Thai Stick Test Grow

[Guest]

Nah man, the stretch doesn't annoy me, it's reassuring as it's not stretch from stress of improper environment, she has a good structure, it's really nice to see that she is diplyign all the traits spoken of when folks talk about pre SE Asian sativas - incredibly long, thin leaves, very big, long calyxes, lemon/vanilla smell, this is what I was looking for - a truly extreme full-on sativa monster, sure, she and the Jahwi's Joy are going mad and have turned into mad hedges, but they are both starting to get into their flowering stride and I can see that they are gonna be beauties when they are (finally!) done. I think this Thai will represent the crowning achievement of my mad, crazy attempts to grow exotic pure equatorial sativas in tiny spaces with tiny lights.

CFLs will grow sativas very well, I grew a few sativas that way, but I noticed a huge step up in their happiess and vigour when switching to HPS.

The next experiment I want to try with an equatorial sativa is to use a few hundred UV LEDs as supplementary lighting to try to simulate the intense UV levels at the equator. I spent a few months in southern Mexico and travelled as far south as Guatemala, and the sun is incredibly fierce at midday, as you know Smokey, folks don't come any paler and whiter than me without being albino so I went everywhere wearing as much suncream as possible and a Panama hat. I remember well how strong the sun was at midday, and I'll never be conviced that HPS can accurately mimic that kind of beating intensity. The sativa I'm going to use for my further sativa experiments is my Mexican from the Yucatan, at 14 weeks she is much less time consuming than an extreme sativa and yields very well indeed under HPS, she's a joy to grow and I reckon she is an ideal candidate for UV experiments as she must be able to cope with very high levels of UV if she is from Yucatan. I realise that LEDs produce UV-A rather than UV-B, but I reckon 100 385-387nm Uv LEDs, 100 390-400nm UV LEDs and 100 375nm UV LEDs should be a helluva lot of UV and perhaps the Uv levels will reach similar levels to the equatorial regions.

I've bought a cheap UV meter and I'm gonna study this UV thing intensively, I think it is going to make a big difference to an equatorial sativa that must have evolved to grow under very high UV levels. I'll have to do some research and find out what kind of UV levels are found in nature, certainly UV level's are hgiher at altituide, and whether it's Colombian Highland, Nepalese Highland or Ethiopian Highland, fols always say that the pot that gets you the most high is grown at high altitude. I know a Hawaiian guy who swears that to get a truly spiritually potent sativa experience, the sativa must be grown at altitude.

I have an El Yucateca cut flowering now and this is my third run of her under HPS, I've got a good handle on how she performs in my current setup, so it will be fascinating to see how she does with the supplementary UV added next run.

 

[guest123]

a few things i dug up on uv s ganja pasha ...
have u used a metal halida in your room to see what affect it had on the pure sativas ,, ive noticed they seem to prefer it to hps ,

Uv radiation – the invisible killer



Australia has the highest incidence of skin cancer in the world. More than 1400 Australians die from skin cancer each year, and 1 in 2 people will get skin cancer in their lifetime.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the invisible killer that you can’t see and you can’t feel. """""Heat or high temperatures are not an indication of UV radiation."""""

 

[Guest]

Hiya Wally

UV is dangerous stuff, but it's UV-B that is the real danger, as long as I am sensible with these UV-A LEDs and don't shine one directly in my eyes, it will be fine. I am planning toi rig up an external switch to turn off the UV LEDs before opeing the grow cupboard so I don't have any UV exposure, beside, the levels of UV-A we are talkign about would just give me a light tan, it's the danger to the eyes you have to worry about. We're not talking welder's goggles needed here, just a normal pair of sunglasses with UV coating, but by using an external switch, I can avoid even needing sunglasses. Of course, the plants will have to bear the full brunt of the UV and that should result in increased trichome production. Perhaps it is possible that I can make my plants produce a lot more resin by giving them a lot more uV, maybe not, but many informed folks seem to think that UV is very significant in the production of resin by our beloved herb.

