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The Buzz On Biochar In Peat-Moss Based Media Mixes

Somatek

Active member
Success or failure of using biochar comes from the biochar being pHed correctly. Biochar that comes from organic material that is grown in alkaline soil, is alkaline. The same for organic material that comes from acid soil, the biochar is acidic. This is why so many folks see no or even negative response from biochar applications quite often. Both must be buffered. Some use KOH, I recommend lime to raise the pH of acidic biochar. Alkaline biochar needs to be hit with acid. Phosphoric acid is the normal go to I believe. Like most Carbon sources (magnets), they should be used as such and not as nutrient sources. This means adding your calcium and phosphorus to OM so that you can maintain availability to the plant even in times of drought by changing the base from water to humus. Thus not requiring water for uptake.
Do you have reference to back that up? I was under the impression that charcoal has an alkaline pH and can be used as a substitute for lime, a quick search consistently said that the pH of charcoal is alkaline as well. I also highly question the idea that biochar must be buffered to be effective as most field studies I've looked at didn't use buffered biochar, most ag references don't talk about it and my own experiences show that it has a beneficial effect regardless.

Biochar is not a nutrient source, I don't know where people got that idea but the studies talk about it increase nutrient availability in field applications or increasing the CEC of soil mixes used in controlled growing climates like greenhouses or indoors. The gross misunderstandings about what biochar is and what it does seem like a more likely reason why some people have had poor results using it but then again I haven't read much about pot growers experience using it so that opinion is of limited value. I'd be surprised if it's related to the pH of the biochar though as I've never seen anything suggesting there's a huge difference in the pH regardless of source; whether it's wood, manure or some other biomass waste from a farm.
 

slownickel

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Do you have reference to back that up? I was under the impression that charcoal has an alkaline pH and can be used as a substitute for lime, a quick search consistently said that the pH of charcoal is alkaline as well. I also highly question the idea that biochar must be buffered to be effective as most field studies I've looked at didn't use buffered biochar, most ag references don't talk about it and my own experiences show that it has a beneficial effect regardless.

Biochar is not a nutrient source, I don't know where people got that idea but the studies talk about it increase nutrient availability in field applications or increasing the CEC of soil mixes used in controlled growing climates like greenhouses or indoors. The gross misunderstandings about what biochar is and what it does seem like a more likely reason why some people have had poor results using it but then again I haven't read much about pot growers experience using it so that opinion is of limited value. I'd be surprised if it's related to the pH of the biochar though as I've never seen anything suggesting there's a huge difference in the pH regardless of source; whether it's wood, manure or some other biomass waste from a farm.
Ask Mr Google nicely in several different ways. What was written was my research, results and opinion. The data is out there if you look.
 

Somatek

Active member
Ask Mr Google nicely in several different ways. What was written was my research, results and opinion. The data is out there if you look.
I'll take that as a no then... As my results and opinion are directly contrary based on the research papers I've read from Cornell and the UoG about biochar. If you make a controversial statement and can't back it up then it's not worth taking seriously.
 

Rurumo

Active member
Do you have reference to back that up? I was under the impression that charcoal has an alkaline pH and can be used as a substitute for lime, a quick search consistently said that the pH of charcoal is alkaline as well. I also highly question the idea that biochar must be buffered to be effective as most field studies I've looked at didn't use buffered biochar, most ag references don't talk about it and my own experiences show that it has a beneficial effect regardless.

Biochar is not a nutrient source, I don't know where people got that idea but the studies talk about it increase nutrient availability in field applications or increasing the CEC of soil mixes used in controlled growing climates like greenhouses or indoors. The gross misunderstandings about what biochar is and what it does seem like a more likely reason why some people have had poor results using it but then again I haven't read much about pot growers experience using it so that opinion is of limited value. I'd be surprised if it's related to the pH of the biochar though as I've never seen anything suggesting there's a huge difference in the pH regardless of source; whether it's wood, manure or some other biomass waste from a farm.
Biochar tends to be highly alkaline. I always check the PH of a biochar product before I buy it because some are much more alkaline than others.
 

slownickel

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I'll take that as a no then... As my results and opinion are directly contrary based on the research papers I've read from Cornell and the UoG about biochar. If you make a controversial statement and can't back it up then it's not worth taking se
 

Somatek

Active member
Biochar tends to be highly alkaline. I always check the PH of a biochar product before I buy it because some are much more alkaline than others.
That's what I've consistently read, it's often mentioned as a substitute for lime and I've yet to see anything talking about acidic biochar, which is why I asked for something to back up what he was saying but anytime the answer is "google it, I've done my research and I know my experience validates my opinion" I assume their talking about anecdotes without anything to back their ideas up and it's not worth listening to.

