Very basic electrical question

[Drop That Sound]

To test just use an extension cord and start far away then move it closer to the ballast, I bet the numbers start to change a little!

P.S. I mean when it is turned on of course

 

[Drop That Sound]

Funny I should mention that, my cheap $20 apollo thermostat has actually been working now the last week, in a different room!. The heater doesn't shut off like it was when my nanolux 1000 digi's were in use and 5 feet away, but I still have to crank it up, just the relay seemed to have a problem. One of the ballast comes with an RF filter and the older model doesnt. My TDS meter would change when close to the ballasts, live and learn my man!

 

[Nomad28743]

Worth a try. I read this and then moved the sensor out of the tent slipped it over a door hinge and was essentially in another room and it read more like the room it was in but still some what higher than it should.
So then I asked myself...What would Rube Goldberg do? and it came to me to make a lil tent out of tin foil to cover the sensor. Dang that did nothing.
So later today I will move the unit out and the sensor is long enuff to be in the next room.
We'll see if it is the mean ole ballast messin' with the unit and report as usual.

 

[Nomad28743]

No luck. Went back to the living room set up with the three Accurites and the units sensor balanced on top of one of the Accurites and left it for a good hour. The unit was reading 84.7 and the Accurites were 78, 79, 80. So back in the tent it went and just happy it's functioning as needed.

 

[Phaeton]

This thread has wandered some.
I use four remote sensors for temperature on different frequencies. When the DirecTV was installed the technician noticed the base units on the shelf and warned me to move them away from the DirecTV equipment or I would get altered readings. I did so and report no problems.

One of the reasons for so many sensors, some go directly under the light at plant tops for the leaf temp reading, others go halfway down the plant out of the light beam. Another goes no an outside wall which has temperature variations from 40 F in winter to a record 93 F in the summer.

So far RFI from the low frequency digitals has never happened and the one ultra high frequency digital has no problems either. Don't know if it is luck or my not buying inexpensive equipment.

 

[Nomad28743]

Phaeton,
I think I am the one to blame for the tread wandering.
I also have several Accurite with remote senors placed at different heights in the tent.
The company sent me an email asking about my satisfaction with the unit I bought and I replied in a detailed way with how it is preforming. No requests for refund just an honest straight forward response to how it's working. That was 4 days ago. Maybe it takes that long to get email to China. Perhaps Resident Rump will fix that too.
Anyway it is working just fine with the temps set higher than the Accurite readings.
However I will not order another one. Gonna take DTS's suggestion and get the Inkbird stc 1000 and wire up with 2 sacrificial extension cords.

 

[aridbud]

and get the Inkbird stc 1000 and wire up with 2 sacrificial extension cords.

Or....maybe consult a professional.....
Fuses trip for variety of reasons reasons. After a while, they might not be so sensitive, hence wires heating up and problems ensued. Wouldn't you rather want to be safe than sorry?

 

[Nomad28743]

Airbud,
The phrase "sacrificial extension cords" means I will cut off the plug end and use those to hook up two recepticles for the heater and fan to the unit. Not that they will be overheated and fail.

 

[Drop That Sound]

Aridbud is technically right, was just helping some friends who kept tripping a breaker using a cheap 100ft extension cord with a 1000 and some fans. They just kept flipping it back on over and over and I found a melted plug end. Had to really get on there ass and explain why you don't overload circuits. I would hate to be responsible for suggesting you burning your house down so please take my advice and not put more than the 800 or so watts it can handle, and you should be just fine! Maybe disconnect the 1500 setting on the heaters switch from working just to be sure, but I would have to recommend getting a lower amp heater. They make 600 watt radiant heaters that I would totally recommend along with the stc-1000

 

[Nomad28743]

My heater has 2 knobs 1-5 for setting and a second one that is for how high the setting is used. It is a 1000w heater set on 3 and medium. My kill-a-watt meter says it's pulling 875 watts when running. My controller is rated for 1650 watts.
I did have a cheap aquarium heater explode and jump out of the tank which was very interesting. It left black tiny floating crystals in the water and in the water on the floor where the unit landed. The heater had maybe 500 hours of trouble free use prior to exploding. I think I heard somewhere in China a worker got their wings!

 

[Drop That Sound]

I use aquarium heaters too, anything that go's into or around water I have protected by gfci outlets. I think the most powerful heater i've seen is 200 watts, but I only use 25-100 watt ones. I want to upgrade to the metal ones because I know someday i'll break one. At least I won't get killed or electrocute my plants with the protected outlets I have installed. No matter what the rating of the device there is still 120 volts running into the water!

I like to overcompensate when it comes to wiring circuits for grow rooms, like using 20 amp wire for 15 amp circuits, etc.

 

[Nomad28743]

I think I wanna buy more expensive aquarium heaters in the future.