Trichomes never turn amber

[GonjaLove]

If you keep having the same problem...why not try like one or 2 plants in straight up coco and some 6/9 micro-bloom and see if those 2 plants finish properly. Problem solved

 

[slownickel]

Still don't understand why you are only feeding every 14 days. Ocean Forrest has enough nutrients for 3 weeks or so less if you cut it with coco. I belive you are starving your plants. My suggestion would be pic a medium and learn to use it. coco has it's quirks but nothing to complicated. Ocean Forrest is just soil after 3 weeks, you need to feed every other water. Also remember most grow shops are full of people who's only job is to separate you from your hard earned money.

You are treating it like it's this supersoil you speak of, It's not feed your plants.

I read you have receding white hairs, your hairs should be red or orange not white. Mabey try something easy like 6 and 9 bloom and micro from general hydroponics. I will say it one last time

FEED YOUR PLANTS, YOU ARE STARVING THEM. 14 DAYS IS WAY TO LONG WITHOUT A FEEDING.

Packer.... really depends where he started with his mix. I have seen analysis on Ocean Forest and it had little P and little Ca. Plants in 12% K and 4% Na, with 60% Ca, have no space to be fertilized. The plants are likely wacked heavy by the fertilizers applied. It is pretty amazing some of the results that we have seen.

And yes, you will even see response to applying fertilizers when they are twanged with high K, Na and Mg. They pick up the nutrients by osmosis, force feeding if you will. You can't replace Ca sites with more K, Na and Mg. Just doesn't work that way.

Big problem here? We are all guessing.

Let him send in his soil sample to spectrumanalytic dot com and get the K-3 process that most guys are getting done. Then there will be no discussion, we are all guessing. We all want every grower to succeed. But let's just stop guessing, no?

And yes, feeding every 15 days in a light mix won't get you there. If it is a heavy mix, full of Mg, it will hold water and build up nutrients quickly. This is real common.

Let him grab soil about half way down in his pot, half way between the edge of the pot and the stalk. The sample should be dried at a low temperature and then sifted lightly (don't grind the stuff against the screen, just shake it). Then send in 120 grams or so of the sifted soil.

The results will be done usually within 24 hours or so of getting it.

Anyone care to wager on what he is sitting in?

 

[slownickel]

Why do you want them to go amber? That is oxidation, is cell death. The truth is most people simply cannot keep their plants healthy enough to not oxidize? What kills humans...cell oxidation.

Test the plant though, not the soil. Too much of something is far more common than not enough

Interesting comment there about amber.

On my last several trips, I have been posing that same question to everyone. What criteria are folks using on when to harvest to this day bewilders me.

I have heard everything from 100% amber to 70% milky/30% clear.

I too have seen the research that says peak actives/terps is at 20-30% amber. The numbers were pretty clear. However......

If that soil had low Ca, low P, maybe like Jidoka is implying oxidation is increasing and the actives bell curves could be starting to decrease RESULTING in more amber. If the product is oxidizing, maybe we are just picking the point of over ripeness where the levels start to decrease at an accelerated rate, sort of like a lousy melon being allowed to go super ripe yet still tastes like garbage. Maybe if we do it right, we should never see amber?

Some folks don't even use trichome color to harvest, they go off smell and bag appeal. Heard that one lots of times.

 

[Nicholas2323]

Slownickel, I'm ready to submit the soil sample to spectrum analytics, but what is the k3 process you are referring to? Do I need to specify a particular type of analysis? I went to your lounge, but have to admit you are way over my head. I'm not a professional grower but am a medicine man yet your discussions were way beyond me.

Also, how can I feed more often than every 14 days in 5 gallon pots if I feed every other watering. I was taught that I had to let the plant dry out? It takes a week for them to dry and be light enough to water. To measure, I've used the finger in the soil approach, picking up the plants and testing for weight, and a thirsty light. They all indicate a minimum of 7 days between watering.

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I was growing hydro until a couple of years ago and never had any problems like this. The trichomes turned amber, but you didn't even have to look at them because there is a smell the plants have when they are ripe. Had to stop the hydro because of a bad back and I thought I could transition to soil with the help of a local hydro man who also grows.

He told me to use the mix of half Ocean Forest and half Ready Gro (moisture formula.) I'm not stuck on this mix, but after the nutrients in the OF are depleted, won't the minerals in the Growilla compensate for that? What base mix do you use, if you don't mind my asking. I'm getting really depressed with no good product for 2 years.

Do you think it could be because I had the flowering lights on the ceiling and too far away from the plants.

