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Strange Slime buildup on roots

Dr. G

Active member
So what if my incomming water is the culprit does physan degrade can i treat my ro water with it and let it degrade i guess i couls steal my salt water fish tanks uv filter for awhile but id rather not lots of salt on that thing im throwing some of my older mothers into flower and getting rid of one of the hydro tables cuz this yeild is going to bankrupt me almost

And the clones dont even have the slime its just in the chiller tubes and the rez
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Use UV or H2O2. H2O2 degrades in 2-3 days. Use Physan20 for cleaning and one day nuking.
 

Dr. G

Active member
ok so i found some local

3 ml per 25 gals even on the rezes and tables?

and whats the dilution to clean equip

the site says different for the plants alittle more then 3 ml per 25



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Orchid Instructions[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]African Violet Instructions[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Algae Control for Walkways [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Fountain, Birdbath, Swimming Pools
and Water Display Instructions
[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Seeds/Cut Flower Instructions[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Potted Plant Instructions[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Hardscape Surface Instructions[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Physan 20 For Use On Orchids [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]WORK AREAS, BENCHES, TRAYS
Spray or swab working surfaces before each work period, and again after each plant is completed to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Crown Rot, Downy Mildew, Root Rot, etc.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]POTS AND FLATS[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
Used pots or flats should be brushed or washed first, then soaked in PHYSAN 20 solution for 10 minutes before using to kill such diseases as Crown Rot, Mildew, Root Rot and Rusts. Do not rinse.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]CUTTING TOOLS[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
Soak cutting edge of tool for 10 minutes in PHYSAN 20 solution before use to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Root Rot, Stem Rot, and Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) Use wet tool on plants. At the end of work, dry and oil tools.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per quart of water.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]SMOKERS[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
Cigarette smokers have tobacco mosaic virus on their hands. Dip hands in solution before handling plants or anything connected with the plants. It is a good idea to have a container of PHYSAN 20 solution always available as a hand dip. Allow to air dry.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar. Soak compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep hands and tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings once per month as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is evident.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ORCHIDS - ADULT PLANTS*
Spray anytime disease other than rot (see below) is evident. Spray once per month as preventative maintenance. Soak compost when fungus is evident.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 2 teaspoons PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ORCHIDS - DIVIDING PLANTS
Remove compost from plant, then soak plant for 2-5 minutes in PHYSAN 20 solution. Operate with wet hands and cutting tools. After division and root trim, soak divisions in PHYSAN 20 solution for 2-5 minutes. Pot in compost dampened with PHYSAN 20 solution.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to a lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces again with PHYSAN 20 solution.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat application if algae growth returns.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ORCHIDS - BOTRYTIS*
During cool damp weather, spray plants, flowers and under benches at first sign of the spotting on flowers. Normally weekly spray will greatly reduce or eliminate the botrytis spotting.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 3 gallons of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
CUT FLOWERS
For containers, tubes and decorative vases. Recommend flower spikes be hardened in PHYSAN 20 treated water during harvesting, storage and shipping.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per 2 gallons of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ORCHID - ROT (such as Erwinia)*
Remove compost from plant, then soak entire plant 10 minutes or more. Cut away all rot with treated tool. Soak plant wounds again for 10 minutes. Repot in PHYSAN 20 soaked compost.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
ORCHIDS - CROWN ROT (Phalaenopsis)*
Spray plants weekly to assure solution getting around and in base of leaves.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]USE: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.

*
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Physan 20 has Federal EPA approval for these specific applications on orchids in 49 states. In California only, these applications with asterisks are under review and pending CAL-EPA approval.

[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]RECIRCULATING OVERHEAD WATERING SYSTEMS
During the last 2-3 minutes of watering, use PHYSAN 20 solution as a preventative program. Due to variations in growing conditions, use PHYSAN 20 every second to fourth watering. Will control algae in nozzles.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]USE: 1 ounce PHYSAN to 20 gallons of water.[/FONT]

 

Dr. G

Active member
hey so its been 18 hrs in the cloner and theres still alittle slime on the uncut clones

is it suposed to come off or can it be dead and still attached?
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Is it a coating of slime like mucous or just mushy slimy feeling cuts or clones. Clean it off. If they are mushy get rid of them.
 

