Water ph'ing methods for outdoor soil

[Cannabis]

They can't pursue using one without the other. I looked online but I don't see any returns for carboniferous bacteria - but I'm willing to bet what I said's right about a bunch of the deep water culture people, having a link to it in their signature.

Most certainly they'll be able to cut out any embellishments I made to the general purpose story.

For a couple of years there, deep water culture was a real big thing all over, and there's a large number of people here, including me, who did it for awhile.

When I get back in I'll look it up tonight I'm surprised I got no returns on google. Maybe they're carbon FIXING bacteria... damn... I wish I could remember exactly.

It's a REALLY common subject for threads it won't take long for somebody to come up with something more definitive.

 

[Cannabis]

Dude, I looked around online, and at first I said "I think, what happened, is I'm conflating, two things."

But actually I think I just can't show you what I'm saying without going on a little hunt for something I know's around wherever there are a lot of people who discuss dwc.

The things I saw online about slime in reservoirs when I did a quickie search is about "thick snot" and I don't see any way to back up probatively what I said, so I'm gonna back off talking more because I can't prove it to you easily. That's why, really.

See the reason you aren't having a lot of people pop in and give us some more low down on the different causes for slime, is there's realy, just the one.

If you were one of my friends at work who knows me, and I knew there'd be an update over time as that person knew more, I'd just stick with what I already said and let it shake itself out because I'm pretty close if not right on about what causes stuff to grow inside a reservoir with ferts.

I mean I realize you don't know me, so you know - that means till you see it somewhere authoritive my word's not worth the paper it's written on, and this isn't written on paper it's written using light.

The phosphorus take-up is part of the life cycle of the entity that makes the slime I want to say "carbon eating" or maybe "carbon fixing"...

I looked on the internet as well and there's nothing really definitive. Search engines are constantly trying to update to keep ahead of scammers so last year's favorite search return can be very, very far from this years.

But obviously if something can build a substance that becomes a scum on your water, it's a reasonably highly organized entity that takes up more nutrients than just one or two or something.

=======

Incidentally, people fixed that problem in deep water circulation grows, ultimately, by installing an aquarium filter.

My mom had started and run a tropical fish shop. When I had my dwc I had initially gone that route, too; and it did, in fact, work.

But:

I knew I'd not always use biofiltration
so I still went over to sulfuric acid

just almost, straightway
because it was concentrated; I was in Nevada and the water was pretty hard. It's not so hard where I live now.

I abandoned eventually the dwc for aeroponics, and some aquaponics, teaching my wife a few different grow systems,
then just kicked it back to various passive hydro, and passive soilless, because they're so trouble free.

 

[Cannabis]

In a reservoir of water there are only about five classes of chinglies you're ever gonna see, just going down a list in my head.

There's pythium fungus which is root rot. Roots become darkened, soft and lifeless seeming, if you pull on one, the outer part breaks off leaving a very thin hairlike inner root element and nothing else.

There's the kind of carbon fixing/carbon eating, fungus/bacteria we're talking about. They make scum and snotlike growths in fertilized water, fixing phosphorus into the scum they make.

There's the kind of aerobic, oxygen-breathing bacteria that process decay, like those that live inside an aquarium filter, turning fish waste and dead this & that, into nutrient soup for water plants to feed on,

There's the kind of anaerobic bacteria that process decay, and typically there aren't very many in aquariums, but if I recall right, it's those, consuming the slime from the ones I told you I think are all that same class, that cause that smell like sewer or something dead when you add carbon containing substance.
That class of anaerobic bacteria are the ones associated with MOST of what we all think of, as an 'odor of decay.'

There could be more I'm forgetting, but at least you have some kind of an idea how wide the spread is you'll be seeing.

There are obviously the algaes and all that, and you'll have to figure all that out; a real good place to get linked to a bunch of no-bullshit explanations is at plumbing sites. If you've got a problem in your reservoir just describe it and then type "watering trough" or "koi pond" or "toilet bowl" or some kind of implement you can dream of, where people keep water.

