Tea Article

[Dab Strudel]

Recently read an interesting technique in a composting book. Nothing new, surely, but it was interesting and spawned a few ideas and questions.

The book explained, how you can pull out a clover plant or maybe even a sprout (wasn't to clear about that), then place it in a sealed bag with an amount of soil to inoculate the soil with nitrogen fixing bacteria. Then use the soil where you want to add the bacteria.

I am assuming the bacteria grows on or in the clover/legume, so by putting it in a sealed moist bag of soil, the bacteria multiplies.

The question begins... would this simple technique work in compost tea. If so, would it be so simple as pulling up a piece of clover and tossing it in the brewer? Would you need to scale up the amount of clover to the size of the brew, or would even a little add some diversity?

Since you guys were talking about pre charging the worm castings, curious if you could just throw a couple clover sprouts in with the castings/bran/molasses and get more nitrogen fixing bacteria than without.

Thanks,
Mr^^

PLease forgive my sincerely noobish take on your statement, but wouldnt it work if you used it in a cover crop/interplanting manor (not sure if I have terms down proper), this way when the plants over grow the legumes, the legumes will lay down and decompose

 

[ValleyKush]

This round I decided to try out pure coco with chunks and feed with vegan teas! At first I was watering too little but once I started keeping the pots a little more moist the microorganisms exploded! Never have had so much visable growth on peat.

Remember there is no perlite in there
Is this common? Either way, very happy plants

 

[The Revolution]

I am just getting back into making and using AACT. I used to use an array of smaller aquarium pumps with airstones in a 5 gallon bucket, with good results. I recently picked up a cpl sumbersible pond pumps, and have starting making teas again. I just put the pond pump into the bottom of the bucket with the jet spurting up the middle. It raises a few inches above the surface and splashing back down. Is this ideal? Or should I find a way to create more oxygen bubbles in the water?
I was getting better results with my smaller pumps and airstones than I seem to be getting now? Is there a way I should modify these pumps for better results?

 

[xmobotx]

the impeller in an impeller pump kills micro-organisms

 

[The Revolution]

I thought I remembered reading at microboorganics that it didnt harm microbes ???
I just picked up a couple submersible pumps, for ponds/waterfalls.. Is there anyway I can use these for aact brewer?

 

[Thcvhunter]

This round I decided to try out pure coco with chunks and feed with vegan teas! At first I was watering too little but once I started keeping the pots a little more moist the microorganisms exploded! Never have had so much visable growth on peat.
View Image
Remember there is no perlite in there
Is this common? Either way, very happy plants

Inductive reasoning tells me that while a pure coco substrate may work for huge biology numbers tgat it may not provide enough fresh air exchange for roots and will require appropriate aeration levels for a growing plant to thrive in.

 

[Microbeman]

I am just getting back into making and using AACT. I used to use an array of smaller aquarium pumps with airstones in a 5 gallon bucket, with good results. I recently picked up a cpl sumbersible pond pumps, and have starting making teas again. I just put the pond pump into the bottom of the bucket with the jet spurting up the middle. It raises a few inches above the surface and splashing back down. Is this ideal? Or should I find a way to create more oxygen bubbles in the water?
I was getting better results with my smaller pumps and airstones than I seem to be getting now? Is there a way I should modify these pumps for better results?

http://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_You_Wanna_Build_A_Compost_Tea_Brewer

