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G
Guest
He's planning on growing in it.
J
JackTheGrower
No offence but a cover crop is turned under at some point.
Fresh green should be high in nitrogen I would assume.
Hey I'm learning right along with you all.
So let's do this together!
Fresh green should be high in nitrogen I would assume.
Hey I'm learning right along with you all.
So let's do this together!
J
JackTheGrower
I like the idea that I know the vegetation is free of any chemicals and or pesticides.
and Just like the recommendation that a compost pile be about three feet around to heat up right this 4x4 supports microbial life well.
I hope that once the vegetation is turned under that it will be a feast for the microherd but I'll have to wait and see if it works that way.
In the realm of greens and browns this will be a major shot of greens.
It's new and exciting to me.
I'm very open to suggestions so fire away.
and Just like the recommendation that a compost pile be about three feet around to heat up right this 4x4 supports microbial life well.
I hope that once the vegetation is turned under that it will be a feast for the microherd but I'll have to wait and see if it works that way.
In the realm of greens and browns this will be a major shot of greens.
It's new and exciting to me.
I'm very open to suggestions so fire away.
You should only be growing legumes for a green manurecrop if you want to add nutrition to the medium! Legumes are able to form a symbiosis with Nitrogen-fixing Rhizobium spp. where the rhizobium live in small balls or nubs hanging off the roots of the legume....
Monocots and other non N fixing plants will only add organic matter to the soil because all the nutrients it adds comes from soil around their roots..... If you are growing in a peat medium, this would have little effect on the % organic matter and may even cause a drop in pH because of all the material being degraded by soil microorganisms.
I hope you added a touch of dolomitic lime to your mix before this....
Monocots and other non N fixing plants will only add organic matter to the soil because all the nutrients it adds comes from soil around their roots..... If you are growing in a peat medium, this would have little effect on the % organic matter and may even cause a drop in pH because of all the material being degraded by soil microorganisms.
I hope you added a touch of dolomitic lime to your mix before this....
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J
JackTheGrower
pipeline said:You should only be growing legumes for a green manurecrop if you want to add nutrition to the medium! Legumes are able to form a symbiosis with Nitrogen-fixing Rhizobium spp. where the rhizobium live in small balls or nubs hanging off the roots of the legume....
Monocots and other non N fixing plants will only add organic matter to the soil because all the nutrients it adds come from soil around their roots..... If you are growing in a peat medium, this would have little effect on the % organic matter and may even cause a drop in pH because of all the material being degraded by soil microorganisms.
I hope you added a touch of dolomitic lime to your mix before this....
Hey Pipeline..
Thanks for the heads up on the suggestion for the Nitrogen-fixing legumes. Gromer was a bit worried about it too.
LOL I had a bag of bird seed on hand and you know us organic gardeners, why go buy when you own already.
I'm not sure what is in the bird seed except the obvious sunflower. Could the small round seeds be a Legume of some kind?
I use very little dolomite lime. My choice is crushed oyster shell. I add it in proportion with other materials.
As you wrote "Monocots and other non N fixing plants will only add organic matter”
This will do fine this time out.
I wonder if I can get these "Monocots" to absorb liquid nutrients such that when they are turned under they will offer more then what they can absorb from the organic soil around them.
Maybe I can spray them when I do turn them under with other materials and let the microherd get to munching?
I am open to suggestions.
J
JackTheGrower
Today is Friday August 24, 2007
Bioactivity has peaked and that is a good thing.
I'm open to suggestion of feeding this crop. I have alfalfa liquid as a base so your suggestions are welcome.
After all this is a thread for everyone.
Some of you may know me from other sites and I hope that those that do, know I try to make good threads.
I hope my threads are less "hey look how cool I am" and more interactive and informative so that we all learn.
I welcome your input on how this "cover crop" can be made the best it can be.
I'm beginning to consider materials to turn under with the green plants and I'd love to read what amendments you would suggest.
Bioactivity has peaked and that is a good thing.
I'm open to suggestion of feeding this crop. I have alfalfa liquid as a base so your suggestions are welcome.
After all this is a thread for everyone.
Some of you may know me from other sites and I hope that those that do, know I try to make good threads.
I hope my threads are less "hey look how cool I am" and more interactive and informative so that we all learn.
