that the oxygen which the roots need is better circulated in this zone. if the roots do not absorb oxygen, this interferes with the absorption of co2 via the leaves
... while co2 can be transported within the plant, this is not the case with oxygen ... our plants have no way of transporting it, there are no ways to do it.
oxygen has to be absorbed where it is needed.

In addition, their lower leaves hang limply ... others are strangely twisted ... and die in the middle of the plant ... that speaks for a too high salt content in the soil.
All of this together means that the plants fall short of their expectations.

you have removed too many leaves and shoots below. you also need functioning shade leaves in the suction ... they are important for the co2 absorption, to cool the plant and for hormone production as a whole, they are in the right proportion to the sun leaves. the shadow leaves drive the sun leaves up in the production of the hormones which are responsible for large and many fruit heads.

 

[Creeperpark]

It's just a watering issue. If you water every day then that is the problem because the containers are too small for the plants. What size are the containers and how often do you water?

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I think this is nitrogen deficiency in flowering. The yellowing but intact leaves, the clawing, the fact that it moves up the plant and is a mobile deficiency (N, P, K, Mg).

The reason of course is the size of the pots, however this is a sea of green grow, so these are the pots we've chosen.

 

[Themagnata]

I think this is nitrogen deficiency in flowering. The yellowing but intact leaves, the clawing, the fact that it moves up the plant and is a mobile deficiency (N, P, K, Mg).

The reason of course is the size of the pots, however this is a sea of green grow, so these are the pots we've chosen.

I think plants in small pots like this need to be fed more often

 

[Growenhaft]

plants in such small pots with the medium soil have to be fed with every watering process. However, it is important to keep the salt content, the degree of humidity and the ph value in the medium under control. this works much worse with little soil in the pot. other media are much better suited for this ... coco is predestined for this.

with such small pots you always need a drain ... to keep the medium under control. Your plants can only loosen nutrients from the soil if the salt content inside the plant is higher than in the soil ... it takes place via osmosis. if the salt content in the soil rises ... because you cannot get the root exudates out of the pot without a drain ... the salt content within the plant will rise steadily ... a lot of salt in the plant means few and small flowers.

look, plants don't like it when they are touched ... not even by other plants ... you need a minimum amount of free space in order to be able to develop unhindered. this is of enormous importance, especially in the young stages of the plant. every prolonged touch has an effect on the hormone balance ... thus on the metabolism of the plant as a whole.

this knowledge is important for a cultivation technique like sea of ​​green. otherwise you harvest between 10-25 grams dry weight per plant. that is not the aim of this cultivation technique.

Maybe you can see that in the pictures ... it's chessboard. this ensures that the plants do not touch each other until as late as possible in a sea of ​​green ... can develop fully without negative influence. only in the middle of the stretch, after switching to flowering, do the plants touch each other ... in this stadium positive things can happen ... because the hormonal effects of the touch go well with this strong growth. the branches in the center take advantage of every gap in the canopy many compact flowers emerge. the most important thing about this technique is to practice it correctly ... otherwise, in the end, you will not see any real added value on the surface.

the area is what is decisive in a sea of ​​green ... and the area that the pot takes up at the bottom with the distances to the other pots is also the area that receives active light above. this area is significantly smaller for you.

these plants here were in bloom 28 days after germination. The change was made on December 7th ... meanwhile the stretch is almost complete. each of these plants will end up yielding between 80 and 120 grams dry.

 

[GoatCheese]

It’s under watering issue. the soil looks too dry in the photos. The lower leaves are yellowing cause the plant is draining moisture out of the lower leaves/leaves in shade to keep the tops under the lights well hydrated.. Nutrient levels look fine cause the upper canopy looks healthy green. You've just been underwatering them for a good while

 

[Growenhaft]

then it will be better now that the problem is recognized .... definitely. if it gets worse ... well then that's what it is.

 

[Themagnata]

that is correct.

but a few other things are not right here.
I see too few and too small fruit heads for the 6th week of flowering ... a negative flower / leaf ratio.
you have too many plants in pots that are too small for the medium of soil. if you want to grow a lot of plants in small pots,
coco would be the better choice for you ... but even there there should be a small distance between the pots
... so that the oxygen which the roots need is better circulated in this zone. if the roots do not absorb oxygen, this interferes with the absorption of co2 via the leaves
... while co2 can be transported within the plant, this is not the case with oxygen ... our plants have no way of transporting it, there are no ways to do it.
oxygen has to be absorbed where it is needed.

In addition, their lower leaves hang limply ... others are strangely twisted ... and die in the middle of the plant ... that speaks for a too high salt content in the soil.
All of this together means that the plants fall short of their expectations.

you have removed too many leaves and shoots below. you also need functioning shade leaves in the suction ... they are important for the co2 absorption, to cool the plant and for hormone production as a whole, they are in the right proportion to the sun leaves. the shadow leaves drive the sun leaves up in the production of the hormones which are responsible for large and many fruit heads.

