Using a wood moisture meter to check rh of drying buds

[exploziv]

@Ca++ totally agree, I have found around 58% to be perfect, so I jar at around 60%. 55% is already too dry, 65% is starting to get risky with mold growth. On dry and hot days even the time it takes from grinding to rolling a joint can make a big diference. When ground, the weed can dry too much in 10-20 mins if you leave it like that in a dry environment.

 

[Ca++]

While 65% is too wet to store, and too wet to grind, it's actually a nice smoke. If I find my weed too dry, I will sometimes roll it, then wet it. It doesn't seem to matter that it's water from my tap, not moisture from the plant in my J. The taste of dry weed is gone, and the freshness is back. I have sat drawing wet lines down J's as I smoked them down. Stopping them from drying out. It seems crazy to most, but why store our weed at 58% then stop storing it properly, the moment it's in rizla. Cigar guys don't give up on storing them properly, because it's been rolled. I'm not sure a half smoked one isn't found back in the humidor at times to.

I know it sounds like crazy talk, as fringe ideas always do. All ideas start on the fringe though, before gaining a wider acceptance. I chuck the second half of my pipe, or J, unless I can get the RH right again. I spend a lot of time getting my smoke right, and the RH is one of the biggest factors. I maintain a good RH, until it goes in the ashtray. It's illogical not to, yet I feel I'm the only one bothered, once it's out the jar.

 

[Hiddenjems]

While 65% is too wet to store, and too wet to grind, it's actually a nice smoke. If I find my weed too dry, I will sometimes roll it, then wet it. It doesn't seem to matter that it's water from my tap, not moisture from the plant in my J. The taste of dry weed is gone, and the freshness is back. I have sat drawing wet lines down J's as I smoked them down. Stopping them from drying out. It seems crazy to most, but why store our weed at 58% then stop storing it properly, the moment it's in rizla. Cigar guys don't give up on storing them properly, because it's been rolled. I'm not sure a half smoked one isn't found back in the humidor at times to.

I know it sounds like crazy talk, as fringe ideas always do. All ideas start on the fringe though, before gaining a wider acceptance. I chuck the second half of my pipe, or J, unless I can get the RH right again. I spend a lot of time getting my smoke right, and the RH is one of the biggest factors. I maintain a good RH, until it goes in the ashtray. It's illogical not to, yet I feel I'm the only one bothered, once it's out the jar.

I often get the best burn smoking “test” pieces to “check readiness”.

I don’t know where people get grass smell/taste coming from the drying process. I have never once, even using the oven to speed dry, had anything smell like hay or grass.

I suspect it’s the really good wet trim I do. I can see where leaf material could smell grassy.

 

[Ca++]

The smell of hay, or more precisely straw, is a decomposition product. The process is fed by nitrogen. So a combination of dirty weed and high N is usually needed. Rotten roots can be the start of it, or poor plumbing in the building.

 

[Kushbythebush]

I intend to use this meter in conjunction with other methods for assessing whether or not buds are ready for jarring. I am interested to hear from people who have used or are actively using these types of meters.

The meter I have has 7 modes and it is not exclusive to wood.

m1 - Beech, spruce, larch, birch, cherry, walnut
m2 - Oak, pine, maple, ash, douglas fir, eucalyptus
m3 - cement mortar layer, concrete
m4 - anhydrous gypsum, mortar layer
m5 - cement mortar
m6 - lime mortar, gypsum
m7 - bricks

Realistically, it is a meter designed specifically for testing moisture content within material. If, let's say the meter gets used every time before you jar and the readings are always the same %, 11% as an example, wouldn't this then just be an easier way to probe and jar without any guesswork or other methods for determining whether or not the flower is ready for curing?

M1 would be your softer woods and from what I hear the more accurate setting would be the “soft wood” setting

 

[ProfessorLefty]

I intend to use this meter in conjunction with other methods for assessing whether or not buds are ready for jarring. I am interested to hear from people who have used or are actively using these types of meters.

The meter I have has 7 modes and it is not exclusive to wood.

m1 - Beech, spruce, larch, birch, cherry, walnut
m2 - Oak, pine, maple, ash, douglas fir, eucalyptus
m3 - cement mortar layer, concrete
m4 - anhydrous gypsum, mortar layer
m5 - cement mortar
m6 - lime mortar, gypsum
m7 - bricks

Realistically, it is a meter designed specifically for testing moisture content within material. If, let's say the meter gets used every time before you jar and the readings are always the same %, 11% as an example, wouldn't this then just be an easier way to probe and jar without any guesswork or other methods for determining whether or not the flower is ready for curing?

Different types of materials compared to the settings on mine, but I think as long as you’re consistent using the same settings on a particular meter, you can use it to compare measurements

For what it’s worth, the setting I’m using gives about 12% moisture for flower conventionally cured in a jar with a 62% Boveda pack