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I've got some pretty large root mounds using blumats, but havn't seen anything like that yet!
I've actually started rotating my blumats so that they'll drip in one spot for a while forming a mound - then I'll spin the blumat to the other side and do the same. Curious if this will enhance yield as I've noticed the surface of the pot get very hard with roots where the blumat drips vs. the other side which is still a bit squishy. I've had a run-away blumat in a 2 gallon pot as the root surface was so hard water wasn't absorbing, but running off of it.
You clearly didnt do that and I'm curious how it affects our gardens.
Loved the show man - looking forward to hearing what you pulled.
Probably consumed ~5g before I was able to weigh it (pre-harvest sample stealing, trimming smoke fest, and drying during winter break; for calculations im going to round total to 118g)
Vegging (49 days from germination): wattage started with a single CFL and gradually increased to 144w worth of t5s (including ballast, assume 85% efficiency yields 122w of usable power)
Flowering (55 days): began with ~65w of LED, but was quickly scaled back and gradually brought back up to 60w (including driver, assuming 85% efficiency yields 51w of usable power).
Total grams / Total power used = 118g / (122+51) = 0.68gpw
I am happy with these results, but give myself a goal of 1gpw for the next round. Being my first time with nearly everything involved here, I encountered some issues with this run, which I plan to rectify in THE MAGMA CHAMBER II (coming soon)
I decapitated Lilly mid grow. - sorry
There were several issues with the lamp causing me to spend a lot of time messing around in the area where my canopy is, resulting in a few periods of missing or low lighting and the unintentional decapitation of Lilly. – again, sorry
The t5 placement was bound by the hoses, which were themselves bound by the need for mobility, resulting in clumped placement of the t5s and minimal white lighting near the extremities. Additionally the black hoses cluttered the space and robed light from the plants.
I do not think that the inter-canopy SCROG lights were beneficial enough to warrant their hassle.
Hi IC, long time no talk! I saw this one day and tried to take some artsy pictures, kinda looks like a volcano exploding eh?
So as promised I present to you:
The Magma Chamber 2: Return To The 36th Chamber
This is a panoramic shot of the cab showing the lamp and ventilation system.
There were some modifications that went into the cab for this round.
The lamp was mounted to the ceiling to reduce jostling based wear, and the associated failures, outcome: great success. This allowed the vent tubes to be placed flush against the walls maximizing usable area: outcome: moderate success.
I added a catch basin beneath plants in case of catastrophic runoff. If the blumats fail and the full 5 gallon rez emptied it would not overflow the 41L container. This was completely irresponsible and inexcusable to not have had this from the beginning.
The new basin restricts plant placement, but compensates with other benefits. It allows the plants to be uniformly raised and lowered using something as free as phonebooks (I used ones from a totally random town that I do not live in and am not associated with). The basin is an excellent spot to mount a SCROG to an in progress grow (went with a custom spider web job, wish I spent a little more time on it, but it performed admirably). The entire setup can be swiveled out to access the back plants or the lights. If the water is detached the plants can be removed.
The blumat feed lie was changed into a loop because I felt that the end of the linear setup was extra hard to adjust, maybe some of the nutrients settled there (I never used any line cleaning chemicals). It is a very simple set up that just added a single T valve at plant level.
The veg encountered some problems; the ~2 week old plants had ~3 days of darkness while I was out of town due to operator error, oops.
The assembled lamp/big pots/small plants/catch basin combination does not easily lend itself many setups where each plant is exposed to a high quality veg spectrum. If you look at the panoramic, very early on the 3000k bulb was replaced for the remaining 5000k to improve the situation, but there were still some sad plants, so I didn’t take many veg pictures.
On to flower! We are currently at approximately week 5 of flowering, everyone is chugging along nicely, and the sativa stretch has all but ceased.
This round we are playing with Green House Seed’s Sativa mix, my ladies are:
Shira - Super Silver Haze
Ariel - Arjan's Strawberry Haze
Aphrodite - Arjan's Haze #1
Nadya - Neville's Haze
Hawaiian Snow did not germinate :-(
A wise man once said:
"It doesn't matter if the glass is half full or half empty if you have a lot of glasses"
Ariel came down ~2 weeks before everyone else (@10 weeks). It was her time.
It was easy to flush her separately, I just (1) turned off her blumat (2) manually poured a lot of tap water through her with an pitcher (3) siphoned off the water.
had to make a custom drying rack since the cab was still occupied (erector set)
Here she is looking ominously at her sisters... they have all seen their fate now...
When the rest were ready to come out (12 weeks) I removed the whole tray and just walked them over to the sink, used the wand and siphoned directly into the drain.
I restrung the SCROG when I put them back in after the flush, I somehow managed not to break anything. I may go with something more traditional (or at leaset a littlme more thought through) then my half-ass spiderweb SCROG design next time.
