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Testing soil ph is easy

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meduser180056

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Great post again Sproutco. Your a wealth of information.

Testing Your EC and PH is critical. These two things have improved my grow %100.

I did several grows without either a PH or EC reader and the plants suffered. Too much guesswork.

After getting my EC meter I learned I had been consistently overfeeding. Like someone said above you'd be surprised how high the EC can get in soil/soilless mediums when using powerful nutes like PBP or GH 3 part.

After getting the PH meter I learned that my local tap water has a PH of 9. I used to just water with that tap water with no adjustments. Probably wasn't so bad when I added nutes, but when I was giving em str8 water the PH must have been horrible. Thank god for the natural PH buffering ability of soil or my first grows would have been complete disasters. I started in normal soil, but later switched to Pro-mix.

This is why they say soil is good for newbies because it is so forgiving.

Now I'm calculating my nutrient profile using PH's spreadsheet/lucas formula,

Ph-ing every watering, and always checking EC.

I agree with BabyHughie that testing the runoff is the easiest method, and I also agree that the initial runoff is most likely the best indicator of where the soil is at.
It's more work, but I always test runoff now.

I'm in Pro-mix HP. This stuff is great.

Sproutco- I usually PH my water to around 6.2, but I've been finding the runoff coming out as low as 5.6. I'm thinking 6.4 might be a better PH.
You think 5.6 is too low for Pro-mix? I'm worried it might continue to drift lower creating some PH problems.

Also what EC would you shoot for the run-off of a soilless mix like Pro-mix?
I've been trying to keep it around 1.6-2.0. If it gets over 2.0 I flush.

I recommend ALWAYS checking your runoff after watering. At least until you get to the point where you just know what it is cuz you've done it some many times. Even then you'd want to test it occasionally I think. It's more work, but this guarantees the plants medium is where it's supposed to be. I bought a lil mini shopvac [$30] and I use it to suck up the runoff after they've fully drained. Then I test it.

The shopvac makes it much easier, plus if you leave a plant sitting in the container with it's own runoff pooled around it. It will suck up the runoff within 12 hours. This isn't good if you just flushed out a bunch of nasties such as accumulated salts etc.

End of rant....
 
G

Guest

Did you add dolomite lime to your promix?If you didnt your ph will continue to drop especially during flower you should keep that in mind when making adjustments.Suburban homeboy thats the first I've heard of waiting 30 min. I have never done that.Thats good to know
 
G

Guest

Welll the story gets worse. Last night I tried adjusting my ph again, and the meter would still only read 6.9 after a strong application of ph down...so I decided to use some test strips...yikes! The test strips showed a ph of about 4-5. I guess my meter is punched. Brand new too.

I didn't use the ph adjusted nutes too much, so things should be alright. They look fine at this point.

New rule....always check a new meter with ph test strips before believing it works.

Cheers,
SH
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
meduser180056 said:
Sproutco- I usually PH my water to around 6.2, but I've been finding the runoff coming out as low as 5.6. I'm thinking 6.4 might be a better PH.
You think 5.6 is too low for Pro-mix? I'm worried it might continue to drift lower creating some PH problems.
Your probably doing the right thing by not adjusting the fert water so low in ph if your runnoff is coming out low in ph.
 

meduser180056

Active member
Skeletor- Pro-mix already comes with dolomite lime mixed in.

Should I have mixed in more?

I thought Pro-mix was good to go out of the bag?

What's a good target EC for the rootzone in Pro-mix? Anyone know?
 
I always see people say "Using RO water" But its always abbreviated... What does RO stand for??? Sorry for the newb question but ive seen this crap 100's of times and never spelled out.
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

I have found that D.lime takes care of the pH as long as you don't over do it with pH for a long period of time (even D.lime has its limits)

I pH my ferts to the low 6's and always- even at the end of flowering have a runoff pH of high 6's to 7. Neary a change.

I am using ewc/guano/kelp/molasses teas supllimented when needed with Alaska fish at 1/2 strenght.

minds_I
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
meduser180056 said:
Skeletor- Pro-mix already comes with dolomite lime mixed in.

Should I have mixed in more?

I thought Pro-mix was good to go out of the bag?
You probably don't need more lime. You could always add some powdered gypsum to supply your plants with sulfur and a little more calcium. That is a common addition to other "pro" soilless mixes.
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
bump...I can't find this because it drifts off then I have to use search to find it and it highlights everything in red. Just trying to help everyone out.
 
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G

Guest

I used to use promix bro and yes definately add 1 tbls per gallon soil mix and you may see you fans stay greener longer during flower.They say lime is added but I still used to drop to around 5 ph pretty consistently until I started using dolomite,it really made the difference it never went below 6 again
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
If your adjusting your fertilizer water ph after mixing then ph drops/rising shouldn't be a problem. Your soil ph will "chase" the waters ph up or down. I add powdered gypsum and epsom salts to my water to boost cal/mag levels especially after the soil has been watered many times and leached/removed the dolomite that was initially added.
 
G

Guest

Promix is acidic as hell and in flower when it used to drop to 5 I'd flush with 8 ph,9 ph,it doesnt matter at that point,it wont chase your nutrient ph its too acidic,be safe and add dolomite its simple
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
My nutrient solutions (see signature on how to make) contain alot of calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate so ph tends to rise. This is because both these things contain nitrate nitrogen(which is good and not ammonia/urea). Nitrates are taken up by the plant as the NO3 anion (means negative). The plant releases OH anion in response into the soil which causes a rise in ph.
 

meduser180056

Active member
Thx skeletor. I'll probably try your suggestion on a couple next time and see how it works.

Skeletor- Your in Coco right? Could you explain why you switched over from Pro-mix?

I don't think I'd ever go back to soil. I have thought about switching to Coco though as I 've heard it's even better than Peatbased mixes. I like the info over on PG about soilless methods.
 
G

Guest

coco blows peat based mixes away if you get it dialed in. Some people say you can use it like peat..but I disagree. You can't let coco dry out like peat or you'll have a really slow growth.

Keep it moist, even rtw daily, and it's way better than peat.

Cheers,
SH
 
G

Guest

No I use fox farm ocean forest now,I just like it better than promix,I still use dolomite lime though
 

inc0gnit0

Active member
I grow using Pro-Mix plus added Organic amendments. My pH is about 7. My plants love it! Soiless\Schmoiless! The proof for me is in the pudding and my girls are thriving man...
 
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