Out of curiosity how are you testing the pH of the biochar, what kind of range have you seen and do you know what the pH difference is correlated to (ie combustion temperature, carbon formation, starting material, etc?). I've read on permies.com a long time ago discussions about biochar and how the combustion affects quality but haven't had a chance to compare different qualities to see how much of a difference it makes.
 

xet

Active member
My fungal-dominate organic soil automatically adjusts my pH for me.

I would not even care to know what a tester looks like.

Why should anyone have to prove anything to anyone much less unstudied people who consistently attack people well-studied on a vast array of Biology topics?

From page 1 of 294 in Organics for Beginners:
I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.

The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A "living" medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates and bacteria work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.

Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.

A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.

With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like fish, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus and bacteria will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.

So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.
 

slownickel

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That's what I've consistently read, it's often mentioned as a substitute for lime and I've yet to see anything talking about acidic biochar, which is why I asked for something to back up what he was saying but anytime the answer is "google it, I've done my research and I know my experience validates my opinion" I assume their talking about anecdotes without anything to back their ideas up and it's not worth listening to.

Out of curiosity how are you testing the pH of the biochar, what kind of range have you seen and do you know what the pH difference is correlated to (ie combustion temperature, carbon formation, starting material, etc?). I've read on permies.com a long time ago discussions about biochar and how the combustion affects quality but haven't had a chance to compare different qualities to see how much of a difference it makes.

Roles of Phosphoric Acid in Biochar Formation: Synchronously Improving Carbon Retention and Sorption Capacity​

Ling Zhao, Wei Zheng, Ondřej Mašek, Xiang Chen, Bowen Gu, Brajendra K Sharma, Xinde Cao

 

slownickel

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That's what I've consistently read, it's often mentioned as a substitute for lime and I've yet to see anything talking about acidic biochar, which is why I asked for something to back up what he was saying but anytime the answer is "google it, I've done my research and I know my experience validates my opinion" I assume their talking about anecdotes without anything to back their ideas up and it's not worth listening to.

Out of curiosity how are you testing the pH of the biochar, what kind of range have you seen and do you know what the pH difference is correlated to (ie combustion temperature, carbon formation, starting material, etc?). I've read on permies.com a long time ago discussions about biochar and how the combustion affects quality but haven't had a chance to compare different qualities to see how much of a difference it makes.

Preparation of ball-milled phosphorus-loaded biochar and its highly effective remediation for Cd- and Pb-contaminated alkaline soil​

Author links open overlay panelPengZhangabBingXueabLeJiaocXingyingMengabLianyingZhangabBeixingLidHongwenSun
 

slownickel

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Veteran
That's what I've consistently read, it's often mentioned as a substitute for lime and I've yet to see anything talking about acidic biochar, which is why I asked for something to back up what he was saying but anytime the answer is "google it, I've done my research and I know my experience validates my opinion" I assume their talking about anecdotes without anything to back their ideas up and it's not worth listening to.

Out of curiosity how are you testing the pH of the biochar, what kind of range have you seen and do you know what the pH difference is correlated to (ie combustion temperature, carbon formation, starting material, etc?). I've read on permies.com a long time ago discussions about biochar and how the combustion affects quality but haven't had a chance to compare different qualities to see how much of a difference it makes.

 

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Somatek

Active member
Success or failure of using biochar comes from the biochar being pHed correctly. Biochar that comes from organic material that is grown in alkaline soil, is alkaline. The same for organic material that comes from acid soil, the biochar is acidic.
Neither of the two links you shared support this, from the PDF you shared specifically mentions biochar having a high pH and is looking at how it affects growth in acidic vs alkaline soils. The first link is talking about improving biochars properties by pre-treating the material with phosphoric acid and the other was about soil remediation using a specific form of biochar which has a closer to neutral pH due to how it's processed before pyrolysis. None support the statement that biochar made from organic matter grown in alkaline soil has a high pH or having a low pH if made from material grown in acidic soil; they contradict it by talking about how biochar has a high pH unless the biomass is treated with phosphoric acid is specific ways which only gets it closer to neutral.
 

Somatek

Active member
Why should anyone have to prove anything to anyone much less unstudied people who consistently attack people well-studied on a vast array of Biology topics?
Slownickel made a highly controversial claim, that the pH of the soil the biomass was grown in affects the pH of the biochar, which determines the success or failure of using it. That isn't scientific and contradicts the fact that biochar is alkaline regardless of where the biomass comes from unless specifically treated which at best gets it closer to neutral but not acidic enough to affect growth. No one has to prove anything to anyone but if someone can't back up their opinion then I'm not going to take it seriously as it's just as likely wrong. If you look at the references he provided to support his opinion they don't make sense and they don't support his theory. That's the nature of public discourse, facts are more important then feelings when discussing the science of horticulture. If you disagree you're welcome to ignore my opinions, that's the beauty of the web.
 
Biochar is low grade activated carbon. It's gonna suck the terps out the roots!


