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Totally Hidden Perpetual Organic SCROG

Gdawg61

Active member
This is my baby and she's up to full potential. My organics are dialed in. I will post more information with complete specs this weekend. It is odor and noise free and safe enough to allow folks total access to my crib. It has some unique features and is 90% complete. I hope this inspires my fellow growers.

Peace :wave:




 
G

Guest

thats impressive as hell man! i cant wait for the specs, i may steal an idea or two. :D
 
J

Jam Master Jaco

Very nice man. I've been thinking about a false wall in the closet myself. :wave:
 
Wow!!! That is a great grow you got going!!! It's gotta make you giggle like a little school girl when someone is sitting in that chair, not having the faintest idea of what's going on behind them.

Great Job!!!! Look forward to seeing more!!
 
Wow, awesome, finally an effective apartment stealth grow.

A question though: you have really small plants, why such big pots? By the pictures it looks like the pots take up like 50% of vertical space of each chamber, if not more.

But awesome setup.
 

Gdawg61

Active member
Okay here we go. First off I would like to state that I am prone to fuck things up, basically because I have been stoned the last 10years just about everyday. I don’t draw plans and tend to due things on the fly, in my head. It’s just the way I’m wired. I made MANY mistakes. Some were really stupid in hindsight. I’m an ex jar head and we ALWAYS get the job done one way or another, so problems are just challenges for me. This closet has evolved from my OG days when I grew ebb-n-flow using a baby bloomer in the main flower chamber. It was stealth, but not totally. Hauling water, mixing nutes, checking ph, temperature and all things hydro were starting to take up time. Then when OG went down I decided to go true stealth and organic. My first taste of organic C99 convinced me. Let me say that yield is not my priority. Taste, potency, and ease of growth are my selection criteria. I don’t sell and only grow for personal use. I share with my family and close friends. Of course I want to maximize any grow, I just don’t select based on yields. This cab still has some more work; I’m the worst procrastinator and put less important tasks off. I still have to build a bookcase type of higher quality to complete it plus add a big mirror and a few other things to make it look natural. So I will accept suggestions and comments, just please be civil. My methods are my methods and I don’t recommend them for everyone. My grow cab is designed to fit my needs only, and as you can see I have very high standards when it comes to “True” stealth. I really wouldn’t worry if a cop was standing in my closet. Of course they can find anything if they look, but this allows me to lead a “normal” life while doing what I was born to do without all the paranoia. I’m always worried, but this eases my mind a little




:wave:
 
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Gdawg61

Active member
Here’s a little Hydro history. The original cab consisted of 2 chambers. It had a mother/clone/veg and the main flower chamber. It worked pretty well. I didn’t use odor control so it stunk last few weeks of 12/12. The mother chamber measured 44x16x31, just a little over 3 square feet grow area. I use (2) 150W mogul base HPS to accommodate the rectangular profile. I’ve tried using (2) 100W, but got better yield with the higher wattage, plus more popcorn buds for hash. The best yield using GH nutes was 6oz with swt#3. I averaged 4 to 4.5 most of the time. My C99 pineapple pheno was my lowest yielder at 3.75oz. I knew my yields would drop using organic methods. I just need to grow enough for me with a little extra. I smoke 80% of what I grow; at least it has been that way. So I started planning.

My goals were to produce an odor and noise free grow chamber that was totally hidden and accessible. Ventilation, heat control and stealth were top priorities. I had to keep power consumption low. The airflow had to be low enough to keep costs down, but high enough to give the plants what they need. Easier said than done! The inlet had to be hidden as well. Venting from the attic isn’t an option, it’s used for exhaust. I used affordable low noise computer fans from Panaflo, they are highly recommended with their great balance of power/noise.
 

Gdawg61

Active member
I also wanted to add a third chamber for veg/flower. With two chambers I had to veg in the flower chamber for 2-3 weeks while they filled out the screen. I wanted to go directly from the veg to the flower chamber without ANY additional veg time. The soil allowed me the extra space I needed. I had to use the same basic “box” size. My harvest times are determined by the plant. I can harvest every 47-65 days. I like my 50 day strains. 65 days is long, but maybe worth it for the Strawberry Diesel. I can actually initiate flower in my veg chamber and have 3500CRI MH for that purpose. If I start 12/12 7-8 days before transplant it will give me another harvest per year. This is a future experiment. My flower chamber is 12/12 all the time and is always full. I have also eliminated transplant shock. That is why I build my own boxes. There are 2 important facts I have found. Size matters and deep is better than wide. I’ll explain a little later.

