Tamil Nadu area ; any tips?

[Rosy Cheeks]

The diff. between cities and villages is that a villager never harasses another person for charity. That's demeaning one's own worth. And in reality tho, panhandling is a profession in India's citys. An alarmingly high number of "beggars" have enough money to engage in private money lending. I've caught some redhanded this way.

A poor villager is prolly a lot worse off than the "beggars" of the cities, yet a poor villager never begs. They even offer you food and hospitality, and in return, people would be very happy to reciprocate.

I concur, and to put things in context, there are more beggars here on the streets of Paris than there are in Bombay, although not at all the same poverty. It tells you something about different types of mentality.

You really need a motorbike on u to get the most out of your trip to India, if you know what I mean. You can't really expect the best to get door delivered to you

That's basically what I do when I go on vacation in a foreign country. I buy a cheap second hand motorcycle and do the country in my own pace and liking.
In India though, you need to be a damn good driver, because the roads are not forgiving.

I was cross-country driving on an Enfield in Tamil Nadu when the rain set in. The road just turned to mud, and at one point, I couldn't keep the bike on the road, it slid down into a deep ditch and got stuck. No way of getting it out on my own. I sat there on the road until a brand new four wheel drive came by. Inside, there were two Germans on a "hiking tour". I asked them to tow my bike out of the ditch, but they claimed they didn't have a tow line in their car (funny, they were equipped to their teeth with just about anything, but they didn't have a tow line, which is THE thing you need if you're in trouble), so they said they would drive into the nearest village and borrow one.
They came back after a while, but guess what? They didn't bring a tow line, they brought four villagers, so these guys and I dragged my bike out of the ditch, in knee-deep mud and pouring rain, while the Germans sat in their car watching. F.....g A..holes!

 

[naga_sadu]

I concur, and to put things in context, there are more beggars here on the streets of Paris than there are in Bombay, although not at all the same poverty. It tells you something about different types of mentality.

India is a strange place indeed, as in the level of begging doesn't necessarily tell the tale about the face of poverty in the country. Panhandling in India has become a profession and a business, which is very profitable. Not all people who beg do it for a business, some genuinely are desperate, but A LOT do it for making easy money, which is pretty unfortunate. Panhandling groups in the bigger citys, especially tourist destinations band themselfs into gangs.

In Mumbai even, some "beggars" have afforded their own brand new motorbikes. The ones in true poverty in India are the agrarian populations, but it's rare to see a villager begging to outsiders for $$$. Even w/ their current levels of poverty, almost all agrarians will offer the tourist some tea and meals and yet ask for nothing in return.

In India though, you need to be a damn good driver, because the roads are not forgiving.

If you can call them...roads, that is.

They came back after a while, but guess what? They didn't bring a tow line, they brought four villagers, so these guys and I dragged my bike out of the ditch, in knee-deep mud and pouring rain, while the Germans sat in their car watching. F.....g A..holes!

Softies...

No matter what country people come from, domestic or foreign, I just hate it when they wuss out, especially when they claim they're on a hiking tour and get by on 4*4s. It's like experiencing the jungle by "camping out" in a 5 star luxury hotel.

Helping out a stranded fellow traveller is the most important unwritten rule of backpacking.

I wonder what Kovalam looks like now, was there in '86 and it was pretty busy then.

The real estate has skyrocketed. The resorts are WAY expensive man, some even run for 8000 Rupees a night. This was something unthought of back in the 80s and even in the 90s. There are lotsa high end real estate coming about especially dacha communities.

And there's an IT park in Trivandrum as of late and lots of job work units in the IT sector. This will obviously push the price levels in Kovalam upwards. There are lotsa "developments" going on, but they are only catered towards the exclusive elements of society. The quality of the town centre, public services, baazars, public infra (roads etc) remain pretty much unchanged since the 80s.

But again...I'm not the right guy to ask regarding a city. I prolly hate them as much as Pol Pot & the Khmer Rouge.

 

[Flynnie]

Pity to hear it's become so commercialised but no surprise as it's a lovely spot. Remind me what those Jawa bikes are called over there, I live in Czech, you see! I used to love seeing the whole family out on the bike, mum riding sidesaddle and all of them oblivious of the dangers of driving!

 

[naga_sadu]

Flynnie,

Jawas are simply called Jawas. No local names. You can find LOTS of Jawas in places such as Madurai, Trichnapalli, Salem etc. If you're familiar w/ Russian era bikes, you can even snag a 2 stroke Minsk, though they're not as popular here as they are in Vietnam. But the Eastern vehicles in India aren't as advertised as their Western / local counterparts. But they're around, just ask a bike mechanic or a reputable 2nd hand bike broker if u want 1.