Hum i understand, and I'm going to get the plants a bit away from each other.. the pots are also too small, this was A big mistake i only came to realize now.. would it make sense to transplant the plants at this point ? Or should I just let them finish?

And I'm interested in knowing how and why coco would be a better option for what I'm trying to do, could you explain this better?

 

[Themagnata]

plants in such small pots with the medium soil have to be fed with every watering process. However, it is important to keep the salt content, the degree of humidity and the ph value in the medium under control. this works much worse with little soil in the pot. other media are much better suited for this ... coco is predestined for this.

with such small pots you always need a drain ... to keep the medium under control. Your plants can only loosen nutrients from the soil if the salt content inside the plant is higher than in the soil ... it takes place via osmosis. if the salt content in the soil rises ... because you cannot get the root exudates out of the pot without a drain ... the salt content within the plant will rise steadily ... a lot of salt in the plant means few and small flowers.

look, plants don't like it when they are touched ... not even by other plants ... you need a minimum amount of free space in order to be able to develop unhindered. this is of enormous importance, especially in the young stages of the plant. every prolonged touch has an effect on the hormone balance ... thus on the metabolism of the plant as a whole.

this knowledge is important for a cultivation technique like sea of ​​green. otherwise you harvest between 10-25 grams dry weight per plant. that is not the aim of this cultivation technique.



Maybe you can see that in the pictures ... it's chessboard. this ensures that the plants do not touch each other until as late as possible in a sea of ​​green ... can develop fully without negative influence. only in the middle of the stretch, after switching to flowering, do the plants touch each other ... in this stadium positive things can happen ... because the hormonal effects of the touch go well with this strong growth. the branches in the center take advantage of every gap in the canopy many compact flowers emerge. the most important thing about this technique is to practice it correctly ... otherwise, in the end, you will not see any real added value on the surface.

the area is what is decisive in a sea of ​​green ... and the area that the pot takes up at the bottom with the distances to the other pots is also the area that receives active light above. this area is significantly smaller for you.



these plants here were in bloom 28 days after germination. The change was made on December 7th ... meanwhile the stretch is almost complete. each of these plants will end up yielding between 80 and 120 grams dry.

That grow looks nice! But I'm a bit confused, should the plants touch each other or not? Because i see your plants leafs touch each other.. also are you using coco? And what size are those pots? I also see that you have a lot of lower growth, i thought this was supposed to cut off because these branches can't really get to the light and will take unnecessary energy from the plant..

 

[GMT]

When did you start to count? When you switched lighting times or when you saw pistils?
when you started flowering nutes, did you also stop veg nutes completely?
How long is the flower time of this strain?
What's the airflow? Blowing on the bottom of the plants / non existent?
Any pest problems?

 

[f-e]

Their hanging. They need more water. A typical bag of soil shouldn't get any drier than how it's purchased.

 

[Themagnata]

Their hanging. They need more water. A typical bag of soil shouldn't get any drier than how it's purchased.

Can they even recover?

 

[f-e]

What's done is done, but they look like they have a bit of time left, in which they could do better. If you have any seaweed or humus like products they might help. As might any microlife products. Just to get the soil health back on track asap. Trying to fix it with a change to your feed would be risky, and I don't actually know what they are getting to offer any advice. Which would only be for the next feed or two anyway. I think a little soak, or some wetting agent might be useful. It depends how eager they are to take water on.

 

[Themagnata]

When did you start to count? When you switched lighting times or when you saw pistils?
when you started flowering nutes, did you also stop veg nutes completely?
How long is the flower time of this strain?
What's the airflow? Blowing on the bottom of the plants / non existent?
Any pest problems?

i started counting when I switched the lights.
I'm following Biobizz feeding chart.
This strains supposedly have 9 weeks (Banana krumble) and 12 weeks ( Lemon cheese) flowering time..
Airflow is non existent, no fans! I'm going to buy some fans today.
No pest problems!

 

[Growenhaft]

And I'm interested in knowing how and why coco would be a better option for what I'm trying to do, could you explain this better?

at the same time, it stores significantly more water with nutrients and air than earth could.
this means that the medium is rooted much better than it would be with earth. The most important point, however, is that with cocofiber you do not have a strong influence on the values ​​through the life of the soil, through decomposition processes such as putrefaction, putrefaction, etc. thus the medium can be kept within a stable range of values ​​much more easily.

1l of cocofiber is roughly equivalent to 3.5l of earth for the provision of air and nutrient-rich water.

