N
noone4u
So you feed the mom the same way as you feed the flowering plants?
and at the same time?
I dont mean to beat you to death with questions I just dont want to kill anything lol
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So you feed the mom the same way as you feed the flowering plants?
and at the same time?
I dont mean to beat you to death with questions I just dont want to kill anything lol
No worries...ask away homeboy.
I feed my moms & other plants in veg the same thing and at the same time. They get fed when the perlite is dry. Also, the weight of the container will tell you if they're running low. I feed enough but not too much. I've not any runoff this session and am very happy with that. I don't feed until there is 10% runoff, I found it to be a waste of nutrients & water (for me) I simply feed a little every other day and they drink it up and love it.
They get 1/4 strength across the board when it comes to the GH nutrients. When they go to flower, they get up to 1/2 strength GH nutes at first...then a week into flower I drop the amount of the first part of the 3 part, and increase the third part. I also increase the amount of sugar daddy from 2 tsp/gal to 4 tsp/gal. The karma gets bumped up to 2 tsp/gal while in flower. I maintain ph @ 5.8 throughout the entire cycle.
I was given some botnicare sweet by the kind lady @ the grow shop and intend on running a side by side by side (sugar daddy v/ sweet v/ molasses) to see if I can tell if there are any differences with the plant development. If the molasses wins....then it will be a LOT cheaper. Hope this helps....sorry for being wordy.
I feed my moms & other plants in veg the same thing and at the same time. They get fed when the perlite is dry. Also, the weight of the container will tell you if they're running low. I feed enough but not too much. I've not any runoff this session and am very happy with that. I don't feed until there is 10% runoff, I found it to be a waste of nutrients & water (for me) I simply feed a little every other day and they drink it up and love it.
They get 1/4 strength across the board when it comes to the GH nutrients. When they go to flower, they get up to 1/2 strength GH nutes at first...then a week into flower I drop the amount of the first part of the 3 part, and increase the third part. I also increase the amount of sugar daddy from 2 tsp/gal to 4 tsp/gal. The karma gets bumped up to 2 tsp/gal while in flower. I maintain ph @ 5.8 throughout the entire cycle.
I was given some botnicare sweet by the kind lady @ the grow shop and intend on running a side by side by side (sugar daddy v/ sweet v/ molasses) to see if I can tell if there are any differences with the plant development. If the molasses wins....then it will be a LOT cheaper. Hope this helps....sorry for being wordy.
toothpaste100
New member
Would a hempy bucket composed of Pro-Mix work? I'm guessing that it would compact too much... but what about a layer of hydroton at the bottom of the bucket to provide for the reservoir with Pro-Mix over top. I have a bail of pro-mix that I'd really like to finally put to use 
Lord Doobie
Member
dood, this was just mentioned
kids...ha ha
kids...ha ha
toothpaste100
New member
Huh? I know a fellow wrote many pages back about using ALL hydroton. When I search for pro-mix in this thread I am the only post that is listed, so please fill me in if I missed it...
Well, there was a result for "promix" from about a year ago but it went unanswered
Lord Doobie
Member
Isn't ProMix a peat or coco derivitive?
Maybe I'm getting mixed up because there are so many kids on these forums that are going to be rich after they get out of jail...
Maybe I'm getting mixed up because there are so many kids on these forums that are going to be rich after they get out of jail...
hey guys, does anyone have any opinions on using Smart Pots for hempy? would it work? any real benefits over using the traditional plastic containers?
also, would this work for an outdoor grow?
also, would this work for an outdoor grow?
a6grow-I believe they've been used outdoors before. I seem to remember it being done but have to look it up. I'd bet anything that it could be done outdoors, your frequency of watering would just adjust as the weather lets you.
deviant1-how do your plants look? I'm ashamed to admit it, but I've never checked my ph on the runoff. This grow I don't have any runoff (except for the plants that are being flushed) and my plants look great.
deviant1-how do your plants look? I'm ashamed to admit it, but I've never checked my ph on the runoff. This grow I don't have any runoff (except for the plants that are being flushed) and my plants look great.
a6grow-check this out...hope it helps you out
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=86515
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=86515
hey, people!
deviant1, earlier in this thread i posted some photos of the fittings i installed on my 10 gal containers. i installed those fittings expressly to monitor ph and tds. i took readings of my input solution and what was actually in the pot after watering. the results were surprising. i did a lot of experimenting and found that you have to input at least 10 points lower ph than you want the roots to be sitting in overnight. But if you do water 10 points lower the upper medium is getting bathed with ph at 4.8. not good.
the lower portion of your plants don't look too good, do they? i bet if everyone using these (irb's)were to sound off they would admit this. even though you may be growing some good yielding, good tasting, good potency bud the plants just don't look that good.
the inherent flaw to the internal reservoir container is that it suffers from a perpetual over/under watering syndrome. It is almost always too wet or too dry. you start the cycle with what you believe to be a correct input solution, say flora nova bloom @ 8 ml. This typically gives you a ph in ro water of 5.8 and a tds of around 950 at .5. immediately after watering you can easily have ph of 6.7-6.8 and a tds of 1250 upwards.
your roots are sitting in water initially and then they dry out over a 2 day period. Because you are starting with 2” in the bottom and a perched water table on top of that I feel the plant is not getting enough o2. As the medium dries out it undergoes a large ph swing and a large change in tds. At what point is the ph and tds “correct”? And for how long? Starting with a 2” res and another 1” of pwt you have lost 3” of air root space. Most people pot with medium 1.5-2” below the rim. You could easily lose 5” altogether leaving you only 9” of air root space in a 5 gal bucket.
Just some more stuff to think about.
