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Cheers Mota. It's 575mm wide and 555mm deep. That's about 22.5" x 22", and from the top of the sliding floor to the bottom of the bulbs is 2ft exactly. I bought the cupboard from a junk store and it was already recycled out of old furniture, but made well. I think it cost $20 aud.
I think the main benefits of this cab are the lights - they're just so flat and powerful for a fluoro anyway, and I get the buds almost touching. Also the sliding tray is a must - really helps with access. And having a fairly large surface area of carbon means I can get away with one pc fan as exhaust most of the year. It tends to run +2º f over ambient, measured at the top of cab out of direct light.
I think the main benefits of this cab are the lights - they're just so flat and powerful for a fluoro anyway, and I get the buds almost touching. Also the sliding tray is a must - really helps with access. And having a fairly large surface area of carbon means I can get away with one pc fan as exhaust most of the year. It tends to run +2º f over ambient, measured at the top of cab out of direct light.
Wow, I would have never imagined that high a yield. I really like the box, especially the way the lamps are installed and optimized. The roll-out shelf is very slick, as well.
Simon
Hot as hell in here...
Hot as hell in here...
Hey guys, having some heat problems and was wondering if anyone had any advice. I've read the Red Greenery thread on ventilation. It's a good read, lots of info. I could use some suggestions though.
Well I half ass assembled everything to try it out. Fans supposed to be 250cfm and I run it full throttle as the noise isn't an issue really. Thats it mounted on the upper right of the picture.
Same setup you've seen many times before. Intake on the left rear for the heat from the 400w hps, outtake on the top.
Mounted to bottom of the fan, top of the cab is an ABS Y joint. The plan was to attach the scrubber when needed to the open part of the Y joint. It would be fed through the three large passive intakes infront of the SWC bin.
Temps are 90 degrees ffs. Any ideas are muchly appreciated.
5th
Hot as hell in here...
Hey guys, having some heat problems and was wondering if anyone had any advice. I've read the Red Greenery thread on ventilation. It's a good read, lots of info. I could use some suggestions though.
Well I half ass assembled everything to try it out. Fans supposed to be 250cfm and I run it full throttle as the noise isn't an issue really. Thats it mounted on the upper right of the picture.
Same setup you've seen many times before. Intake on the left rear for the heat from the 400w hps, outtake on the top.
Mounted to bottom of the fan, top of the cab is an ABS Y joint. The plan was to attach the scrubber when needed to the open part of the Y joint. It would be fed through the three large passive intakes infront of the SWC bin.
Temps are 90 degrees ffs. Any ideas are muchly appreciated.
5th
M
m00nchild
I might be missing it, but where is the intake for the cabinet's ventilation? I'm assuming you have separate ventilation for the cab, since the only ducting I see is connected to a cool tube. So therefore, the light seems to be air-cooled, but now what about the actual airflow within the growing space itself? I mean, I hope I'm not presuming anything here, and please don't take it the wrong way if I am, but when you air-cool like you are there, by pulling fresh air from outside the cab, cooling the HPS bulb, and then exhausting that hot air back outside the cab... you still have to have an intake and exhaust hole for the cabinet itself. It can probably even be passive, without any fans, as long as you design things so that convection takes care of the heat for you.
But if it were me, I would probably just use a simple 120mm computer fan as the exhaust, with a passive intake.
*edit: I think I understand now, with the use of your Y adapter, that you might be trying to incorporate the cabinet's ventilation into the "enclosed" cool tube setup. I don't know how that would work, so I might not be able to help you with that... but if it were me, I would just keep the cool tube setup the way you have it now, remove that y adapter, create separate intake and exhaust holes for the cabinet's airflow (as opposed to the cool tube's airflow), and hook your scrubber up to the cabinet's exhaust. Obviously, the cool tube wouldn't need a scrubber since the air is enclosed and separate from the stinky garden air.
But I admit, I am far from being an HVAC or ventilation master, so I am probably not understanding your setup properly. I'm a simpleton... a "less is more" kind of guy, and I just go for simple, traditional airflow designs.
Great looking cabinet though!
But if it were me, I would probably just use a simple 120mm computer fan as the exhaust, with a passive intake.
