mahoosive!
love it. makes me miss growing outdoors
I. Like. BIG. Plants and i cannot lie
V.
love it. makes me miss growing outdoors
I. Like. BIG. Plants and i cannot lie
V.
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herbal gerbil
New member
What a thread!
Loved it soo much I just had to join today. It is my icmag birthday!!
I have been checking this site out for a few mounths now and it is time for me to join you all. Thanks to all for your sharing knowledge and experience.
Question for you all and Rootwise. Can someone explore info on raised, "breathable" planters on top of an already prepared bed of soil? Rootwise stated inhanced oxygen flow. Could there be too much o2 flow, hence drying out? Anyone made there own elevated raised breathable planters out of wire mesh and landscaping fabric?
One thought I had was a plastic 50 gal container with 2-3 inch holes drilled all over like swiss cheese.Cut top and bottom off, burry half in ground. Then wrap the inside with landscaping fabric. Fill w/dirt etc...This might grow big plants.
Any thoughts?
HG
Loved it soo much I just had to join today. It is my icmag birthday!!
I have been checking this site out for a few mounths now and it is time for me to join you all. Thanks to all for your sharing knowledge and experience.
Question for you all and Rootwise. Can someone explore info on raised, "breathable" planters on top of an already prepared bed of soil? Rootwise stated inhanced oxygen flow. Could there be too much o2 flow, hence drying out? Anyone made there own elevated raised breathable planters out of wire mesh and landscaping fabric?
One thought I had was a plastic 50 gal container with 2-3 inch holes drilled all over like swiss cheese.Cut top and bottom off, burry half in ground. Then wrap the inside with landscaping fabric. Fill w/dirt etc...This might grow big plants.
Any thoughts?
HG
J
*Journeyman*
I've seen people extend the growing season with supplemental lighting. More efficient with a well trained plant (canopy) though and only in a greenhouse. My buddy used that technique, he only grew one monster for his personal stash as most everything else in the field was only 2-3 lbs. In retrospect he might have been better served manipulating the light cycle to initiate flowering a month early but then he'd have lost that month of veg/flowering time.
The guy up the street did not care with his hydroelectric powered greenhouse
Tom...mainly looking forward to your feeding regimen on this topic.
J
*Journeyman*
What about bud structure itself? You mention that a bit but was taught you want something a little loose. My buddy had stuff that looked fluffy but when ground it up just a sticky mess. He said important to have light penetration not only into the plant itself, he was a pruning/training maniac and I have the scars to prove it lol, but into the buds also a bit. Last time I asked you did not seem to be big on training/pruning plants to manipulate the structure.
D
danimal7
ok , I'm gonna trust you guys on the early flower/reveg/flower thing. It has happened to me a couple of times and had me gunshy on going too early . I am also realizing that most everything Ive grown outside was a fast flowering indica dominant , I guess this was my problem. I have those long flowering genetics I spoke of and Im gonna give them a go ...and early
yep, I'll be shitten bricks when I hear them choppers
yep, I'll be shitten bricks when I hear them choppers
Thx TomHill, i suppose its sea bird guano & bat guano ... unless you mix something else .
Butte man, please stop with pictures like that ... I feels shame to show mine ... yea it really hurts
Well, all my plants (clones, or from seed) are under 16/8 until Apr.
Than I switch them on 15/9 and keep like that for 2-3 weeks.
Usually they are transplanted in 3rd week of Apr max 01 May.
I use some personal compost recipe, Fish mix liquid, Nettle tea and Bat guano.
Any of growing places have at least 9-10 hours of direct sunlight.
I do not have toy like Butte ,but I use compass and my eye
This year I will use Bluberry Haze, Godsend, Sour Bubble BX3, SAGE x Jack Herer and Grape god.
Butte man, please stop with pictures like that ... I feels shame to show mine ... yea it really hurts
Well, all my plants (clones, or from seed) are under 16/8 until Apr.
Than I switch them on 15/9 and keep like that for 2-3 weeks.
Usually they are transplanted in 3rd week of Apr max 01 May.
I use some personal compost recipe, Fish mix liquid, Nettle tea and Bat guano.
Any of growing places have at least 9-10 hours of direct sunlight.
I do not have toy like Butte ,but I use compass and my eye
This year I will use Bluberry Haze, Godsend, Sour Bubble BX3, SAGE x Jack Herer and Grape god.
O
onlychild
Tom & Butte thank you for the massive inspiration.
1. question though, what is the time period for bloom in your amazing gardens?
For me I have to look for girls who finish mid september ;-(
I'm sure I'm not alone with this, so any strain advice for us looking to finish in september besides moving lol, is appreciated...
