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Team Microbe's Nose Dive into No-till (2nd cycle)

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Greetings guys/gals,

This thread is an extension of my first thread - Team Microbe's Living Soil Laboratory where you can find the answers to a lot of the questions I've been getting, like the soil mix I use along with my watering regimen, and cloning routine. Very stoked to see how much attention the first thread got, hopefully this will one will also document this dive into no-till well enough for others to follow along and benefit from as well. These threads I make are not only for my own documentation, but as a platform for other like-minded growers to teach and learn from each other on. So feel free to pull up a chair, smoke somethin and join in on this one :tiphat:


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Silver Lotus #1 - 1st cycle no-till - chopped at Day 84


SO - This new thread will begin with the 2nd cycle in the same pots I just harvested from, all without tilling. I'll be documenting everything I do for the most part, and hopefully some useful side discussion is had along the way...

I'll be honest, I was skeptical when I first heard about this style of growing. I couldn't imagine how it could be done... the idea of leaving the same soil in the same pots run after run sounded like some deficiencies were just bound to pop up. Once I researched more into it, and watched others in my circle come out with success... I needed to give it a go. I found out that the more microbes present in your media, the less the amount of nutrients are needed to carry that plant through to full maturity. Since soil biology only grows with time, it would seem that plants only get healthier and higher performing as time goes on. A few of my mentors have proven this theory true, as they're on their 13th & 14th cycles as of now and are absolutely killing it in terms of quality and yield (Blue Jay over at Grasscity, Invocation, Permalos, and a few others). I've also been inspired by gardeners like John Kempf (found over at BioNutrient.org), Elaine Ingham, Coots, Jeremy from BAS, and Microbe Man here in IC.


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Living soil pushing this Silver Lotus to peak health (week 3)

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Same plant now at week 11


It's pretty fascinating how the entire process works, and the funniest part is that it's very quite simple once the basics are covered and understood. For anyone lost out in left field right now, it's ok - all you need to know is that it's all thanks to the:

Soil microbiology

Soil microbiology is the study of organisms in soil, their functions, and how they affect soil properties. It is believed that between two and four billion years ago, the first ancient bacteria and microorganisms came about in Earth's primitive seas. These bacteria could fix nitrogen, in time multiplied and as a result released oxygen into the atmosphere. This release of oxygen led to more advanced microorganisms. Microorganisms in soil are important because they affect the structure and fertility of different soils. Soil microorganisms can be classified as bacteria, actinomycetes, fungi, algae, and protozoa. Each of these groups has different characteristics that define the organisms and different functions in the soil it lives in.

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Some Silver Lotus #2 post-trim

So I suppose you could say that no-till gardening harvests the power of nature. It not only reduces the amount of work needed in order for a grower to see full health in their garden, but reduce input costs as well (I only paid $50 to begin this run with 12 pots). Instead of tilling up the soil, previous crop's leaf litter and stems/branches are simply dropped to the floor, and recycled back into top layer. The majority of all soil microbes reside here, and naturally ingest the carbon that is produced from the bacteria and fungi found in that soil. Just like in the forest, mature trees fall to the ground and become broken down by bacteria and fungi on the top layer of the forest floor, which are later food for the next generation to feed upon. It's a self-sufficient process that has the potential to operate infinitely if left undisturbed; no tilling needed. This is no different, we're literally bio-mimicking to the fullest extent possible being indoor gardeners. New doors have opened for me by practicing this style of growing, and it makes a lot of sense to me. It's really a beautiful sight to see... let alone observe as a grower. Bug identification becomes more prevalent, and even exciting at times - especially when you realize that creepy crawly thing you lost sleep over is actually beneficial to your soil system... phew lol
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
2nd Cycle No-Till

2nd Cycle No-Till

Anyways, that's enough intro - let's just get into it the post-harvest routine already:



So here I am, I've harvested my plants, hung, and dried them into jars for the cure. Instead of throwing away my leaves and stems, I drop them down on top of the straw mulch left to decompose into microbe-loving carbon

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I'll continue to water pots as usual until transplant day so I don't kill off my soil biology. All I need to do to start the next run is add the following in a top dress:

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2" of earthworm castings
handful of cover crop seeds
2 tsp - 1 tbsp kelp
2 tsp - 1 tbsp neem or karanja meal
(they're the same in a horticultural setting, karanja is cheaper most of the time though)


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I'll pull half of the mulch back, and lay a few inches of humus down. I chose Rocky Mtn EWC in this case since my worm bin isn't ready to harvest quite yet. This stuff is black gold - a priceless additive.


