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The Haze discussion thread

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JohnnyChicago

Well-known member
OT1OH incense pheno
haze19aa (2).jpg
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
The one Ace Purple OTH that cracked way back. It was my first experience growing a pure NLD. It kicked my butt. The other OTH pics I've seen look alot better grown might have to pop some of the pack Ace sent since they didnt germ. Its just labled OTH this pic was from POTH. I did get some males but havent tried the f2. Your guys look better!
 

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@hempy

The Haze Whisperer
There was a discussion on what light raysheem is best for Haze / Sativas / Heavy expressive sativas.

Some said 12/12 some said 11/13 and some said even 13/11.

You can go as low as 7/17 and still achieve good results but yield will be reduced compered to say if flowered at 11/13 that is the trade off.

These were flowered at 7/17 (seed plants )


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They did get a little taller and filled out a lot more but over all looked the same very manageable.

The same plants (clones ) flowered under 11/13

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They still have a long way to go in flower.

So if you have issues with space and they just will not stop flowering dont be afraid to reduce the light time your plants are being grown under.

You can also put a rooted clone into flower and use the time they take to sex as veg.
 

Piff_cat

Well-known member
There was a discussion on what light raysheem is best for Haze / Sativas / Heavy expressive sativas.

Some said 12/12 some said 11/13 and some said even 13/11.

You can go as low as 7/17 and still achieve good results but yield will be reduced compered to say if flowered at 11/13 that is the trade off.

These were flowered at 7/17 (seed plants )


filedata/fetch?id=18038622&d=1641855602
filedata/fetch?id=18038623&d=1641855658

They did get a little taller and filled out a lot more but over all looked the same very manageable.

The same plants (clones ) flowered under 11/13

filedata/fetch?id=18038624&d=1641855843
filedata/fetch?id=18038625&d=1641855871

They still have a long way to go in flower.

So if you have issues with space and they just will not stop flowering dont be afraid to reduce the light time your plants are being grown under.

You can also put a rooted clone into flower and use the time they take to sex as veg.

Looks great thanks for the advice. Nevils progeny haze definitely like some unique requirements requirements that only experience can teach. You and sammy have it down
 

Chi13

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
There was a discussion on what light raysheem is best for Haze / Sativas / Heavy expressive sativas.

Some said 12/12 some said 11/13 and some said even 13/11.

You can go as low as 7/17 and still achieve good results but yield will be reduced compered to say if flowered at 11/13 that is the trade off.

These were flowered at 7/17 (seed plants )


filedata/fetch?id=18038622&d=1641855602
filedata/fetch?id=18038623&d=1641855658

They did get a little taller and filled out a lot more but over all looked the same very manageable.

The same plants (clones ) flowered under 11/13

filedata/fetch?id=18038624&d=1641855843
filedata/fetch?id=18038625&d=1641855871

They still have a long way to go in flower.

So if you have issues with space and they just will not stop flowering dont be afraid to reduce the light time your plants are being grown under.

You can also put a rooted clone into flower and use the time they take to sex as veg.

Just curious. Did you notice any difference between potency or effect when using 7 hours of light?
The reason I ask is that I have read elsewhere that reduced light = reduced potency, but not sure if this is right or not?
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
I’m turning 61 in April , and grew up in the north east coast of USA .1st time I got high was in 1973 on Lebanese blonde hash I remember rolling around on the ground in uncontrollable fits of hysterical laughter till my ribs hurt:biglaugh:

Rolling on the ground in uncontrollable laughter happend to me and a lightweight friend on one occassion about 6 months after I started smoking. It was some nice sticky bright green brick a friend scored off some Columbians although who knows its origin. Wish I could have that happen again!
 

JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
I would like to see what happens under something crazy like 14 dark/22 light (36 hour day). By extending the day beyond 24 hours I wonder if there's a balancing point where you get faster flowering from the longer night, but negate the loss in yeild by extending the 'day' hours. Possibly the balancing point would be the same as simply going 12/12 in terms of total days in flower.
 
I would like to see what happens under something crazy like 14 dark/22 light (36 hour day). By extending the day beyond 24 hours I wonder if there's a balancing point where you get faster flowering from the longer night, but negate the loss in yeild by extending the 'day' hours. Possibly the balancing point would be the same as simply going 12/12 in terms of total days in flower.

I have heard that there is a point at which the plants stop absorbing light. Ive heard of people running 6/2 in veg (three cycles in 24 hour period) for this reason. The logic behind it is that after 6 hours of light, the plants get a short break to convert some of the energy to food, which then enables them to take in more light again.
I have used differing light schedules in veg, like 6/6 to slow down growth and keep plants smaller for longer. But Ive never messed about with the flower schedule.
 

JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
I have heard that there is a point at which the plants stop absorbing light.

Daily Light Integral - I forgot about that; I’ve seen a ‘Bugbee’ lecture on YouTube that goes into it:
(https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ID9rE5JewVg)
Lower light levels mean you can run a longer day, higher light levels mean shorter.

I don’t have the gear to measure any of that unfortunately.

Following Hempys low light for sativas protocol, maybe for the long flowering strains it could be a viable strategy.
 

Thule

Dr. Narrowleaf
Veteran
There's a general consensus that autoflowering plants will yield less when flowered at 12/12 instead of 20/4 for example. If a photoperiod sensitive strain is able to flower at more light hours than the standard 12/12 then doesn't it make sense they might yield more with longer light hours and more lumens?

If I flower a pure haze, an automatic haze and an early Nepalese strain, I doubt 13/11 or 12/12 will be the sweet spot for all of them. I think there's a lot to be discovered here.
 

CannaT

starin' at the world through my rearview
There's a general consensus that autoflowering plants will yield less when flowered at 12/12 instead of 20/4 for example. If a photoperiod sensitive strain is able to flower at more light hours than the standard 12/12 then doesn't it make sense they might yield more with longer light hours and more lumens?

If I flower a pure haze, an automatic haze and an early Nepalese strain, I doubt 13/11 or 12/12 will be the sweet spot for all of them. I think there's a lot to be discovered here.

I run Autos on 12/12 didnt find lack of yild or nothing just a myth I think. Compared to grown 18/6 nothing has changed.
 

Piff_cat

Well-known member
I think it's less about yield and foliage but more about secondary metabolites and resin. More light may mean more primary metabolism but we aren't growing leaves and stems. Finding the sweet spot of max yield without losing cannabinoid and terpene concentration. At a certain size dilution begins.
You can remedy this either by increasing precursor production and accelerating its metabolism.. this could be done thru polyploid followed by selection and inbreeding.. or an easier way would be to use a more effective organization strategy. Growing 10 small single cola ladies compared to one lady with 10 colas will become more efficient and profitable. Finding that point for each cultivar will teach us alot. The arbitrary plant counts written into legislation have created an artificial limit that's distracted the industry.
 
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