But I'm a little confused, should the plants touch or not?

only during the stretching phase ... if they touch each other while they are growing, this usually has a negative effect on the hormonal balance of the plant. During the stretching phase, when the plant changes from growth hormone to stronger growth hormones, the negative effects on development remain away. what happens there? when plants come into contact with each other, hormones are produced which have an influence on root excretions. With this root exudate, plants fight each other ... to defend their root zone so that no other plant steals their space and nutrients.

this "war" starts underground ... because the roots would meet first. it must be quite confusing for the plant to perceive contact above ground without having any contact underground ... they are all in individual pots ... and yet the plants will want to decide the war underground because of the contact above ground. as if these plants will metabolize and produce hormones to produce powerful root excretions. over time, however, these excretions in a pot become a major burden for the plant itself, but above all for the medium. the acid / base balance is disturbed. keep your medium more and more acidic. this has a major impact on the ph value and conductivity. whereby certain nutrients crystallize and lead to salinisation of the medium.

this is the reason why many can "inexplicably" notice a sharp drop in the ph value in the medium ... and also the reason why nutrients are excluded.

That is why it is important in a S.O.G .. to water the pots with excess regardless of the medium in order to get a run-out ... in order to get rid of the root exudates before they can harm the medium and the plant themselves.

as long as there are no roots or leaves touching each other, the plants will not go into war mode ... you will invest all your energy in growth. Investing energy in defense during the growth phase always has a negative impact on the development of the plant ... and thus on the harvest.

therefore make sure that a touch is only divorced during the change in hormones ... and from this point on, watering with excess and drainage.

Incidentally, on coco you would have to work with processes at all times, but on earth the procedure would be as described in order to experience significant added value with an S.O.G compared to other cultivation techniques.

from this information you are not really useful in your current phase.

the fair has been read for this round. you will not be able to compensate for the mistakes made with any change ... but for the future you will need this in order to be able to achieve extraordinary yields.

now it's all about damage limitation.

your biobizz is a mainly organic fertilizer ... that means only 30% of the nutrients are directly available ... the rest must first be converted by soil bacteria so that plants can absorb it. this is also an obstacle ... it would be better to use another fertilizer series that provides 100% of the nutrients available for the plants ... precisely because you have small pots ... thus little soil life in the soil that has enough nutrients in it make available in less time. At sea of ​​green, mineral fertilizers are unbeatable ... our plants feed on minerals ... all the nutrients a plant needs are minerals.

 

[GMT]

That makes sense. Start counting when you see pistils, that's when it's actually starting to flower. So it's about 35 days in at a guess, and that's not 50% of your flower time. You've got time to get a decent yield. Repotting them now would add a few weeks to the total flower time, and could add 50% to your final yield. If you have space and patience it's worth doing. But it's not worth sacrificing plants to give fewer more compost. Those numbers don't add up at this point.
I don't know what environment they are in, open air with light above, tent etc? I've recently found how important airflow is in a tent, less so in naturally ventilated spaces.
The lowest leaves will always die off if they aren't getting light, or if the feeding is a little off. It's when the top ones start dying you have to really worry. Good luck.

 

[GoatCheese]

There’s nothing wrong with BioBizz nutrients and small flowering pots. Cannabis plants grow just fine in 3 litre pots with only/under 50% of the nutrients BioBizz recommends in their feeding schedule.
I have grown with BioBizz nutes for over a decade. I also use 3-5 liter pots all the time cause i lack space. Plants will grow just as well in 3 liter pots as in 12 litre pots with the same amount of nutrients. Of course the yield will be smaller in the 3 liter pot but the plants grow just as healthy green.


OP’s only problem is that he/she has under watered the plants long enough to see yellowing on lower leaves. Also, the buds are small cause they haven’t been getting enough water and so the growth has been slow.
The soil is clearly too dry when you look at the photos. The leaves are drooping like crazy. End of story. It has nothing to do with BioBizz vs. mineral nutrients or small flowering pots.
-
-
There’s no point in re-potting at this stage. The yield has already suffered abit because of under watering and re-potting is only going to disturb the plants even more. Just start watering them more.

 

[GoatCheese]

Here’s a plant i’m flowering atm in 3.5 liters of potting soil. About 60cm tall from the top of the soil.
Fully pollinated after 4 weeks of bloom. At 7 weeks of bloom today.

Nutrients:
BioBizz Grow 1,8ml/L
BioBizz Bloom 1,5 ml/L
Canna calmag 0,5ml/L
+ Enzymes, Hesi Super Vit, sea weed extract and some fulvic acid powder once a week
+ Just plain water every third watering
..this plant actually get’s abit less than that. Every other nutrient feed i’m diluting it with a bit of water, cause it doesn’t need as much nutrients as the other plant i’m making seeds with.

Not even the bottom leaves are yellowing at all. So it is very clear you can grow weed and make seeds in fairly small containers. I’ve even used just a 2 liter rose pot to make small batches of seeds.

The photo isn’t the best but you’ll get the idea..