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The facts about CO2 ppm: don't use 1,500!

organicness

New member
Sorry for bringing up an older thread, but I'm trying to figure out what the symptoms are for CO2 toxicity. Ive tried searching around google and here and the best I can find is chlorosis and "zebra striping" references. Does anyone happen to have any pictures or other chatter about what symptoms of CO2 toxicity would look like? I'm curious if that's what my problem is. I'm getting wicked chlorosis that looks like an iron toxicity but my iron, manganese and magnesium PPM's are right where they should be, environment is pretty spot on with temps & humidity, and the CO2 is the only suspect as it's the newest player to the game in my room and I just have to wonder if that's what's causing the issue. I just turned it off tonight to see if things clear up over the next week or so, but was wondering if anyone had pics of what this would look like.

Thanks
 

inspectordabbit

New member
OP: All of your cited studies are done on wheat and/or rice and none of them show the temperature dependence of the optimal CO2 concentration, which gives me two reasons not to give them much credence when growing marijuana.

Given the fact that the growers here are interested in marijuana, I'd take these results to be worth a grain of salt (or should it be a grain or rice in this case?). The optimal concentration for marijuana is 1500 ppm (and the grow temperature should be adjusted upward, accordingly).

Simply by looking at the plant mass to surface area ratio in wheat and/or rice versus marijuana tells me that it is not the model system to use in making accurate predictions about the optimal atmospheric CO2 concentration for maximizing crop yield.

Cannabis is C3 plant. It uses the CO2 it gathers during the day (light time) to photosynthesize.

Rice and Wheat are also C3 Plants. Thus, using the plethora of study data from those plants (and others like them) is an excellent place to start when addressing this question, considering the utter lack of honest-to-goodness scientific studies done with Cannabis itself.

By showing up and throwing out some number that you have provided no references for, doesn't make you any more knowledgeable that the people that you're obviously echoing.

If you have a reference, please post it. Otherwise, you're just talking shit.
 

jamminman

Member
Thanks to Spurr we all now have another good adjustable CO2 controller option.

The "hack" is simple, just jumper settings, but the instructions provided by support are incorrect. I sent a revision back to them so hopefully this error has been fixed for the next person who asks.

So, the correct jumper settings are;
J1-disconnect;J2-disconnect CO2≤700ppm,the relay turns on, CO2 ≥900ppm,the relay turns off

J1-disconnect; J2-connect CO2≤900ppm, the relay turns on;CO2 ≥1100ppm,the relay turns off

J1-connect; J2-disconnect CO2≤1100ppm, the relay turns on;CO2≥ 1300ppm,the relay turns off

J1-connect; J2-connect CO2≤1300ppm, the relay turns on;CO2 ≥1500ppm,the relay turns off

Factory jumper settings
View Image

Jumpers modified for 900 to 1100ppm CO2(J1 is parked, could be completely removed if one could keep from losing it.)
View Image

If you are sent the instructions stating J4 and J5, do not use the header on the daughter board. The instructions above are correct. Daughterboard header 9 and 10 shorted for 10 seconds will reset the calibration of the CO2 module, although you probably shouldn't be messing with it. Do it outside and don't breathe on it if you do.

Your warranty was voided by just thinking about doing this ;)

Beauty !!!!!!! :tiphat:
 

jamminman

Member
OP: All of your cited studies are done on wheat and/or rice and none of them show the temperature dependence of the optimal CO2 concentration, which gives me two reasons not to give them much credence when growing marijuana.

I tend tword this train of thought. Cannabis is unique in manny respects, even absorbs radiation differently.

Given the fact that the growers here are interested in marijuana, I'd take these results to be worth a grain of salt (or should it be a grain or rice in this case?). The optimal concentration for marijuana is 1500 ppm (and the grow temperature should be adjusted upward, accordingly).

Simply by looking at the plant mass to surface area ratio in wheat and/or rice versus marijuana tells me that it is not the model system to use in making accurate predictions about the optimal atmospheric CO2 concentration for maximizing crop yield.

I don't see a place for dogmatism here. Proof is in the pudding so to speak. Iff ther is no difference between 1500 and 900 in outcome, the savings is huge and to me equal to more weight.
As far as "industry standards" go, I guess WE are making and efecting them right here.:biggrin:
 

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
thanks for all they great info.

I have a question about the day night co2 levels. I run 2 sealed rooms on a flip flop that are constantly exchanging air with eachother. I do this for cooling purposes, each side has a minisplit that the lights off room helps cool the lights on room. Plants are currently getting co2 24/7 at 1500 ppms. Has been working great for me so far. But if I can make the plants happier, im all ears.

With my setup what would you suggest I set my co2 at to balance out the good/bad? If you could choose only 1 ppm setting for day/night what would it be?


Thanks

My god thank you for asking this I have wondered this same thing for years.

T~P
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
I gotta bump this for you spurr! You will always live on from your informative posts. I hope that life is treating you well!
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
Well after reading this thread I am very tempted to go and cut a hole for an exhaust fan in my flower room.

CO2 levels do not drop at all during the night in my room, as a matter of fact they climb to >1500 during the night.

I've been fighting a mystery environmental condition and think this may be my answer.

A damper and a fan/filter to dump my room of CO2 at lights off. Could it be that simple?
 