I went with 8 T5 fluorescents in the veg chamber at first. Actually I even tried 2 Envirolights first and that didn’t work out. The T5’s get hotter than most people know. I had to install glass and more ventilation as the temps were too high. It was poor planning on my part. If you use fluorescents you lose the light at the ends. The footprint was smaller than I wanted and I needed more veg time in flower chamber. I couldn’t go from T5 to HPS either. The plants took too long to adjust. Even though the veg box was root bound, the root ball of the flower box never filled the box. It was wider and deeper. I had to change so I went with 2 100W MH medium base 4000CRI. I had to cut the top out and re-engineer the chamber while adding better ventilation for the MH. It was a bitch, but I got ‘er done! I moved the HPS and MH ballast to the attic and will add cooling fans this week. All other controls are in “control” central. I use a 4” squirrel fan that pulls air over the 2 150WHPS and through the control center to open ventilation in the attic.

Then:








Now:






 
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Gdawg61

Active member
The speed controlled 8” duct fan vents through (3) 4“ vents (42 sq. in). The location of the box was not an option. The ceiling above had additional beams, so all I could do was cut small holes, another problem. I wanted to use (1) 8” vent, but went with (3) 4” and designed an adapter. The 8” fan is backup and additional power if needed. I haven’t had to use it. The (3) 4” ducks go to a box in the attic with a 8” vent to another odor control box that uses the 10” duct fan to pull air over 3 carbon filled screens. Its a little crude, but I built it and it works. I don’t have pictures yet. I added an additional 4”air inlet and (2) speed controls. I am able to keep the flower temps at the glass at 81F, mother chamber 85F, and veg at 92F with room temp at 78F. It works. The veg chamber can handle the hotter used up air. Its last in the airflow so the CO2’s low. I have 50 to 65 days to veg so it’s no problem at all. The flower chamber gets “first” air. CO2 is not an option, I constantly vent. I have to manipulate the controls and can use an open window to bring in cool air in the winter for even lower temps. I still have options and flexibility. The closet door will pull close when its 1 inch open so negative pressure is good, but not to much. My electric runs $250 or so running AC in summer, $140 in the winter.

Mother chamber: (6) HO 22” 4000CRI fluorescents
15”x16”x31”

Veg Chamber: (2) 100W MH 4000CRI medium base and 3500CRI MH for 12/12
18”x16”x31” with 4” glass enclosed roof extension for MH’s

Flower Chamber: (2) 150W HPS Mogul base
26”x16”x31” with 5” glass enclosed canopy

Intake: 3.5”x16” (56 sq in)
Exhaust: (1) 4” vent with squirrel fan for HPS and ballasts
(3) 4” vents with 10” 300cfm sped controlled duct fan
Homemade carbon scrubber.









 
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Gdawg61

Active member
I use 1-1-1 mix of FF ocean forest, Thunderbird potting and worm castings, adding perlite as needed. I also use greensand, Epsom salt, lime and soil moist for water retention. I make slight adjustments depending on strain. I don’t even use FF with my F13 grows.

For my flower mix I use a 1-1 mixture of Thunderbird and my homemade worm castings. I also add a little lime and mg. I then add the max dose of Budswell. This is the only dry fertilizer I use. This is the best; you can see results with it. Compare it side by side and you will see. I know there are many great ferts out there. I just like Budswell. I use molasses also and pure water in between. I foliar feed with Superthrive in veg and week 1 of 12/12. Then I foliar spray with Alaskan Fish Fertilizer once or twice, nothing on the plants after week 3. That’s when I alternate liquid Budswell, molasses and water until the last 2 weeks and then only flush with pure water.
 