Dr. G

Active member
Is it a coating of slime like mucous or just mushy slimy feeling cuts or clones. Clean it off. If they are mushy get rid of them.


no the cuts are firm its the greyish slime stuff on the cuts them selfs same stuff thats in the rez in certain areas too i cant see intot he water anymore tho so i dunno if its still in there


also my stuff didnt foam up as hard as your guys pics it did foam but not a lot

the hydroton im soaking did foam an alright amount but not the rezes too much


my one table has gotten 24 hrs of floods (4) and the rez is being drained and in a few hrs ill manually flood the table with ro water and a bit of cal mg since the ph was at 5.3 for a few days and they have slight cal def going on

the other tables ill prolly wait for them to flood again tongiht since they were the ones that actually are looking bad



now when i clean my rez with this stuff how hard is it to rinse it all out since my rezs are 150 gals and i no drain in the current area i guess i can put a hose thought my basement window and take the rez to the furnace room which had a drain in the floor

after a few good floods of ro water how long should i wait to introduce the aqua shield i dont wanna kill off the good guys
 

Ipsissimus

Member
Dr. G - I've had the slime, and let me tell you, it is a bitch!

It doesn't kill the roots directly, but it keeps them from intaking oxygen which starves them causing them to turn brown.

What is only temporarily slowed down by h2o2, grows without light, and loves nutes & aeration? It also LOVES distilled and reverse osmosis water?

fungus. In fact, if you let the slime build up it will spore up in blue green dusty splotches eventually.

when I had this problem I eventually tracked it down, type of slime mold. it can proliferate from your pipes. once established though, I found chlorinated city water slowed growth down. This is no surprised, because high chlorine levels kill mold and fungus.

As extreme as this sounds, I had my best results using a highly diluted bleach solution (1 drop a gallon iirc). Maintain this for a few days to punch it in the nose.

I've found once I've had the problem in my current place, DWC becomes too problematic in general.
 

spreadhead

Member
i grow under a 150hps in a cabinet. i have been growing dreamgoddess for several yeas taking a clone of a clone. when cloning back in the last month of 08 i could not get anything rooted. at this same time i lost 3 out of 4 flowering attempts due to a root problem. i had 4 plants survive grown together in a 4 gallon cat litter container with 4 airstones in a dwc. these plants made it a provided me a great harvest in march 09. i revegged the plants and lost one in the process. i just started flowering the three and looking at the roots, the new growth are at the bottom and their are a lot of dead roots in between. i ordered hygrozyme to help break down old root mass. my h2o temps can creep to 80 but i keep frozen water bottles in the container to control temps.

i am reading that hygrozyme can promote the slime attack...the one that i am trying to prevent by using hygrozyme. these are very special plants that i do nnot want to loose. i am doubting even now adding this.
any recommendations. like as a 24 hr flush.

lastly, i have been adding EA and EN and i think i have had remarkable resuls with fighting off the slime.

any recommendations?
 

Dr. G

Active member
ya im about to switch back to soil
which i really really really dont want to do

im doing ebb and flow hydroton right now

i have one table thats looking great had some cloudy water do i hit em with the physan toDAY THey are on a flush for tomorow

but all the rest really got hit with bad root rot too

got teh aqua shield today flushing out the cloner as we speak

this has almost bankrupt me since i spend a ton of money to build a new set up right b4 this

i lost 3 full tables of sog under 7kw :mad: but it was pretty much from teh root rot mainly i think i got the slime from useing hygrozyme to battle the rot

trashed one table and put in my mothers into flower today cuz i took new moms a few weeks ago

i have one table that isnt destroyed but if i posted a pic youd cry the buds are still fantastic lol guess chem4 is a real winner nomatter what goes wrong

also for everyone to know chem4 is a really good root rot resistant strain everything else died but it


cleaned one rez today and is filling with water as we speak

hopefully everythng gets back on track
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Dr. G, flush with RO from the top. You don't need to fill the rez and do flood and drains. Spray everything in the tray, on the tray, in pots, etc. and then drain the rez. Then give the rez a rinse and another drain. Add benes right-a-way and use the EWC tea, ALSO!

To the other recent posters. Your answers are within the last few pages.
 

Dr. G

Active member
ya i cant make water that fast so they are going to get a few ro water flood and drains '


il be adding the bbs asap tho


the big bitch is i cant dump too much of this physan down the drain i have a septic system



so any ol ewc is good?
 

