Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[hoosierdaddy]

FWIW, I think folks obsess over nutrient values and such. Oh yeah, it is scientific and all..and can even be fun to do, but I find myself far less concerned about such things as the years go by. The KISS (keep it simple stupid) method seems to work best in most all instances of growing pot, for me anyway. I have done some ad hoc comparisons of differing nutrient levels and mediums, and yes you can find a place where a specific cultivar may well do better than with any other regimens or mediums. But all in all, if plants are happy and things are balanced, they will do well. And it doesn't really take manipulating the numbers to make things turn out well.

And it is easier to screw something up when you have so many products and ratios, yada yada yada...and yes I know folks are quite apable of keeping up with such things, I am just saying that increased product and method introduces more room for failure.

Then consider that most hobby growers like to grow a variety of plants, and each one may have different needs. Unless you grow out a specific plant for several grows, you really aren't going to dial it in anyway...due to many things, but plant maturity would be one of them. It may well like things one way when first run, but after it has been run a time or two it may change it's character a bit.

My method is to use a local veg salts fert that is loaded with macro and micro nutrients at about half strength through veg. I will feed and then water maybe two or three times before feeding again. I feed them right before going into flower.

In flower, I feed them recommended dosages of PBPflower and LK with plain waterings about every third time. I will often give a shot of h2o2 at 30ml/gal to keep roots happy, guard against medium pests, and keep anaerobic bacteria away.

When I have three weeks or so before harvest, I like to super flush the plant with about 2-3 times the amount of water as the container could hold empty. This flushes collected salts out. I may even use an ionic solution flush first time. And from then on all the plant gets is water until harvest. I want the leaves bleached out from eating all available nutrients up and actually starting to cannibalize themselves and fall off. This makes for real tasty weed. And flushing is sort of controversial with folks, as many don't see the difference, but I sure do taste things that are out of sorts if I do not flush them and feed up till harvest. I see absolutely no difference in a plant that was fed until chop and it's clone that was flushed for three weeks, other than taste.

I use water right out of the tap...maybe outgassed a day, maybe not.
I don't test my pH.
I don't test my EC.
I am far more obsessed with keeping pests at bay than with my nutrients.
I try to keep it as stupidly simple as I can and I don't really ever have issues with deficiencies or lacking yields.

 

[2Lazy]

I think my question is geared towards hydroponic growers then. The soil regiment is nice, but if I'm going to do soil I'm going organic. I'm hoping to learn more of the "why" a person would add nutrient X, and when, and how much. In hydroponics the plants respond quickly to changes in nutrient levels and the lack of a nutrient buffer makes the detailed understanding of what a plant needs BEFORE it shows the problem important to me.

Your answer didn't really touch on the why. Kind of like how a person might say "I just stick the key in the ignition and drive it. I don't care how the engine works. It just does. Sometimes I put gas in the tank when the needle says to."

I am not an "it just works" personality. I need to know how and why. Conceptual detail is my game.

The whole "KISS" theory is great and all, but does NASA listen to KISS? Do college botany departments? It is my understanding they are interested in getting it right.

I've run just Coco A&B with Cal-Mag and Liquid Karma. I was simple, mix 10ml of A, 10ml of B, 10ml of Cal-Mag and 10ml of LK. Boom-boom. Deficiencies. I can't agree that KISS is the best method. It might work for people that don't understand organic molecules, electrical equilibriums, and osmotic action. I do. I know soil chemistry solid. I know hydro chemistry solid. And I know how a plant works and what problems look like.

I don't deal with pests. I grow indoors. From seed. The place is sealed up from bugs really well. Thus my attention is not with pests. It's with the deficiencies I see. Lately, all I've been trying to find is a regiment that someone uses, and WHY they use it. What is their reasoning?

This question is like having teeth pulled.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Perhaps some Novocaine then?