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Then a light sprinkle of cover crop seed. I don't like to go thick anymore on this stuff because it causes problems with airflow and harbors bugs better when it's too dense. Just a small handful is all that's needed here. This seed will germinate on it's own with regular waterings under the thick layer of straw and leaf mulch on top. On top of the cover crop seeds I sprinkle the kelp & neem/karanja, then work everything into the castings evenly. Once this half of the pot is dressed, I'll simply repeat this process on the other side.
*Note that I only lay down 1 tbsp of kelp/neem per pot, not per side.


From this point, I'll take rooted cuttings or seedlings and dig a small hole right next to the existing root stalk, and transplant directly into the top layer. That's it! After a few weeks of watering, the cover crops will work their way up through the mulch and will begin not only forming relationships with the plant's mycorrhizae, but will retain moisture and begin converting atmospheric nitrogen into plant available nitrogen. Cover crops also add carbon to the soil for microbes to eat, and I'm pretty sure it builds soil structure too by root penetration. It's safe to say that cover cropping has been one of the best additions to my garden, and I highly recommend looking into it if you grow in soil.

Right now I'm using a 40% clover blend from Buildasoil:
Oats - Rockford
Flax - Brown
Clover - Yellow Sweet
Clover - Duch
Clover - Medium Red
Clover - Crimson
Lentils - Indainhead
Safflower
Hairy Vetch
Vetch - Common
Rape - Dwarf Essex
Buckwheat - Mancan
Pea - Forage



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After laying down a few handfuls of straw on top of the old straw, I'll drench with a worm casting tea to kick start the biology in the pots once again.

The idea behind the cups inside the pots in the back of the picture is to not disturb any cover crop mycorrhizae, that way I can transplant smoothly from each beer cup to the beer cup templates these will leave behind. I applied this technique before with a barley cover crop and the transplants blasted off into veg faster than I've ever seen before... then I learned that the barley mycorrhizae was to thank since it immediately inoculated my cuttings' root zone upon transplant. I wanted to do the same to the pots up front but we'll see if there's a noticeable difference in the two methods now. I'm putting my bets on the pots with templates...

Now I'll wait for cuttings to root, pick out the next run's line up, and wait for cover crops to peak up through the mulch before transplanting into this 2nd cycle.

Strains in the running to be chosen are as follows:

Silver Lotus (Snow Lotus pheno)
Silver Lotus (SSH pheno)
Sicilian Revenge
Cheese Candy
Blueberry Headband
Cat Piss x Stardawg (one of Gu's new tester strains)
Mt. Rainier
Jack Diesel
 

stoned-trout

if it smells like fish
Veteran
great thread... no till living soil rules...when I had greenhouses my raised beds were alive an happy..yeehaw rock on man..if ya do it right worms will thrive and contribute a lot to the setup
 
F

Fields~of~Green

Awesome stuff TM just what ive been waiting for

Subbed :tiphat:
 

Polygon

Member
Gonna watch the show again. Keep up the great work TM!

Adopting some of the techniques I've seen you and Cootz do, I've seen an amazing increase in plant and soil health! I suggest that anyone who's still using bottled nutes or enzymes to get on the no-till organic train - it works.
 

Kiloz

Member
Finally :D

I'm gonna try planting a layer of cover crops on my next grow. Not gonna grow like this, will be using general organics line. But it wont hurt huh?
 
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Can't wait to see and read all the great info about to come, best of luck TM. Question for you and perfect timing: I will try to explain it best I can so bear with me. Say I have just cut my harvest down from my 10 gallon no-till and I am ready to transplant my clone which is rooted nicely since I took a cutting 1 week before the last plant went into flower. How do you transplant this without disturbing the microbe life in the soil of the last plant? by digging a hole large enough to contain the root system and plant? I see and understand the cups placed ahead of time in the soil in preparation, but, round after round how would you do it without disturbing, or, is it ok to create a hole to transplant as long as it is only in the direct area for the plant? thanks TM. The question is basically about clones and not seeds which I understand planting right next to the last one. I don't want my clones to get a large root system and then have to disturb the soil when transplanting.
 

Former Guest

Active member
Guess it's about time I subscribe to one if your grow threads

Guess it's about time I subscribe to one if your grow threads

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I'm in!!
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Thanks everyone, glad to have you all...