For the past 2 years, I've used general hydroponics veg and flower, advanced nutrients nutes, karma, advanced nutrients amendments, cal-mag, bloommaster but for the last 2 grows, I switched to organics. A lot of growers are raving about Growilla and the company says even a moron can be successful with this product. Organic or nonorganic, I always used the same base mix, always the same light height, always got the same result...compost material.

 

[slownickel]

Slownickel, I'm ready to submit the soil sample to spectrum analytics, but what is the k3 process you are referring to? Do I need to specify a particular type of analysis? I went to your lounge, but have to admit you are way over my head. I'm not a professional grower but am a medicine man yet your discussions were way beyond me.

Also, how can I feed more often than every 14 days in 5 gallon pots if I feed every other watering. I was taught that I had to let the plant dry out? It takes a week for them to dry and be light enough to water. To measure, I've used the finger in the soil approach, picking up the plants and testing for weight, and a thirsty light. They all indicate a minimum of 7 days between watering.

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I was growing hydro until a couple of years ago and never had any problems like this. The trichomes turned amber, but you didn't even have to look at them because there is a smell the plants have when they are ripe. Had to stop the hydro because of a bad back and I thought I could transition to soil with the help of a local hydro man who also grows.

He told me to use the mix of half Ocean Forest and half Ready Gro (moisture formula.) I'm not stuck on this mix, but after the nutrients in the OF are depleted, won't the minerals in the Growilla compensate for that? What base mix do you use, if you don't mind my asking. I'm getting really depressed with no good product for 2 years.

Do you think it could be because I had the flowering lights on the ceiling and too far away from the plants.

For the past 2 years, I've used general hydroponics veg and flower, advanced nutrients nutes, karma, advanced nutrients amendments, cal-mag, bloommaster but for the last 2 grows, I switched to organics. A lot of growers are raving about Growilla and the company says even a moron can be successful with this product. Organic or nonorganic, I always used the same base mix, always the same light height, always got the same result...compost material.

The process at the lab is the K-3 process. The K stands for my last name. It is a combination of Melich 3 and [email protected] procedures along with total nitrogens, conductivity, sodium and aluminum.

Sounds like your mix is way too heavy, if it is holding water that long. On the other side, you may be letting things get too dry even though you feel moisture.

On a loose mix, you will feel moisture, but that it not always "ACTIVE" water.

If you take a small pot, dry it out well and then weight it, this would be your first measurement. Then add water til it is completely wet. After an hour or so, weigh it again. That added weight is now your water tank. In a porous medium, you need to maintain at least 20% water to maintain sufficient water.

I went in to the growilla (botanicare), they are running a 5-4-2 for veg and it comes with a huge amount of Mg. If that Mg starts building up, you are going to get water logged real fast. If there was a bunch of Mg in your mix to begin with, this Mg could be making everything build up. (again guessing). If you are sitting in a high K and Mg versus high Ca, the plant won't like getting too dry.

Ideally you would run a 2-4-2 or at least that relationship in veg. All that extra nitrogen is not helpful, especially for Ca uptake (antagonistic). There is some calcium in there, but not enough to grow a real crop. Iron to manganese (Mn) ratios of 4.5 (not good), not enough Mn, especially if your medium is full of iron.

I know you need extra Ca, everyone does. Just can't quantify it..

Send in the sample and post it here. Also ask the lab to post a copy to my account, that way I can download it in excel and not have to digitize your data in excel.

 

[Nicholas2323]

The Ready Gro is a moisture retaining mix. I am using smart pots. I have 3 plants in veg (2 weeks old) but haven't fed them yet. Should I wait to send the soil sample until after feeding? I burned up the 4 trainwrecks that were 5 weeks flowering by adding 2 ml Bloombastic. I'm thinking I should replant the ones in veg without the Ready Gro, but don't know what base mix to use.

 

[Nicholas2323]

The Ready Gro is a moisture retaining mix. I am using smart pots. I have 3 plants in veg (2 weeks old) but haven't fed them yet. Should I wait to send the soil sample until after feeding? I burned up the 4 trainwrecks that were 5 weeks flowering by adding 2 ml Bloombastic. I'm thinking I should replant the ones in veg without the Ready Gro, but don't know what base mix to use.

 

[jidoka]

Slow...I bet high K, high nitrate (blocking P uptake), low Ca and shit for micros other than Fe. Fert has to be tailored to the existing soil. The use of some stock fert could be disaster

 

[meowmeowmeow]

I'd just start back at square 1 and Keep It Simple Stoner.

 

[Nicholas2323]

Thanks for the post, meow.