 

[lilgreendude]

excuse me. sorry to enterupt but i need a litte help with my plants they are all wilty and its like it is spreading this is my mom and one of her girls can anyone give my a sulution t/y

 

[emerald city]

I think my question is geared towards hydroponic growers then. The soil regiment is nice, but if I'm going to do soil I'm going organic. I'm hoping to learn more of the "why" a person would add nutrient X, and when, and how much. In hydroponics the plants respond quickly to changes in nutrient levels and the lack of a nutrient buffer makes the detailed understanding of what a plant needs BEFORE it shows the problem important to me.

Your answer didn't really touch on the why. Kind of like how a person might say "I just stick the key in the ignition and drive it. I don't care how the engine works. It just does. Sometimes I put gas in the tank when the needle says to."

I am not an "it just works" personality. I need to know how and why. Conceptual detail is my game.

The whole "KISS" theory is great and all, but does NASA listen to KISS? Do college botany departments? It is my understanding they are interested in getting it right.

I've run just Coco A&B with Cal-Mag and Liquid Karma. I was simple, mix 10ml of A, 10ml of B, 10ml of Cal-Mag and 10ml of LK. Boom-boom. Deficiencies. I can't agree that KISS is the best method. It might work for people that don't understand organic molecules, electrical equilibriums, and osmotic action. I do. I know soil chemistry solid. I know hydro chemistry solid. And I know how a plant works and what problems look like.

I don't deal with pests. I grow indoors. From seed. The place is sealed up from bugs really well. Thus my attention is not with pests. It's with the deficiencies I see. Lately, all I've been trying to find is a regiment that someone uses, and WHY they use it. What is their reasoning?

This question is like having teeth pulled.

Dont think i can help,but i am extreamly interested..Since changing ferts almost 2 years ago,ive been dealing with the same type of symptom's only im useing promix as a medium...Perfect looking in vegitative state,clone upwards of 100% then i change cycles, around week 2 of bud differant symptoms start showing up..First thought- it was ph drop off at the end, So we added extra lime,to much calcium[plus my hardwell water]i believe was causeing "floculation"bonding with pottasium and percipiateing out of range/or ability of the roots to be able to pick up...that was the theroy anyways...We next changed over to the General hydro line of nutes....Those ferts drove my ph numbers way high compared to say peters professional line of agi ferts from where id come.....Every freakin change upset the apple cart so to speak and took/is still takeing way to much time to dial in.....Ive started taking notes on how i feed ,when,ammounts...to see which approach has the best results..We try to eliminate All Potential posibilitys..no mites,no powdery mildue....Trying differant products increasing the benificial fungi/bacteria in the root zone to aid nutrient absorbtion and plant stress.....
I know this sad commentary dont help your problem but is more ment to demonstrate there our others in the same boat who would like to figure out the problems were having....Will be interested to hear how your making out in the future.. E.C

 

[emerald city]

excuse me. sorry to enterupt but i need a litte help with my plants they are all wilty and its like it is spreading this is my mom and one of her girls can anyone give my a sulution t/y

looks like over fertilization.

 

[GrowinFaT]

Spider mites....I have noticed them on a few plants so am trying to take care of them asap.
I am on the 4th day of flowering. No flowers yet.
I got this stuff called "zero Tolerance" its an herbal pesticide...and Doktor Doom spider mite knock out. It says to use every few days...anyone have an opinion on that or how they would suggest to use it, or what else to use?

IV heard raising humidity levels helps also?

Should I avid the room? Would that affect the plants or flowers in this stage?

TEMPERATURE is at 84F now that I added a seperate dehumidifier to the 12000btu a/c.
I have 4 1000watts in the room, the temp was at 81.5F before adding the seperate duhidifier.
The room is sealed.
Lights are also air cooled.
Oscillating fans in room.

I am spraying co2 at 1500ppms into the room.

Is my temperature too high?

Any ideas?

 

[HempKat]

I have a question.

The last 2 grows of mine have gone splendidly during veg. 40+ days of lush, green, healthy vegetation top to bottom.

I don't change anything but my light cycle, but as soon as I do suddenly all these effing problems start showing up.

Usually it starts as a kind of potassium issue. Then it's a magnesium issue. Then it's a phosphorus issue.

My feeding is the same, do my plant's really need that much more crap during flowering? It always appears as a deficiency despite running at the maximum suggested levels from Canna (Coco). The idea that "less is more" in flowering really has screwed my plants, especially in the last grow.