*edit: I think I understand now, with the use of your Y adapter, that you might be trying to incorporate the cabinet's ventilation into the "enclosed" cool tube setup. I don't know how that would work, so I might not be able to help you with that... but if it were me, I would just keep the cool tube setup the way you have it now, remove that y adapter, create separate intake and exhaust holes for the cabinet's airflow (as opposed to the cool tube's airflow), and hook your scrubber up to the cabinet's exhaust. Obviously, the cool tube wouldn't need a scrubber since the air is enclosed and separate from the stinky garden air.
But I admit, I am far from being an HVAC or ventilation master, so I am probably not understanding your setup properly. I'm a simpleton... a "less is more" kind of guy, and I just go for simple, traditional airflow designs.
Great looking cabinet though!
Speaking of intake, slap a filter on that sucker and see what a month of operation does to whip up any dust floating around. This is a used dryer sheet.
IMO, locating intake(s) on the lower wall stirs up dust less than intakes in the floor. Especially if the cab is on a hard floor as opposed to carpet.
IMO, locating intake(s) on the lower wall stirs up dust less than intakes in the floor. Especially if the cab is on a hard floor as opposed to carpet.
That's a great idea Disco, I'm going to do just that.
You pretty much have my cab figured out m00n. Thanks for the comment on the box aswell. The intake for the cooltube is on the top left if your looking in at the rear of the cab. I was hoping the fan would be strong 'nuff to act as both a puller for the air and for the scrubber. Maybe I should try pushing the air? Worth a shot anyways.
So the air to cool the bulb is in an almost closed circuit so to speak. The ventilation for the box itself however is supposed to be passive intake with 3, 3 1/2 inch holes on the bottom...
...and venting into the open side of the Y pipe.
First I thought the hot air from the bulb was being dumped back into the box via the open hole in the Y pipe. So I stuck a sheet of paper up to the hole. It was held in place firmly with the suction so I doubt thats it.
Clones are ready to cut...just need to get this damn thing sorted out before finishing assembly on the box.
Any and all thoughts are welcomed and appreciated.
5th
*Edit: Was just looking to reread some things by Red Greenery, and he's gone. Hope its not permanent.
**No he's still here. I'm just a stoned idiot.
You pretty much have my cab figured out m00n. Thanks for the comment on the box aswell. The intake for the cooltube is on the top left if your looking in at the rear of the cab. I was hoping the fan would be strong 'nuff to act as both a puller for the air and for the scrubber. Maybe I should try pushing the air? Worth a shot anyways.
So the air to cool the bulb is in an almost closed circuit so to speak. The ventilation for the box itself however is supposed to be passive intake with 3, 3 1/2 inch holes on the bottom...
...and venting into the open side of the Y pipe.
First I thought the hot air from the bulb was being dumped back into the box via the open hole in the Y pipe. So I stuck a sheet of paper up to the hole. It was held in place firmly with the suction so I doubt thats it.
Clones are ready to cut...just need to get this damn thing sorted out before finishing assembly on the box.
Any and all thoughts are welcomed and appreciated.
5th
*Edit: Was just looking to reread some things by Red Greenery, and he's gone. Hope its not permanent.
**No he's still here. I'm just a stoned idiot.
M
m00nchild
I have a question: I just got my 250 from htgsupply and I see that the cord coming from the ballast to the socket is fixed, meaning I can't unplug it from there and route it through the cabinet... so my question is, what is the common way people get around this?
The easiest thing I can think of, which is probably what I'm going to do, is to cut the cord and splice in a set of male and female plugs, to act as a disconnect. But I was wondering what other people do? Do any of you actually remove the panel from the ballast and unscrew the wire caps or whatever is in there?
I don't want to fuck up anything in case there's a warranty issue. By cutting the cord I do just that. But by trying to remove wirecaps I could mess it up worse if it's a clusterfuck inside.
Cut the cord?
The easiest thing I can think of, which is probably what I'm going to do, is to cut the cord and splice in a set of male and female plugs, to act as a disconnect. But I was wondering what other people do? Do any of you actually remove the panel from the ballast and unscrew the wire caps or whatever is in there?
