Very warm, almost hot wires

[BioSemiosi]

Dimmer problem is probably unrelated to this, as you could have not changed anything from the power connector.

I think so too, I'm waiting to hear what they tell me, it's not a problem for me, I almost never use it 100%
and if necessary I arrive at 100 % with the pitch of the dimmer without problems

 

[ZOnaVerde]

@BioSemiosi
How long did it take to receive the replacement part?
What happens when you have no idea how to assemble it?
What shipping costs did you incur? (it is normal to pay only sent but bearing in mind that it seems like a mistake related to the safety of the house, space, garage etc.).
Can you use it in the summer?
How long was the power cable and how long is it now?

 

[BioSemiosi]

@BioSemiosi
How long did it take to receive the replacement part?
What happens when you have no idea how to assemble it?
What shipping costs did you incur? (it is normal to pay only sent but bearing in mind that it seems like a mistake related to the safety of the house, space, garage etc.).
Can you use it in the summer?
How long was the power cable and how long is it now?

How long did it take to receive the replacement part?

Less than i can imagine but more than usual,they were also looking for a stock of connectors but a few days after my last email it was sent and received yesterday, after 2 weeks in all

What happens when you have no idea how to assemble it?

I had no idea if it was just the connector or something else, I don't have spare parts to test, changing the connector was very easy, as a boy I installed hardware in a computer shop, I did much more complex things.
They also kindly sent me a video but not necessary.

What shipping costs did you incur? (it is normal to pay only sent but bearing in mind that it seems like a mistake related to the safety of the house, space, garage etc.).

Nothing i'm still in warranty, the problem was the connector, as the assistance said,
My electrical system is up to standard and I haven't damaged anything in the greenhouses, I have 8 other grow lights on in all on the same system and everything works.

Can you use it in the summer?

Yes of course !
The room that houses the flowering greenhouses in winter does not exceed 20 degrees Celsius and in summer it does not exceed 24, in the greenhouse I keep it below 30 using the dimmer.

How long was the power cable and how long is it now?
I miss just 20 cm the cable is around 1,5 meter, long enough.

I hope I answered the questionnaire correctly!

 

[ZOnaVerde]

@BioSemiosi
Quite a long time, 2 weeks in vegetation and you choose plants of several meters :-/

You have a suitable room, the right temperature.
As not all of them have it, I'm curious if you want to do a test with this panel if it still flickers.
If you have the necessary time and a space with normal summer temperatures, keep it at 100% for a few hours a day to see if it melts again. I don't know many details related to what is the maximum temperature for optimal operation 35 maybe 40°.
I am willing to cover 50% of the cost if it fails during the test. I am curious if it is prone to fire.

What do you say? "We try"?

 

[BioSemiosi]

@BioSemiosi
Quite a long time, 2 weeks in vegetation and you choose plants of several meters :-/

You have a suitable room, the right temperature.
As not all of them have it, I'm curious if you want to do a test with this panel if it still flickers.
If you have the necessary time and a space with normal summer temperatures, keep it at 100% for a few hours a day to see if it melts again. I don't know many details related to what is the maximum temperature for optimal operation 35 maybe 40°.
I am willing to cover 50% of the cost if it fails during the test. I am curious if it is prone to fire.

What do you say? "We try"?

Seriously ? No thanks i don't need to burn it !
Are you trolling me ?

 

[ZOnaVerde]

@BioSemiosi
No, I'm curious if the plug is connected correctly, being the user's mistake, or if cheap components are used that affect safety.
Now that you have a new plug and summer is on the way, you have the best opportunity to solve the dilemma.

I take advantage of every opportunity, defect, to understand if it was my fault or not.

 

[Hammerhead]

All of the wiring is done when the light is assembled at the vendor. Not possible for this to be a user error. The new connector is what is being installed. Should have a male/female so they can't be plugged in wrong. Even if it's not we wouldn't connect this normally. Check for moisture around were your led is. There looks like some corrosion on the wires caused by moisture. Like anything electrical sometimes wires beak or have a poor connection. That's why adding fire suppression is a must.

Could you rephrase what the new problem is. The dimmer knob isn't working ?.


Im running the same LED at full power. It's been on full power for months. I raised it all the way up so its pretty far from the plants.

 

[exploziv]

Stopping his dimmer by the button makes light go off, instead of full on as it should.

 

[Hammerhead]

This is an old pic. The front or back button. The front and back buttons need to be on for the dimmer knob to work. I'm not dimming right now. It just turns on/off with the timer at full power.. I will test mine tonight and see if the LED turns off with the button.

 

[Hammerhead]

I tested mine. When the front button is turned off the led also turns off. It acts as an on/off switch. If the light is dimmed turning the back button off will make it full power and also bypasses the dimming knob.

 

[BioSemiosi]

I tested mine. When the front button is turned off the led also turns off. It acts as an on/off switch. If the light is dimmed turning the back button off will make it full power and also bypasses the dimming knob.