Sativas sure do prefer MH, OT1 and others suggest using a 600w MH and a 400w HPS for growing sativas. Here's some info on UV as regards THC and trichome production:

Posted by OT1 @ http://www.reefermanseeds.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234

Growing weed that is truly hallucigenic does not have much to do with the strain. They can all do it - any decent strain that is in the class of Cannabis. Be it indica or sativa. Though with Sativas you are more likely to succeed as they have resin balls on the end of their tricloms that are of a smaller diameter than the resin balls of an indica.Sativas are 25micron in diameter - Indicas 75micron in diameter, when fully developed, respectivley.


For a better understanding of what I am refering to, please go and read this - it is the most pioneering work of our times on this subject - and is correct down to a Tee. Read it thoroughly and understand everything it is depicting, as it will elevate your complete understanding on how REAL hallucigenic cannabis is grown. It is not the genes - it is the means by which it is done. Irrespective as to what all other works/text and seedbank-advertising has said or outlined about it till NOW.

Enjoy:

http://marijuana-optics.greatnow.com/

There are proper Fluorescent UVB(and UVA) tubes available and they're much more expensive than the UVA and the standard ones(4times or more the cost). Never run them on Energy-saver or Econo running gear as that produces less lumen output with any fluro. But be very careful when using the UVB tubes. If not for the slightly glowing tube when they are on, you could hardly tell they were on in the room - they transmit entirely in the invisible wavebands, whereas UVA tubes, MH and HPS transmit low amounts of only in the UVA waveband, which is slightly visible(voilet) and nowhere near as penetrating/powerful as UVB. But expose any skin to them(UVB 40W tubes) from less than 6feet away, and it burns in minutes. Like proper sunburn and worse if closer - can easily promote skinCancer(as does the sun). Can give you cateract in no time at all, even with sunglasses, from even 10feet away and more. IF you intend on using them, make sure that you never walk into the growroom when they are on. Have a swtch for them outside the room, or just inside the door. If just inside the door, turn them on and off immediatly you close or open the door. One 40Wer can cover an area 5foot down, 5foot by 5foot across. So with every 600 or 1000Watter, you have 1 40W UVB Fluro with it, AND '120W Clear Incandescent bulb as well for 1 hour either side of lights on and off - simulating the red ambient light of the outdoors ever dusk and dawn of every day anywhere in the world'. This Incandescent wavelength is as critical as any other. The lightband is required as it aids in the 'benefical' toxification and detoxification the plant needs to complete the activation process fully. Couple all that up and timed correctly indoors with either MH or HPS, and pollenate the mum/s, and you'll be well on your way to producing the most potent buds you can indoors. More potent than any indoors buds grown without all these factors - no matter how sticky and smelly they are. They won't be as potent as the ones you grow using this ENTIRE method.

This one will do but be careful not to place them too close to the plant as they will burn it too. Be very careful when using them not to damage yourself also. Go to the 3rd item down on this page - LS18/CB - 240 Volt UV Lamp:


http://www.prospectors.com.au/defaul...ine.asp&id=176

You can email or ring companies like Raytech and or Heraus for full specs of all there products. They make their lamps for the manufacturing, scientific and medical industries. Heraeus - http://www.noblelight.net/tr-uvindex.html - also have a range of hand-made MH that are very strong in emitting the UV bandwidths. Being specialised lamps, they are not cheap. Using the sun itself is cheaper and far safer. There are cheaper fluros on the market that will do the job - you just have to find them, but they are not as high in there output of the desired wavelengths(300-315nm) as are these specialised ones for professional work. The wattages required for the right type of UVB are far less than we are normally use to with fluros. 10W of proper UVB light is extremly powerful in its illumince output, penetration and damaging effects. Keeping in mind when looking for them to ask for the ones that have a very hi output in the 300-315 nano meter range - that is the most effective UVB range. The reptile tubes are very low output in this range, they have a higher output above the 320nm range and into the UVA range. They are not good for growing, that is why you can keep your hand warm with them and not cause it any damage/burn. Remember that the lamps we need here will damamge flesh and eyes if exposed to them, even for a short period of time. I do not recommend using them. They can be used, but it is hard to get them setup right and to maintain using them without hurting yourself. But keeping in mind that as with everything we need - if we can't have it all, some is better than none. To supplement your existing HID setup with any UVB emitting lamp is better than not having one at all. But it must have a reasonable amount of output in the 300-315nm wavelengths. They are the wavelengths that are most effective and they operate at the prefered Kelvin temperature range that the plant needs to see/feel, that aids in the full activation.

