Take a look

[ubet28]

Well this is really pissing me off that i can not figure out whats causing this. I am in the last week of flowering but if at all possible would like to no for the next time what is wrong i think its a K problem or magnesium but not sure and i have added magical at 10 ml per gallon I am not going to go in into details beings i am just ignoring the problem now since i am going to be cutting her down soon. This did start out on the fan leaves and the slowly progressed to the whole plant which leads to mg problem. So any help greatly appreciated or advice.

 

[Levitikuz]

Im no expert myself but some of those leaves look like nute burn to me...

 

[ubet28]

I kinda thought that myself so i flushed the whole system with final phase for 24 hours and it just seems to get worse. I am lost i hope someone can tell me whats wrong and be at least 95% sure. after looking at the trichs again i think i have 2 weeks so i should probably address this problem

 

[AlaskaGrows]

wow thats bad, after looking through the sick plants guide i would have to agree with you on the mag deficiency. this is what mynameisstich says.


Manganese (Mn) Micronutrient and Immobile Element


Manganese Helps enzymes break down for chlorophyll and photosynthesis production, as well as it works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins.

Having plants that are deficient in manganese can turn the young leaves into spotted (mottled) yellow and or brown areas on young leaves. Dead (Necrotic) yellow spots form on top leaves, while the lower older leaves will or may have gray specks and or spots. Symptoms can include yellowing of leaves while the leaf veins can stay green. Can also produce a chequered effect. As the plant gets newer growths the plant will seem to grow away from the problem, that’s why the younger leaves may be unaffected. On the top of the leaves, brown spots can appear. While the severe areas of the leaves turn brown and wither. Parts Affected by a Manganese deficiency are: Young leaves.


Too much Manganese in the soil will cause an iron deficiency. The blotchy leaf tissue is caused by not enough chlorophyll synthesis. Your plants will seem to have very weak vigor caused by the excessive amount of manganese.

Problems with Manganese being locked out by PH troubles

Soil ph of over 6.5, High iron soils, Low nitrogen Soils, Dry weather
and compacted soil.


Soil

Manganese gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0
Manganese is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.5-6.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Manganese Deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Manganese gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-4.5
Manganese is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-5.6 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a manganese deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Manganese deficiency
Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn., or mix with water and water your plants with it. Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Manganese in them will fix a Manganese deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have Manganese in them are: Manganese chelate, Manganese carbonate, Manganese chloride, Manganese dioxide, Manganese oxide, Manganese sulfate, which are all fast absorption. Garden Manure, Greenssand are both good sources of manganese and are medium/ slow absorption.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Picture 1 shows a manganese deficiency in flowering.

AG

 

[Levitikuz]

It just looks like your leaves are very very shinny like almost a plastic look to em...and i really think they got a really big overdose of nutes, and this late in flowering its just cant be reversed...
and you also see how the tips of ur leaves are brown and curling also?
Ive seen mag. def before and ive never seen the leaves turn that plastic look before.

So i would say you burnt them and i would just flush from here on out anyways since you got 2 weeks left...but hey maybe you didnt, but i REALLY think you did, because thats exactly what one of my ladies looked like expcept not as extreme when i burnt her in flower, i think i have a pic....
damnit i dont have the pic, but i hope you figure out the problem and i hope it doesnt happen to you again!

 

[ubet28]

It just looks like your leaves are very very shinny like almost a plastic look to em...and i really think they got a really big overdose of nutes, and this late in flowering its just cant be reversed...
and you also see how the tips of ur leaves are brown and curling also?
Ive seen mag. def before and ive never seen the leaves turn that plastic look before.

So i would say you burnt them and i would just flush from here on out anyways since you got 2 weeks left...but hey maybe you didnt, but i REALLY think you did, because thats exactly what one of my ladies looked like expcept not as extreme when i burnt her in flower, i think i have a pic....
damnit i dont have the pic, but i hope you figure out the problem and i hope it doesnt happen to you again!

That shiny look is cause i had just sprayed them with pH R/0 water. I am lost cause part of me thinks its nute burn and part of me thinks its a mg def. I wish i could get some one to tell me for sure. But just like you said nothing i can do now if its burn and a mg def. really isn't gonna effect me now either.