I've tried that for 2 years. With all the different nutes I've listed. Since I've switched to soil from hydro I haven't had a good result except when I used the supersoil (to which I no longer have access), I really don't know what square 1 is since each grow has been unsuccessful. The plants are always pretty; great fan leaves, good tight buds, but they just have never finished. I've changed genetics, also. It must be either the soil mix or the placement of the lights (which I was told to place on the ceiling--1000 watt hps).

But living in Texas, I am pretty much alone on this. No one to talk to and get advice except the one hydro dealer, who told me to use a 50:50 Ocean Farm and Ready Gro moisuture retaining base mix.

I started out with general hydroponics and failed. Next, I switched to Advanced Nutrients veg and bloom and failed. Then I switched to Growilla organic and failed. When I look online, it seems people are having great success with Growilla, but I have used it for 4 grows and the plants did not finish.

I know one post says I am starving the plants feeding every 14 days but that is from the company's recommendations and also the look and weight of the plant. They never have shown signs of a nutrient deficiency, nute lockout, water or wind problems and no bugs. (I use two rooms of my house; one for grow and the other for flowering).

Frankly, I am just bewildered. I had great success with hydro. I would just buy the stuff if it were legal here but with my job I can't take any chances from an illegal dealer.

I have my soil sample taken and am waiting for it to dry out. The request is printed and ready to go. I will send it in as soon as I can filter it. I asked Mike to post it to slownickel's account also. It will be in my girl friend's name. I have to be really careful.

Thanks to all of you for your posts. This is the most help I've ever had for soil.

 

[meowmeowmeow]

The same issue I had while in Florida no good info from locals, but I worked out my issues......learned a lot on here.

Access is there to super soil also if you choose to stick with that medium......the internet fella is a magical place.

Good luck, but don't beat yourself up over it. Have a good weekend.

 

[BakedBandit]

What's your flowering photoperiod like? Exactly 12-12? Try 11:45on 12:15 off or even more like 11:30 on and 12:30 off. You can start with 11:45 on and cut like 2-3 min a week throughout flowering. Should help finish better and faster.

 

[mr.brunch]

Cloudy is good! That's good old brain thumpin THC ....

 

[Nicholas2323]

Thanks for the words, meow. I don't have access to tga supersoil anymore. I just learned that Ready Gro moisture formula is for outdoor use. Score 1 for the local hydro man who suggested 50:50 Ready Gro and Ocean Forest. I have 4 plants in that mix now and need to transplant them. Do you think I should just put them in Ocean Forest and a little Happy Frog to cool off the mixture? I think I need to get them out of the Ready Gro.

Mr. Bruch, all of my grows have gotten to the cloudy stage but not one trace of amber. The product was just not any good. In fact, it just sucked and I have about 3 lbs of it. I don't think the terpenes (or whatever technical term) that give the aroma, taste and potency are fully developed until at lease some trichs are amber.

 

[Nicholas2323]

Based Bandit,
I have increased the dark cycle as you suggest and also reduced the temperature to fool the plants into thinking it is fall. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[Hammerhead]

Amber resin glands is what happens when THC degrades containing more CBD so u feel more couch lock. The more amber u have the more sedative it will be. I like mine all cloudy with some amber. If there are no amber its not a big deal. If its crappy with cloudy heads it will be crappy with amber. You have any pictures of your plants when you harvest them?. Age is why they turn amber.

 

[soundman]

Amber resin glands is what happens when THC degrades containing more CBD so u feel more couch lock. The more amber u have the more sedative it will be. I like mine all cloudy with some amber. If there are no amber its not a big deal. If its crappy with cloudy heads it will be crappy with amber. You have any pictures of your plants when you harvest them?. Age is why they turn amber.

I trust your knowledge but always thought THC degrades to CBN when over ripe and oxidized.

I didnt think THC can become CBD.

 

[Hammerhead]

Yep you would be correct. When describing effect most understand what CBD. I think there both CBD/CBN in there. . For the most part its CBN...Amber heads will not change the quality. Having to much amber is not good. As the THC degrades it become less potent. When harvesting you want all cloudy with little clear or amber heads

 

[soundman]

Yep you would be correct. When describing effect most understand what CBD does to you. So I used it here. I think there both CBD/CBN in there. Amber heads will not change the quality. Having to much amber is not good. As the THC degrades it become less potent. When harvesting you want all cloudy with little clear or amber heads

Cool. I was questioning myself.

I like mine mostly cloudy with a few clear and a few amber. I dont wait for amber it just happens when waiting for mostly cloudy trichs.

Never had the problem the OP has though. I have no idea why he cant get amber color though.

Maybe a new bulb. I used one too long and the result was trichs with most missing the globular head.

Strange problem.

 

[Hammerhead]

Its been awhile since I read up on it so very possible I got the 2 mixed up.