Is your PH consistent? Small drifts in pure hydro will start to raise N, not a problem for hybrids and indicas but could cause issues with pure sativas.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
The Haze discussion thread
- Thread starter @hempy
- Start date
- Status
Is your PH consistent? Small drifts in pure hydro will start to raise N, not a problem for hybrids and indicas but could cause issues with pure sativas.
Humple W.
Well-known member
I'm interested to know what NPK ratio you're feeding your sativa/Haze-leaning plants! I mentioned previously in this thread that I'm holding off on popping my OHaze seeds because I'm not all that confident in my ability to feed them properly in hempy buckets. I know you're in soil, but the principle must be the same if Hazes need significantly less nitrogen than standard commercial hybrids.
I am actually growing ACE's Killer A5 Haze right now (figured it would be an easier grow than the OHaze), and so far I've been feeding them the same as my other plants. Won't be all that surprised if they go south on me soon though, as I'm only 2.5 weeks into flower, so I'm looking to adjust the feed to reduce nitrogen at some point in the not-to-distant future. Here are my two KA5H plants at exactly 2 weeks in - pretty sure they lean more to the Haze/A5Haze than the Malawi. (I assume it's appropriate to post here, since I see other Haze hybrids posted to this thread?)
That is not something I can do. I use V&B dirty in flower. It's a powered 1 part Nutrient. This is all my plants get. Nothing I can do to lower just N. Even if I were using a different nutrient I don't see how lowering just N would be possible. In veg I use PBP. I could use a lower PPM but I use only 450.. Maybe 350 would be better for hazes?. I think they're all great other than the slight tip burn. I'm not sure going lower EC would fix it. I can't say the tip burn is nutrient related. It could be from other issues like not enough run off, or fans or my temps. It is hot in my flower room. I'm gonna try feeding more so I get a good runoff out the bottoms so there isn't any salt buildup...
Last edited:
goingrey
Well-known member
I've had good results with Biobizz Bio Bloom. NPK is 2-7-4. This was in soil.
I have Bio Bizz on the shelf. I've not used any of that yet. Its NPK is 1-2-2 on the bottles of bloom ..
goingrey
Well-known member
Interesting. Seems like they sell the same product with two formulations, wonder why.
1-2-2
2-7-4
Oh well. Both seem ok. Same N:K ratio.
BioBizz has changed the composition/NPK values of their Grow and Bloom atleast two times since i last bought them. I’ve had few bottles on the shelf and haven't bought any for few years now, so i actually don’t know what their NPK levels are today. Different stores sell different versions of their nutes depending who you're buying from. Very annoing.
..Yet their feeding recommendations have stayed exactly the same thru out them changing the NPK ratios two – three times the past five years. LOL
I'm glad i've writen down the NPK ratios i have been tinkering with the past few years, so i can always mix something similar even thou i might use a different nute line or if BioBizz changes their stuff again.
Your plants look very nice so far. I doubt you’ll run into much trouble if you keep taking it easy with their feed.
Here’s a link to Ace Seeds’ OT Haze thread which has lots of tips of indoor Haze growers. Maybe the ACE boys can give you an advice on the NPK ratios for pure Haze/sativa growing.
https://www.icmag.com/forum/icmag-ve...ldtimer-s-haze
In short, it’s low EC of 1.0 to 1.2 and go easy with Nitrogen after the stretching starts to slow down.
Why they recommend lower nitrogen levels for Hazes is because too much N keeps them flowering longer. In another words, they finish flowering faster if they don’t get too much N in later half of bloom.
I’ve read, and seen it myself also, that too much nitrogen will stress cannabis. So they will show intersex traits easier if they’re being fed too much nitrogen.
-
-
Some info on the webs about V&B Dirty’s NPK ratio state that it’s 8-5-13
..If so then it’s actually quite close to the Grow-component of BioBizz i’m using, which is 4-3-6, so i think you could find a better nute line for weed growing.
That V&B Dirty could be fine for seed making, cause i have read cannabis likes more N and less P when they’re developing seeds, but to me it seems to have too much N for growing Sensi weed, based on my experiences with BioBizz and their NPK ratios.