I welcome your input on how this "cover crop" can be made the best it can be.
I'm beginning to consider materials to turn under with the green plants and I'd love to read what amendments you would suggest.
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May find some helpful links here in my Organic Links thread: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=35066&page=1&pp=15
Check out a fertilizer mix called espoma plant tone, any of its ingredients would be good to consider using.....
Remember, crushed oyster shell may suppliment calcium, but it more than likely does not contribute any magnesium to the soil as does dolomite.... Don't leave it out because it is at the heart of every single molecule of chlorophyll!
Any nutrients you add should be aimed at the microbial populations in the media, not the cover crop! Organic amendments and liquid organic fertilizers, when applied to soil, begin to be degraded by soil microbes which causes the plant nutrients to exist in forms (ions) available for plant uptake.....
Wouldn't be quite as much return on your effort in my opinion....to feed the cover crop then let the microbes degrade that material into plant nutrients once again....
Fresh alfalfa tea.... Not sure how beneficial that would be in adding available plant nutrients to the soil..... I'd rather see it decomposed before feeding to the crop....
I would try some manure tea, it seemed to work for my neighbor's corn last year!
Also guano is a good source of beneficial microbes and some even come with mycorrhizae inocculant (foxfarms)!
Check out a fertilizer mix called espoma plant tone, any of its ingredients would be good to consider using.....
Remember, crushed oyster shell may suppliment calcium, but it more than likely does not contribute any magnesium to the soil as does dolomite.... Don't leave it out because it is at the heart of every single molecule of chlorophyll!
Any nutrients you add should be aimed at the microbial populations in the media, not the cover crop! Organic amendments and liquid organic fertilizers, when applied to soil, begin to be degraded by soil microbes which causes the plant nutrients to exist in forms (ions) available for plant uptake.....
Wouldn't be quite as much return on your effort in my opinion....to feed the cover crop then let the microbes degrade that material into plant nutrients once again....
Fresh alfalfa tea.... Not sure how beneficial that would be in adding available plant nutrients to the soil..... I'd rather see it decomposed before feeding to the crop....
I would try some manure tea, it seemed to work for my neighbor's corn last year!
Also guano is a good source of beneficial microbes and some even come with mycorrhizae inocculant (foxfarms)!
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J
JackTheGrower
The http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/soilmgmt.html link is very informative.
Aimed at outdoor farming I still enjoyed the read thank you.
Honestly I need to evaluate what I need to amend this season.
Bioactivity is a given here so, thanks for the dolomite heads up and mag.
Aimed at outdoor farming I still enjoyed the read thank you.
Honestly I need to evaluate what I need to amend this season.
Bioactivity is a given here so, thanks for the dolomite heads up and mag.
J
JackTheGrower
Today is Saturday August the 25th
The growth is terrific but it's a crowded plot.
Imagine bean sprouts being sprouted in a jar and you have the density of the plants growing in this space.
It's a bit of a mixed bag because the temperature of the soil is still reporting in at 100 F.
This is stopping deep root development IMO and I'm just not going to feed any nitrogen for the obvious reason.
So look at the "carpet shot" you will notice some browning. That's the price I am paying then again its really dense growth so caring too much is just not realistic under these conditions. Some will die
I am proud of my soil. I believe that I have done well as it looks as rich as any you can find or buy and this is hand made and loving tended.
The growth is terrific but it's a crowded plot.
Imagine bean sprouts being sprouted in a jar and you have the density of the plants growing in this space.
It's a bit of a mixed bag because the temperature of the soil is still reporting in at 100 F.
This is stopping deep root development IMO and I'm just not going to feed any nitrogen for the obvious reason.
So look at the "carpet shot" you will notice some browning. That's the price I am paying then again its really dense growth so caring too much is just not realistic under these conditions. Some will die
I am proud of my soil. I believe that I have done well as it looks as rich as any you can find or buy and this is hand made and loving tended.
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J
JackTheGrower
Today is Monday the 27th.
I'm still seeing a report of temps around 100 F but it is at the bottom of the soil and not in the upper portion of the soil box.
It proves to me that the bottom of my soil is getting enough air to support high microbial activity and that there is a goodly amount of greens and browns down there.
Up top I have a thick mass of vegatation and I have decided I need to feed some nitrogen and other things to support growth.
