Reminds me of spurr, he had strong science based methods.
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Sure fire seed sprouting
- Thread starter Creeperpark
- Start date
Ok for you people just checking in or in a hurry here's the sure fire short version
Use dixie cups with 4 holes in the bottom.
Fill with quality soil mix and weigh the "cup of soil" dry and write the dry weight on the side of the cup. . Don’t pack the soil.
Water it down until a little comes out the bottom then weigh the cup wet and write the wet weight on the cup. Both weights should be on the cup. Plant the seeds.
Maintain the max water weight for the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] 48 hours using a turkey baster by adding water if needed.
After 48 hrs cut the water and put them under fluorescents or LEDs on a 12/12 light cycle sprouts or not. 20/4 hrs in Winter for extra heat.
Leave them alone and when you see sprouts stop giving the plant water and allow the cups to dry to almost the og dry weight and this will allow root growth. Use the water weight to tell when to add water again. So simple and more successful when you weigh the cups.
Use dixie cups with 4 holes in the bottom.
Fill with quality soil mix and weigh the "cup of soil" dry and write the dry weight on the side of the cup. . Don’t pack the soil.
Water it down until a little comes out the bottom then weigh the cup wet and write the wet weight on the cup. Both weights should be on the cup. Plant the seeds.
Maintain the max water weight for the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] 48 hours using a turkey baster by adding water if needed.
After 48 hrs cut the water and put them under fluorescents or LEDs on a 12/12 light cycle sprouts or not. 20/4 hrs in Winter for extra heat.
Leave them alone and when you see sprouts stop giving the plant water and allow the cups to dry to almost the og dry weight and this will allow root growth. Use the water weight to tell when to add water again. So simple and more successful when you weigh the cups.
gizmo666
Active member
I don't work or have any affiliation with any seed company's or test grow for any company's. I don't know any seed breeders or have any association of any kind, with any breeders. I get my seeds the same way most everybody else does (buy them). This thread is based on growing experience from the early 70s till now. Its almost over for me.
i sincerely hope its not nearly over for you
folks can learn a lot from threads like this(including me!)
excellent thread
as you so rightly said seeds aint cheap now
i've always used the tissue method for seeds and to be fair have lost a few
i'm going to use this method on my next grow
got one Q. when topping up water before sprout do you add directly over seed or to the side?
thanks
I try to keep the water off the sprout and only water the potting soil. Using a turkey baster to water seedlings its easy not to overwater. I just give the dixie cups 2 squirts around the sprout with no discharge out the bottom. .
gizmo666
Active member
gotta give kudos to Creeperpark
3 days all seeds sprouted with no issues
no faffing about trying to be careful not to damage the tap roots moving them into pots from tissue
a lot easier and a lot more natural
cheers
3 days all seeds sprouted with no issues
no faffing about trying to be careful not to damage the tap roots moving them into pots from tissue
a lot easier and a lot more natural
cheers
gotta give kudos to Creeperpark
3 days all seeds sprouted with no issues
no faffing about trying to be careful not to damage the tap roots moving them into pots from tissue
a lot easier and a lot more natural
cheers
Super glad to hear Friend.
EastCoastGambit
Well-known member
Thanks Creeper for the knowledge. I just tried this method today. I feel like my soil compacted a bit more than desired with the initial wetting to weight them. Seems like the soil I used was hydroscopic so I really needed to drench it (slowly) to get it to initially hold the water. I also did this and wonder if you do as well? I made sure to put all the pointy ends of the seeds facing down, apparently that is where the tap root emerges so I imagine it gives the sprout a head start with orientation (although I know nature figures out which way is up regardless) Hope to see germination in 3-4 days and lights on after 48 hours per your tutorial. ✌
EDIT: My methods above in red is incorrect. See here: https://thecannabisstraindirectory.com/blog/cannabis-know-how/plant-cannabis-seed-pointy-end-up-or-down/
I carefully excavated what I planted to correct, My first sprout came out with the tap root up when I had them pointy end down. Have to learn from my mistakes.
EDIT: My methods above in red is incorrect. See here: https://thecannabisstraindirectory.com/blog/cannabis-know-how/plant-cannabis-seed-pointy-end-up-or-down/
I carefully excavated what I planted to correct, My first sprout came out with the tap root up when I had them pointy end down. Have to learn from my mistakes.
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Always weigh the cups dry before adding water and write it on the top of the cup. Then saturate the cup with water until it can't hold any more water and weigh it again and write that on the cup. Do that before you plant the seed. Once you know your water weight, water the cup until almost hit the top weight and then allow the cup to almost dry out before watering. After the 1st saturation, there's no need to have any discharge out the bottom. I use a turkey baster to add water while the plants are on the scale and bring up the water weight.
Attachments
Gicoexotic
Member
I will definitely do this process on my next grow.. I'm a mess germinating with the tissue method haha I've always had best results germinating directly in a small pot. And I'm always having issues because idk if I have to water or not... I don't know how didn't I think about writing the weight dry/ wet before... Thanks for the idea!