I don't want to fuck up anything in case there's a warranty issue. By cutting the cord I do just that. But by trying to remove wirecaps I could mess it up worse if it's a clusterfuck inside.
Cut the cord?
barth
Active member
Speaking of intake, slap a filter on that sucker and see what a month of operation does to whip up any dust floating around. This is a used dryer sheet.
IMO, locating intake(s) on the lower wall stirs up dust less than intakes in the floor. Especially if the cab is on a hard floor as opposed to carpet.
I staple cheap furnaces filters to my passive intake. I have to vacuum them to keep them from looking like the pic you posted.
I hear ya as far as the warranty. My light was a gift and it came this way.
=----[____] ----------- [--0
Thats a 120v cord going into the ballast (permanent)
15 ft of wire then another break between the wire n' socket.
I'd have fucked around for hours/days if I didn't have the wire detachable from the ballast.
I'd say cut it. Just my .02
5th
=----[____] ----------- [--0
Thats a 120v cord going into the ballast (permanent)
15 ft of wire then another break between the wire n' socket.
I'd have fucked around for hours/days if I didn't have the wire detachable from the ballast.
I'd say cut it. Just my .02
5th
You could detach the internal wiring from the ballast or the working end, whichever is easier. My ballast used wire nuts and putting it back together was easy. If your connections are soldered it'll be a little more work.
barth
Active member
This is what i was going to say. I have a cool tube from htg and it uses wire nuts also. It would be easy to remove the wire nuts to replace the socket. However the cord for the tube actually unplugs from the ballast.
M
m00nchild
I ended up just buying a pair of male/female connectors and spliced them in. It did the job just fine. I'll take some pics later.
gdbud
Member
...and venting into the open side of the Y pipe.
First I thought the hot air from the bulb was being dumped back into the box via the open hole in the Y pipe. So I stuck a sheet of paper up to the hole. It was held in place firmly with the suction so I doubt thats it.
Air is going to take the path of least resistance. Which this means for you is that all of your air flow is going through the open end of the Y and none is going through your light.
What you need to do is damper the air flow through the Y. Place a piece of cardboard that has a 2" hole in the center over the open Y and see how your heat problem is.
I figured since the out take fan was located on top of the cab pulling air out that there wasn't any resistance on that end of things. Shows what I know.
I'll try to finish my scrubber today. By sticking that in the hole it should plug it for the most part.
I gotta get something sorted...cuttings, bubbler, nutes...everythings ready to go. Just don't wanna burn 'em until after I've cured 'em.
Thanks much for the suggestion, I'll let ya know how it goes.
I'll try to finish my scrubber today. By sticking that in the hole it should plug it for the most part.
I gotta get something sorted...cuttings, bubbler, nutes...everythings ready to go. Just don't wanna burn 'em until after I've cured 'em.
Thanks much for the suggestion, I'll let ya know how it goes.
M
m00nchild
Do you guys have circulation fans inside your cabs, in addition to the regular exhaust fan? I'm having some heat issues in the veg portion of my cab, and I'm wondering if simply adding a circulation fan up there will help even things out and eliminate any heat pockets. But on the other hand, I'm wondering if circulation fans somehow mess with the convection currents? Anyone?
grouchy
Active member
I use circulation fans to keep the temps nice and even throughout the cab. Mine is a lot smaller and needs any help it can get.
This is my cab. I am running cfls in veg and a 100w cmh in the flower room. The pics are old but not much has changed except I upgraded from a 70w hps to a 100w cmh.
This is my cab. I am running cfls in veg and a 100w cmh in the flower room. The pics are old but not much has changed except I upgraded from a 70w hps to a 100w cmh.
Absolutely. In the summer, I run two - one low and one high. Rest of the year, just one.
Simon
Bengi
Member
Hey, no problem. Thats what were posting for.
At first I was going to get a 400w, but do to my building already being extremely hot i opted for a 250w. I trimmed up my reflector to have it fit proper in there.
I put my intake vent in a little to high and my light was lowered below the vent, so I wasent getting any hot air removed from the cab. I opted to put a shelf in so I could raise my light over the vent. It dropped my temp by 8c.