The BLACK tubes are a UVA tube fundamentally. They will not have much effect on the plants. Your may have stretched as a result of not enough light ot too much heat or a combo of both. Black lights, reptile lights, aquarium UV lights are all UVA rich, not UVB. They have a very small amount of UVB, and it is that minute amount(well under 3% - some under 0.9% of the total UV spectrum they emit, not the total spectrum they emit) that makes them warm things. Even 1W of the right UVB spectrum at a distance of 1foot from the source will burn you in no time.

So IMO, again - if you want to do it right and saftely, do it outside. I answered the question of the what the right UVB lamp is, not because I would advise others to do it(as I wouldn't do it myself), but as a guide to show that it could be done if one was crazy enough to do it. Also not forgetting the aging effect the lamp would have on anything and everything that it shined on in the growroom. Newly painted surfaces would look over 20years old in 1 year of exposure from a good distance away. In fact scientists use this method for determining the aging and destructive effect that sunlight exposure has on any surface. They can very very accuratly determine how a given paint(for instance) would look after 10 years of being applied on wood, then exposed to the sun every day, within a 'half to one hour' period of exposure to the predetermined amount of UVB in a laboratory. I have it on good authority that a test like that would take no longer than an hour to run - not days, weeks, months or years. Testing time could even be reduced by increase the amount/rate of UVB on it, to as little as under 15minutes of exposure, to simulate 10years in the sun every day. But that would increase the error factor of the testing to over 2%. Which may seem ok to us, but it is not in the scientific industries with this type of testing and determination that is done in any decent Standards Certified photometric laboratory.

These are supplimental urls to the original one I gave in my first post.

http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/N35Lat.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litesetup.html
http://seedless-marijuana.greatnow.com/litepic.html


OT


3 - "Are you saying to run only the red incandescent during the first and last hours of lights-on?"

YES, as the sole source of light for the 1st and last hour of the entire life of an indoor grow - both veg and flower.

"And the UVB flouro(s) during the entire light-cycle?".

The UVB fluros are a supplemental source to the HIDs and are run in conjunction with the HIDs only during the period that is within the 'first and last hours of lights-on', after and before the incandescent lights are run. Rememeber also, that the transition between the incandescent lights and the HIDs+UVfluros is a MAKE-BEFORE-BREAK scenario that assures the plants are not left in darkness.

 

[guest123]

wow looks like a good read , will give it a look ...
sounds like a good way of u getting a tan prior to going to the carribbean mate ,, haha ,, i can see u with the deck chair in the growroom ... lol ....

 

[Elevator Man]

Good to have you in here Wally - while you're around, check out this (blurry) actual-size pic of some fresh sticks straight from the vac-bag - these are stuck together purely with each other's resin:



Ganja Pasha - my god - I thought it was dead? So - are there clones...?

Speaking of sativas, my Oaxacan Golds are ready to go into flower - just waiting for the last Mikado to finish (it's done by Thursday, whether it likes it or not). Both look to be female - one definite, one probable - if not, I'll whip it out and chop the thing into a thousand clones!

 

[smokeymacpot]

have u used a metal halida in your room to see what affect it had on the pure sativas ,, ive noticed they seem to prefer it to hps ,

thats the same as what cfls will do, but obviously far far better denser bud. i know that my next lamp will be one of those CMH's

 

[guest123]

Good to have you in here Wally - while you're around, check out this (blurry) actual-size pic of some fresh sticks straight from the vac-bag - these are stuck together purely with each other's resin:



!

hey nice elevator man , they look great ... been so long since ive seen thaid sticks .... although i recall the ones we got were more of a browny chocolate colour ... whats the smell and taste like on the ones u have there??
kinda makes u wonder where that stuff starts it s life and what happens along the way to your hands ...
ill add a pic of some sativa im growing elevator man , that more than likely also hails from south east asia ...most likely thailand ...