If anyone reading this is using air pots I would like to know what hole size the pots use and the spacing pattern on centers.
Oh yeah, the second plant in a 10 gal perlite bucket yielded 9.96 oz. Not that great. Most of my 5 gal buckets do that well. 8 more to go.
Later on, d9
deviant1, earlier in this thread i posted some photos of the fittings i installed on my 10 gal containers. i installed those fittings expressly to monitor ph and tds. i took readings of my input solution and what was actually in the pot after watering. the results were surprising. i did a lot of experimenting and found that you have to input at least 10 points lower ph than you want the roots to be sitting in overnight. But if you do water 10 points lower the upper medium is getting bathed with ph at 4.8. not good.
the lower portion of your plants don't look too good, do they? i bet if everyone using these (irb's)were to sound off they would admit this. even though you may be growing some good yielding, good tasting, good potency bud the plants just don't look that good.
the inherent flaw to the internal reservoir container is that it suffers from a perpetual over/under watering syndrome. It is almost always too wet or too dry. you start the cycle with what you believe to be a correct input solution, say flora nova bloom @ 8 ml. This typically gives you a ph in ro water of 5.8 and a tds of around 950 at .5. immediately after watering you can easily have ph of 6.7-6.8 and a tds of 1250 upwards.
your roots are sitting in water initially and then they dry out over a 2 day period. Because you are starting with 2” in the bottom and a perched water table on top of that I feel the plant is not getting enough o2. As the medium dries out it undergoes a large ph swing and a large change in tds. At what point is the ph and tds “correct”? And for how long? Starting with a 2” res and another 1” of pwt you have lost 3” of air root space. Most people pot with medium 1.5-2” below the rim. You could easily lose 5” altogether leaving you only 9” of air root space in a 5 gal bucket.
Just some more stuff to think about.
If anyone reading this is using air pots I would like to know what hole size the pots use and the spacing pattern on centers.
Oh yeah, the second plant in a 10 gal perlite bucket yielded 9.96 oz. Not that great. Most of my 5 gal buckets do that well. 8 more to go.
Later on, d9
solarz
Member
^^ i read through this, and honestly...it was a bit much. Overly complicated if you ask me...but i'm typing that to say, that is why i use organics in my hempy buckets. I don't worry about ph, tds, ppms, etc...NONE OF IT! I just mix my medium well from the get go, and keep it watered throughout the grow when needed (which i typically water every 2 days regardless b/c i use amended coco in my hempy's and prefer to treat it like tru hydro (or as close to that as possible). I get great results, and use the simplicity to my advantage. I hope you get it all figured out bro.
also, F.W.I.W. the hempy buckets (straight coco, using Rez's recipe) that i have running side by side with the organic hempy have held there own. I just prefer the simplicity of using organics.
solarz
**delta, i'm not trying to jump down your throat...sorry if it came off that way.**
also, F.W.I.W. the hempy buckets (straight coco, using Rez's recipe) that i have running side by side with the organic hempy have held there own. I just prefer the simplicity of using organics.
solarz
**delta, i'm not trying to jump down your throat...sorry if it came off that way.**
D
Dalaihempy
Yes you keep telling your self that mate.
Attachments
someone find something technically wrong with my statements.
deviant1 ask why his ph was higher than his input solution. i gave him my honest opinion of why based on my experience with reading the ph and tds in the bucket after watering.
i've been growing using passive for 7 years, using all kinds of medium and nutrients. i did not say it doesn't work. old beat up trucks work too, but they are not high performance sports cars.
i personally have grown a lot of pot using various passive techniques and still strongly recommend the internal reservoir method for new people or for anyone who likes it.
deviant1 ask a question, i tried to answer it for him. what should i have said? should i have told him it was ok to run at 6.7? or should i have told him to just shut up and use it as instructed? don't ask questions? the why of things is important and should be understood.
hey, solarz, it's cool man! this is a free and open forum and all ideas should be entertained. if you have an alternative answer as to why the ph in the root zone is always significantly higher after watering in an irb i would really like to hear it. i'm always trying to learn.
at least we got hempy to put up some photos!
later on, d9
deviant1 ask why his ph was higher than his input solution. i gave him my honest opinion of why based on my experience with reading the ph and tds in the bucket after watering.
i've been growing using passive for 7 years, using all kinds of medium and nutrients. i did not say it doesn't work. old beat up trucks work too, but they are not high performance sports cars.
i personally have grown a lot of pot using various passive techniques and still strongly recommend the internal reservoir method for new people or for anyone who likes it.
deviant1 ask a question, i tried to answer it for him. what should i have said? should i have told him it was ok to run at 6.7? or should i have told him to just shut up and use it as instructed? don't ask questions? the why of things is important and should be understood.
hey, solarz, it's cool man! this is a free and open forum and all ideas should be entertained. if you have an alternative answer as to why the ph in the root zone is always significantly higher after watering in an irb i would really like to hear it. i'm always trying to learn.
at least we got hempy to put up some photos!
later on, d9
bostrom155
Active member
Have I mentioned that i LOVE this thread
Sorry, I missed this...to answer in short yes. The thing is, you can't allow your mix to hold too much water. In the propogator with the dome on, humidity will be retained, and if too much is retained and/or you don't clean out the excess water, algae will form. Now, from my understanding (at this may be a bit off) the green algae won't really harm your plants too bad. It's the environment which is created which can allow for the growth of mold and bacteria. I've germed mj, tomato, pepper, ovacado, lettuce and watermelon this way and had nearly 100% germination rate.
On a side note, I've placed cuttings in mini hempy cups and in rapid rooters side by side and had better success with overall plant health in the mini cups. The key is to create the best environment possible and trial and error are the best methods.