The household plumbing places never fail to give up full account of all that grows in water along with the "koi pond" people.

I've already said too much without saying anything much; good luck with your pH

If I have conflated two, into one, I'm sorry about that, but I don't think I have; Maybe.

 

[Webster10]

Does anyone know how to pH water using general hydroponics if your nutes are colored? Thank you

 

[Cannabis]

If you're using paper put some of the fert water on a piece of white paper. How much it stains that paper is how much it's going to steer the color of the paper strips.

It's usually not very much. It'll make the color look deeper, but typically not a lot redder; generally the eye's ability, and particularly the practiced/and/or/trained eye's ability, to tell the difference, is evident in the fact the strips are sold, based on the capacity to tell that very thing.

When companies peddling paper strips impregnate their paper, with the chemical they rely on, there's a certain potential threat of liability demanding a need for their stuff
to give back accurate results people will trust their (name it: reputation/equipment/business/industrial certification) to. People don't tend to steal em so much, they're tougher, no need for batteries, the whole bag, and industry generally doesn't demand more. Because more stability than the paper yields, isn't common in nature.

Obviously a lot of people need a meter. Being raised in the aquarium business, putting myself through two summers of electronic engineering school at a plant nursery,
I don't want to attract weirdos who think there's something I haven't thought about; we're talking about carrying shit into the woods and humpin' it in. The hard way a lot of the time. Hell when you're old like me, "outsides the friggin hard way LoL. Is that a rain cloud? Oh shit! Duck!"

They know there are people out there,
with dark mixtures of various kinds, types,
so they aren't created, in the kind of vacuum,
that exists in the heads,
of technology worship nerds.

When you use a darker mixture putting it onto a piece of white paper and realizing the color's been steered toward the red,
that amount, is all you've gotta have.

There's a caveat to using dyes to pH your solutions and it's the fact that genetic color blindness affects red/green perception.

Since the comparison method is a gradation there's not a lot of threat to your ability to read the dyes' respective green or red color; the comparison strips will be grayed out as well, and to the identical amount, so unless your red/green vision is pretty bad, most people, can actually do okay with them. '

You can and you should, google "red/green color blindness test" and if you don't flunk pretty bad, and you're a sharp person, you can prolly use strips. If your color blindness is moderately bad, AND you're not trained to discriminate red/green in spite of it, maybe you need a meter. They're only freakin ten bucks online, no kiddn. you don't have to have a nice pH meter, you just have to know to keep the glass bulb wet with 4.01 out of the bottle, and don't store it in 7.0 solution, or, in distilled, or 10.0 solution. You condition the glass bulbs according to the side of neutral, 7, you're gonna measure. If you measure alkaline stuff a lot, you store it in 10.0
If you measure on the just LOW side of 7, you store it in the 4.0

It's actually sold as 4.01 but don't fret, that's not important in usage of the meter at the field user's end, it's a 'standard recipe to hit 4.0 on the money' type thing.

---------------------

There's a way of course to try to actually offset the whole thing; that's to spray the paper with the water, and let it dry, a few times, till the paper piece you wet,
- when it is dry,
about the color it is, when it's wet with fert water.

Then put it through a printer and copy onto it, the colored comparison strips.

In still other words, print the color comparison chart on tinted paper.

If there's a decent printing place nearby, you can do it the civilized man's way and just print the color comparison strip, out onto tinted paper without Mad Maxing yourself with a spray bottle of ferts. You print it out on paper that's the same tint or so, as paper waterlogged with the fert solution.

It's not a violation of credible instrumentation principles to do it: even printing the color strips out on paper dyed, so it's the color of white paper, soaked with fert solution.

It's just people never do it because you don't really need to, plus the existence of modern meters.

Does anyone know how to pH water using general hydroponics if your nutes are colored? Thank you

Anyway good luck with your pH'ing expeditions.