2/ The Venturi Method: If you only have a water pump and wish to make a compost tea brewer you can inject air into the water by using a venturi. I have provided a sketch and text showing how to make your own or you can purchase them from http://www.aquaticeco.com . Basically the venturi creates a vacuum which interfaces with the water as it passes by, sucking air and mixing it with the water. It is quite an efficient method of oxygenating water. If you have a really tough water pump which does not clog, like a trash pump, you may run this type of brewer without a mesh extractor bag. Most are going to want to use a mesh extractor, so I recommend TEEing your water line downstream from the venturi with one return line suspended above the water and the other return line going into the mesh extractor. Undoubtedly you will require a valve to regulate the flow so all of the water does not just take the easiest route to the pipe suspended over the water. To build a CT brewer beyond the stir method, some basic knowledge of fitting plumbing parts and pipes together is essential, as well as some engineering instincts. If you are not up for this just save yourself the aggravation and buy a brewer. You may use your imagination for a mesh extractor. For a small brewer of 100 gallons or less, 400 microns is an ideal mesh size. Sometimes for large brewers which may run for several days to establish a functional nutrient cycling consortia a larger mesh size like 800 µm may be a better choice. This is because, as noted above, the mesh may clog up a little over time. A friend of mine successfully brewed CT using this method in a 5000 gallon brewer for many years. He used 2, barrel sized mesh extractor bags sewn from landscape cloth. He ran a return line into each bag, which was ¾ full of compost and tied off each bag tightly around the pipe so nothing could get out the top. These were dropped into the water (with his tractor) and 2 other return pipes pumped in oxygenated water. You can use your imagination to create mesh extractors, dependent on the size of your brewer, the materials at hand and what works for you. You can even create a basket which is partially above the surface to prevent particulate escape. These systems are not great for extracting and growing fungal hyphae but they produce bacteria/archaea and protozoa just fine.

http://www.microbeorganics.com/#Does_Microbial_Life_Survive_Impeller_Pumps

 

[The Revolution]

Microbeman, thanks for the direction, Ive been refreshing myself on this website the last cpl days. Im trying to decide which brewer is best for me. Would you recommend the Venturi style for the pond pumps? Im confused by the sketches on the site, and I searched til early morning and again today, for directions for building a venturi or vortex brewer. Is the vortex brewer made using the submersible pond water pump? Can u give me some tips where to start digging?

I tried a brew using the submersible pump centered in the btm of a 5gallon bucket, aiming upwards. It created a little stream of water up the middle and a cpl inches outta the top of the bucket. I didnt get any noticeable results from this tea. Today I picked up (2) 30 gallon aquarium pumps and a fist full of different air stones. I put it together this morning and havea tea brewing now. I used to get excellent results using these pumps w airstones. I read many times this isnt adequate and wont get the results youd get from an airlift or other style brewer, but I remember being blown away with my previous results, and always wondered how much better it could possible get.

I picked up more pond/waterfall pumps the otherday.. Id like to put them to use. Im just having trouble figuring out what style brewer utilizes these types of water pumps.

 

[LyryC]

I used to think i brewed good teas till i found this thread.

I used to think i brewed good teas till i found this thread.

So are we still using Molasses?

I'm going to do a 20 gallon brew.

What are some thoughts on this recipe brew masters?

I could use help with portions. Balance is key.

20 gallon dechlorinated tap.

In the water:

1 tbsp Molasses per gallon - 300 ml total
1 scoop of Great White per 5 Gallons
1 tsp per gallon of OGBIOWAR Roots
1 tsp per gallon of OGBIOWAR Foliar

In the Bag:
1/4c EWC per gallon - 5 cups
1/4c Dr. Earth Compost per Gallon - 5 cups
1 tbsp Alfalfa Meal per gallon - 10oz / 1.25 cups
1 tbsp Ancient Forest Alaskan Humus per gallon - 10oz / 1.25 cups
1 tsp Kelp Meal per gallon - 3.33oz / 0.41 cups



I followed OG BIO Wars instructions for brewing.

Do i still want to PH the water after adding the molasses? they say 6.5-7.0???

Do i have the items properly placed, in the bag vs in the water?

How long is best? 2 days? 1 day?

Thank you, I appreciate your time and help, Much gratitude.

 

[mojave green]

Without a scope, you're really just guessing.

 

[Microbeman]

So are we still using Molasses?

I'm going to do a 20 gallon brew.

What are some thoughts on this recipe brew masters?

I could use help with portions. Balance is key.

20 gallon dechlorinated tap.

In the water:

1 tbsp Molasses per gallon - 300 ml total
1 scoop of Great White per 5 Gallons
1 tsp per gallon of OGBIOWAR Roots
1 tsp per gallon of OGBIOWAR Foliar

In the Bag:
1/4c EWC per gallon - 5 cups
1/4c Dr. Earth Compost per Gallon - 5 cups
1 tbsp Alfalfa Meal per gallon - 10oz / 1.25 cups
1 tbsp Ancient Forest Alaskan Humus per gallon - 10oz / 1.25 cups
1 tsp Kelp Meal per gallon - 3.33oz / 0.41 cups



I followed OG BIO Wars instructions for brewing.