It's really a huge mass of plants.
I'm not in fear of cooking the upper layer of soil or killing off the "green manure crop."
Not afraid if I keep it realistic.
I will make a base of alfalfa liquid and add some liquid kelp or whatever I have on hand and feed tomorrow.
Mostly with these many plants I'm sure the fight for nitrogen must be on.
I'm seeing some brown patches.
So perfect this first try is not.
I'm still seeing a report of temps around 100 F but it is at the bottom of the soil and not in the upper portion of the soil box.
It proves to me that the bottom of my soil is getting enough air to support high microbial activity and that there is a goodly amount of greens and browns down there.
Up top I have a thick mass of vegatation and I have decided I need to feed some nitrogen and other things to support growth.
It's really a huge mass of plants.
I'm not in fear of cooking the upper layer of soil or killing off the "green manure crop."
Not afraid if I keep it realistic.
I will make a base of alfalfa liquid and add some liquid kelp or whatever I have on hand and feed tomorrow.
Mostly with these many plants I'm sure the fight for nitrogen must be on.
I'm seeing some brown patches.
So perfect this first try is not.
theFLINTSTONERS
Member
ahhhh green manures . . .
in our manure manual . . . we wrote an entire section on green manures . . . hopefully it will make a nice addition here . . .
Green Manures
A Green Manure is a crop grown for the purpose of supplying the soil with nutrients and organic matter. It is called a “cover crop” when the green manure is grown for the added purpose of reducing soil erosion. Green manures are usually legumes or grasses, and they are grown with the simple intent that they will be turned back under the soil. Cover crops and green manures are certainly cost effective for large-scale farmers, but many backyard gardeners have no idea how simple and effective they are to use. And, as we mentioned earlier, they do offer a “manure” option for growers who choose vegan organics.
Green manures improve soil in a variety of ways. Green manures add significant amount of organic matter into the soil. Like animal manures, the decomposing of green manures works to enhance biological activity in the soil. Green manures can also diminish the frequency of common weeds, and when used in a crop rotation, they can help to reduce disease and pests. When turned under, the rotting vegetation supports beneficial bacterial populations. As those decomposers do their work, nutrients stored by the cover crop are returned to the soil.
Alfalfa roots regularly grow to depths of five feet or more, soybeans and clover can reach almost as deep. Since their roots go deeper than folk would commonly cultivate with a rototiller or plow, a green manure crop can bring subsoil minerals up to where even shallow rooted plants can reach them. Green manures also help to improve overall soil structure, because those deep reaching roots leave behind minute channels deep into the soil. When these deep roots decay, they provide organic matter that promotes long-term soil building.
Except for buckwheat (a member of the rhubarb family) and rapeseed (related to the cabbages), all commonly used green manures are either legumes or grasses. Rye and oats are two good examples of grass family members that are commonly used as green manures. When we think of legumes, beans and peas are the “classics” which come to mind, but the legume family also includes relatives such as clover and alfalfa. Members of the legume family can be particularly valuable as green manures, due to their ability to “fix” nitrogen from the atmosphere.
In the legume family, a very specific type of bacteria works in league with plant roots. These microorganisms, called nitrogen fixing bacteria, form nodules on the plant roots where they work in a form of partnership with their host. Functioning in concert with the plant roots, nitrogen fixing bacteria transform atmospheric nitrogen (which plants otherwise can’t use), into ammonia, which plant roots can easily absorb.
If one of these plants is uprooted, the small nodules become visible as white or pinkish bumps the size of a large pinhead. The more nodules visible the better, since more nodules equals more nitrogen fixed. To assure that enough of these bacteria are present, commercially sold legume seeds are often treated with a bacterial innoculant. Make sure to get the appropriate innoculant for your specific legume crop if it’s necessary to inoculate your own soil or legume seed stock.
Each kind of legume requires a specific species of bacteria for effective nitrogen fixation, and each innoculant works for only a few species. It’s usually possible to buy an innoculant mix designed for all peas, snap or dry beans, as well as lima beans. Soybeans will require their own specific innoculant. A totally different innoculant will be needed to serve the needs of the vetches (as well as fava beans.) Still another nitrogen fixing bacteria will work with all the true clovers, but sweet clovers will require yet another innoculant.