In places like Madurai, Trichnapalli, Salem etc., you can even snag a good ol' Triumph bikes too, if you're into that. And BTW: FOr automobile mod jobs in general, Trichnapally and Salem are world class. The mechanic sheds look very bare, but these guys have skills!! If you're an automobile fan, you should check out these places as well.

Pity to hear it's become so commercialised but no surprise as it's a lovely spot.

Two state governments are always locked in rivalry for control over Kerela: The LDF (Left democratic front) headed by the CPIM-L and the UDF (United Democratic Front) headed by the COngress-I. To make a long story short, smoking enthusiasts (at least local ones) tend to prefer LDF style rule.

Not all state governments endorse rampant commercialisation, that's the legacy of the UDF. Under LDF rule, FDI and corporate investment into the tourist sector was largely controlled and whenever the UDF comes to power, they tend to undo those strict controls. Which is pretty fucked up...

 

[Flynnie]

I could have sworn they were called something different, Baja or something like that.

 

[naga_sadu]

I could have sworn they were called something different, Baja or something like that.

They've been called Jawas as long as I can recall. The Minsk is called baaz by some people. ANd the Royal Enfield is called a Bullet. Are you referring to Bajaj? They're a local company and have no relation to Jawa. FOr a limited time, unless I'm mistaken, Bajaj did undertake the sale of Jawas under the 49:51 rule, when it was still in effect.

 

[Flynnie]

Bajaj, that's it! I thought they were Jawas, maybe in the '80's they were?
LOved the sound of the Bullet, what does a good second-hand one cost?

 

[naga_sadu]

Bajaj, that's it! I thought they were Jawas, maybe in the '80's they were?

For a very brief time, the sales aspects of Jawas was handled by Bajaj, unless I'm mistaken. But that was long before the 80s. In the 80s, Bajaj was tied up w/ Kawasaki.

LOved the sound of the Bullet, what does a good second-hand one cost?

I'm assuming you want a petrol powered 350cc. That's the most common bullet floating around. A good 2nd hand 350cc Bullet in Tamil Nadu should cost you about 15,000- 30,000 Rupees, depending on the age of the bike and the mod job done on it. Don't even bother w/ a bike costing below 15,000 Rupees...!!

But the prob w/ Bullet is travelling in it thru hill stations and thru forest roads at late evening/ night. Most sandalwood smugglers negociating these types of terrain often prefer the Bullet as their #1 choice (due to its sturdiness and durability). So, a biker on a bullet is much more likely to get stopped by the forest personnel than a biker on any other bike.

During my travels in the Ghats, Bullet bikers are looked upon alot more suspiciously, and the only riders who forest personnel have halted and searched the vehicles were driving bullets.

Hey- speaking of cars, do u know the Hindustan Contessa??

 

[Flynnie]

What about modern off-road bikes, a 250 perhaps, can you get them there?

Don't remember the Contessa, just the Ambassador, that other one plus the new license-made Suzuki

 

[naga_sadu]

What about modern off-road bikes, a 250 perhaps, can you get them there?

The new Bajaj Pulsar 180cc DTSi is pretty neat, for a modern bike. They got a 150cc also. Has both electric as well as manual kick start. It handles hills pretty decently, don't choke on the upward climb (as Hero Hondas and Yamahas sold in India do). The suspension level is for sure a league below the bullet, but it handles crap roads surprisingly good. And you get A LOT better milage than the bullet- say 50 kmpl over 30-35 kmpl (bullet).

And to answer your question directly, no, there isin't a practical modern bike u can use in the 250cc range. Most either fall in the 100, 125 cc range. Even 150cc bikes are not too popular. Most bikes in India are designed w/ the city/ town commuter in mind. And the FIRST priority of Indian bikes is fuel consumption. And most roads in Indian towns and cities are plagued w/ traffic jams.

 

[Flynnie]

I suppose as traffic isn't too fast on the main roads a 125 would do, but crossing the country on one would not be too comfy! Plus you'd have to travel light, and survive those murderous trucks. I remember travelling by bus from Lahore to Rawalpindi, we were overtaking an already overtaking bus and the same was happening in the opposite direction, I just shut my eyes, and the next bus trip I sat at the back!

 

[naga_sadu]

I suppose as traffic isn't too fast on the main roads a 125 would do, but crossing the country on one would not be too comfy!

People here usually go cross country using the railways. It's dirt cheap, unless you book A/C compartments.

and survive those murderous trucks.

Most truck drivers drive drunk, especially at night.