Typical that potheads would use unnecessary low grade scrap products while whining about profits. Goes right along with the home made calcium products with leaky lids and zero calcium. I've tested too many snake oils to even consider one invented in the 21st century. Screw Biochar, and all the other Pokémons. Spray your perlite if you want condominium housing for microbes. If the peat moss isn't good enough..
 

pjlive

Active member
Any updates on your work with Biochar? The general consensus is that it seems to work. Amazonian Terra Prieta (Biochar) is thousands of years old though so I won't see those benefits LOL. I ran out of precharged Biochar so I will have to make some more.
Not for a while. I have to work it into an upcoming grow.

Progress so far: Biochar gets a green light to go on my next grows - I'll be incorporating fulvic acid into my deliveries for the first time - I'll be using pre-charged, horticultural grade biochar using sea based and Azospirillum species as supplementary inoculates.

Lots of reading...

That's about it for now.
 
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Somatek

Active member
Biochar is low grade activated carbon. It's gonna suck the terps out the roots!


Typical that potheads would use unnecessary low grade scrap products while whining about profits. Goes right along with the home made calcium products with leaky lids and zero calcium. I've tested too many snake oils to even consider one invented in the 21st century. Screw Biochar, and all the other Pokémons. Spray your perlite if you want condominium housing for microbes. If the peat moss isn't good enough..
You clearly don't understand how either biochar or activated carbon works, thanks for the laughs though.
 

Cerathule

Well-known member
- I'll be incorporating fulvic acid into my deliveries for the first time - I'll be using pre-charged, horticultural grade biochar using sea based and Azospirillum species as supplementary inoculates.
shouldn't the biochar have plenty of fulvics in abundancy?
 

pjlive

Active member
shouldn't the biochar have plenty of fulvics in abundancy?
Good question. There are good articles to be found in circulation on this particular subject.

I'm anticipating some issues running "perfect" synthetic solutions into a peat primary media mixed with biochar. One of the big issues is that my biochar will likely hold onto more excess salts than I would like. In fact, I expect my pot environment to change quite a bit overall and lead to a pretty radical shift in my vegetation stage fertigations, especially early on.

The addition of soluble fulvic acid (in combination to the incorporation of certain types of biochar) is a good and proven way to assist with clearing those excess salts out -- keep them moving along to waste.
 

CannaRed

Cannabinerd
I just listened to a good podcast episode about biochar.
The guest was asked what is his favorite material to turn into biochar and he said cannabis stalks instead of hardwoods. That sounds like a great idea stalks and stems are pretty abundant in our lives, and usually we don't do much with them other than compost. I've been saving stems for a long time waiting to do something with them. My original ideas were: make an all cannabis compost using old stems and stalks as the "brown" materials and using fresh harvested leaves as the "green" material. Then I heard about a local guy using them by burning them and using the ash to make ceramics, we had talked about me giving him stems and he would make me ashtray for my cannabis bar... An ashtray made from ashes. Lol.
I think it would be pretty cool for us if we could grow our plants in a mix of compost and biochar both made from cannabis, then feed them with a "nutrient tea" made from soaking cannabis leftovers in water. I saw an old paper from the 1890s where a farmer scientist had discovered that he could feed his hemp by using the water from his retting pond that he retts (rots) the hemp stalks in before being processed for fiber.

Anyways here's the biochar episode from Shaping Fire Podcast.

 

pjlive

Active member
I just listened to a good podcast episode about biochar.
The guest was asked what is his favorite material to turn into biochar and he said cannabis stalks instead of hardwoods. That sounds like a great idea stalks and stems are pretty abundant in our lives, and usually we don't do much with them other than compost. I've been saving stems for a long time waiting to do something with them. My original ideas were: make an all cannabis compost using old stems and stalks as the "brown" materials and using fresh harvested leaves as the "green" material. Then I heard about a local guy using them by burning them and using the ash to make ceramics, we had talked about me giving him stems and he would make me ashtray for my cannabis bar... An ashtray made from ashes. Lol.
I think it would be pretty cool for us if we could grow our plants in a mix of compost and biochar both made from cannabis, then feed them with a "nutrient tea" made from soaking cannabis leftovers in water. I saw an old paper from the 1890s where a farmer scientist had discovered that he could feed his hemp by using the water from his pond that he retts the hemp stalks in.
Anyways here's the biochar episode from Shaping Fire Podcast.


I've seen this!

Even before I did, I've been saving my stems and fans. My ultimate plan is to cut them all down into chips and pieces to be used in the pot (not necessarily for cannabis) for additional drainage and aeration.

I don't have the info in my head while I write this, but there are some scholarly articles out there that involve using dried cannabis stems and leaves in media mixes. Apparently cannabis plants love to grow their roots around their own dead materials.

One of the most popular materials used to make biochar is walnut shells. A close runner up is rice hulls.
 

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