With careful stewardship, a legume cover crop can enrich the soil with enough nitrogen to supply most of the following years crop nitrogen needs. Commonly used legumes for cover crops include: alfalfa; fava, mung and soy beans; a whole variety of clovers; cowpeas and field peas; common or hairy vetch; the lupines; and finally our favorite name among the legume cover crops - Birdsfoot trefoil.
Although the grasses and other non-legumes do not have the ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, they still provide all the other benefits of green manures. Other non-legume crops grown for green manure include; barley, bromegrass, buckwheat, millet, oats, rapeseed, winter rye, ryegrass, grain sorghum, and wheat.
Seed for cover crop and green manures doesn’t need to come from fancy little packets at the garden center. Purchase grass and legume seeds by the pound, if you can, to save money. Farm and agricultural supply centers, what we call “feed & seed” stores, usually offer the most economical source. If your garden area is small, a single pound of seed may go a long way. With the smaller seeds, a pound could be expected to last through a couple of plantings. The larger seeds of legumes, like beans and peas, don’t store as well, so it’s advised to purchase them fresh annually.
The use of green manures and cover crops is relatively simple, the primary necessity being the time to grow the plants. Some preplanning is always helpful to make sure the correct crop is selected to best meet the grower’s needs. So, for example, if enriching soil nitrogen levels is a goal, then it’s best to choose a cover crop from the legume family due to their ability to fix nitrogen.
Some green manure plantings tolerate poor soil quality better than others, so some cover crops may be chosen because they tolerate particularly acidic (or alkaline) conditions. If a grower needs to break up hardpan soil and improve drainage, some cover crops grow very strong and deep roots. Such conditions call for green manures like alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil that can thrust their roots through anything but the most dreadfully compressed soils.
As stated earlier, deep-rooted plants can also bring up essential nutrients from the subsoil. And, some do even more; they actually accumulate nutrients, concentrating them. Growing these green manures can produce a measurable (although not huge) increase in soil nutrients. Some legumes, especially red clover, can help to increase phosphorus levels. Buckwheat also increases phosphorus, as well as helping to supplement calcium. Vetches are also accumulator plants, working to increase levels of both calcium and sulfur.
Buckwheat and Rye are examples of crops often grown as green manures that also function to control weeds. Winter Rye is actually a natural herbicide; it produces chemicals that are toxic to many weed seedlings. Buckwheat works by outgrowing its weedy competitors. The large leaves of buckwheat effectively shade out many common annual weeds.
It’s also necessary to consider the seasonal needs of your garden when planning a green manure planting. Some green manures are early season crops, while others do better when planted during the heat of summer. Winter rye and winter wheat are usually planted in the late summer or fall and then turned under in the following spring.
Another key to getting the most from a green manure planting is to turn them under at the proper time. Winter cover crops of rye and wheat, for instance, should be turned under as soon as the spring soil is dry enough to work. It’s best when turning under a winter wheat to allow at least two weeks for the green manure to “work” in the soil before beginning any spring planting.
In order to assure good germination rates, it’s necessary to wait even longer for winter rye manures to be ready for replanting. A three to four week wait is suggested after turning under a winter rye crop before sowing seeds of another crop. This is due to the same herbicidal quality that makes winter rye effective in the control of weeds. In general with most grass cover crops, the best timing is to turn them under before they form mature seed.
Turning under legumes at any time will enhance the organic matter in soil and promote an active population of beneficial soil bacteria. But, to get the full benefit of a legume plantings ability to fix nitrogen, they should be allowed to grow a full season. Perennials like alfalfa, red clover, and birdsfoot trefoil can produce additional soil enriching nitrogen if allowed to grow for a second season. If allowed those two years of growth, they can be mowed multiple times, providing a high quality source of compost or material for mulching. An alfalfa cover planting can serve as a gardener’s own sure source of fresh materials for the manufacture of alfalfa teas.
in our manure manual . . . we wrote an entire section on green manures . . . hopefully it will make a nice addition here . . .
