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Super Silver Sour Thai Nevil-Connoisseur Genetics

pipeline

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What is PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density)?​


The third part of the PAR equation is PPFD. This stands for photosynthetic photon flux density and it does more than just measure the PPF, it also measures the surface area. PPFD is measured in micromoles per square metre per second (µMol/m2/S) which establishes exactly how many PAR photons are landing on a specific area. PPFD is all about how many of those essential, photosynthetic photons are actually impacting the grow area and how well those lights are working when it comes to their output.


For the grower, it’s important to make sure that the PPFD data you get from your grow light manufacturer is accurate and covers the entire area of the light. It’s relatively easy to massage this information, so consider factors such as distance from the light source, a number of measurements that account for the average, and the minimum/maximum ratio before you buy. This is another great reason why you should work with a trusted grow light partner who can offer you relevant metrics and the right tools to fully benefit from PAR, PPF, and PPFD.
 

pipeline

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The term “daily light integral” refers to the number of light particles, or photons, received during one day in a particular location and area.

Looks like good numbers. Says you have PPFD good for flowering and DLI for veg but its only 8 hours of light?

Keep em spoiled. Want to see their potential! :smoke:
 

Mudballs2.0

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The term “daily light integral” refers to the number of light particles, or photons, received during one day in a particular location and area.

Looks like good numbers. Says you have PPFD good for flowering and DLI for veg but its only 8 hours of light?

Keep em spoiled. Want to see their potential! :smoke:
The DLI is a 'subjective' metric...meaning "what happens if i leave em out for 8hrs?" You know? Just insight into data you are collecting...parsing data into useable form. That's what im doing there. Im happy if i hold around 40,000 lux. Full sun is too much for them
 

pipeline

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Sounds like good growing conditions. They can get acclimated to full sun over the course of a few days I would think whenever weather allows. Seedlings are probably more resilient to hardening off than clones.
 

Mudballs2.0

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Sounds like good growing conditions. They can get acclimated to full sun over the course of a few days I would think whenever weather allows. Seedlings are probably more resilient to hardening off than clones.
Didnt i see you with a whole patch of plants outback in a forest or something?
 

pipeline

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Yeah, and I don't ever worry about hardening off. Direct sun in the spring doesn't bother them. They trive in it! I start them in April and have them outside on nice days and bring them inside as needed.
 

pipeline

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Its alright, sorry I was just kind of clarifying that for myself. I guess it was good, but I'll let the thread focus on the grow. Thanks for sharing this, brother!
 

Mudballs2.0

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A day before 3 weeks and it's time.
20230124_071737_copy_1512x2016.jpg
First pre-wet some soil for seedlings and then get a pocket formed to accept the transplant..
20230124_072311_copy_1512x2016.jpg
Then i try to get that plant unpotted with minimal damage..nice enough roots at this point, im happy..
20230124_072402_copy_1512x2016.jpg
And then back fill and gently compress sides with fingertips to make sure there are no air pockets at the bottom...that will kill roots and possibly plant..
20230124_072422_copy_1512x2016.jpg
Then rinse ur pots or wipe off..dont be a slob, and ur done..
20230124_075516_copy_1512x2016.jpg ...
I dont always water in...depends on situation. During july out behind the garage after a transplant i will likely do a water-in you know...not today. I pre-wet my transplant soil so the dry negatively charged roots go bonkers with growth if you get it right.

The root surfaces are negatively charged after the dissociation of acidic functional groups (Meychik et al., 2005;Wu and Hendershot, 2009). The negative charge on the root surfaces of different plants varies with plant species

I wont bore you with the details lol...i think too much..im used to living in my head.
 

pipeline

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Thats a good idea to pre-wet and settle in but not to water if the original rootballs are nice and moist anyway. Thats how it is when planting outdoors before a thunderstorm will arrive in a day or 2. Would me maximized oxygen and so long as its all settled in with no large air pockets, the roots would be primed to go. I guess you have to be careful settling it roots tyring to grow in over-saturated and more compacted soil that happens when they're first watered in well.

Thanks for the tip and showing the transplanting details.

Seedlings are looking great, vigorous little seedlings! I would have thought it would be thinner leaved. Leaves change shape as the plant matures.
 

Mudballs2.0

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but not to water if the original rootballs are nice and moist anyway.
No, you purposefully let the pot dry out a bit prior to transplant...the rootball is starving for water at this point.
 

pipeline

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Cool, I see, and they shoot out and find a high porsity moist soil to stretch out in and they maximize root development and start growing better! Never heard of that method! Will be cool to see. Thanks!
 

Mudballs2.0

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Like magnets...the moist soil you just transplanted into has all that water (hydrogen ions) and a huge positive charge and ..
Positively-charged ions are cations; negatively-charged ones are anions. The most common soil cations (including their chemical symbol and charge) are: calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), potassium (K+), ammonium (NH4+), hydrogen (H+) and sodium (Na+). Notice that some cations have more than one positive charge.

pop quiz pipeline...negative charged roots+positive charged soil=you graduated
For extra credit. Determine the diffusion rate of the moisture from the new soil into the dry rootball zone
 
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pipeline

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Interesting, will have to look that up, is this a hypothesis of yours or is there evidence for this phenomenon?

The soil particles are negatively charged and hold the cations in place, or they are exchanged on the soil particles. I can't remember the charge on a root, I guess it must be negative to attract the cations close for uptake. I thought all this worked at the surface level, and I wouldn't think it has a substantial effect on producing an increase in growth.

There would be different charge on wet vs dry soil though. Wet would be more negative charge compared to dry I would think. Not sure.

Did you come up with this hypothesis/method? Thanks for sharing, Mudballs!
 

pipeline

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I don't know, will have to do a side by side comparison with that some time. I would think watering them in right away would provide the water needed for the roots to grow.
 

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