After cutting everyone hung dry in the cab for a week (left a few untrimed, and did them before jarring)
That is a 15% improvement over last time. I think if I had 5 plants as planned, I would of been able to get closer to my 1gpw goal... next time... thinking about going Kush.
Sorry it has been so long since we last hung out but I have been really busy, and perpetually medicated
Let me bring you up to speed on where we are right now, I am nearing the end of the MAGMA CHAMBER III – insert witty subtitle here.
Vital stats:
5 feminized AK-48 seeds from Nirvana
Max light (gradually ramped up to it): 215W 48W 3500K fluro, 48W 5600K fluro, 48W 6500K fluro, 30W 630nm LED, 39W 660nm LED, giving me a total final flowering wattage of 192W (currently the average is 128W, i will report GPW figures for both numbers).
Veg: 7 weeks (went a little long due to neglect)
Currently: week 6 of flowering
I decided to go with one strain this time rather than the mixed genetics packs from GHS that I have become so fond of. This was to simplify harvest (don’t have to keep track of 5 diff plants and have separate jars for each), and to synchronize growth rate and harvest time.
There was some unhappy looking plants during the first few weeks (almost lost one), but lesson learned, get them under blumats ASAP, no dicking around with my haphazard hand watering. Also I thought I had a TMV scare for a hot minute and I almost chucked a plant. I started adding H2O2 to the reservoir and occasionally administered a crushed up aspirin, the plants perked up and there have been no more indications of TMV. These early issues led to a longer than anticipated veg, but NBD cuz it’s a fast flowering strain (~8 weeks) and im still stocked from May’s harvest ( I <3 my volcano).
Evidence for TMV
My buddy took back the pH/TDS meter that I was borrowing, so this round I have been flying blind in regard to TDS, and have been using the color changing drops to monitor pH. I have all my feeding records from last round and have been basing my nute regime on that. Between the blumats and the coco, this setup is so forgiving, that even without the meter I think this is the healthiest crop I have ever grown. Currently im feeding (all units as __/gallon) 6ml micro, 9ml bloom, 6ml CalMag, splash of H2O2, spritz of pH down, and every once in a while a crushed up aspirin or 2 (pretty much stopped with the asprin because they look fantastic and because I think it was leading to solid precipitation in my rez and potentially in the dripper lines, I have only dumped the rez once, won’t do it again till flush)
Not a lot of new modifications this round. Only notable change is the SCROG which was built out of an up-cycled broken over the door bungee towel rack. One side was cut off, and the remaining pole was attached directly to the flood tray using zipties. But avast! the towel rack only came with three bars whatever shall I do?? For the remaining SCROG post I took one of the fluorescent tube protectors that I had to scrap from my original design (LINK), cut it hot dog style, wound it tight, would another one around it, ziptied the entire concoction together, and ziptied one of the short ends I cut from the other posts to the top, Ka-pow!
One unavoidable consequence of attaching the SCROG posts directly to the tub is that I had to drill some (24!) holes in it which compromised my failsafe against runaway blumat flooding. I attempted to plug the holes with hot glue but did not trust its effectiveness. So for the month after installing I only put 1 gallon of water in the reservoir at a time (the lowest holes were ~1” off the bottom of the tub giving some protection against a small flood (there was only one instance of a runaway blumat, the tub was on an angle, and a couple of ounces may have leaked before the rez ran dry, all got absorbed by the phonebooks, added bonus!). For a better fix I purchased a second tub and double stacked them. This brings back the original 41L of leak resistance and adds more structural rigidity to the tray.
Building the last post
Building the SCROG, I love how easy it is to rotate out the plants to access everyhing.
Attachment points detail
Completed SCROG
Fun stuff: I was able to get my hands on some badass equipment to check out my setup (from top left): Fluke Ti-25 Infrared Camera (MSRP ~$6,000), FLIR i3 IR camera (~$2,000), Rosewell IR thermometer (~$20), Kill-o-Watt power meter, Extech lumen meters. I used the thermal cameras to look at the LEDs while they were running at full power to see how effective the heat dissipation was, and to look for any hot spots indication connection problems. No groundbreaking findings, but some of the cooler pics are shown below. The expensive thermal camera has fusion technology so it takes a visual spectrum image alongside the IR one to give a better idea of what the picture is of.
Most of the LEDs were running between 110-and 130F. There were a few running hotter, and the hottest one was at 246F! The hottest LEDs will be removed and remounted after harvest.
Hot LEDs
Normal LEDs
It was pretty cool to see the heat going through the fluro cool tubes: Left, intake, right exhaust (from the cheaper camera)
I tried to do a study comparing the light temperature (as measure with the IR thermometer, and controlled by the fan speed), the ballast temperature (measured with the IR camera, and controlled by the utility room fan and the absence/presence of the heatsinks), and the light output (measured with the lumen meter), but laziness took over and I never got any good data. I am going to stick with what I read somewhere that 95F is the most efficient temp to run T5s at, sometimes I cool em down a bit further if I want to keep the plants cooler.