It is a TOU violation to discuss banned members.

It should be a violation to ban arguably the most resourceful and helpful user that was ever on this site. That's why I asked.

I always wondered this subject myself considering that extremely high levels of CO2 can kill plants and even some insects. Unfortunately I have a CO2 monitor that only allows 1500ppm and nothing less. I'm curious to buy another to try this out and see if there are differences though.
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
It should be a violation to ban arguably the most resourceful and helpful user that was ever on this site. That's why I asked.

I always wondered this subject myself considering that extremely high levels of CO2 can kill plants and even some insects. Unfortunately I have a CO2 monitor that only allows 1500ppm and nothing less. I'm curious to buy another to try this out and see if there are differences though.

Curious if you read the whole thread and if your monitor is one of the ones that can be modified.
 
Curious if you read the whole thread and if your monitor is one of the ones that can be modified.

I did read through the thread. Unfortunately, I don't think it's possible to adjust my controller to a steady rate of 1000ppm. Here is a pic of the model. As you can see, even the 950-1450 option wouldn't be very useful.

PPM-4-600.jpg
 
D

DHF

Well after reading this thread I am very tempted to go and cut a hole for an exhaust fan in my flower room.

CO2 levels do not drop at all during the night in my room, as a matter of fact they climb to >1500 during the night.

I've been fighting a mystery environmental condition and think this may be my answer.

A damper and a fan/filter to dump my room of CO2 at lights off. Could it be that simple?
Hey TC.....Way back when Krusty ran big plants and "so-called" sealed rooms with CO2 supplements and tanks on controllers , I`m not sure he ever told the truth about his "lights off" major CO2 and elevated RH levels exhaust every lights off sequence , but trust me.....

Plants eat CO2 and shit O2 during lights on , and then during lights off they shit out excess RH and CO2 that wasn`t assimilated if the setup`s dialed , and that`s why yours and EVERYONE`S CO2 and RH levels spike once lights cut off.....

Spurr and I`ve butted heads on a couple occasions about science based studies compared to actual grower first hand witnessed experience over the yrs , but granted he`s intelligent , and.....

The first time I learned why my setups in Hell with crazy ass RH rocked and yielded accordingly , it was Spurr that taught me about "VPD/vapor pressure deficit" at another site , but TC......

I ran air exchange twice per minute for yrs and yrs , and had "atmospheric" CO2 ppms in the 750-900 range 24/7 due to growing in a smog ridden metro area of interstate traffic and manufacturing plants in the deep south......so....

Everyone has options to either provide as much airflow through the bloom rooms with ambient CO2 levels in the air we breathe , or use elevated supplements and raise ambient temps to increase plant metabolism and transpiration for the benefits if and when dialed with tanks , controllers , or generators...

Peace....DHF....:ying:.....
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
...

Plants eat CO2 and shit O2 during lights on , and then during lights off they shit out excess RH and CO2 that wasn`t assimilated if the setup`s dialed , and that`s why yours and EVERYONE`S CO2 and RH levels spike once lights cut off.....

I'll be doing sealed rm w/Co2 this fall and have been reading about this Co2 spike after lites out.
if the plants store that much Co2 gas thats not utilized and then dump it, seems like you could shut off the Co2 emitters, say?
30 minuts-->1 hour-->2 maybe before lites out.

plants then use up the Co2 stored in their systems for the last few hrs or what ever X-amount of time with out the Co2 running actively in the room.
if that happens, and it sounds reasonable it would,
you could dial in the amount of time to shut down the Co2
and maybe get close to very minimal Co2 build up at nite if any


it would cure lots of probs with having more fans filters and gizmo's to get gas out of the room at nite and ease the probs of Rh spiking at nite...
AND
save on Co2 usage.

Ive been reading threads on co2 the last few months and ive not seen this mentioned anywhere?
the more i think of it the more i can't see why it won't work.
of course sometimes i have blinders on the brain storming ideas and can't see an obvious con opposing a pro :shucks:
 
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Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
That might work gnome but I'm not sure.

I turned my tank off for 3 days and lights on co2 levels were still over 1000 ppm at lights on. My room is sealed tight as can be though.

On week 6 with a 20 pound tank.

I haven't cut up my room yet and I'm not so sure I will. Waiting to eliminate all other options but I'm currently back to gassing, nighttime levels are over 1000 and plants are happy.

Some Adawgs.

picture.php


An OG

picture.php



In my case I think between turning down my lights to 600 watts when plants go in and keeping them farther from the bulb along with more calmag is the answer I was looking for.

They just couldn't handle going from 600's in veg to 1150 with gas. Now I kind of acclimate them slowly to the lights and they seem to do alright. I'll know for sure in another couple weeks. If these new girls stay healthy then I'm good to go, if not I got two dampers and two Vortex's ready to go.

Here's the newbies.

picture.php
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
That might work gnome but I'm not sure.

I turned my tank off for 3 days and lights on co2 levels were still over 1000 ppm at lights on. My room is sealed tight as can be though.


no Co2 for 3 days and still hitting 1000+ppm at nite
and the room is sealed up tite eh:chin:

So why run the tank daily if that's where your numbers are?


those A dawgs are a looking mean TC
bet your loving the new dis :smoke:
 
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