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The difference between HUMIC and FULVIC Acids...

Nico Farmer

Authentic Strains Farm
These piles are turned with a loader many times before using. They can be close to 15 feet high before breaking down. After 2 years they are tilled into my plots. Once the chips are worked in, the soil is good to go. No nitrogen depletion, just good organics being broken down. These chips provide the means for humic and fulfic acids to be produced. These soils were not good to begin with, mainly reclaimed coal mine
operations. After many years of wood chips they are now highly productive. Good, healthy plant growth doesn't happen overnight with organic inputs. Once you get your soils right, you will never go back to man made amendments. The crop I grow is an edible, no different needs than cannibis. These chips often go into my container mixes for weed. Once broken down the mycorrhizal fungi is a beautiful sight. Humus is the giddy- up and go for soils.
I'm doing the same thing with on a smaller scale for my vegetable garden.
I use dead leaves that fall in autumn (oaks, chestnuts, birches). I crumble them with a lawnmower and make piles or beds, moisten them if necessary. I mix them every 2 months with a shovel or a pitchfork. If the pile is less than 4 feet I cover it with a tarp in summer. After 2 years soil is great.
Bigger pile, longer process.
I just add a few amendments, fulvic and hulmic.
 
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Three Berries

Active member
I grow a niche crop on remote property I own. I have no problem sourcing manure but need more for the size plots I grow on. Manure only goes so far on eighth to quarter acre patches. What I can get in quantity are arborist wood chips from deciduous trees. The same 2 small scale tree companies have been dropping on me for many years. Late spring into early fall when trees are in full leaf are all I take. These piles are turned with a loader many times before using. They can be close to 15 feet high before breaking down. After 2 years they are tilled into my plots. My crop is rotated and cover cropped. Once the chips are worked in, the soil is good to go. No nitrogen depletion, just good organics being broken down. These chips provide the means for humic and fulfic acids to be produced. These soils were not good to begin with, mainly reclaimed coal mine
operations. After many years of wood chips they are now highly productive. Good, healthy plant growth doesn't happen overnight with organic inputs. Once you get your soils right, you will never go back to man made amendments. The crop I grow is an edible, no different needs than cannibis. These chips often go into my container mixes for weed. Once broken down the mycorrhizal fungi is a beautiful sight. Humus is the giddy- up and go for soils. Sorry for the long winded comment, just get excited talking about building soils.

Hey Van, love you're recent threads. Just wondering if they can somehow be consolidated for easy reference. I have zero organizational skills. Maybe the mods can help, just a thought. Thanks again.
I use to go out and find rotten trees, scoop out the broke down innards to use as a soil fortifier. Have been using wood chips around the shrubs for 10 years now. Interesting stuff that just turns into dirt and root mass. I fortify the green chips with some crabgrass preventer high nitrogen fertilizer. This stops the trees seeds from sprouting. The electric company does trimming every year and they are happy to get rid of it. It's all green wood and will develop many different fungi if allowed to sit in a pile and get wet.
 

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