So basically, I've got veg down pat. With 6 grows under my belt I still haven't figured out what the fuck is going on in flowering. So I search and search for nutrient feeding schedules that actual people use (not what is from the mfg) and low and behold, not a single good one in 4 forums I've looked and searched through.

People list what they use, sure, and they'll throw out some arbitrary PPM EC info, but it never really gets specific.

Do you need an ass load of potassium in week 1 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of magnesium in weeks 2 and 3 like I do?
Do you need an ass load of phosphorus in weeks 4 and 5 like I do?

If someone around here would PLEASE look at https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3704978&postcount=269 that might really help me out.

So what regiments do you use? When do you increase or decrease specific supplements, and specifically how much? I've been searching for weeks now for a definitive answer on flowering methods from growers and not a single person can give a detailed analysis.

Thanks. Oh, and if I kill this thread too I am sorry. I have a tendency to scare off experienced growers and killing threads. I can't count how many times I've been the last person to post in something around here.

Well this thread has been going for about 4 years now so I don't think it's going to die easily.

Well gee, um ah I think your problem is you're wanting something too specific and your'e not going to get that because there are too many variables. feeding requirements vary strain to strain and then everyone (well maybe not literally everyone) has their own little special twist to things.

In general it's pretty simple in veg you need mostly nitrogen so you go for NPK's like 5-1-1 but be careful not all ferts contain micronutrients. Things like iron, calcium and magnesium. If it's not in your fert you may need to add a micronutrient supplent every couple of weeks such as a product called Earthjuice Microblast. When you first go into flower some people stay on with the veg ferts for another week or two during the stretch phase and then when they see the flowers starting to form they switch to a flower fert. In flower you don't need much nitrogen, the primary nutrient used during flowering is phospherous but more potassium is also needed so generally you want to look for an NPK ratio of 1-3-2 so that it's mostly phosperous and higher then veg levels of potassium and very little nitrogen. Micronutrients are needed throughout the plant's life so again if the flower fert doesn't have them you'll need to add them every so often.

As far as a schedule that's going to depend on things like medium, what size pot, temps, humidity etc. In general what I like to do is throughout, whether it be veg or flower I give the plant water/food one feeding, water/food the next feeding and then every third feeding I give just water. How far apart the feedings are depends on how well developed the roots are but for most of the time it's every three days. Once I get to a week from harvest then I just give water from that point on.

Most people that I know don't work with their plant's food nutrient by nutrient so I can't tell you about increasing or decreasing other then switching from the veg fert to the flower fert. At that point it could be said you're increasing the potassium and phospherous while decreasing the nitrogen.

The magnesium is a special issue, marijuana needs it to maintain healthy functions and as such most ferts have magnesium but usually not enough. Many soil growers like to add dolomite lime to their soil mix to buffer the ph but also dolomite lime is and excellent source of calcium and magnesium. If you find you're suffering a magnesium deficiency even though it is in the ferts and the medium then one quick way to add some is to add some epsom salt to the watering (It's been a long time since I've had to do that though so I've forgotten the rate to add it at, sorry)

 

[HempKat]

Thanks, but no, not really.

I think what you linked is the problem I'm having, not the solution. Maybe buried somewhere in those 81 pages is something good, I'm just hoping that I don't need to click "next page" and read about personal vendetta's, hearsay, and useless one line posts with a mile of sig beneath it. I'll be honest with you all. This site is half barren waste land, half over-flowering junk yard, and the search function doesn't work well enough to manage it all. Hell, google search brings up better results than forum searches.

I'm looking for specific levels of nutrients during specific phases of growth.

The general sort of "6ml of this and 9ml" is fine... but for what point in the grow? I assume for late veg and early flowering.

What I'm looking for is for an experienced grower to try and give me some idea of where the nutrients need to be at in their own grow on practically a day to day basis. When they change, what they change to, that sort of thing. I can concede that there are different strains, and all kinds of nutrients, media, methods, etc.

