Tea Article

[Microbeman]

way cool MM, is the inverted scope gonna be capable of binocular vision???

Yes, I'm using an old Leitz Diavert body and installing a trinocular head on it. I'm attempting to use a 12 watt LED lamp with it and I'm installing a phase contrast condenser. The advantage will be that I can have bright light with little heat and observe microbes over an extended period in a petri dish. I'm hoping I'll be able to film hyphae growing and protozoa excysting.

 

[rrog]

Damn! I am so glad I signed up here

 

[mad librettist]

that is sweet MM.

is there any way to retrofit a brightfield scope with and LED? I do remember as a kid using a scope that had a mirror you would use to reflect light onto the slide. In terms of not affecting what you see just by looking at it, the mirror was superior to the light in my scope.

 

[Microbeman]

that is sweet MM.

is there any way to retrofit a brightfield scope with and LED? I do remember as a kid using a scope that had a mirror you would use to reflect light onto the slide. In terms of not affecting what you see just by looking at it, the mirror was superior to the light in my scope.

There is a site in the UK http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk where some friends of mine hang out. There is a lot of info in that regard. I tested the scope you have with a 3 watt LED but it was insufficient to work with the filters for the refraction/diffraction of light necessary for phase effect. That is why I'm going with 12 watts on this unit. I've been lusting after a Leica with 6 watts that costs $6K barebones. Well screw them; my scope will be better;>

 

[Bullfrog44]

just placing a small amount of compost or molasses neutralizes chlorine or chloramines.

I quoted this from another thread but my question had more relevance over here in this thread. Question is, if you are unsure if your filters are nearing the end of the life and are questionable about chlorine or chloramines being present, can you add your molasses first for your brew? Add it first and let it bubble for an hour or so. Would this help ensure no chlorine or chloramines? Would this effect your brew for any reason?

Thanks in advance.

 

[heady blunts]

that's what ii do BF. afaik it is technically neutalizing or "tying up" the chlorine/chloramine.

 

[Microbeman]

Yes adding a bit of molasses (say 15 to 30 ml in 50 gal) will neutralize Chl. and will not negatively impact the brew. Ascorbic acid works too.

 

[jaykush]

you don't need to let it bubble for an hour. waste of electricity/time. any neutralizing is going to happen pretty rapidly.

 

[mad librettist]

indeed think of how fast bleach stains a dark shirt.

Cl is highly reactive

 

[heady blunts]

true i just add the molasses first, then take my time getting the other ingredients together. usually elapsed time is <10 mins.

 

[CT Guy]

Yes, I'm using an old Leitz Diavert body and installing a trinocular head on it. I'm attempting to use a 12 watt LED lamp with it and I'm installing a phase contrast condenser. The advantage will be that I can have bright light with little heat and observe microbes over an extended period in a petri dish. I'm hoping I'll be able to film hyphae growing and protozoa excysting.

That's awesome! Can't wait to see those images....

 

[Bullfrog44]

Thanks for the response guys. I will be adding my molasses first from now on.

 

[moses wellfleet]

i have been feeding ct only for a couple months now with great results... i recently measured the co2 content in my room and it is often as high as 600ppm is it possible that the increased microbial activity is responsible for the co2?... i have not enriched the air with co2 from any other source so it is the only possible explanation!

 

[Bullfrog44]

Hey guys, I noticed in another thread you guys are talking about running your teas for 36 to 48 hours. I thought the correct time was around 24 hours. Should I be running my teas longer? I know that the only true way to tell is a scope, but I am working on that. Any info would be great.

 

[rrog]

From MM : "If you brew for around 36 hours using quality (vermi)compost you should have protozoa (flagellates and/or naked amoebae) in about 36 hours of brewing. They are indeed key in providing bioavailable nutrients to the roots. They consume bacteria and archaea using only 30 to 40 percent of the energy for sustenance and expel the other 60 to 70% as ionic form nutrient. Most commonly it is nitrogen derived but apparently other macronutrients and micronutrients are made available in this manner. Bacterial feeding nematodes provide ionic form nutrients in similar fashion but nematodes are not multiplied in compost tea.

For further investigation good names to google are Marianne Clarholm, Michael Bonkowski and Bryan Griffiths."

 

[Bullfrog44]

Great answer rrog, thank you.

 

[rrog]

We gotta thank The MM

 

[Microbeman]

Often a tea will have sufficient numbers of flagellates at 24 hrs but more commonly the begin serious division at 30 hours. This varies from brewer to brewer and depends
(vermi)compost used. To be on the safe side for those without microscopes I usually recommend 36 hours if one is trying to garner a higher protozoa count.

Mad; At what point in your brews are you seeing 3 to 4+ flagellates in every 20X field of view?

 

[Bullfrog44]

Another fantastic answer, thank you MM!

 

[CT Guy]

i have been feeding ct only for a couple months now with great results... i recently measured the co2 content in my room and it is often as high as 600ppm is it possible that the increased microbial activity is responsible for the co2?... i have not enriched the air with co2 from any other source so it is the only possible explanation!

I did have a lady tell me that her CO2 monitor in her house kept going off when she brewed the tea near the monitor in her basement. I don't have any proof that's what was going on, but it makes some sense....