EastCoastGambit
Well-known member
So that part above from my earlier post (green) is incorrect. I guess I did the exact opposite of what is best practice. It is true that the tap root emerges from the pointy end of the seed, what I didn't realize is that it wants to send the tap root upward and curl down and in the process lifts the seed head out of the soil. So you are supposed to have the pointy end facing up.
See the illustration. From here: https://thecannabisstraindirectory....ow/plant-cannabis-seed-pointy-end-up-or-down/
When seeds hit the ground in nature they hit the way they fall. Laying a seed on its side will allow the radicle to be pulled by gravity downward.
The dynamics of seed are amazing because of the way it's shaped. You can throw seeds on a flat surface and they will always land the same way every time. As an example, take a seed and drop it on the table a few times. You can do it a hundred times and it lands the same, on one side or the other, every time. That's the way I plant seeds, the same way they fall and hit the ground in nature. The amazing part is gravity signals to the tiny seed tail which way is up by pulling the tail downward.
It's time to start Fall plants for Sept and Oct harvest. I have some old Blue Indica seeds I'm going to germinate. These are my old seeds from 10 years ago and not breeder seeds so I will plant more than needed for seed failure and sex ratio imbalance. These plants will go outdoors when they are old enough if all goes well.
Growenhaft
Active member
Schöner Bericht ...
aber ein wichtiger Punkt fehlt ...
Ich nehme an, sie tun es trotzdem ... aber weisen Sie nicht darauf hin.
Wenn Sie Ihr Töpfchen gießen und mit Wasser sättigen, hat das Medium eine Wassersättigung von etwa 130 %. dh 30% mehr als die Erde tatsächlich aufnehmen kann.
wie funktioniert es?
Grund dafür ist die Wassersäule, die sich im Topf bildet. das Wasser steht übereinander und fließt nicht weg, weil die Wassermasse es anzieht. Daher ist es bei Sämlingen wichtig, diese Wassersäule zusammenbrechen zu lassen.
You can dies tun, indem Sie den Topf schräg halten ... dadurch bricht die Wassersäule zusammen ... das überschüssige Wasser läuft ab ... Sie werden schockiert sein, wie viel das ist. this freie raum im medium WIRD DURCH LUFT UND DAMIT sauerstoff für die wurzeln ersetzt.
Wenn das überschüssige Wasser abgelaufen ist, haben Sie Ihr Medium bei einem Gewicht von 100% Wassersättigung!
aber ein wichtiger Punkt fehlt ...
Ich nehme an, sie tun es trotzdem ... aber weisen Sie nicht darauf hin.
Wenn Sie Ihr Töpfchen gießen und mit Wasser sättigen, hat das Medium eine Wassersättigung von etwa 130 %. dh 30% mehr als die Erde tatsächlich aufnehmen kann.
wie funktioniert es?
Grund dafür ist die Wassersäule, die sich im Topf bildet. das Wasser steht übereinander und fließt nicht weg, weil die Wassermasse es anzieht. Daher ist es bei Sämlingen wichtig, diese Wassersäule zusammenbrechen zu lassen.
You can dies tun, indem Sie den Topf schräg halten ... dadurch bricht die Wassersäule zusammen ... das überschüssige Wasser läuft ab ... Sie werden schockiert sein, wie viel das ist. this freie raum im medium WIRD DURCH LUFT UND DAMIT sauerstoff für die wurzeln ersetzt.
Wenn das überschüssige Wasser abgelaufen ist, haben Sie Ihr Medium bei einem Gewicht von 100% Wassersättigung!
Growenhaft
Active member
This phenomenon can be observed with any kind of medium... even if you pour pasta from the pot into the strainer... when it has stopped dripping at the bottom, tilt the strainer... a lot of water will still run out. .. the water column that collapses by tilting.
Yes good thread.
I'm also a believer in no run-off, I mean I don't want to make nutrient "tea" from my soil , and have it run down the drain, or off the roof.
"Water till 20% run off" I've heard people say, surely that was started by the nutrient manufactures, so they could sell you the next bottle sooner.
I have never done your dry / wet weighing thing as I'm "pretty good" at judging that. Like you, (I've also been doing this since the '70s) however I do see it as a very good, and precise way of doing it. And yes I've seen new comers over watering their small stunted plants.
One reason I don't do the weight thing is I always premoisten the soil in a mixing tub, to get it just the right moisture content, before filling the pots.
I'm also a believer in no run-off, I mean I don't want to make nutrient "tea" from my soil , and have it run down the drain, or off the roof.
"Water till 20% run off" I've heard people say, surely that was started by the nutrient manufactures, so they could sell you the next bottle sooner.
I have never done your dry / wet weighing thing as I'm "pretty good" at judging that. Like you, (I've also been doing this since the '70s) however I do see it as a very good, and precise way of doing it. And yes I've seen new comers over watering their small stunted plants.
One reason I don't do the weight thing is I always premoisten the soil in a mixing tub, to get it just the right moisture content, before filling the pots.