 

[Guest]

Ganja Pasha - my god - I thought it was dead? So - are there clones...?

Well, the story goes like this - everything went to the tip, the whole kit and caboodle, the only things that didn't were my seeds, my bongs, my pipes and my stash, a friend who is possibly the only person I'm not directly related to I'm prepared to trust right now (no offense to ANYONE else, but I've been lubed up and well fucked by a lot of people lately) came over to collect those things and I was in the middle of chopping everything down when he arrived. I had left the Thai and Jahwi's Joy till last and they were still untouched when he saw them and he positively refused to let me take the secateurs to them, he thoroughly enjoyed the Thai sticks and was wll aware that this plant came from those seeds, he had smoked at least 50g of the stick as I shared that much of them with him, and he collected all the viable seeds from those for me, but I never expected him to offer to take care of the plants. Anyways, he drives one of those tiny Smart city cars and I tell you, you have never seen a funnier sight than a big bloke driving off with these two huge sativas crammed into the back of this thing. There wasn't much we could do to pack plants this size (over 4 feet tall, the Thai is 2ft wide, the Jahwi's 3ft) was to put a black bin bag (trash sack to you US folks) over each one and pray no policeman drove close behind. My friend made it home safe with the two sativas and my 250w HPS and again surprised me by following my instructuons precisely and setting it up correctly. I have been to visit them every other day and they are just as healthy as when they left, I have been teaching him to care for them and all he has to do is keep em watered and fed for another few months and maybe, just maybe, we will pull this off and get them all the way to maturity.

El Yuc also survives, as do the Purple Afghan male and female, they are currently growing like mad in the middle of the forest, when it's safe to do so I'll go clone the hell outta them. The hope is that I end up with many PA and PA x El Yuc seeds come October time.

Clones of the Thai? Nope, and I did a good job of removing all the lower growth a couple of months back, but she has so many branches I'm sure I could remove a couple of the lowest, whether my friend will be able to root them is highly doubtful though, I'm not able to have anything here at my place, I'm still expecting the coppers to knock on my door, I'm only keeping 2 days supply of smoke here, hence my frequent visits to my firends - he is holding my stash for me. This Thai is a bastard to clone, I faled to get any out of about a dozen to root, but when I destroyed everything, my bubble cloner had 3 Thai clones in it that had just begun growing roots, so it can be done. Not that I have the bubble cloner anymore.

Wally, no offense, but fuck off with that jaw-dropping, stunning, awesomely beautiful Asian bitch will ya? It's positively giving my Thai/Laos lady an inferiority complex! Only kidding mate, I ALWAYS enjoy your posts! lol

 

[guest123]

hahahaha thanks gp , gave me a good giggle ...

 

[Guest]

Funny thing is, I've had a noticebale lack of sense of humour all day, then I have a nice fat joint of sativa and it comes right back! Amazing, this herb we love so much, how I love thee!

Night-night folks, I;m off to bed - fucked

 

[Jon]

Man...I didn't even know thai stick was a real strain. I thought it was, as Cheech put it, "That shit that's tied to a stick."

 

[Prof Sublime]

Has anyone grown the traveling thai from Nirvana? Any results??

 

[Guest]

Oh it's real alright, and it's looking good so far:

Not tried Nirvana's version, for the price it is worth a pop. Kulu Seeds do a Thai, that while not pure, is very, very good, it's fruity and tasty and has some very sativa phenos.

 

[Prof Sublime]

Yeah that plant is freaking tall haha. I wonder how I could grow a thai plant in a not so big box, maybe in a year. I wonder how real the Nv version of it is. It makes it sounds 100% real thai, sounds like a try.

 

[Guest]

My Thai lady is about to receive some extra lighting courtesy of my new LED experiment. I've been making some LED arrays, 60 LEDs per panel, they consume 6W per panel, I'm adding four of them directly over the Thai, they are UV LEDs, 388-387nm, so we'll see what 24w of UV does to her, might be overkill, but surely she is adapted to coping with high UV levels, being from the tropics?