What I'm looking to do is get out of reactionary mode and move in to anticipatory mode. Every grow I get closer to the gold standard, but it'd be nice to hear from someone that on the average "around the end of the 2nd week of vegetative life I supplement a large amount of cal-mag. I do this again for the first 3 weeks of flowering with a little nitrogen boost as well." I mean, maybe not in so many (or few) words, but something like that would be extremely beneficial to myself, an advanced grower working on mastery.

I don't think a 6ml/9ml solution is what anyone would run for the entire grow. There's a seedling stage. There's a ripening stage. What do they run then? Why does no one seem to think this information is important? I like to think of myself as a fairly intelligent guy with a high level understanding of both chemistry and biology. I want to know what you add, when, and why. Not for just one moment of the grow. Start to finish.

As an example: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3668339&postcount=60

Please take the time to check out the post I made. If you read through it you'll see the kind of "format" I'm looking for. I wrote it 14 days ago. So that gives you an idea of how long I've been looking...

Thanks homies.

Okay well I see the problem for sure, you're trying to complicate things too much. Marijuana is not that difficult to grow, it does not reguire one to have to do a bunch of different things at certain points. Remember, it grows wild in nature with only what's naturally in the soil and rain to feed it. Just give it a decent veg fert with occasional micronutrient supplements if the micros aren't already in the veg fert. Do this from the first sign they need food (usually week 3 to 4 of veg) until you go to flower, then switch to a flowering fert. Give that until it's almost time to harvest at which point you give just water. There's a bunch of other stuff you can add to get this result and that result but if the fert is a good one and the grow environment is right, you don't need anything else.

 

[HempKat]

I think my question is geared towards hydroponic growers then. The soil regiment is nice, but if I'm going to do soil I'm going organic. I'm hoping to learn more of the "why" a person would add nutrient X, and when, and how much. In hydroponics the plants respond quickly to changes in nutrient levels and the lack of a nutrient buffer makes the detailed understanding of what a plant needs BEFORE it shows the problem important to me.

Your answer didn't really touch on the why. Kind of like how a person might say "I just stick the key in the ignition and drive it. I don't care how the engine works. It just does. Sometimes I put gas in the tank when the needle says to."

I am not an "it just works" personality. I need to know how and why. Conceptual detail is my game.

The whole "KISS" theory is great and all, but does NASA listen to KISS? Do college botany departments? It is my understanding they are interested in getting it right.

I've run just Coco A&B with Cal-Mag and Liquid Karma. I was simple, mix 10ml of A, 10ml of B, 10ml of Cal-Mag and 10ml of LK. Boom-boom. Deficiencies. I can't agree that KISS is the best method. It might work for people that don't understand organic molecules, electrical equilibriums, and osmotic action. I do. I know soil chemistry solid. I know hydro chemistry solid. And I know how a plant works and what problems look like.

I don't deal with pests. I grow indoors. From seed. The place is sealed up from bugs really well. Thus my attention is not with pests. It's with the deficiencies I see. Lately, all I've been trying to find is a regiment that someone uses, and WHY they use it. What is their reasoning?

This question is like having teeth pulled.

If you know all these things then you should know what to add and when. In veg a plant needs nitrogen and micronutrients. In flower a plant needs phospherous and potassium. During the point the buds are rapidly growing you may want to boost the phospherous a bit higher and micronutrients are still needed on a regular basis. NASA doesn't grow pot and few college botany departments grow pot. Marijuana is a weed, a weed that Mother Nature has evolved quite nicely such that it does not need some human who thinks he knows what the plant needs better then Mother nature.

 

[HempKat]

excuse me. sorry to enterupt but i need a litte help with my plants they are all wilty and its like it is spreading this is my mom and one of her girls can anyone give my a sulution t/y

We need more information about how you've been handling them, looks like some form of moisture stress but I can't tell for sure without knowing some history.

 

[ericcalif]

Well generally something smelling rotten from the pots is a sign of root rot usually caused by over watering but also caused by having one pot with soil more compacted then others. In either case the wet soil is just sitting there stagnent and the roots are being smothered by it, so they begin to rot and that's what smells. Now it is also possible that it's the soil because you had to switch up but since it sounded like it built up over time that's more like root rot would be.