Ipsissimus

Member
the stuff lives on organic matter (dead roots and nutes) - it can't get a foot hold if you have zero root root, from the start. when restarting, make sure you eliminate the cause of the initial root rot. And f*ck it, do a couple soil tables as insurance until you're comfortable enough with the system and can afford to experiment.

last bit - once you get the slime, forget about beneficials - you can grow awesome hydro in a completely sterile root environment. #1 priority is killing off the slime, and keeping it from coming back.
 

spreadhead

Member
i have read through much if not all of this thread...i have searched the internet and i have filtered richy rich's posts. there seems to be different out comes with different folks..several of the posts here lead me to believe that hygrozyme can be the root cause of this slime.
i had 4 plants in a 4 gallon container. the plants are about a year old. 1 plant died... its roots are mixed in with the healthy roots and there is a big root ball that looks like they are dead with the new roots growing at the bottom of the container..plants super healthy and i am using EA and EN which feeds the mycorrhizae and beneficial bacteria.
looking for direction if i should use hygrozyme
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
ya i cant make water that fast so they are going to get a few ro water flood and drains '


il be adding the bbs asap tho


the big bitch is i cant dump too much of this physan down the drain i have a septic system



so any ol ewc is good?

Any EWCs. Just make sure they are not real old.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
the stuff lives on organic matter (dead roots and nutes) - it can't get a foot hold if you have zero root root, from the start. when restarting, make sure you eliminate the cause of the initial root rot. And f*ck it, do a couple soil tables as insurance until you're comfortable enough with the system and can afford to experiment.

last bit - once you get the slime, forget about beneficials - you can grow awesome hydro in a completely sterile root environment. #1 priority is killing off the slime, and keeping it from coming back.

Slime has survived through H202 everyday, SM-90 and etc.. The only thing that suppresses it is Dutch Master Zone. Or you can try UV as I have just done.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
i have read through much if not all of this thread...i have searched the internet and i have filtered richy rich's posts. there seems to be different out comes with different folks..several of the posts here lead me to believe that hygrozyme can be the root cause of this slime.
i had 4 plants in a 4 gallon container. the plants are about a year old. 1 plant died... its roots are mixed in with the healthy roots and there is a big root ball that looks like they are dead with the new roots growing at the bottom of the container..plants super healthy and i am using EA and EN which feeds the mycorrhizae and beneficial bacteria.
looking for direction if i should use hygrozyme

I'm assuming your 4 gallon containers may be filled with hydroton. You say you have a lot of roots that look dead. If so, you have root rot, also. Not sure if you said you have the slime. Yes, any zyme is jet fuel for the slime. In your case though, you have no choice. You need to start using a zyme to break down the dead roots. From experience, zymes will not get rid of all the dead roots and the problem will persist. Incorporate a regiment of Zone and [H2O2 everyday]. Forget the benes at this time because they will never overcome the amount of rot you have. I would advise a good H2O2 bath of your roots and removal of all dead matter. I don't know if your setup allows for that. If you can get rid of all the dead roots mass then go back to benes. Oh, and nuke everything with Physan20 if you go that way.
 
Some of the confusion about UVs being used w/ koi etc. could use a little more explanation. In water gardening/ koi raising, they don't care about killing all the algae. What they are trying to do is CLARIFY --- that is knock out enough to see their fish. UVs are rated by clarifying and STERILIZING ratings. ie the 8 watt Aqua UV that i use will clarify up to 2000 gallons, but will sterilize only 1/10 of that or 200 gallons. There is usually a listing for max flow to achieve the rating. Don't think any of us would go over that flow rate anyway.

Saw some nice units at Lowes in the outdoor/pond section. Very reasonable too. UVs separate or combined w/ a pump. Plus replacement bulbs (which should be replaced yearly on about all units, if you are running them continually)

Hope this helps -------- CB

so you have been running these for a while with great success? my friend just bought one after i told him about it and i helped him set it up.. seems like a legit unit.

definetly gonna pick one up whe nig et home
 

Dr. G

Active member
Hey so the lady at the physan company said that you can use ot continusly at half teaspoon per 50-70 gals


It also breaks down and is inactive in 5-7 days


I think im going to go this route with the bad table with root rot
 

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