1. question though, what is the time period for bloom in your amazing gardens?
For me I have to look for girls who finish mid september ;-(
I'm sure I'm not alone with this, so any strain advice for us looking to finish in september besides moving lol, is appreciated...
SacredOutlaw
Member
hey guys,
WOW, amazing pics. i do like big plants, the problem is some colas get so dense that you start to git boitritis mold. i find that root space and complete drenching during feedings is key. Of course the more hours of light, the better. There comes a point where the plant gets sooo big it is producing more leave than fruit, this being the case, ive been experimenting with planting 10 seedlings per pot, then after sexing, ending up with 3-5 females in a pot. this produced great product and excellent yield compared to one single plant. enclosed are some pics.
-S.O.
WOW, amazing pics. i do like big plants, the problem is some colas get so dense that you start to git boitritis mold. i find that root space and complete drenching during feedings is key. Of course the more hours of light, the better. There comes a point where the plant gets sooo big it is producing more leave than fruit, this being the case, ive been experimenting with planting 10 seedlings per pot, then after sexing, ending up with 3-5 females in a pot. this produced great product and excellent yield compared to one single plant. enclosed are some pics.
-S.O.
Attachments
inspiration for bare-bulb tree gardeners.
after long veg...
enjoy your garden!
Hey what do you guys with those massive containers think about 200gal smart pots?
this is a Colombian X DC (F1), younger and older, same plant, pics and grow compliments of one "TNTin". As you can see, DC got completely gobbled up by a true tropical Sally (structurally, at the very least), and this is quite common actually. -Tom
Here´s the same plant almost ready...
pics courtesy of TNTin
SacredOutlaw
Member
hi, i think the smart pots only come in 100 gallon sizes. i prefer big plastic pots. ive used 100 gallon pots but the plants needed to be fed twice per day as the rott area was not big enough. and were talking 2 complete drenchings per day. i would use 300 gallon pots next time. theyre expensive but they last forever.
Fisher, good to see and hear from you. We’ll shoot your space with the SunEye the next time!
Glad you pointed out the Casey Jones. The same friend that pulled that big Blue Dream did really well with Casey Jones the year before if I’m not mistaken. I agree that spacing is very important and recommend 15’ centers as a starting point although I have gone down to 10-12’ myself. Things will grow together at that spacing in my experience.
Tom, you flatter me. Would be happy to pimp out the SunEye...I’ve seen even more gardens with this than before! As for lights, I think I’ll always run them. Trying to keep pushing the envelope (both metaphorically and light wise).
I like where you’re going with your plant description. We ran a (BKxDC)xSSH this year that I let go completely natural with no pruning or training and it looked very sativa growing through the summer. Then it started to put on the beer can colas throughout. Very interesting, but didn’t have the punch we’re looking for. Here’s a picture just before harvest on Nov 2.
Regarding above ground pots, I think it was you Tom that I first saw building your own. I use the same fencing every year and replace the liner cloth. Works great and is cheap. I think originally the fencing cost me around $25.
Happy gardening - Butte
Glad you pointed out the Casey Jones. The same friend that pulled that big Blue Dream did really well with Casey Jones the year before if I’m not mistaken. I agree that spacing is very important and recommend 15’ centers as a starting point although I have gone down to 10-12’ myself. Things will grow together at that spacing in my experience.
Tom, you flatter me. Would be happy to pimp out the SunEye...I’ve seen even more gardens with this than before! As for lights, I think I’ll always run them. Trying to keep pushing the envelope (both metaphorically and light wise).
I like where you’re going with your plant description. We ran a (BKxDC)xSSH this year that I let go completely natural with no pruning or training and it looked very sativa growing through the summer. Then it started to put on the beer can colas throughout. Very interesting, but didn’t have the punch we’re looking for. Here’s a picture just before harvest on Nov 2.
Regarding above ground pots, I think it was you Tom that I first saw building your own. I use the same fencing every year and replace the liner cloth. Works great and is cheap. I think originally the fencing cost me around $25.