Sorry for my English but it's not my main language, I try to explain myself better with photos.
The Potentiometer (Knob) works, the on/off button (0/1) works backwards and I didn't touch anything in the dimmer. In all mars hydro lamps when you push the button to exclude the dimmer the lamp works at 100% mine instead turns off, It seems to work inverted, I should probably open the dimmer and see what's wrong but I repeat I haven't touched anything on the dimmer and it is connected directly to the power supply (driver), there are no connectors between the dimmer and the power supply (driver).

 

[BioSemiosi]

I tested mine. When the front button is turned off the led also turns off. It acts as an on/off switch. If the light is dimmed turning the back button off will make it full power and also bypasses the dimming knob.

so It's normal..also mine do that

 

[BioSemiosi]

@BioSemiosi
No, I'm curious if the plug is connected correctly, being the user's mistake, or if cheap components are used that affect safety.
Now that you have a new plug and summer is on the way, you have the best opportunity to solve the dilemma.

I take advantage of every opportunity, defect, to understand if it was my fault or not.

in my opinion it works, just a nonsense with the dimmer

 

[BioSemiosi]

I tested mine. When the front button is turned off the led also turns off. It acts as an on/off switch. If the light is dimmed turning the back button off will make it full power and also bypasses the dimming knob.

Dear @Hammerhead you are right!
In the other Mars lamps that I have Ts, Ttsl, Fc3000, Fce3000.. etc, the rear button is not there, it is present only in this model and I kept it off (my mistake) I only used the front one. I'll also tell you another thing, I bought the FCE6500 by reading your diary and a few days after you on around April 20, 2022. Perfect now I'm testing 100% for another 24 hours, for now everything has been working since yesterday.
THANKS A LOT !

 

[blondie]

Great info in this thread. I’m going to turn mine up to 100% tonight and watch it very very closely.

Also what does anyone think of a dab of dialectic gel on the connector? I’ve used this in the past on much higher amp connectors in the past.

 

[Three Berries]

Dielectric grease is just another corrosion inhibitor but also dielectric so don't use a whole lot. It does NOT help the connection other than preventing corrosion.

On my MH TSL2000 the drivers on top are pretty warm at full power and 77F in the tent. I put a 4" fan directly above it blowing down and that reduced the temp to +10F of tent temp. I'm going to stick a couple heats sinks on them.

 

[exploziv]

You could use it but not really needed since it's a sealed connector. Only thing that really matters is to be well connected, for good contact.

 

[BioSemiosi]

All of the wiring is done when the light is assembled at the vendor. Not possible for this to be a user error. The new connector is what is being installed. Should have a male/female so they can't be plugged in wrong. Even if it's not we wouldn't connect this normally. Check for moisture around were your led is. There looks like some corrosion on the wires caused by moisture. Like anything electrical sometimes wires beak or have a poor connection. That's why adding fire suppression is a must.

Could you rephrase what the new problem is. The dimmer knob isn't working ?.


Im running the same LED at full power. It's been on full power for months. I raised it all the way up so its pretty far from the plants.

The part that looks corroded is the burnt one, all the internal copper was burnt enough to break just by bending it. The humidity seems very strange to me in the room that houses the 2 flowering boxes, I have never exceeded 55%, it has never rained in winter and the summers here are dry, I would exclude the humidity.
For me it was a problem with the connector and I noticed on a new FCE6500 (bought 1 week ago), the connector is like my new one, not like the one I had and you have too. Maybe they found the defect on more FCE6500 and changed the default connector.

 

[ZOnaVerde]

If you don't test afterwards, don't you think it's much harder to draw a conclusion?
Without some tests beforehand, only conclusions can be drawn!
If the plugs are not connected and locked after clear, unpleasant situations may arise from the sealing.

I tested 3 types of led with values of 200-700W in different conditions such as 10-13°C above the manufacturer's limit at approx. 40-46-48°C RH 30-100% and several sensors but this is not important (find pictures in older threads) without problems or heated plugs. At most, the lifetime of the led may have been affected. In 2 models, plug and play connection type (male/female) without problems.

If out of 8 led panels you had problems with one, it can be a 50%-50% factory or use defect, you say that this is definitely the problem beforehand without a test. I say that it is difficult to exclude from the first a mistake and to say that the connection is not good.

 

[exploziv]

Overheating a led diode will cause less power to flow through it (and less and less with rising of temperature). So overheating the whole panel will not put more load on a connector. It will be less. And heat doesn't limit it's capacity to conduct electricity, as long as it was properly connected in the first place, all is good. Ofc some connectors can fail, but even then, it's long way to a fire, as plastics used in electric wiring and connectors must not burn in any case to get safety approval. You guys can test all you want.
Even at temperatures that will kill the plants, the light would be just as safe as it is in regular growroom temperatures. Life expectancy could drop from exposure to high temps, but not much more will happen. And this is same for every brand of led, not just MH. Forgetting about some food cooking in your oven or on the stove is much more dangerous than running a led light in extreme temperatures. I wouldn't worry about this so much. At least not with modern lights.