 

[esbe]

wow bh! is it expensive to make led lamps yourself?

good to follow your sativas!

 

[ojd]

hi bh
coming along slowly but nicely

i have 1 of these in flower now
i think its been about a month
and is starting to put out its first hairs(this is the clone from my previous run)
yours looks at least a month ahead
therers clones available if you or elevator man need them
this is the first run of her in coco and she seems to like it but hates the food
she been geting water mainly and the odd feed
it a bitch to get some pics(shes to big and in a tent with many others) but i will take some today or tomorow for comparison to your pheno
i cant wait to hit her up with some pollen,ive got a bunch of seeds on the go and will have alot of males to choose from
anyway keep that thai tamed bro
peace

 

[smokeymacpot]

surely your going to need to tie those tops down abit??
its coming along, but wow they are slow lol, i cant remember how long mine used to take, maybe 3 1/2 months?
has it started to resin up nicely yet? can you get a close up of it too.

 

[ojd]

heres a few pics

 

[Guest]

wow bh! is it expensive to make led lamps yourself?

good to follow your sativas!

Hi Esbe. They can be not too expensive, the circuit boards are 1 pound each, the 1R resistors are 65p for 100. It is the cost of the LEDs themselves and the time it takes to make them that are the main concerns. You can get cheap LEDs from the far east for as little as 5ukp per hundred, although from UK suppliers they can be 3-4x that. The problem is finding all the different wavelengths necessary, and you need these ones really:

<380nm UV-A
430nm blue/purple
470nm blue
565nm green
625nm red/amber
640nm red
660nm deep red
700nm near infrared

The 430s and 700s are proving hard to find at reasonable prices, I'm usign warm white LEDs as the basis of my flowering panels as they are actualy 440-460nm blue LEDs covered in a yellow/green phosphor so they produce a load of blue light in the 440-470nm range, then a broad spectrum output in the 500-650nm range, so I am using a bunch of those plus lots of 625, 640 and 660nm red LEDs so there is a lot of red spectrum ,which plants use when flowering.

I have designed the panels around the PSUs I have available, and I have several laptop PSUs that produce 19.5v at 3.34A and some that produce 19V at 3.1A. The panel pictured was my first prototype and used a 12v PSU, but my 'production' panels have 5 LEDs in series, 12 strings for 60 LEDs total per panel. I will have ten panels running off a 19v PSU, this will mean I have 120 strings of LEDs and 3.1A/120 = 25.8 milliamps per string, which is comfortably within the 30mA limit of the LEDs. It should draw almost 60 watts, we can work this out by using ohm's law: 19V x 3.1A = 58.6W.

I'm not sure how much it is finally going to cost to build the 10 panels, but I'd say about 100ukp. If I find them to work well, I might offer to make some more if anyone else fancies experimenting with LEDs, I'm not sure exactly how much they would cost, but I wouldn't be looking to make a profit, just cover my costs and the point would be to help someone else start experimenting and hopefully learn a lot about the possibilities of using current cheap LEDs to grow ganja.

This is one of my 19V panels, I've only made 2 out of the 8 so far, I ran out of circuit boards so had to order some more.

Anyways, I'll be posting a comprehensive thread on my hard work making these panels soon, back to the Thai. Hiya ojd, glad to see you are still working with this strain, and I see strong similarities between your girl and mine, what light regime are you using? I'm keen to see how long a clone will take to flower, whether it is a lot quicker than the mother or not. I'll take you up on that clone offer at some point, I'll give ya some of the Purple Afghan x Thai seeds when they are done, those could throw out some interesting phenos indeed, or at least I'm guessing they will!

I'm finding that mine like ec 1.6 with plain water every 4th day, this is keeping mine very happy without clawed leaves, ph 5.8 seems ideal for her, no signs of ph spotting or issues, she is really healthy and I think it's just a case of feeding her light and often, I handwater daily and although she is a huge plant for a 1.7l pot, she isn't drying ou betweenm waterings. The Jahwi's is much thristier and is also in a 1.7l pot, she does get quite dry between waterings, but not so dry it's being a problem.