Happy gardening - Butte
i used to grow out door but i've never got my plants to get pass 5 -6 ft, you guys growing monsters are canabis's god
much much
much much
Hi all,
Since I have switched over to do some of these larger plants I have been looking/breeding towards the perfect genetics as I am sure many are. There seems to always be some problems with my choices from currently available clone selections. Salmon Creek was OK (10lbs+), but put out on may 20 or so it got caught up in this 3 bladed funk for months, kept growing but stalled to be sure -it's borderline. Snowcap (10lbs+) was glorified Mexican bud and below standards. Trainwreck (10lbs+), a nice narrow leafed plant had a hair-trigger for flowering and that caused many problems. Trainwreck also has 1/8 of a root system and we want a vigorous root system. Trainwreck helps to make up for all of its undesirable traits though with an incredible stretch. But, we want to put more together in one plant and not have apparent strengths covering clear weaknesses and I have yet to see what I am truly looking for. Just because a plant is later harvesting, doesn't necessarily mean a built in protection against spring flowering, but it does seem to help quite a bit. Super Silver Haze (several different cuts) had a hair trigger for flowering (no doubt from the Skunk 1 influence) though it came in 3-4th week October. Many plants that have been selected for indoors have this problem it seems. Many narrow leaf strains out of commercial seed banks flip their switch quicker than even the likes of Deep Chunk, so it's a hunt for a clone that does what it's supposed to do in this situation. The search continues as we muddle along. I'd like to and plan to get there via a tailor made Haze hybrid of my own but that is some ways off yet (1 gen and a massive hunt). In the mean time I am rifling through clones currently available. This Blue Dream cut seems to show promise? I hope to have a look at it this year anyhow. Oddessy, Romulan, Hindu Kush, Bubba, man I can't even count the cuts that were absolute and utter failures in this situation - most of them are imo.
Spacing, about 14ft on center will give you 2 ft walkways between 12 ft wide plants. 12 ft wide is about what to shoot for in a 10lb+ plant. A wider base (container etc) will give a wider plant. I like 6 ft minimum containers, 8 ft is better. No need to go any deeper than about 18 inches imo.
The details of feeding is a minuscule consideration imo compared to the above paragraph. Build a plant from down low. When I started growing in this fashion there were no large breathable containers available anywhere. They are available now, but they are a rip-off imo, build them yourself, and spend the extra money on MORE dirt
I have come to seek for the mid bud structure myself, somewhere around the halfway mark between broadleaf hashplants and narrow tropicals. The broadleafs want to become afflicted with mold, the narrows are wispy. Middle ground is best imo.
Danimal7, Keep doing the Kushes, but get to it and finish them via blackout by Aug 1rst when they will be in maximum demand. Save the narrows for the long season finish when competition is all about town and raising hell anyway.
Salmon Creek
Trainwreck
Here's a big Salmon Creek... trunk
Since I have switched over to do some of these larger plants I have been looking/breeding towards the perfect genetics as I am sure many are. There seems to always be some problems with my choices from currently available clone selections. Salmon Creek was OK (10lbs+), but put out on may 20 or so it got caught up in this 3 bladed funk for months, kept growing but stalled to be sure -it's borderline. Snowcap (10lbs+) was glorified Mexican bud and below standards. Trainwreck (10lbs+), a nice narrow leafed plant had a hair-trigger for flowering and that caused many problems. Trainwreck also has 1/8 of a root system and we want a vigorous root system. Trainwreck helps to make up for all of its undesirable traits though with an incredible stretch. But, we want to put more together in one plant and not have apparent strengths covering clear weaknesses and I have yet to see what I am truly looking for. Just because a plant is later harvesting, doesn't necessarily mean a built in protection against spring flowering, but it does seem to help quite a bit. Super Silver Haze (several different cuts) had a hair trigger for flowering (no doubt from the Skunk 1 influence) though it came in 3-4th week October. Many plants that have been selected for indoors have this problem it seems. Many narrow leaf strains out of commercial seed banks flip their switch quicker than even the likes of Deep Chunk, so it's a hunt for a clone that does what it's supposed to do in this situation. The search continues as we muddle along. I'd like to and plan to get there via a tailor made Haze hybrid of my own but that is some ways off yet (1 gen and a massive hunt). In the mean time I am rifling through clones currently available. This Blue Dream cut seems to show promise? I hope to have a look at it this year anyhow. Oddessy, Romulan, Hindu Kush, Bubba, man I can't even count the cuts that were absolute and utter failures in this situation - most of them are imo.
Spacing, about 14ft on center will give you 2 ft walkways between 12 ft wide plants. 12 ft wide is about what to shoot for in a 10lb+ plant. A wider base (container etc) will give a wider plant. I like 6 ft minimum containers, 8 ft is better. No need to go any deeper than about 18 inches imo.
The details of feeding is a minuscule consideration imo compared to the above paragraph. Build a plant from down low. When I started growing in this fashion there were no large breathable containers available anywhere. They are available now, but they are a rip-off imo, build them yourself, and spend the extra money on MORE dirt
I have come to seek for the mid bud structure myself, somewhere around the halfway mark between broadleaf hashplants and narrow tropicals. The broadleafs want to become afflicted with mold, the narrows are wispy. Middle ground is best imo.