I remember travelling by bus from Lahore to Rawalpindi, we were overtaking an already overtaking bus and the same was happening in the opposite direction, I just shut my eyes, and the next bus trip I sat at the back!

I take it you haven't hanged off the side rails of the bus while commuting yet That's THE roller coaster ride...for dirt cheap!

 

[Flynnie]

Never got to hang off the sides but rode on the top of one with 30 other people when we realised there were no seats inside, just frames, plus it coming down the mountains, nice and top heavy, accident waiting to happen.
Tell me, I suppose it's still impossible for foreigners to own property there? Would love to retire there when I'm old, checked out some real estate agents down south, land wasn't as cheap as I expected.

 

[naga_sadu]

Tell me, I suppose it's still impossible for foreigners to own property there? Would love to retire there when I'm old, checked out some real estate agents down south, land wasn't as cheap as I expected.

As far as foreigners owning land, there is a new provision under the FDI (Foreign direct investment) initiatives, that permit this but the amounts that are talked about is prolly beyond the reach of most individuals. Many also make their home here by opening up a joint venture (usually a factory or a department store) w/ a local counterpart, but this too is kinda expensive.

However, the most preferred route for a Westerner w/o a deep wallet is to come down here and marry into a local family in the villages + staying on indifinitely. This route used to be ok and safe back in the 70s and 80s, but now, there's lotsa fraud going on, where the local fraudster would FUCK OVER the Westerner hardcore, thus making this a risky and dangerous proposition.

Neighbouring countries like Sri Lanka and Nepal are much more friendly and straight forward as far as foreigners owning land is concerned. DOn't forget- India was a Socialist country and most of its laws are still byproducts of the Socialist system.

 

[Flynnie]

Oh well, it'll have to be long-term renting,a few acres near Madikeri, grow some nice pure sativas. Thanks for all the info Naga. Checked out that new Bajaj, pretty snazzy looking1

 

[naga_sadu]

Oh well, it'll have to be long-term renting,a few acres near Madikeri, grow some nice pure sativas. Thanks for all the info Naga. Checked out that new Bajaj, pretty snazzy looking1

Yes. Madikeri is a great spot for now, but keep a keen eye in the future. Considering the proximity to Mysore, it's prone to commercialisation. Do take into account that in Mysore to the east, the entire IT industry in B'lore is spilling over. Once you start endorsing mainstream tourism, the mmj scene, for some odd reason ends up going to hell.

The places I recommend are usually those that aren't accessible by 4 wheelers. You know those places are safe from rampant commercialisation.

And speaking of bikes, are you familiar w/ MMC (Mumbai Motorcycle Company)? They do custom jobs on Bullet bikes. They look pretty sleak...

Here's a link:

http://www.bsmotoring.com/bsm/wcms/...l;jsessionid=F5A046F752B418F4879C597E61E11FB6

 

[Flynnie]

It'd be a great pity for me to return there to find it commercialised, but I don't know if I really want to live somewhere really hard to get to.
Searched for MMC but couldn't find any pics, saw a price of 3.5 lakh rupees mentioned, pretty steep.
Ah, just saw the link, not my style I'm afraid, got a large V-Twin sports, which would be pure hell to ride in India!

 

[naga_sadu]

It'd be a great pity for me to return there to find it commercialised, but I don't know if I really want to live somewhere really hard to get to.
Searched for MMC but couldn't find any pics, saw a price of 3.5 lakh rupees mentioned, pretty steep.
Ah, just saw the link, not my style I'm afraid, got a large V-Twin sports, which would be pure hell to ride in India!

Different styles, I guess...but the tradeoff is, if you live in a isolated spot, then you won't have to deal w/ any of the bs that comes w/ rampant urbanisation. But again, you're far off from civilisation.

But yea, sports bikes & cars don't really do too well locally. They're more of a "cult" following here. For one, the roads are horrible. The suspension in most modern sports bikes and cars are softer- more inclined towards finer handling (ex: better turning etc) rather than harder- which makes it more suitable for handling crap roads. Even in cars, an "all in one" Benz suspension system handles quite well on crap roads but the suspension system fails pretty fucking often. Your better off w/ local or East EUro designs. Or you'll be spending shitload on maintanance otherwise.

 

[AYA]

Great info guys! Thanks for your contributions!
I think i'm gonna wait a wee bit before i get the bike ; i need to evaluate the road situation first and compute wether the risk is worth it!
I'm sure in the end it'll be worth it though!!!