The washing out you did was probably a good move to get as much of the funky stuff out of there as possible but now you really got to be careful not to water them too much, they likely will take longer between waterings until they recover. You're probably right about your harvest projections.

Overall it kind of sounds like you need a break but not just because a person can get in a rut but more because growing in the summer is always tougher and having a sub par crop isn't really unusual. Better to just try to build up enough to allow yourself to take the summer off. Less headaches and disappointments all the way around.

Now if taking a break isn't possible then just keep in mind that in the summer your indoor grow is going to be tested as hard as it will ever be. So since you'll always have this stress kind of present you really have to dot all your i's and cross all your t's on everything else. Take nothing for granted. If a soil seems wrong somehow don't use it. If you're using left over ferts just because it always lowered your ph a certain amount before, don't assume the ph level of it hasn't changed with age. Things like that.

Thxs bud, that makes alot of sense. I "think" the root rot might be from the root aphid infestation that I'm hoping is eradicated now. I'm thinking of going a diff direction with soil, maybe coco or an alternative. The Imid seems to have totally wiped out the aphid issue, I dont have a single flyer caught in traps in days now, but the recovery will take awhile obviously.
Point about watering noted, I think one of the ONLY things I have down is watering, but man it's been a learning curve. And thanks for your additions to that.
Also, point noted re: summertime. As you know, I don't NEED to put out much, the last couple rounds have come out good enough for my med patient friend so she's good for awhile.
Researching soil brands and the possibility of coco or similar, and may just take your advice and take a month off, let the burnt ladies do whatever little they will and start fresh with a few seeds.

 

[HempKat]

Spider mites....I have noticed them on a few plants so am trying to take care of them asap.
I am on the 4th day of flowering. No flowers yet.
I got this stuff called "zero Tolerance" its an herbal pesticide...and Doktor Doom spider mite knock out. It says to use every few days...anyone have an opinion on that or how they would suggest to use it, or what else to use?

IV heard raising humidity levels helps also?

Should I avid the room? Would that affect the plants or flowers in this stage?

TEMPERATURE is at 84F now that I added a seperate dehumidifier to the 12000btu a/c.
I have 4 1000watts in the room, the temp was at 81.5F before adding the seperate duhidifier.
The room is sealed.
Lights are also air cooled.
Oscillating fans in room.

I am spraying co2 at 1500ppms into the room.

Is my temperature too high?

Any ideas?

No your temp isn't too high for a co2 supplied room. If you didn't have co2 going then yes but with c02 I think you can let temps get in the 90's before you have problems.

Fortunately for me and unfortunately for you I've never had spider mites so I can't tell you the most effective way to deal with them or comment on specific products to use. Given you're only in day 4 probably most any treatment is safe because there's no buds yet to contaiminate.

 

[2Lazy]

If you know all these things then you should know what to add and when. In veg a plant needs nitrogen and micronutrients. In flower a plant needs phospherous and potassium. During the point the buds are rapidly growing you may want to boost the phospherous a bit higher and micronutrients are still needed on a regular basis. NASA doesn't grow pot and few college botany departments grow pot. Marijuana is a weed, a weed that Mother Nature has evolved quite nicely such that it does not need some human who thinks he knows what the plant needs better then Mother nature.

So basically I won't get an answer?

I'm really surprised about this. I understand that in nature Cannabis does grow heartily in a variety of regions. With the sun, rain, and soil this makes growing the stuff pretty easy, that's a given. Unfortunately, I don't have access to growing Cannabis like a weed. Like many other growers I am stuck indoors with an artificial landscape, and my plants are subject to my personal whims.

I'm not asking for someone to tell me what I need to do with my plants.
I am asking what a person does for their plants in a very specific way.
Doesn't anyone keep a journal, or develop a plan?

Personally I keep track of my nutrient levels. I take pictures every so often to track growth and date issues. I even go as far as to make notes every week or so on the general ongoings in my room. This collection of information will help me in the future; patients is a virtue.