I suppose while I'm waiting for clones to root, I'll share some shots of last run -

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Easy Street by TG genetics


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Central Valley Kush by TG genetics before the final trim

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...and after


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Silver Lotus by Bodhi


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Sicilian Revenge by TG genetics



While you can look through the first thread I posted for this soil mix, I want to make it easy for everyone so here it is:


Soil Mix:
1 pt. Peat Moss

1 pt. Rice Hulls

1 pt. Compost


Mixed with:


Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Crustacean Meal @ 1/2 cub per cubic foot

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot




All in all, my first run using the "less is more" logic while mixing soil has turned out a lot better than expected to be honest. Plants reached maturity without deficiencies, and faded out in late flower properly too. I had some troubles in TGA Super Soil before with all of that N in there, and it resided in the smoke after plants never faded out properly. This time that was not the case at all, plants finished well and on time with full fades (some don't fade as much as others depending on strain I've noticed). There's no need to complicate a soil mix with all of these additives IMO, and I've finally seen it first hand to be able to say this.

I'd like to share this great article Jeremy wrote up that really calls bullshit about a lot of the ingredients in the TGA Soil. It's def worth a read!
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Gonna watch the show again. Keep up the great work TM!

Adopting some of the techniques I've seen you and Cootz do, I've seen an amazing increase in plant and soil health! I suggest that anyone who's still using bottled nutes or enzymes to get on the no-till organic train - it works.

Thanks Polygon! :tiphat:

Finally :D

I'm gonna try planting a layer of cover crops on my next grow. Not gonna grow like this, will be using general organics line. But it wont hurt huh?

You should be just fine going that route. Not ideal, but I've had great success with that line before in soil.

Can't wait to see and read all the great info about to come, best of luck TM. Question for you and perfect timing: I will try to explain it best I can so bear with me. Say I have just cut my harvest down from my 10 gallon no-till and I am ready to transplant my clone which is rooted nicely since I took a cutting 1 week before the last plant went into flower. How do you transplant this without disturbing the microbe life in the soil of the last plant? by digging a hole large enough to contain the root system and plant? I see and understand the cups placed ahead of time in the soil in preparation, but, round after round how would you do it without disturbing, or, is it ok to create a hole to transplant as long as it is only in the direct area for the plant? thanks TM. The question is basically about clones and not seeds which I understand planting right next to the last one. I don't want my clones to get a large root system and then have to disturb the soil when transplanting.

I hear you, I had the same issue and had to grow those cuttings out to cut from for this round. It's best to let it root for a week or so and then immediately transplant into that small hole in your pot. I was debating on cutting out a 2 gallon hole in my 10 gallon no-till pot but decided against it because I'd be destroying and taking out so much biology. Most of it resides in that top 4'' of the pot, so cutting a fat hole out would be taking a lot of those food delivery drivers out of the picture (microbes). I've been told to make as small of a hole as possible, and if in a 2 gallon pot or something relatively small - you can probably get away with shaking off excess soil after removing from the pot until it's down to the root ball. Then dig a hole big enough for that root mass and you're off the to races :tiphat:
 

Kiloz

Member
if buildasoil.com ships to europe im gonna start something like this, following your threads you make it look easy as hell.
Id love to make my own mix but finding it hard to get the ingredients locally.
 
Thanks TM, I suppose I can leave say 2 small cups in my no-till in areas for my 2nd and 3rd run and plant a seed in the center, then when ready for 2nd round gently pull out the cup and plant round 2, will try it, again thanks and looking forward to the grow.
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
if buildasoil.com ships to europe im gonna start something like this, following your threads you make it look easy as hell.
Id love to make my own mix but finding it hard to get the ingredients locally.

Thanks dude... I'm sure they do, but can't say for sure so I recommend getting in contact with Jeremy at - [email protected] to find out. He usually gets back to me within the 3 day mark

I know another grower from Europe was complaining about customs going through his shit and then charging him money for doing so afterwards... I'd be pretty frustrated if that happened. Sourcing materials is an art I've learned, and I'm not very good at it yet but it's all about calling businesses and being polite. If you go to manufacturer's websites and click on their "sold here" tab it'll usually show you what stores near you carry the product. Many things can be substituted with others, so if you can't source a specific amendment it's not the end of the world. Organic gardening is very forgiving :dance013:
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
Thanks TM, I suppose I can leave say 2 small cups in my no-till in areas for my 2nd and 3rd run and plant a seed in the center, then when ready for 2nd round gently pull out the cup and plant round 2, will try it, again thanks and looking forward to the grow.

Yeah you can do that, after the 3rd cycle you'll have to start digging a hole with your hand though so eventually you'll have to disturb some biology. I would honestly just throw 1 cup in there if you're growing covers before transplanting, it's not even necessary though and I think I just did it because I was curious. I may not notice any difference between the two methods, we'll see though!
 

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