Green Manures
A Green Manure is a crop grown for the purpose of supplying the soil with nutrients and organic matter. It is called a “cover crop” when the green manure is grown for the added purpose of reducing soil erosion. Green manures are usually legumes or grasses, and they are grown with the simple intent that they will be turned back under the soil. Cover crops and green manures are certainly cost effective for large-scale farmers, but many backyard gardeners have no idea how simple and effective they are to use. And, as we mentioned earlier, they do offer a “manure” option for growers who choose vegan organics.
Green manures improve soil in a variety of ways. Green manures add significant amount of organic matter into the soil. Like animal manures, the decomposing of green manures works to enhance biological activity in the soil. Green manures can also diminish the frequency of common weeds, and when used in a crop rotation, they can help to reduce disease and pests. When turned under, the rotting vegetation supports beneficial bacterial populations. As those decomposers do their work, nutrients stored by the cover crop are returned to the soil.
Alfalfa roots regularly grow to depths of five feet or more, soybeans and clover can reach almost as deep. Since their roots go deeper than folk would commonly cultivate with a rototiller or plow, a green manure crop can bring subsoil minerals up to where even shallow rooted plants can reach them. Green manures also help to improve overall soil structure, because those deep reaching roots leave behind minute channels deep into the soil. When these deep roots decay, they provide organic matter that promotes long-term soil building.
Except for buckwheat (a member of the rhubarb family) and rapeseed (related to the cabbages), all commonly used green manures are either legumes or grasses. Rye and oats are two good examples of grass family members that are commonly used as green manures. When we think of legumes, beans and peas are the “classics” which come to mind, but the legume family also includes relatives such as clover and alfalfa. Members of the legume family can be particularly valuable as green manures, due to their ability to “fix” nitrogen from the atmosphere.
In the legume family, a very specific type of bacteria works in league with plant roots. These microorganisms, called nitrogen fixing bacteria, form nodules on the plant roots where they work in a form of partnership with their host. Functioning in concert with the plant roots, nitrogen fixing bacteria transform atmospheric nitrogen (which plants otherwise can’t use), into ammonia, which plant roots can easily absorb.
If one of these plants is uprooted, the small nodules become visible as white or pinkish bumps the size of a large pinhead. The more nodules visible the better, since more nodules equals more nitrogen fixed. To assure that enough of these bacteria are present, commercially sold legume seeds are often treated with a bacterial innoculant. Make sure to get the appropriate innoculant for your specific legume crop if it’s necessary to inoculate your own soil or legume seed stock.
Each kind of legume requires a specific species of bacteria for effective nitrogen fixation, and each innoculant works for only a few species. It’s usually possible to buy an innoculant mix designed for all peas, snap or dry beans, as well as lima beans. Soybeans will require their own specific innoculant. A totally different innoculant will be needed to serve the needs of the vetches (as well as fava beans.) Still another nitrogen fixing bacteria will work with all the true clovers, but sweet clovers will require yet another innoculant.
With careful stewardship, a legume cover crop can enrich the soil with enough nitrogen to supply most of the following years crop nitrogen needs. Commonly used legumes for cover crops include: alfalfa; fava, mung and soy beans; a whole variety of clovers; cowpeas and field peas; common or hairy vetch; the lupines; and finally our favorite name among the legume cover crops - Birdsfoot trefoil.
Although the grasses and other non-legumes do not have the ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, they still provide all the other benefits of green manures. Other non-legume crops grown for green manure include; barley, bromegrass, buckwheat, millet, oats, rapeseed, winter rye, ryegrass, grain sorghum, and wheat.
Seed for cover crop and green manures doesn’t need to come from fancy little packets at the garden center. Purchase grass and legume seeds by the pound, if you can, to save money. Farm and agricultural supply centers, what we call “feed & seed” stores, usually offer the most economical source. If your garden area is small, a single pound of seed may go a long way. With the smaller seeds, a pound could be expected to last through a couple of plantings. The larger seeds of legumes, like beans and peas, don’t store as well, so it’s advised to purchase them fresh annually.
The use of green manures and cover crops is relatively simple, the primary necessity being the time to grow the plants. Some preplanning is always helpful to make sure the correct crop is selected to best meet the grower’s needs. So, for example, if enriching soil nitrogen levels is a goal, then it’s best to choose a cover crop from the legume family due to their ability to fix nitrogen.