Doing some testing
Some bud porn
And what I am sure you have all been waiting for, some IR pics of the volcano! We tried taking some of blowing bubbler smoke, but it was either not hot enough or too dilute to see
That’s all for now, I will be back in about a month with the mature bud shots and the final weight.
Mega Props. Check into aquarium (coral) bulbs. You can get them in LED type nms, and some even have built in reflectors (see my journal).
Check out ULV, ATI, or Wave Technologies offerings. You can get actinic blues which would kick up tric production, and one that offers a decent 500-550 nm (green- essential for max chlorophyll A/B production).
I am using 3 different methods: Flood & Drain (using lava rock), High Pressure Aero and Air Pots. I just got a brain fart to replace the soil with lava rocks in my Air Pots.
What is your impression of the balance in the power levels between the T5's and the LED's? I am in the final stages of building a hybrid PL-L/LED fixture and am running a way richer mix of LED's than what you have. My luminaire utilizes (4) 55 watt PL-L lamps interspersed with (3) LED bars, each of which uses (41) Golden Dragon Plus 660 nm LED's. It appears as though my cooling will handle pushing each bar to 60 watts or so, and my drivers can easily handle that power level. So, I am looking at totals of around 120-180 watts of LED's and 220 watts of PL-L, and grow in a scrog format. Do you have any input on what I might expect? Thanks.
@PetFlora: I did some research into aquarium bulbs during the design process, I was looking at the Hagen Glo line, the Aqua Medic line, and the Wave Tech line (http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=144677). I ended up using the standard bulbs due to price and availability. In a round or two I plan on going to full LED and moving the t5s into some sort of veg/mother room.
@rives:
I have no way of knowing the balance between the LEDs and fluorescents. I could use the light meters to get some numbers, but they wont mean anything because the plant sees the red so much more vibrantly then either I or the meter. All I can say for sure is that they seem to like the combo.
Some input on what you might expect? A big ass dank harvest, you have a ton of watts and they seem to be concentrated over a pretty small space (beautiful set up so far, everyone should check it out here: http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=33188 btw what was the reason for putting the perforated aluminim front plate over the LEDs?).
Thanks for the kind words. The cover plate is just to protect the LED's and the wiring, and it cleans up the appearance. I want the finished luminaire to look comparable to a commercial product.
*edit* You motivated me to add a few more pictures that I hadn't gotten around to putting up. I hope to do a how-to on it when I get the damn thing finished!
What are the temperatures of the T5's?
What would the temps of the T5's be if they were not encased in cooling tubes? I read earlier in this thread that the ideal temp is 95f for peak efficiency. Would bare T5's run cool enough to allow plants to touch them without needing cooling tubs? I am working on a new cab and I am thinking of CFL's up top (I have done that before with GREAT results) and some verticle T5's
T5s do not radiate heat. Plants can be within 1". That said, plants can grow fast under T5s, requiring frequent raising to prevent bleaching of the top
Hi all, I wrote/never-got-around-to-posting this circa May 2012. As of 12/2012 round 4 is complete and round 5 is mid flower. Will give current update soon.
I realize I never got back to you with my harvest results… I got 106g for kind of disappointing ~0.5 GPW (lamps with ballasts, at final flowering wattage), but that number is misleading since the lights ramped up during flower, and were occasionally out due to maintenance. I am keeping better track of my energy consumption, and will try to report some interesting harvest/metric results after completion. I was hoping for more, but I can’t complain because I am in stock, and I know there are plenty out there who are without.
In other news, round 4 is under way. Major upgrade planed for round five circa 9/2012, I have been brainstorming and it is going to be sweet; tell your friends.
Strain: Gyspy Nirvana Sativa Seedbank Raspberry cough femenized
This is my first sativa, and my first non-hybrid I guess… I will have to research that and get back to you.
I finally concocted a decent veg light, out of my normal ballast, and two daylight pl-l’s that I had laying around. Hung them with eyelets to the ceiling with wire from a 5star notebook. Whole. cost $0
Started them in their full size airpots from day 2 and with blumats from day 4.
Had one runt throughout veg, but she perked up during flower. They almost overran my space, but I managed to reign them in, but just barely.
Had some weird growth algal (?) in my GH Floora, still using it with no visable adverse effects, will start flush by the time the new stuff gets here, so finishing off the end of this.
Shameless promotion: Check out my now-quite-thorough (and beautiful if I do say so) paraphernalia collection!
@ DSM, the IR thermometer picks up ~97F at the hottest part of the tube (take that for what it is worth because the thermomitor is measuring the surface of the cool tubes