I REALLY thought tracking the statistics of a grow was a regular practice for an oldschool experienced indoor hydroponic grower. I have a close grip on it, I'm just hoping to take that next step with the sage advice of my elders.

Thanks for taking the time to respond to all of that. You're a beast dude.

 

[HempKat]

Thxs bud, that makes alot of sense. I "think" the root rot might be from the root aphid infestation that I'm hoping is eradicated now. I'm thinking of going a diff direction with soil, maybe coco or an alternative. The Imid seems to have totally wiped out the aphid issue, I dont have a single flyer caught in traps in days now, but the recovery will take awhile obviously.
Point about watering noted, I think one of the ONLY things I have down is watering, but man it's been a learning curve. And thanks for your additions to that.
Also, point noted re: summertime. As you know, I don't NEED to put out much, the last couple rounds have come out good enough for my med patient friend so she's good for awhile.
Researching soil brands and the possibility of coco or similar, and may just take your advice and take a month off, let the burnt ladies do whatever little they will and start fresh with a few seeds.

Well you may want to keep some clones around too. Starting from seed you never know for sure what you'll get so you got to go thru the whole sexing process and all. If you're going to do that then better to have some clones ready to flower while you're growing the seeds out. By the time they're mature and sexed you're clones are ready to harvest and that opens up the room to flower the from seed plants.

As for changing to some other medium all I can tell you is I hear alot of people saying how good coco is but that's about all I know about it.

 

[ericcalif]

Spider mites....I have noticed them on a few plants so am trying to take care of them asap.
I am on the 4th day of flowering. No flowers yet.
I got this stuff called "zero Tolerance" its an herbal pesticide...and Doktor Doom spider mite knock out. It says to use every few days...anyone have an opinion on that or how they would suggest to use it, or what else to use?

IV heard raising humidity levels helps also?

Should I avid the room? Would that affect the plants or flowers in this stage?

TEMPERATURE is at 84F now that I added a seperate dehumidifier to the 12000btu a/c.
I have 4 1000watts in the room, the temp was at 81.5F before adding the seperate duhidifier.
The room is sealed.
Lights are also air cooled.
Oscillating fans in room.

I am spraying co2 at 1500ppms into the room.

Is my temperature too high?

Any ideas?

I had a mite infestation. Tried neem and sm-90, only knocked em back a bit.
What i learned and what i do now... Dockor Doom got rid of them COMPLETELY. 3 applications a few days apart. Since then, I do one or two very light applications of neem late in veg as a preventative. Mist every other day or so with plain water. One shot of DD in the first few weeks of flower, thats all.
Mites like dry and warm. So humidity and/or water discourages them. It's worked for me so far, not seen a single mite for many months.

 

[HempKat]

So basically I won't get an answer?

I'm really surprised about this. I understand that in nature Cannabis does grow heartily in a variety of regions. With the sun, rain, and soil this makes growing the stuff pretty easy, that's a given. Unfortunately, I don't have access to growing Cannabis like a weed. Like many other growers I am stuck indoors with an artificial landscape, and my plants are subject to my personal whims.

I'm not asking for someone to tell me what I need to do with my plants.
I am asking what a person does for their plants in a very specific way.
Doesn't anyone keep a journal, or develop a plan?

Personally I keep track of my nutrient levels. I take pictures every so often to track growth and date issues. I even go as far as to make notes every week or so on the general ongoings in my room. This collection of information will help me in the future; patients is a virtue.

I REALLY thought tracking the statistics of a grow was a regular practice for an oldschool experienced indoor hydroponic grower. I have a close grip on it, I'm just hoping to take that next step with the sage advice of my elders.

Thanks for taking the time to respond to all of that. You're a beast dude.

Well I'm not a hydroponic guy, like my title says I'm a simple old dirt farmer. I keep journals but it would be like day 30, first feeding, Veg fert 4tspns per gallon as per directions on nutrient bottle. Day 33 second feeding, Veg fert 4tspns per gallon..., day 36 third feeding, just water. Day 60 switched to 12/12 and will now feed just flower ferts as per directions on label.