Gdawg61

Active member
Here’s the method to my madness. First I build my own boxes. I found that my soil wasn’t being used up and the roots weren’t thick at the end of 12/12. I transplanted and went 12/12 at the same time the roots didn’t seem to fill the sides as well. I then decided to build a box that was exactly the same size only 4 inches deeper. That way the roots are forced down there isn’t any side space. The boxes in veg actually have 6” of soil depth It looks like more. The flower box has 10”. I grew a wide and short box next to a taller and narrow box and the taller box produces more yields, it just does. Roots like the vertical space better. My plants don’t stop growing when I transplant, in fact they seem to get a boost. I use the 3500CRI MH to “prepare” them for the HPS. They adjust without any stress. I force the roots to feed off my worm castings and budswell mix. I’m telling you there is not one sign of stress. When I remove the “brick” from the veg box I keep the same screen and just attach it to the new box. It works great. The flower box is lined with mil plastic, and 1” of rocks are added, then 3-4” of flower mix. The brick is set on top and bounced like a cake to settle it in. It then gets a good watering.

Another thing I have adopted is the use of multiple boxes. This means I can grow up to 3 strains at once. Height isn’t an issue as the box can be adjusted individually. The main reason, is that it allows me to incorporate a new seed grow without losing yields or growing shit. I grow the seeds in the smaller box. How many have grown out shit? This way if it sucks I still have a good harvest. I try and match flower times. In veg I have C99 S1 and Abog as my main boxes with 5 Big Buddah Cheeze females in the small box. In the flower chamber I have 3 StrawberryD, 2 Blockhead, 1 Hawaiian Indica, 1 re-veg C99 S1 and OPT. It gives me many options and I have boxes for a dual grow too. The last grow of Abog was 80% of its potential. I wasn’t able to fill the screen before 12/12. Abog is potent as shit, but an average yielder. I was able to pull 3.75 oz of organic bud in 47 days. The current grow is for moms. The next grow will be the true test as I am up to full speed. I hope the BB cheese is good smoke! Next is probably a StrawberryD and Hashberry grow. I think I am getting close to where my hydro yields were. I just love organic.

I hope this is enough as I’m tired as shit. If it was to long oh well I don’t post often and only when I have something to say.

Peace

I'll post pics later



 
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Sammet

Med grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hi mate, great grow. Im just about to start a grow with a few different strains, was just wondering about the height differences. So do you just raise or lower the boxes to keep them all the same height?
 

Gdawg61

Active member
Thanks for the props. I know it may look crude and unpolished, but I have flexability and true stealth. The 3 chambers have airlines and 1/8” irrigation tubing installed for adding a temp timed water source for long vacations. Soil is easier to maintain. I can also go hydro. There is an AC socket in each chamber for pumps, timers, and such. I use (3) Scientific America Temperature/Humidity monitors that report to a central station in my bedroom. I can track highs and lows and keep an eye on things. I don’t see a need to go back to hydro. I have wood floors so I don’t want to haul water back and forth. I use a kitty litter plastic container, a pump, and tubing connected to a modified sprayer with 1/8” tubing to reach the back. It’s just a homemade wand.

The sliding shelf supports 150lbs. I can go with 2 or 3 boxes. I have plenty of time to veg and fill my screen. The chambers are identical size except for height, so my goal is to fill the screen completely. You usually fill up 2/3 or so before 12/12. The stretch fills out the rest. I fill the screen completely because I transplant to the deeper box and go 12/12 the same day. I filled 2/3 of the screen with 3 different strains, Abog, OPT, and C99. The never filled out the way I wanted. Then I tried the full screen method, it works great. The growth slows enough to limit the stretch as it adjusts to the new soil. The roots are “forced” into the flower mix and don’t need to expand horizontally. The result is it looks like a normal SCROG with good yields. This is my method for my situation. I can’t recommend it for everyone. Transplanting at 12/12 has been taboo for the most part. This idea was inspired by the “Bog” method of placing the entire pot inside a larger one. It eliminates transplant shock and the roots have to go down.
 

Gdawg61

Active member
how do you train with the screens so low?

2 of the boxes are 2 gallons and the smaller one is about 1.7 gallons. The sizes are 13Lx8Hx8.5W with about 6” of soil depth used. The small box is 13Lx8Hx7W.
Screen height has to high enough to allow you access. If you have to put your whole arm under it needs to be higher. I have about 3-4” between the screen and the top, and 5” to the soil line. It’s just a matter of access, small boxes make it easy. The plant doesn’t care, they need soil, light, food, and water. They will grow anyway you want. It was tougher with the “thick” stemmed DJ strains, but it still works. Here’s my new saying, “the deeper they go, the bigger they grow”, referring to roots and bud size.
:lurk:






 
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