Tea Article

[Microbeman]

Foam on CT can indicate microbial multiplication and the associated production of protein, however this is far from reliable. I know this from microscopic observation of CT packed with moving bacteria and other microorganisms and an absense of foam and the complete opposite; major foam and nary a microbe in sight.

 

[koolkush]

I was wondering I this sounded like a ok tea
25Gal water
10Cups worm compost
6 tbs alfalfa meal
3/4 cup of molasses
Brew for 24 thanks I appreciate the help first week of flower

 

[Swayze]

Hey everyone,

Sorry if this question has already been asked. Has anyone ever used a power filter (hanging off the side type) from an aquarium setup to brew their teas or do the impellers shred everything up?

Thanks

 

[SeaMaiden]

I never have, but the subject of magnetic impellers has come up before. I assumed, wrongly according to Microbeman, that passing microbes even once through an impeller would shred them to bits. He said that no, not much damage is done in one or a few passes. Recirculating through a pump, I'm still leaning toward it possibly causing a lot of tiny deaths if it's used for hours and hours, but specifically in a tea-brewing scenario I can't say for certain because I haven't tried it when brewing teas.

I do have experience with filtration for rearing certain very small marine animals. We don't use such pumps when rearing specific kinds of marine animals because they kill their food. Clownfishes are one such example I can think of off the toppa mah head.

There are, or were back when I was in it, some H.O.T. filters that pushed some serious flow. I can't remember the brand most often used for feeder fish tanks, King or something like that, but it got the water MOVIN'.

 

[Microbeman]

One or two passes through an impeller pump does not cause a lot of microbial damage but more than that it will shred up fungi pretty well. It does not really negatively impact bacteria/archaea or protozoa.

 

[sneaky_g]

my tea brewer..

my tea brewer..

I'm wondering what kind of temps should i be shooting for in my 5 gallon for my ACT tea.

here are some pics along with teh recipe..
Recipe says it only goes 24-36 hrs after adding ingredients. the last ingredient added is the mycorizzae 2 TBS







and the recipe is
5 gallon set up -
1 lb worm castings or Vermiblend
2 TBS molasses
1 TBS soy-ful
1 TBS humic acid
1 TBS Fish Hydrolysate
2 TBS Organic Soluable Seaweed
2 TBS Earth Juice Cata
2 TBS Primal Harvest Solution Guano
2 TBS Mycorrhizae (Add in the end of brewing cycle, the long term aeration will destroy teh fragile mycorrhizal Hyphae)
5 Gal of luke warm distilled or chlorine removed water

 

[sneaky_g]

I feel like my recipe is a little over kill. I've already aerated it for 24 hours and according to my recipe it says too add the mycorizzae at 2 tbs per 5 gallon. However, on this thread i've also read conflicting info that its a waste to even add it at all to the end of your tea..

I have 1 more transplant remaining in a few weeks for my vegging Purple kush.. If I applied the mycorizzae to my organic soil what rate should i apply it per gallon of dirt? For a transplant..

The last area i've had conflicting info is on the molasses.. some say 1 TSP per 5 gallon others say 2 TBSP per 5 gallon .. I've already added 2 TBSP per my 5 gallon ( using earth line ), it going to be ok, or burn things? Or is it just more or less wasting product to add that much, but won't hurt the plants. I'd hate to have to start over on my tea . smells and looks like its coming right along.. here is my recipe

5 gallon set up -
1 lb worm castings or Vermiblend
2 TBS molasses
1 TBS soy-ful
1 TBS humic acid
1 TBS Fish Hydrolysate
2 TBS Organic Soluable Seaweed
2 TBS Earth Juice Cata
2 TBS Primal Harvest Solution Guano
2 TBS Mycorrhizae (Add in the end of brewing cycle, the long term aeration will destroy teh fragile mycorrhizal Hyphae)
5 Gal of luke warm distilled or chlorine removed water

 

[CT Guy]

Read my original post and follow the ingredients from Tim Wilson regarding rates. All you want to use is molasses and worm castings. I'd ditch the rest in the tea for future brews.

Also, the myco is a waste of time and money. Apply it directly to the roots of the plant when transplanting, don't mix it throughout your soil. Just a tablespoon or two is plenty for a cutting or 4" clone.

 

[Granger2]

You won't get burn from molasses. I use 1 Tbl/gal in teas and nutes. -granger

 

[sneaky_g]

Can i apply a tea every watering if i cut the ingredients in half / per gallon? Or would you go straight water and feed them a tea every 3rd?

How do you guys do it? Assuming I have a pretty solid organic medium.. I copied Pure knowledges organic recipe and cooked it for a few months. I just gave my vegging plants a first tea and they absolutely loved it.. Would you go water for a few more rounds before giving them a tea or should i cut the ingredients volume down, and do them more periodically?

 

[CT Guy]

I think you're missing a concept with ACT. You wouldn't want to cut your original recipe, the recipe should stay the same. 1X a week would be a very high rate, 3-5 times for the life of the plant is more than sufficient in my opinion.

 

[CT Guy]

Forgot to mention that if you make it correctly you don't have to worry about over-application or burning, etc...

 

[Dawn Patrol]

1X a week would be a very high rate, 3-5 times for the life of the plant is more than sufficient in my opinion.

I have an almost year round growing environment and I've found that applying good tea about once a month seems to be about right for me.

I was doing it every two weeks, but I really didn't see any difference when I cut it back to once a month. YMMV

 

[CT Guy]

I have an almost year round growing environment and I've found that applying good tea about once a month seems to be about right for me.

I was doing it every two weeks, but I really didn't see any difference when I cut it back to once a month. YMMV

I'd agree with this. That was sort of my point. At some application level, your cost and labor to benefit ratio would go down. You may not see a big difference between 1X per week or 3X per week. Really depends on the quality of your soil mix and environmental factors.

 

[Dawn Patrol]

I'd agree with this. That was sort of my point. At some application level, your cost and labor to benefit ratio would go down. You may not see a big difference between 1X per week or 3X per week. Really depends on the quality of your soil mix and environmental factors.

You and Microbeman have made tremendous contributions to this thread and I will never stop wondering why some folks keep trying to make it harder than it really is.

 

[W89]

Hi peeps, I just started making a tea and forgot I didn't have any molasses so I added my Lacti acd bacteria I made because it was cut with 1:1 ratio of molasses do you think this will be OK and still make a good tea?

 

[W89]

per gal of rain water I added 2 cup of vermicompost homemade, 1/4 cup of the LAB, pinch of rock dust for the fungi and tea spoon of kelp granules..

 

[Granger2]

W89,
Should be OK, as long as you used enough. You can use any sugar source, including pure cane sugar from your kitchen. Also fruit juice, Agave Nectar, honey, maple syrup, Dark Barley Malt Extract pwd. or liq. from the brew store [my favorite]. Good luck. -granger

 

[W89]

ive only got the white sugar ya use for a cup of tea or coffee, this has lots of chemicals in it to make it white so probly not too good for them microbes, i'm glad you think I should be ok with my LAB I might just add couple of table spoons more in the morning just to make sure there is food I'm planning brewing for 36 hours, just mixed up some new soil so gonna give it a charge with the old ACT

 

[mexcurandero420]

Palm sugar is a very good one besides cane sugar, specially for the minerals.For the microbes white sugar will do.

Keep on growing