The good thing about two-component nutes is that you can tinker with the ratios abit as the flowering weeks roll by.
I use BioBizz nutes mainly cause they are fairly cheap. It’s the only organic nute line i have used during 10+ years, so i can’t say it’s better or worse than other lines.
Imo, many nutrients sold for cannabis growers eem to have abit too much Nitrogen for my liking jsut like BioBizz does, and that’s why i have started replacing some of the Nitrogen heavy component with PK 13/14 for the last few weeks of feeding.
-
-
About the NPK levels i’ve been trying lately.
First i have to make it clear..
I’m really no NPK expert. Why i started tinkering with the NPK ratios i use is because i wasn’t happy how the bud smoked (abit too harsh) when i used the feeding schedule recommended by BioBizz, which is around 1:1 ratio of their Grow and Bloom. BioBizz nutes aren’t cannabis specific nutrient line and cannabis grows just fine with about 40-50% of what BioBizz recommends.
At first i started lowering the Grow part and upping the Bloom part but cause i still wasn’t happy with smoking product, i started replacing some of the Grow-component with Plagron’s PK 13/14 (1:1 ratio) for the last week or two that i feed my plants. And that improved the smoking experience noticeably. Much smoother smokes.
For the last 5+ weeks of bloom i give my plants only water and BioBizz TopMax which is a bud booster.
I grow in regular super market potting soil, so nothing fancy.
Here’s how i feed my G13Haze keeper (harvest around 12 weeks)
..last run i gave it about 2,8ml/L of nutrients. This run i’m dropping it abit to 2,6ml/L. I imagine these amounts would be around EC 1.0 to 1.2 but i don’t measure EC so i can’t say for sure, but it' not too far off.
BioBizz Grow (NPK 4-3-6) + BioBizz Bloom (NPK 2-7-4) in milliliters per liter of water
Week 1: 1,5 + 0,5 (NPK 7-8-11)
Week 2: 1,5 + 0,7 (NPK 7,4-9,4-11,8)
Week 3: 1,3 + 1,1 (NPK 7,4-11,6-12,2)
Week 4: 1,3 + 1,3 (NPK 7,8-13-13)
Week 5: 1 + 1,6 (NPK 7,2-14,2-17,2)
Week 6 and week 7: 0,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 of Plagron PK13/14 (NPK 5,2-16-16,75)
...then just pH adjusted water and TopMax till harvest. I water them with very little run off so i don’t flush out nutrients too fast till about 10 weeks of bloom. During the last two weeks i may flush the container with large amount of water few times depending how the plant is yellowing/fading by that time.
Additives etc:
0,3ml of Canna CalMag/L , Hesi SuperVit, Seaweed extract + Fulvic acid powder once a week, Top Max starting mid-bloom.
Again..
There’s no scientific research or studying behind the NPK ratios of that feed. I just try to keep the Nitrogen level low-ish, without compromising P and K levels too badly, in order to get smoother smoking bud.
I hope it helps or atleast gives you something to think about and basis for your own trials for smoother smokes.
Your plants look very nice so far. I doubt you’ll run into much trouble if you keep taking it easy with their feed.
Here’s a link to Ace Seeds’ OT Haze thread which has lots of tips of indoor Haze growers. Maybe the ACE boys can give you an advice on the NPK ratios for pure Haze/sativa growing.
https://www.icmag.com/forum/icmag-ve...ldtimer-s-haze
In short, it’s low EC of 1.0 to 1.2 and go easy with Nitrogen after the stretching starts to slow down.
Why they recommend lower nitrogen levels for Hazes is because too much N keeps them flowering longer. In another words, they finish flowering faster if they don’t get too much N in later half of bloom.
I’ve read, and seen it myself also, that too much nitrogen will stress cannabis. So they will show intersex traits easier if they’re being fed too much nitrogen.
-
-
Some info on the webs about V&B Dirty’s NPK ratio state that it’s 8-5-13
..If so then it’s actually quite close to the Grow-component of BioBizz i’m using, which is 4-3-6, so i think you could find a better nute line for weed growing.