 

[scegy]

hm dude, what about if you tell us what is ur pH(how much it drifts also),
what kind of hydrp system do you run(including what medium),
your EC/ppm
water temp,
ambiental temp,
water source,
root condition and which nutrients do you use

we can help more after these infos for the next time, you can't do much for these 2 weeks besides flusing as said

 

[ubet28]

hm dude, what about if you tell us what is ur pH(how much it drifts also),
what kind of hydrp system do you run(including what medium),
your EC/ppm
water temp,
ambiental temp,
water source,
root condition and which nutrients do you use

we can help more after these infos for the next time, you can't do much for these 2 weeks besides flusing as said

The water is R/O pH after all the nutes 5.5 drift .2 a day. In water farms buckets with hydro-ton. PPM's just bases 700 then with additives 1100. Water temp 64 with chiller room temp at night 68 with a RH of 62% day temps 80 to 85 with RH of 50% Co2 ppm of 900. roots look good had a case of mild slime 2 weeks ago but dropped the carbo load and super thrive.

Nutrients are AN sensi a+b, cal-mag,organic b, scorpion juice every couple of weeks, sweet, 3 weeks of big bud, 2 weeks of overdrive, zone, foil er with penatrator and sweet mix. I was using carbo load and superthrive but i don't anymore.

 

[germankid6]

Looks like nute burn mixed with heat stress. If you're in the final week, why not go str8 water. Yellowing of the leaves during the final weeks is natural. I definately wouldn't be feeding so much, so late. You might taste it.

"That shiny look is cause i had just sprayed them with pH R/0 water."

Try to mist with a very fine mist. Those big drops of water, that I see, act like tiny magnifying glasses and can cause the leaves to burn. This will look like nute burn/def too. Mist before the lights get going good or at the beginning of the dark is best.
Hope all works out good.

 

[scegy]

hey ubet

wow u give them a lot of different stuff, i suggest u look on all the additives bottles and search for an element that is there in big ammounts in all the additives

in future i suggest u don't use so many different things, start with basic nutes and try to use tap water instead off using cal-mag +RO water...then wait, and wait some more
and if your girls try to tell you they need something when they start to flower(which is usually the time of deficiencies) ONLY then add what THEY NEED

it will save you money, time, and give u the chance to get more for what u paid

p.s. glossy leaves are typical for overfertilization, along with burned tips and edges + some other deficiencies are visible, like Cal and Boron(perhaps)....so it's a long shot looking from here and knowing so little what you did during all the stages

but really, be patient and start with basics as far as nutes are concerned. ADD anything else only if needed, that's like an unwritten golden rule to me

germankid gave a good advice aswell

read read

 

[ubet28]

hey ubet

wow u give them a lot of different stuff, i suggest u look on all the additives bottles and search for an element that is there in big ammounts in all the additives

in future i suggest u don't use so many different things, start with basic nutes and try to use tap water instead off using cal-mag +RO water...then wait, and wait some more
and if your girls try to tell you they need something when they start to flower(which is usually the time of deficiencies) ONLY then add what THEY NEED

it will save you money, time, and give u the chance to get more for what u paid

p.s. glossy leaves are typical for overfertilization, along with burned tips and edges + some other deficiencies are visible, like Cal and Boron(perhaps)....so it's a long shot looking from here and knowing so little what you did during all the stages

but really, be patient and start with basics as far as nutes are concerned. ADD anything else only if needed, that's like an unwritten golden rule to me

germankid gave a good advice aswell

read read

Hey thanks to both of you for the help i am gonna do a water change Sunday and i am going to just add final phase for the next week or two. As for the tap water verses R/O i started out that way cause My water is only 200 ppm out of the tap but it has some high levels of something cause it just didn't work out. So i bought the R/O machine and was using 100% R/O and things worked great. Well then i decided iwas gonna try a 50/50 of R/O and tap and i am thinking that's what caused this problem cause i started having the problems again so i am gonna just run R/O.

As for the additives i am done with AN i am switching over to Dutch master gold and zone and a few boosters it will be cheaper and from doing a comparison with the guy at the grow shop the dutch performed better. I am not saying that AN is not a good product its just not for me. I want simplicity and you don't get that from advanced.