Danimal7, Keep doing the Kushes, but get to it and finish them via blackout by Aug 1rst when they will be in maximum demand. Save the narrows for the long season finish when competition is all about town and raising hell anyway.
Salmon Creek
Trainwreck
Here's a big Salmon Creek... trunk
Hair trigger flowering? By this do you mean plants flowering in the spring outdoors? Isnt this due to improper hid light schedules from when they were kept indoors? I thought you could defeat this by timing your light cycles up with the day/night time schedule of the date you are putting them outside? Like a smooth transition.
Or do some strains just flower at like 14/10, 15/9, 13/11 ect...? Please xplain and get me on the right track. When is a safe date, or day/night time, to put plants outdoor that have been under 16/8 veg lighting with no worries of them triggering into flower too early? I rarley run into this prob cuz i put plants out so late in the season, but this year will be different, so i need advice.
I have some IN bubblegum that starts to flower mid july! 2weeks before any of the other 12 strains. It also finsihes 2 weeks earlier. Its nice to always be the first one in town with quality dry nuggets 2 weeks ahead of schedule every year. Im guessing i should put that strain out last in fear for it triggering in early spring, since its the first to flower in mid july...
Not monsters by any means, but i felt obligated to share a pic. BUDLOVE
Or do some strains just flower at like 14/10, 15/9, 13/11 ect...? Please xplain and get me on the right track. When is a safe date, or day/night time, to put plants outdoor that have been under 16/8 veg lighting with no worries of them triggering into flower too early? I rarley run into this prob cuz i put plants out so late in the season, but this year will be different, so i need advice.
I have some IN bubblegum that starts to flower mid july! 2weeks before any of the other 12 strains. It also finsihes 2 weeks earlier. Its nice to always be the first one in town with quality dry nuggets 2 weeks ahead of schedule every year. Im guessing i should put that strain out last in fear for it triggering in early spring, since its the first to flower in mid july...
Not monsters by any means, but i felt obligated to share a pic. BUDLOVE
Heya Smurfin'Herb,
Yes that is what I mean, plants that charge quickly to flower simply because a cloud has passed over etc. We can fudge it quite a bit with lighting duration, temps, and intensity. This last very important (intensity) factor always seems to get left out for some reason. Everything I read how long a plant has vegged for or needs to veg for or how big it should be by X date lighting intensity is overlooked. As if a plant under a flouro will behave anything close to a plant under a 1k hid. For preparing plants for outdoors, I prefer to use less lighting than normal.. If I use 1k's they might be a minimum of 4ft above the canopy. The thought is that I want increasing intensity, duration, etc as I move outside. I also try to make sure I go out during the light of the moon (waxing). Just as many things we know to have relevance should be on the increase as we move outdoors - lighting duration, intensity, temperatures, nitrate availability, etc. Some earlier strains are OK out early, some not, this is often related to harvest date, but there are exceptions. Once we start hybridizing this is what happens, it is not predictable and is more of a by guess and by golly situation.
One way to cover some territory on this is to start about 3 times as much as you'll finish and transplant in phases, three times spaced about a week apart. after they are in the ground for a few weeks you can cull all but the best specimens. I have employed this often, it helps to deal with the runts that hammer the overall average.
The factors are very numerous indeed to put it as mildly as I can, and I do not believe it will be very much simplified anytime soon - it keeps it interesting to say the least. -T
Yes that is what I mean, plants that charge quickly to flower simply because a cloud has passed over etc. We can fudge it quite a bit with lighting duration, temps, and intensity. This last very important (intensity) factor always seems to get left out for some reason. Everything I read how long a plant has vegged for or needs to veg for or how big it should be by X date lighting intensity is overlooked. As if a plant under a flouro will behave anything close to a plant under a 1k hid. For preparing plants for outdoors, I prefer to use less lighting than normal.. If I use 1k's they might be a minimum of 4ft above the canopy. The thought is that I want increasing intensity, duration, etc as I move outside. I also try to make sure I go out during the light of the moon (waxing). Just as many things we know to have relevance should be on the increase as we move outdoors - lighting duration, intensity, temperatures, nitrate availability, etc. Some earlier strains are OK out early, some not, this is often related to harvest date, but there are exceptions. Once we start hybridizing this is what happens, it is not predictable and is more of a by guess and by golly situation.
One way to cover some territory on this is to start about 3 times as much as you'll finish and transplant in phases, three times spaced about a week apart. after they are in the ground for a few weeks you can cull all but the best specimens. I have employed this often, it helps to deal with the runts that hammer the overall average.
The factors are very numerous indeed to put it as mildly as I can, and I do not believe it will be very much simplified anytime soon - it keeps it interesting to say the least. -T
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