That V&B Dirty could be fine for seed making, cause i have read cannabis likes more N and less P when they’re developing seeds, but to me it seems to have too much N for growing Sensi weed, based on my experiences with BioBizz and their NPK ratios.
The good thing about two-component nutes is that you can tinker with the ratios abit as the flowering weeks roll by.
I use BioBizz nutes mainly cause they are fairly cheap. It’s the only organic nute line i have used during 10+ years, so i can’t say it’s better or worse than other lines.
Imo, many nutrients sold for cannabis growers eem to have abit too much Nitrogen for my liking jsut like BioBizz does, and that’s why i have started replacing some of the Nitrogen heavy component with PK 13/14 for the last few weeks of feeding.
-
-
About the NPK levels i’ve been trying lately.
First i have to make it clear..
I’m really no NPK expert. Why i started tinkering with the NPK ratios i use is because i wasn’t happy how the bud smoked (abit too harsh) when i used the feeding schedule recommended by BioBizz, which is around 1:1 ratio of their Grow and Bloom. BioBizz nutes aren’t cannabis specific nutrient line and cannabis grows just fine with about 40-50% of what BioBizz recommends.
At first i started lowering the Grow part and upping the Bloom part but cause i still wasn’t happy with smoking product, i started replacing some of the Grow-component with Plagron’s PK 13/14 (1:1 ratio) for the last week or two that i feed my plants. And that improved the smoking experience noticeably. Much smoother smokes.
For the last 5+ weeks of bloom i give my plants only water and BioBizz TopMax which is a bud booster.
I grow in regular super market potting soil, so nothing fancy.
Here’s how i feed my G13Haze keeper (harvest around 12 weeks)
..last run i gave it about 2,8ml/L of nutrients. This run i’m dropping it abit to 2,6ml/L. I imagine these amounts would be around EC 1.0 to 1.2 but i don’t measure EC so i can’t say for sure, but it' not too far off.
BioBizz Grow (NPK 4-3-6) + BioBizz Bloom (NPK 2-7-4) in milliliters per liter of water
Week 1: 1,5 + 0,5 (NPK 7-8-11)
Week 2: 1,5 + 0,7 (NPK 7,4-9,4-11,8)
Week 3: 1,3 + 1,1 (NPK 7,4-11,6-12,2)
Week 4: 1,3 + 1,3 (NPK 7,8-13-13)
Week 5: 1 + 1,6 (NPK 7,2-14,2-17,2)
Week 6 and week 7: 0,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 of Plagron PK13/14 (NPK 5,2-16-16,75)
...then just pH adjusted water and TopMax till harvest. I water them with very little run off so i don’t flush out nutrients too fast till about 10 weeks of bloom. During the last two weeks i may flush the container with large amount of water few times depending how the plant is yellowing/fading by that time.
Additives etc:
0,3ml of Canna CalMag/L , Hesi SuperVit, Seaweed extract + Fulvic acid powder once a week, Top Max starting mid-bloom.
Again..
There’s no scientific research or studying behind the NPK ratios of that feed. I just try to keep the Nitrogen level low-ish, without compromising P and K levels too badly, in order to get smoother smoking bud.
I hope it helps or atleast gives you something to think about and basis for your own trials for smoother smokes.