Some green manure plantings tolerate poor soil quality better than others, so some cover crops may be chosen because they tolerate particularly acidic (or alkaline) conditions. If a grower needs to break up hardpan soil and improve drainage, some cover crops grow very strong and deep roots. Such conditions call for green manures like alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil that can thrust their roots through anything but the most dreadfully compressed soils.
As stated earlier, deep-rooted plants can also bring up essential nutrients from the subsoil. And, some do even more; they actually accumulate nutrients, concentrating them. Growing these green manures can produce a measurable (although not huge) increase in soil nutrients. Some legumes, especially red clover, can help to increase phosphorus levels. Buckwheat also increases phosphorus, as well as helping to supplement calcium. Vetches are also accumulator plants, working to increase levels of both calcium and sulfur.
Buckwheat and Rye are examples of crops often grown as green manures that also function to control weeds. Winter Rye is actually a natural herbicide; it produces chemicals that are toxic to many weed seedlings. Buckwheat works by outgrowing its weedy competitors. The large leaves of buckwheat effectively shade out many common annual weeds.
It’s also necessary to consider the seasonal needs of your garden when planning a green manure planting. Some green manures are early season crops, while others do better when planted during the heat of summer. Winter rye and winter wheat are usually planted in the late summer or fall and then turned under in the following spring.
Another key to getting the most from a green manure planting is to turn them under at the proper time. Winter cover crops of rye and wheat, for instance, should be turned under as soon as the spring soil is dry enough to work. It’s best when turning under a winter wheat to allow at least two weeks for the green manure to “work” in the soil before beginning any spring planting.
In order to assure good germination rates, it’s necessary to wait even longer for winter rye manures to be ready for replanting. A three to four week wait is suggested after turning under a winter rye crop before sowing seeds of another crop. This is due to the same herbicidal quality that makes winter rye effective in the control of weeds. In general with most grass cover crops, the best timing is to turn them under before they form mature seed.
Turning under legumes at any time will enhance the organic matter in soil and promote an active population of beneficial soil bacteria. But, to get the full benefit of a legume plantings ability to fix nitrogen, they should be allowed to grow a full season. Perennials like alfalfa, red clover, and birdsfoot trefoil can produce additional soil enriching nitrogen if allowed to grow for a second season. If allowed those two years of growth, they can be mowed multiple times, providing a high quality source of compost or material for mulching. An alfalfa cover planting can serve as a gardener’s own sure source of fresh materials for the manufacture of alfalfa teas.
J
JackTheGrower
theFLINTSTONERS said:
Sure it does.
People I just cannot go through with adding any nitrogen at this time.
The Bioactivity is back up in the upper layer of the soil after I watered again.
I seriously underestimated the amount of greens and browns in my soil left over from rejuvenating the soil this last time.
The temps are about 95 F and well I just have to wait it out and see how much survives.
I am almost thinking that I should turn what has grown already under and work the 47 cubic feet of soil into a proper hot pile and finish the job.
Suggestions?
J
JackTheGrower
Today is Thursday August 30th 2007
it has been 11 days and well I'm happy and sad all at the same time.
I've decided to turn under what has grown so far and maybe plant again once the bio activity allows the temperatures to be reasonable.
I'm actually making this post as I do the work so I will try to keep the post focused and orderly.
Looking things over It was the dead zones that really bothered me.
The green manure crop was dieing instead of growing for the most part..
With temperatures reaching 100 F I figured that the roots were not going to do well and it showed.
.
It's a mixed result as an experiment but still a success.
I will move on to the next phase of turning it under.
With the temperatures still reading 95 F I'm breaking the growth up by hand and mixing. I don't know about you but I love fresh organic soil in my hands.
With just the first little bit of digging I see a dramatic result of biodecomposition.
The soil has that rich brown earth look.
Lesson learned; be sure the soil is ready for plants from the start.
I had materials of green and browns that the microherd wen wild over because I hadn't kept my soil moist enough to finish the job of recycling or as i call it rejuvenating the soil.
.
At this point a goodly turn and adding fresh air is the thing I believe.
I will update the progress as it gets there. I still have half of my field to plow under and mix by hand and I'm loving it.
The problem with the growth was the root zone was getting dry while the soil below was too wet and tool hot.
That meant anaerobic bacteria was getting a foot hold. I could smell it and the green manure crop wasn't growing well.