I'm landing in Chennai on the 22nd of january via Kuweit Airlines at 5am, i'm trying to figure out the fastest way to get out of the city because i totally share your opinion naga ; cities suck! Plus i'm going to india for the countryside anyways...
I was thinking of getting out of the airport (great idea hey? ) grab a rickshaw to the central bus station and hop on the first bus headed for Mamallapuram (sp?) 50kms south.
I'm looking for a chilled-out small village where i can spend 5 or 7 days in order to acclimate my mind&body to the indian weather and atmosphere ; any other suggestions?

It would have to be more or less between Chennai and Pondicherry since after that i'll be settling in Auroville for some time (1-2 months volunteer-ship then on the roads for a month with a friend when he flies in around march in search of great herb then back to Auroville for a month +/- then the swimming trip wherever's the best swimming spot until the end of my visa in july)

Apart from that have you guys been to Andaman&Nicobar? I'd love to spend some quality swimming time and it seems quite clear that the continental eastern coast is not really a swimmer's paradise...So i was thinking why not spend 3 or 4 weeks on the Islands so that i can swim&snorkle till i drop...Any stellar spots for swimming in south india?


One last thing naga, since you live in Kerala i suppose you might be able to help me on that one ; i'm not really into vaccines because some can be very nasty to your body so i'm trying to have as little as possible. Would you have an idea of those that can't be left behind? 2 separare doctors here said rabbies, hepathitis (sp?) A & B, japanese encephalitis, thyphoid flue, yellow flue.
Plus the usual malaria pills which i won't be taking anyway since i have neither the budget nor the desire to.

Have a great weekend!

aya

 

[naga_sadu]

I think i'm gonna wait a wee bit before i get the bike ; i need to evaluate the road situation first and compute wether the risk is worth it!
I'm sure in the end it'll be worth it though!!!

Without a bike, you'll mostly have to rely on commercial quality crap which floods the marketplace. It is...crap. So, a bike will surely be worth it. Just get some experience under ur belt by driving off road.

I was thinking of getting out of the airport (great idea hey? ) grab a rickshaw to the central bus station and hop on the first bus headed for Mamallapuram (sp?) 50kms south.
I'm looking for a chilled-out small village where i can spend 5 or 7 days in order to acclimate my mind&body to the indian weather and atmosphere ; any other suggestions?

Mahaballiburam is more or less a bit dry nowadays, and even if it's not, you'll be hard pressed to find anything decent. I already have a mental image of the types of spots you have in mind, and they'll only be there in the Ghat sections. The native sativas that grow up in the Ghats are top notch.

And watch out during monsoon seasons- the quality you find around will prolly be below par during this time period (Sep-Mid Nov). Mahaballiburam today is very much a commercialised mainstream kinda tourist spot. It's a great place to have a honeymoon or go as a group of friends, but for smoking, it ain't your most ideal spot at all.

It would have to be more or less between Chennai and Pondicherry since after that i'll be settling in Auroville for some time (1-2 months volunteer-ship then on the roads for a month with a friend when he flies in around march in search of great herb then back to Auroville for a month +/- then the swimming trip wherever's the best swimming spot until the end of my visa in july)

If you want great herbs, you need to go to the Ghat sections, staying in towns and citys will leave u dissapointed. Sure, you'll score buds but the quality will be garbage. And when you do score, make sure to say that you aren't interested in "Erandu chakkai" - the commercial quality bullshit.

You can easily say the commercial quality bs by the looks. The aroma is almost non existant, and the buds take on a very darkish green texture. It's filled w/ stems and powders up very easily. it gives great consumption- as in for a "pottalam (rolled up on a newspaper)" you will be able to get about 8-10 cig sized Js. But it's crappy tasting + very crappy high.

Apart from that have you guys been to Andaman&Nicobar? I'd love to spend some quality swimming time and it seems quite clear that the continental eastern coast is not really a swimmer's paradise...So i was thinking why not spend 3 or 4 weeks on the Islands so that i can swim&snorkle till i drop...Any stellar spots for swimming in south india?

If you're into sea swimming, you should go to Kanyakumari. Not the main beach itself, but the other ones such as Manakkudi and Chottavalai. Those 2 beaches are pretty nice for swimming. Clean water. Limited population (except for weekends) and great scenery all 'round...

I've been to Andaman but that was too long ago.

One last thing naga, since you live in Kerala i suppose you might be able to help me on that one ; i'm not really into vaccines because some can be very nasty to your body so i'm trying to have as little as possible. Would you have an idea of those that can't be left behind? 2 separare doctors here said rabbies, hepathitis (sp?) A & B, japanese encephalitis, thyphoid flue, yellow flue.
Plus the usual malaria pills which i won't be taking anyway since i have neither the budget nor the desire to.

You'd be better off asking this to another tourist...