I've used V&B dirty for 6 years now. Its specifically formulated for us soil/soiless growers. It's obvious it works very well. All of my grows show this. All of the people that get some of my flowers love the quality. They love everything I grow and always come back. If there were any issues it would be easy for them to go elsewhere, they don't
. Quality is all that matters when growing good cannabis. Again not possible to lower any specific nutrient using any nutrient line. You would need to be able to mix up your own to do that. IMO Nutrients are rarely a cause for unhealthy plants. What we use in flower is not the only source. What we used in veg also plays a role. As long as there's plenty of MICRO/MACRO nutrients plants ask for they will do fine. I've not come across bad nutrients to grow cannabis for 40 years, all work. Some like yourself will think there is better nutrients to grow cannabis with. If you prefer xxx brand use that. I prefer V&B. We all use what works for us. For me, V&B dirt works great in soilless medium for flowering, I would have changed long ago if it wasn't so good. I have no plans on changing. It cant be used for hydro. V&B makes different nutrients for that. Here is the info about their lines.https://hydroponic-research.com/shop/
Last edited:
I've used V&B dirty for 6 years now. Its specifically formulated for us soil/soiless growers. It's obvious it works very well. All of my grows show this. I vend to some of the best here in cali. They love what I grow and always come back. If there were any issues it would be easy for them to go elsewhere, they don't
https://hydroponic-research.com/shop/
For me growing healthy plants and growing Marijuana are two different things = Well faded cannabis plant at harvest time isn’t the most prettiest plant in existence but it will smoke alot better and smoother than ”healthy” green plants.
I can also bloom a plant using only BioBizz Grow, it will flower, but i really don’t want to smoke the flower of that plant.
I grow cannabis not Marijuana.. Quality cannabis is the only concern any of us should care about. If you prefer xxx brand of nutrients use it. Plenty of us are not gonna use what you like.
A well faded plant can look outstanding when done right lol.. Grown with V&B dirty.. Our growing skills play more of a role IMO. Those of us that have been growing all our lives can grow very well.
Last edited:
Why the pissy attitude? What did i write to deserve this bullshit? F off, Hammer.
I really don’t give a shit what nutrients people use. I wrote that i use BioBizz mainly cause it’s cheap, couldn't say it's better or worse than other organic lines and now you’re giving me attitude for some childish reason.. LOL Whatta muppet.
If cannabis plant has been fed with too much Nitrogen thru out it’s bloom cycle it won’t smoke smooth regardless how yellow it gets before harvest time. Haven’t you learned anything thru decades of growing?!
..who am i talking to, you’re a guy who grows weed with a nutrient that should be used for veg stage.
Why the pissy attitude? What did i write to deserve this bullshit? F off, Hammer.
I really don’t give a shit what nutrients people use. I wrote that i use BioBizz mainly cause it’s cheap, couldn't say it's better or worse than other organic lines and now you’re giving me attitude for some childish reason.. LOL Whatta muppet.
If cannabis plant has been fed with too much Nitrogen thru out it’s bloom cycle it won’t smoke smooth regardless how yellow it gets before harvest time. Haven’t you learned anything thru decades of growing?!
..who am i talking to, you’re a guy who grows weed with a nutrient that should be used for veg stage.
Nothing I posted was pissy. You kids can't seem to take people that don't agree with your opinions so you take it as pissy lol. All you di is assume. You have no clue what I grow or how I grow. Why are you quoting me move on lol. It was you that started with my nutrients that were not good for cannabis lol. It's always in the haze threads where people lose it lol.
Spot on.. I'm positive the tip burn is caused by salt build up. Increasing my runoff should fix the problem. I started today with a good runoff to leach out any buildup. Ill continue that for a few weeks. They had some tip burn last week as well. I never increased my EC it's been a gradual decrease over time.
OldCoolSativa
Well-known member
Wrong. Jack's 3-2-1 allows you to mix calcium nitrate (part B) separately from Jack's Hydro (part A) and epsom salt (part C). After 5 years of hydroponics, I just switched to soil because it was so hard to keep sativas looking good to the finish line. I don't claim to be a great grower, but I think organic soil will make me a better grower. To each their own.
Hammerhead ,You can mix each nutrients separately with Aptus line, you can buy bottles of N, P, K, Cal, Mag and mix them as you want. I think it's the only nutrient line who allow you to give a custom made feed to every plants of your grow but it's pretty expensive.
HEMPY This THH1, the octopus pheno, is looking the best out of the lot health wise looking pretty good on day 1 of flip. Since I am running powdered salt based nutes I have been flushing once a week for 2-3 feeds. All are in 5 gallons of pure Hydroton on a recirculating ebb flow drip.