Well dear reader it is not a failure if we all learn things and I have.
JTG
it has been 11 days and well I'm happy and sad all at the same time.
I've decided to turn under what has grown so far and maybe plant again once the bio activity allows the temperatures to be reasonable.
I'm actually making this post as I do the work so I will try to keep the post focused and orderly.
Looking things over It was the dead zones that really bothered me.
The green manure crop was dieing instead of growing for the most part..
With temperatures reaching 100 F I figured that the roots were not going to do well and it showed.
.
It's a mixed result as an experiment but still a success.
I will move on to the next phase of turning it under.
With the temperatures still reading 95 F I'm breaking the growth up by hand and mixing. I don't know about you but I love fresh organic soil in my hands.
With just the first little bit of digging I see a dramatic result of biodecomposition.
The soil has that rich brown earth look.
Lesson learned; be sure the soil is ready for plants from the start.
I had materials of green and browns that the microherd wen wild over because I hadn't kept my soil moist enough to finish the job of recycling or as i call it rejuvenating the soil.
.
At this point a goodly turn and adding fresh air is the thing I believe.
I will update the progress as it gets there. I still have half of my field to plow under and mix by hand and I'm loving it.
The problem with the growth was the root zone was getting dry while the soil below was too wet and tool hot.
That meant anaerobic bacteria was getting a foot hold. I could smell it and the green manure crop wasn't growing well.
Well dear reader it is not a failure if we all learn things and I have.
JTG
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J
JackTheGrower
Today is Friday August 31 2007
I have broken up the green and mixed it into the soil and made a pile.
Bioactivity is back up with the fresh green.
On the Photography side have a look at the picture of the temperature.
Do you see the Camera?
Well my friends that is all it's about for now.
I admit I'm taken by suprise in the amount of Bioactivity I have going and I will tend my soil till it's finished.
I have broken up the green and mixed it into the soil and made a pile.
Bioactivity is back up with the fresh green.
On the Photography side have a look at the picture of the temperature.
Do you see the Camera?
Well my friends that is all it's about for now.
I admit I'm taken by suprise in the amount of Bioactivity I have going and I will tend my soil till it's finished.
J
JackTheGrower
It's now September 8th.
Here is what my soil looks like today
I'm debating planting alfalfa for a second green manure crop.
I'll be deciding soon.
Here is what my soil looks like today
I'm debating planting alfalfa for a second green manure crop.
I'll be deciding soon.
J
JackTheGrower
Guess what?
You didn't have to wait long.
It was really fun this last time and I believe the bioactivity is done so I'm thinking the second try will do better.
I went to a healthfood store and bought alfalfa seed. I assume they are organic. I would hope so.
I screened compost through an 1/8th inch mesh to get a bulk that I could add seads to for spreading and I had some perlite I added to help me see where I scattered.
Then I mixed this new layer with the alfalfa seeds into the soil a little.
Then I watered.
It is now 4:45 pm on September 8th.
Lets see how alfalfa does.
You didn't have to wait long.
It was really fun this last time and I believe the bioactivity is done so I'm thinking the second try will do better.
I went to a healthfood store and bought alfalfa seed. I assume they are organic. I would hope so.
I screened compost through an 1/8th inch mesh to get a bulk that I could add seads to for spreading and I had some perlite I added to help me see where I scattered.
Then I mixed this new layer with the alfalfa seeds into the soil a little.
Then I watered.
It is now 4:45 pm on September 8th.
Lets see how alfalfa does.
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G
Guest
The alfalfa will fix the N in the soil. Plus you can take some for tea. I'm not sure how long need to go to fix the N. But I would let them go some before turning them under. This is a nice experiment you got going, Jack. Also love that sig line...how's the Jill hunt going? lol
J
JackTheGrower
Old Fool said:
Thank you for the support for my effort in this thread.
That Jill hunt is not on ATM cuz there is a she wearing a promise ring of mine.
Time to change the Sig...
We will see... We are the "best of friends kind of couple." Not that we are just friends mind ya...
Thanks for asking.
As for how long lets see. If these sprouts can get down into the soil I'm expecting to see some growth.
The last try had really hot soil under them so it was a bust.. Soil temps are looking relative to ambient temps now.
Again thanks for the reply.. Nice to read.
JTG
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