By the way this is indoors, with an artificial landscape under an artificial sun. I don't know, maybe some hydro person will chime in? I've seen hydro growers say they like hydro because they can control exactly how much of each nutrient so it sounds like someone should be able to give you what you're looking for.

For me in soil I don't worry about all that. I just make sure the fert has all the nutrients the plant needs in the right NPK ratio and then that's it. No having to tweak just phospherous or just potassium.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

I REALLY thought tracking the statistics of a grow was a regular practice for an oldschool experienced indoor hydroponic grower. I have a close grip on it, I'm just hoping to take that next step with the sage advice of my elders.

I think that you will find that most old folks tend to not obsess over the small stuff. Not much you can do to improve upon a grow that has been given a balanced diet and a good place to root. Many think they are really doing a great thing by adding big bloom this, and super tric that....but when it all washes out, the cost of such products...and the time needed to mess with them just don't increase results enough to justify the adds. Sure they may help a bit, a slight bit. And things like adding Co2(properly) to the grow can increase bud development and heft, but there is a huge cost in doing that correctly, and if you aren't harvesting lots of plants, it just isn't worth the effort, IMO.

The thread that Hempcat has started has been a godsend to many a new grower and even for those who have experience. But I think you will find that most of the info in here is for common sense approaches to the basics. Which, in my experience, is how old folks like us like to roll.
Now, for a place that is full of those who obsess over nute values and such, I would suggest the Growers Forum; Indoor Grows-Hydro

And just another word of advise from an old guy...it takes time and patience to actually have a close grip on just about any hobby or activity, and it is only a very rare occasion that a rookie grower, or rookie anything for that matter, has it all dialed in and on top of the game and ready to take it to the next level. Oh sure, many may feel they own the game right off the bat, but I assure you that they are going on ego and/or youth as the catalyst for their over zealous ambition.
Also...anyone can mix up solutions by the numbers and take readings with gadgets..those are easy things to do, and an apt child could do it. What takes skill is being able to recognize what issues the plant may have, and being able to counter effectively.

 

[lilgreendude]

HempKat thanks for takin a look ive been feeding with 2 drops
H2O2 1 tbls alaska fish fert. 4 full dropers full of schultz 10-15-10
just resently added 1tea spoon of organic molasses and about 7 drops of vinager to stablize my ph every gallon every time i water hears somr more girls and anouther mom that are showing simtoms any avice would be greatful t/y.

 

[HempKat]

HempKat thanks for takin a look ive been feeding with 2 drops
H2O2 1 tbls alaska fish fert. 4 full dropers full of schultz 10-15-10
just resently added 1tea spoon of organic molasses and about 7 drops of vinager to stablize my ph every gallon every time i water hears somr more girls and anouther mom that are showing simtoms any avice would be greatful t/y.

The fish fert is it the 5-1-1 kind? If so that's a veg fertalizer and should not be given to plants that are flowering, too much nitrogen in flower can mess up the flowering response. Also vinegar while working well as a ph adjuster is bad for plants, so is things like lemon juice. Most ph up and ph down products are derived from phosperous and potassium so not only do they adjust ph but they're also of nutritional value to the plant.

I'd stop giving the fish fert to any plant that you have in flowering. Give it to the mom's as they're probably in veg and don't add anything else except maybe the molasses. The shultz fert isn't really a flower fert at least not for cannabis but it's close enough so give your flowering plants just that and molasses mixed with water of course.

For all plants leave out the H202 unless you're treating a specific problem and definately leave out the vinegar. If you need to adjust ph I'd say get yourself something made for plants like the ph up and ph down they sell in hydro stores. If you're worried about security and hydro stores you can also buy ph up and ph down at pet stores although it's not meant for plants and so might not be any better then vinegar.

Okay I just looked at the pics and see that the fish fert is the 5-1-1 kind, so only give that to vegging plants. You didn't mention the superthrive but try to avoid giving that to plants in flower as it can also interfere with the flowering response. Also in looking at your pics I see all your containers are homemade, cans by the looks of some of them. Are you giving them drainage holes? If not then that right there can lead to a whole host of problems. Also the bigger plants could be starting to become root bound which will lead to leaves yellowing and dropping off like in the first picture.