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Thrips 101: Introduction to Western Flower Thrips

zymos

Jammin'!
Veteran
I would be happier...
...but they sent me a bottle of Liquid Dr. Iron instead!! :mad:

Ordered from AG Organics off Amazon, and paid extra to get it here quick. UPS comes pretty late to my house- I shot 'em a letter as soon as I opened the package, but they haven't got back to me yet.
 

Buddah Watcha

Well-known member
Veteran
I have a bad infestation of thrips on only one out of 6 plants. They seem to only like sucking the blood of that one... I dont see anyone flying but there is a bunch under the leaves.

I sprayed the shit out of it with Spinosad Captain dead Bug for the past 3 days and they are still there. How long is it suppose to take to kill em all?

Any ideas on how to get completely rid of them? I'm thinking of doing a major defoliation on that one plant and hopefully get rid of the majority of the population...

Thanks in advance!
 

PistilPete

Enjoying the ride
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I sprayed Floramite on my girls last night and the thrips died immediately. No movement this morning either. Lots of little corpses everywhere.

Buddah Watcha - i would toss the heavily infected plant, if possible, then treat the rest.
 
Let me tell you I have dramatically reduced a thrip infestation by adding crab shell meal to the soil. It takes months for the chitin-eating bacteria to build up but the effect is devastating on the population and feeds the plants N, P, Ca and Mg to boot. Mix it in the soil and pile it on around the base of the plant for best results.
 

Buddah Watcha

Well-known member
Veteran
I sprayed again yesterday, this time a little bit more concetrate spinosad solution, and I really took my time spraying the shit out of the plant that is the worse. I did see some improvement to what it was... So I'll keep my eye open and see how it goes the next few days!

Do thrips turn yellow when they dead?

Thanks
 

Buddah Watcha

Well-known member
Veteran
Good news, checked last night and couldn't really see thrips activity, prolly was able to spot 1 or 2...

I'll probably spray again in a few days to be safe!

Spinosad is the way to go indeed!

Thanks guys!
 

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
Great thread, thanks to everyone who posted their experiences. I just wanted to add a close up pic of the black dots the little bastards leave behind. I will be picking up something with spinosad in it and treating my vegging plants.

picture.php
 

Kcshuffle

New member
Spinosad is defiantly the best thing that works even able to spray half way into flower no visible damage besides a lil burnt leaves not to dramatic. Only advised on sea of green method in flower just wanted to clarify that. Sm-90 works great for the dormant ones during veg. Give em the old one two don't fear them just educate yourself. :) :) Happy gardening boys and girls!!!!!
 

bookbinder

New member
spinosad is all-round good stuff it appears! great early into outdoor flowering ta ward off the various worm /cat's that cause bud rot, if ya use it when buds get a might denser it'll cause mold as u have to drench pretty good. It does help w/ fungus gnats some too as a drench indoors as it seems most effective as a larvicide same with da bud eatin caterpillars, ya still get 'em they jus don't grow up to do real damage. Didn't know it was a good contact spray but I'll try it & report as thrips are in da house, man what a battle if it aint mites it's powdery mildew n now dis crap! Good luck to all n keep on keeping on!!
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Querty,
I use it cuz I can get it locally. As far as safety goes, it's OMRI approved and OMRI sez it can be applied on the day of harvest. Not something I would do, but points to its low toxicity.

I have never used it on buds, and can't see myself ever doing that, except maybe up thru 2nd week of 12/12. With maximum dilution rate [2 oz/gal], I've never seen any phytotoxic effects of any kind with dunking foliage and drenching roots and medium to full saturation.

Works well. I mix up 4 gal in a 5 gal bucket, put a towel over the medium to avoid spilling it, turn plant and container upside down, and dunk in bucket. Gives 100% coverage.

**It's important to use a wetting agent [non-ionic surfactant].**

Three dunkings 36 hours apart [with same bucket of spinosad] takes Spider Mites out. Usually, I use the same bucket twice, then mix fresh for the 3rd treatment, then, since I've got it, I do a 4th dunk in 2-3 days. If the plants and containers are small, its easy to do, and takes little time, and makes a mess on the floor [I spray the floor anyway], but I don't have spray all over the reflective surfaces and glass.

I use it now to keep Root mofo Aphids at bay. I don't know of anything that takes them out once and for all. If they're on your premises, I think you're stuck with them, and will need to treat periodically to keep them from damaging your plants.

One caution is that, if you use beneficial nematodes, you need to wait 14 days after Spinosad drench before applying the todes. I'm starting the next run now with reused coco. Will drench w/ Spinosad, wait 14 days, apply RO w/ Clearex w/ 50% run off, then apply the todes. I want the todes to eventually starve to death cause they've wiped out the root aphids. Good luck. -granger
 

PistilPete

Enjoying the ride
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Yeah, i'm pretty impressed with the results from spinosad. I used the Green Light brand. Gonna grab a couple more bottles to have on hand in case of another infestation.
Thanks for all the info guys.
 
F

Forscher

Someone got some serious advice on how to use Spinsad properly indoors? Anything to take care off? Any circumstances to avoid?

Even though it is said to be generally pretty safe I am a bit worried because I live in a rather small flat and grow, eat and sleep in the same room ...

Thanks in advance!!
 
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