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Transplanting Regimen

Crazy Composer

Mushkeeki Gitigay • Medicine Planter
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Container Gardeners

This thread is intended to document your transplanting techniques and the theory behind those techniques. We want to know what clues you go by when deciding when to transplant, what you're particularly careful about during the process, how you're regimen benefits the plant, or any other idiosyncracies you have noticed. :D

Most container gardeners have a transplant regimen between seedling/clone stage and finish.

If you are one of these growers with established transplant regimens, we'd like to hear how you transplant, and why you transplant when you do.
 
G

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Start my beans in cup of water for 12hrs. or when they sink.
About a 99% rate this way.:D Then plant them in a 16oz. cup with dirt and holes in the bottom for drainage. Buried them about 1in. deep. When they pop up place them under 400w for about two wks.

Then transplant them in 2 gal. buckets. When they get about 8 to 10 inches I and switch them to 12/12 with 800w After I sex them which is about 10 to 14 days. Transplant into 5 gal. bucket and they get 1800 watts till done!! :cool:
 

JJScorpio

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I start out in small peat pots and transplant into 16 oz cups at about 4 days. I then transplant into 6 inch pot at around three weeks, into 3 gallon pots at 5 weeks or so and then into 5 gallon pails for flowering. I like to transplant a lot because it gives me a chance to loosen the roots and keep them with a lot of fresh soil.

Transplanting is very easy if you set up ahead of time. Just take your next larger container and fill it with soil and dig out the indentation of the old pot. Then tamp the soil lightly, dump the plant out of the old container, loosen the roots a little and set it into the new hole and fill around with soil. I only water lightly so the roots will reach for water and fill in. After 2 days I give a good watering....
 

minds_I

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Hello all,

I try to break away any of the old soil fromt eh rootball. I then use my fingers to loosen up the root ball and actually spread it out so that the roots are on top of fresh soil instread of being buried in it. I put fresh soil over the top of the roots and water in heavily and leave alone for a week.

I use superthrive

minds_I
 

Closet Funk

CeRtIfIeD OrGaNiC!
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Seedlings- small pots (2 weeks)
Rooted Clones and Vegetative- 1-2 gallon pots (2-4 weeks)
Flower- 2-3 gallon pots (final home until harvest)

*each transplant will get a shot of SuperThrive and Root Juice to ease transplant shock and make more vigorous roots.
 

Maj.PotHead

End Cannibis Prohibition Now Realize Legalize !!
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like to start off in either 2x2in or 3x3in square containers
if ya buy flowers for outside your home like these where from you'll have nice containers for many starting grows. i like to add 20-25% perlite to my potting soil for freshly planted seed

these flats will hold the plants 2-3 wks n/p from seed when i transplant is when the leaf tips just start to curl under and roots are in the bottom. this time around i transplanted into 2 liter soda bottels tops cut off drainage holes drilled in bottom and airation holes in sides for roots, holes in the sides help air get to roots and pass through soil easier the pot drys faster also as a result. transplant into 2-3 gal square containers to finish veg then 4-5 gal for flower. my soil for a veg stage transplant contains 1 cup bat guano 1 cup blood meal per 5 gal soil also added 1 cup whitney farms dolimite lime. for a transplant for flowering i use 1 cup seabird guano 1 cup bone meal 1 cup lime per 5 gal soil, for veg the soil has a hi N for flower has hi P med K under no circumstances will i use mirical grow soil continous feeder type. really nothing special just the above and lotsa love :joint:

the reason's why i use this type of transplant regiment is because ive found it to produce nicely formed root balls each transplant. the roots grow out towards the edge of the container then down and consume the soil within, ive gone from a nicely not to compacted 2 inch pete cup rootmass to a 22 gal rubbermaid sectioned in half for two plants and 2--11 gal very solid rootball's :)
 
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S

Space Ghost

I germ with paper towels and then once taproot shows they go into 16oz beer cups with holes in the bottom. After about 9-14 days I transplant into 6" pots, they stay there untill they show preflowers and then they go into 2.5g pots for flowering, they are usually badly rootbound by the end of flowering, but I'm very limited on space so whatever.

At every transplant I innoculate the soil with EN/EA (a beneficial fungi and bacteria tonic)
 
S

Space Ghost

another thing, if I start from clone, I start them in peat pellets and once rooted they go into 44oz drink cups and then 2.5g pots to flower.
 

Guest423

Active member
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i do all transplanting in clear cups...when i see alot of roots it's time to transplant either outside or in 3 gallon pots...all get some superthrive or B-1, grab the cup, tip upside down so the plant is between my middle and ring finger, give a gentle squeeze and maybe a shake and the whole plant, root, and dirt comes out in one nice solid ball...then put it wherever she's goin
 

Berry_Coughin'

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Seed submerged in water 24+ hours til cracked... Then into paper towel to tap out..... then into vermiculite/perlite... then to hydroton DWC time!! :woohoo:
 

minds_I

Active member
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Space Ghost said:
......

At every transplant I innoculate the soil with EN/EA (a beneficial fungi and bacteria tonic)


Hello all,

I use a dry endo/ecto innoculation when I start seeds or plant rooted cuttings. I use to re-innoculate every transplant also.

Then I got to thinking...why? If your soil environment is in good shape, those organisms are present at transplant are they not?

So what point is served by re-innoculation?

That and combined with guano/ewc/kelp teas, the microkiddies should be rockin'.

minds_I
 
G

Guest

I'll start new cuts in 4 inch 2 pint containers and veg until about 10 inches in height depending on phenotype.I dont go by what I see,but by what the rootball tells me.Normally I'll water every 4th day or so,as the plant grows its every third day then every other.When the medium demands moisture every other day and you are saturating the soil each time you water,you know its time to transplant up.I go to an NSI classic 600 2 gal container which is more like 1.6 gal.From there I either veg awhile longer and flower plants in 2 gal with finishing heights around 40 inches yielding 2 oz minimum,or veg longer transplant to 3 gal veg another week,flower,and get 4 oz minimum per plant.The idea is letting the rootball fill each container before transplanting up,this is determined by having to water every other day.When I harvest in 2 gal,I'm still watering every third day so I know I'm cool.When I actually transplant,its with 75% dry soil.I loosen the soil from the container and pull straight up 99 out of 100 times,you want a strong stalk(oscillating fans)and a light rootball(75% dry).Getting dirt on your girls isnt for me lol
 

Farmer John

Old and in the way.
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This is one of the very first threads here :smile: brings a smile on my face...ah...those days of my old FJ handle...ah...
 
spensaur said:
Clear cups, that is a great idea instead of using red or blue beercups. Two thumbs up bro.


I've heard that roots dont like the light and that it will stunt growth, and thats why people use solid cups...Can anyone confirm this ?


TIP: I use clear cups INSIDE of the regular red cups. It makes it easy to pull out the clear cup and see the roots developing, but then it also blocks the light when you drop it back down inside the red/solid cup. Seems to work for me.
 
G

Guest

Just one of those goofy no-no's that someone got out of a book ions ago I'm sure,I've seen so many grows in clear containers on OG and here it aint funny lol.I think Obli is doing one right now.I'm sure the canopy of a healthy plant will shade any devious anti-root ray exposure lol
 
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G

Guest

Hi CC, been trying to contact you but I cant PM unless ther are 50 post.
 
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