VIDEO: magnetic ballists strobeing vs. digital

[simba]

LOL.. funny..

in reality its Pulsing at 60hz 60 cylces per second (basicly 60 times on off a second) thats twice as fast as Full motion video (fluid Video)
the humen eye can see 30ish hz..
the Elec dig ballast Increes that clcle rate.so u dont see the flash its a trick on the eye thats it..
the elec dig ballast is 20k hz. 20k times on and off a second a Vid camera isnt fast enough to catch the flashing..
(the reason the cameras see the flash of mag hps is cause they go at 30-40 fps and the shutter catches the Flash)
if u see a Cadi or other LED tail light u see it flash a bit.. Tail light not Brake.. its called PWM pulsed width modulator and thats about 250HZ (250 times on off a second. some can see the pulse a bit but not totaly.. u catch it with the humen eyes Organic Shuter)


ELEC DIG Ballasts Blow..my tushi.. Not one i would recomend..(well GE and advance) but not yet.. not on american crapy power
stores only sell because its $$$.. if u bring a broken one back it dont cost them money.. its on MFR .but think about it this way..
Magentic ballst last 10 years.. and how many you hear fail..
elec lucky if 5 years and u hear HORAR Stories all day long..

Power savings is a JOKE in comparison to initial cost and failures (ur not getting 10 years use so that high cost is divided by 5 years) bringing it back to being less "effficiant than magnetic (in the whole picture)


as far as heat.. ya feels cooler its heatsinked.. if u let it build its heat like a magetic does it be same temp.
look for my post on ***** i have a CPU heat sink with mini fan and the Magetic core stays at 80ish..sometimes 90 when warm summer.


a step up converter is just that but its HORBILe and a fire hazard.. IE
if u have a device that draws 2 amps at 120V and has option for 220v and u use that with stpup cnvrtr it will now take 2.25 amps becasue the effeciancy loss in the stp up converter..

as far as runing on 120 or 220
220 is better on the device and house.. IE a 500HP engine tuned down to 120 HP no part will break for a LONG TIME.. same idea..
IE your 120/220 device on 120 is taking 2 or whatever amps on One wire (hot wire)
where as 220 v Device is taking two 120Volt Legs (two hots) and taking only 1 amp on each..
in your house you have coming in 220V Via 2 120 volt legs
in your house lets say you runing the vacume on same circuit as Ballast.. now ur making ur wires in ur house carry more AMPs in turn your walls are now a toaster oven waiting for fire..
on 220v if one leg has less juice the other leg can help out and not have such a drain.. i cant explain it well..
also as the Voltage dips in a brown out or Load Current Amps goes up and amps is what creates and Causes fires in wires in the walls..
your house is allso prob 20 years old when we DIDNT even imagine huge AC's and friges and computers (yes a good PC is 400 watt HPS equivelent) and allot of houses have like 5 computers so thats 5 400 hps lamps)
but ur puting huge Amp loads on ur wires in ur house.. Be safe with Juice..itall kill u by shock or fire..
if your lights dim in your house when something goes on u dont have enough power coming into the house.. Fact.. (you need to increese your service Amps).(in my house i have had to Equilize power because of the drains and feeling WARM WALLS during the winter.. (its very easy to overload one of ur 220v legs..)

Look up Brown outs and how they affect computers and why u need UPS system.. same exact thing for Elec dig ballasts and even more so for ele ballasts..

also show me a UL rated Lumatek or Futurebrite galaxy or any other or a ANSI rating..
when ur house catches fire.. Not only u better hope ur grow burnt to no evidence but hope they dont find out ur ballast casued the fire... NO UL no Insurance CHECK FACT>> LMFAO>> no way would i risk that EVER>> pay more and have so many risks and only benifit is it dont flash for camera..

dam futurebrite said in an email they think there ballast will fail if used in a house that the lights dim when the AC or microwave come on.. and where talking a minor brown out not major.. now think cali with rolling blackouts and Harsh brownouts..
ya this reply is in Lamens style

lumateks site says if ur ballast starts leaking Resin move to cooler spot.. WTF.. if any thing of mine electrical especialy is leaking ANY Thing I WANT A REFUND and Might call the Fire DEPT... (basicly it leaking cause its working hard bad power or stupidly close to lamp

your PC montitor CRT not LCD montiors in USA refresh at 50-70Hz typicaly 60hz.. twice that of fluid video..

 

[- ezra -]

Interesting stuff, its nice to learn some new things about electronics (not one of my strong points). Seems there are some opposing opinions, I have to say simba's post does seem fairly convincing.

peace, Ez

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

hey simba thats pritty cool to know....
i didnt have the words to explain ...
i havent had single problem with my digis and my power bill is less with 2 600's then with 1 1k magnetic.....not by alot but 20-25 kwh/month...at best, but when your running over and 200% useage rates are alot higher then regular or 1-25%, 25-100% or 100-200% rates it matters....enough/over time. what a tierd power useage system i have....

 

[Guest]

i don't beleive that a digitall ballast will fail in five years if you maintain them proprerly.

i hve two future brite ballasts 400 and 600 watt. they are the newest generations too.

i had the option at my store to get any of the new digitals like lumatech and galawy and there was a siver one and a black one too. they were all on display running lights and i have to tell you that the other digis were pretty hot hot enough to burn me. and the future brites were not even really much higher than room temp.

the digis that were mentioned to not last five years, as opposed to 10+ years of a mag. had to be them really hot ones i seen.

my buddy at the hydro store says that he does get a lot of digitals back for repair, but the future brights "stay gone" once they leave the store. yeah a couple might come back with a lose fan making a shitload of noise but mags. come back all the time for new ignitors and run capacitors, etc.

also i bought my future brites because that i could put them in the gr ow room with out any extra heat ( i have to put them in the grow room because i live at my dads house and he doesn't know that i have reefas growing in the closet, so NO ballast outside of the room) and also i could use them for eithe3r hps or mh wihch is a plus because i like to do alot of experiments with diiferent nutes, and different lighting situations.

also the magnetics do burn the bulb more efficiantly
87%-82% @ 10,000 hours digitall
65%-62% @ 10,000 hours magnet

also my 400 and 600 ballasts use only 410 & 610 actuall watts, when a 600 mag uses like 670 watts

my dad says when i slip him the ocasional Question (hes a master electrician) that the magnetics that run the parking deck lights at the hospitall he works at, sometime explode like a bomb when they go all the way bad. and also he said that if a magnetic is reall hot how do you think it got that way, from using electricity inefficiantly of course

 

[simba]

i hate to say this but Future bright are some of the worsed ones out there..
i have emails from THEM saying they dont think there ballast will survive use in a home or commercial that suffers brown outs.. (we suffer brownouts when ur lights dim)

ill tell ya.. If you have 100% clean power (none of us have, well most dont have)
it will KILL a digi ballast.. I cant really explain very well but a brownout with that much Current is hard to maintain