Do i still want to PH the water after adding the molasses? they say 6.5-7.0???

Do i have the items properly placed, in the bag vs in the water?

How long is best? 2 days? 1 day?

Thank you, I appreciate your time and help, Much gratitude.

I just use molasses and vermicompost most of the time.

If using OGbiowar, etc. you may wish to read this thread
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=328247

 

[LyryC]

I just use molasses and vermicompost most of the time.

If using OGbiowar, etc. you may wish to read this thread
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=328247

wow, thank you so freakin much, og tea and og bio war bunk!?!?!

DR EARTH FTW!!!

Thank you for sharing that.

Do i still want to PH the water after adding the molasses? they say 6.5-7.0???

Do i have the items properly placed, in the bag vs in the water?

How long is best? 2 days? 1 day?

 

[Microbeman]

wow, thank you so freakin much, og tea and og bio war bunk!?!?!

DR EARTH FTW!!!

Thank you for sharing that.

Do i still want to PH the water after adding the molasses? they say 6.5-7.0???

Do i have the items properly placed, in the bag vs in the water?

How long is best? 2 days? 1 day?

There is no need to pH the water. You can find a lot of information about correct/recommended tea making in this thread. Also if you google Microbe Organics there are some useful articles there.

 

[Granger2]

ODA only tested for 3 species. They didn't say where they obtained them, if they were expired or what. If they were obtained from hydro stores, there's no telling how old they were and what conditions they were stored in.

You can say what you will, but I've tried every organic control for Root Aphids that I could find. Using OGBioWar Foliar and Root saved my ass. Haven't seen an RA for at least 2 years. That's all I use now. I don't brew it. Just mix and drench according to directions of Root and Foliar. OGBW, if fresh, is absolutely NOT bullshit.

The only RA measure I use is OGBW, but I also use a simple EWC ACT weekly. I use a variety of inoculants to make my teas. 3 different EWC's, Ancient forest, a good local compost, my 35 year old compost, etc. I use Earth Juice nute line, inoculated and brewed till the pH is where I want it. -granger

 

[Microbeman]

ODA only tested for 3 species. They didn't say where they obtained them, if they were expired or what. If they were obtained from hydro stores, there's no telling how old they were and what conditions they were stored in.

You can say what you will, but I've tried every organic control for Root Aphids that I could find. Using OGBioWar Foliar and Root saved my ass. Haven't seen an RA for at least 2 years. That's all I use now. I don't brew it. Just mix and drench according to directions of Root and Foliar. OGBW, if fresh, is absolutely NOT bullshit.

The only RA measure I use is OGBW, but I also use a simple EWC ACT weekly. I use a variety of inoculants to make my teas. 3 different EWC's, Ancient forest, a good local compost, my 35 year old compost, etc. I use Earth Juice nute line, inoculated and brewed till the pH is where I want it. -granger

There seem to be varying ingredients from different vintages but the tests were for microbes and not pesticides. One mix I did see (if the ingredients are correct) included BTI & Spinosad so this would likely account for your results. Please remember to not use it outdoors if it does contain Spinosad. It is deadly to bees.

 

[Granger2]

Neither Spinosad nor BTi have any effect on RA's when used alone. OGBW also contains the 2 fungi that are in Botanigard and Met 52. These are more likely to be what's doing the job. Mine is an indoor grow. -granger

 

[LyryC]

There is no need to pH the water. You can find a lot of information about correct/recommended tea making in this thread. Also if you google Microbe Organics there are some useful articles there.

Yeah im sure if i had no grows, and the patience to read thru this ridiculously long thread half full of nonsense id answer my own questions.

thx

 

[Phenome]

Yeah im sure if i had no grows, and the patience to read thru this ridiculously long thread half full of nonsense id answer my own questions.

thx

That is why he recommended microbe organics also......
Very simple site to learn the basics, without having to sift through nonsense......

 

[LyryC]

printed it out, thanks gents

 

[Microbeman]

Neither Spinosad nor BTi have any effect on RA's when used alone. OGBW also contains the 2 fungi that are in Botanigard and Met 52. These are more likely to be what's doing the job. Mine is an indoor grow. -granger

Right.