Here is the other long flowering THH5 longest flowering smell like fresh mint when you pop the top. This one is looking better on new growth since dropping nutes a wee bit. You can see the older fans are damaged but its not too bad I had worse tip burn in dirt last 2 tries.
New growth looks unaffected so far but you can see the burn. This one is probably the most affected if you add the 2 todd in. The THH1 and A5 look pretty good IMO. I understand that this is very tricky as I already knew they all ideally need their own mix but had to give it a run.
Here is the long Todds that gives me wild visuals. Its the largest and lankiest going to need some rope to tie her back. This one gives me some concern due to its size but the rest of the lot needed more time to bush out.
LT
Here is the other long flowering THH5 longest flowering smell like fresh mint when you pop the top. This one is looking better on new growth since dropping nutes a wee bit. You can see the older fans are damaged but its not too bad I had worse tip burn in dirt last 2 tries.
New growth looks unaffected so far but you can see the burn. This one is probably the most affected if you add the 2 todd in. The THH1 and A5 look pretty good IMO. I understand that this is very tricky as I already knew they all ideally need their own mix but had to give it a run.
Here is the long Todds that gives me wild visuals. Its the largest and lankiest going to need some rope to tie her back. This one gives me some concern due to its size but the rest of the lot needed more time to bush out.
LT
@hempy
The Haze Whisperer
I honestly dont know why you guys get so bent out of shape over the smallest of things.
A nutrient comes with a standard recommended mixing ratio from the manufacturer. The veg formula gives you a seedling mix normally ( a weaker mix ) and a vegetable growth mix ratio. The flower formula will give you a mix ratio and all are based on your water being a neutral 7ph to start with.
You can not change the formula you have one option you weaken the mix that is it.
If your using a RO filter you need to add CalMag.
GoatCheese no sativa heavy hybrid or sativa will show feeding problems in veg so Humple W. plants will look perfect up until they start to show sex (in extreme cases ) but normally you will see it as it has in hammers once the flowers start to develop.
How you guys going to remove N from a pre made nutrient ?.
I am the guy that shared the hempy bucket with the community so i do know a thing or 2 about growing plants in them.
A nutrient comes with a standard recommended mixing ratio from the manufacturer. The veg formula gives you a seedling mix normally ( a weaker mix ) and a vegetable growth mix ratio. The flower formula will give you a mix ratio and all are based on your water being a neutral 7ph to start with.
You can not change the formula you have one option you weaken the mix that is it.
If your using a RO filter you need to add CalMag.
GoatCheese no sativa heavy hybrid or sativa will show feeding problems in veg so Humple W. plants will look perfect up until they start to show sex (in extreme cases ) but normally you will see it as it has in hammers once the flowers start to develop.
How you guys going to remove N from a pre made nutrient ?.
I am the guy that shared the hempy bucket with the community so i do know a thing or 2 about growing plants in them.
@hempy
The Haze Whisperer
Hi Lost you shouldn't have any issues until the plants start to flower and some times you wont have issues on some plants weeks into flower some half way threw flower and in some plants even weeks before harvest.
I have never seen it in veg only in flower.
This plant showed it early into flower i went to 1/2 strength feeds very early into flower and half way threw went to 1/4 strength feeds.
This plant had full feeding up until half way into flower and then 1/2 strength feeding almost to harvest with a few weeks of 1/4 feeding until flush.
You can not pre determine what a heavy sativa hybrid plant will need in flower you just need to watch them and dial / tune each plant in but once you do its easy you know exactly what that plant needs as far as feeding in flower.
I have never seen this in Sativa plants that i grew directly into the ground.
I have never seen it in veg only in flower.
This plant showed it early into flower i went to 1/2 strength feeds very early into flower and half way threw went to 1/4 strength feeds.
This plant had full feeding up until half way into flower and then 1/2 strength feeding almost to harvest with a few weeks of 1/4 feeding until flush.
You can not pre determine what a heavy sativa hybrid plant will need in flower you just need to watch them and dial / tune each plant in but once you do its easy you know exactly what that plant needs as far as feeding in flower.
I have never seen this in Sativa plants that i grew directly into the ground.
- Status
